With Eco off my sport has a nice bog/hesitation when accelerating. Doesn't matter if ac is on or not. I'm also using shell from the same station I've always used for years. The 2.0 is still pretty new. My cruze turbo had the same kind of issue and turned out to be the spark plug gap was too small from the factory.
View 1 RepliesI bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
I have owned this car from new and it currently has 32k miles. The only fuel used has been 85 octane or occasionally a tank of 93 octane. There is a distinct hesitation when accelerating from speeds of 10 to 15 mph and I do not believe it is due to the transmission shifting. I did move to my current state,California, from Pennsylvania and was told by my local Hyundai dealer service department that because California has a different gasoline formulation from most other states as well as a summer and winter blend to reduce emissions it is recommended to run a bottle of injector cleaner every 15k miles.
View 1 Replies2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
Picked up the car 5 days ago but noticed when I press the clutch and rev the engine, there's a throttle delay/hesitation and a simultaneous sound like "psshht". The sound is almost like when you're shifting a turbo car with a blow off valve.
Other than that the car is great. 2012 Elantra GL manual ...
My 2012 Elantra has been nothing but problems. Unfortunately, with me being away from home in the USA, I haven't been able to bring it to my dealership. Lately, I've noticed that the acceleration of my E sounds different with the A/C on. It's more noticeable right when I hit the throttle that the engine engages, and power goes to the wheel. The sound is a deep more drone like sound, and is only there when my A/C is on.
View 8 RepliesMy 2012 Elantra has 16k+ mi. on it and recently I've noticed a noise while accelerating. It typically occurs when first accelerating between 1st and 3rd. The sound itself is hard to describe as I am not a professional so it's hard to find the right words to give an accurate description. It sounds like something rubbing together or perhaps something loose. Any insight into possible causes for strange noises while accelerating on a car this young? It doesn't happen every time, typically when first beginning the drive and occasionally when beginning from a dead stop at a light.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 RepliesCurrently have 85k miles. About 20k miles ago I noticed when I have the driver window down I would hear a rattle coming from under the car when accelerating. Doesn't happen every time but does quite often. Usually goes away almost immediately. I'm not having any other issues and with my warranty out I'm not anxious for a drip to the dealer.
View 3 RepliesWhile driving, the TCS light will flash and the car stops accelerating. Dry pavement, no bumps. I have to pull over to the side of the road, and shut the car off and restart, or wait a few minutes for it to stop having a fit.
I really don't feel save driving this car due to this issue. Is there a specific sensor that can be changed out or is this tied into the ABS and possibly individual wheel sensors.
About a month and a half ago my Elantra while accelerating starting to make a fast ticking noise that was noticeable from usual with the radio and Air off but not terribly loud. The car still seemed to run the same.
So I took the car into the Dealer for my usual oil change and the recall for the automatic transmission and had them check it out. I was expecting nothing major. Turns out the service manager said a control armed failed as well as a piston and the damage was done. The will have to replace the entire top half of the engine at least and check the lower parts while taking it a part. They let me drive off and said to bring it back on Tuesday. Said he will drive to the rental car place and set me up in a rental while they fix it. Estimated to take 4-5 days while further checking into it.
It was noted as a "knock" in the upper part of the engine on the form I was handed after the car was checked out. They also said they would not bother doing an oil change on the car because of this issue. The car has a little over 27K miles on it.
My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
I have a 2010 F150 Xlt super crew with a 4.6L. I've noticed lately when I start from a full stop the the truck has a small shutter or hesitation before it starts accelerating. Its barely noticable but it is there. What it could be? I had the tourque converter replaced just before my warranty was up, I've only put 30000 Km on it since. Was wondering if it could be the cause.
View 3 RepliesTook car in for normal service (69,000 miles) and had Tranny Fluid Service completed. When I took the car home I noticed some slight tranny slipping while accelerating up to highway speeds (so assuming 4th to 5th gear, maybe 5th to 6th). Took it back to the dealer and after a week it had a new transmission. Took it home and it slipped again, also only accelerating to highway speeds. Took it back and they told me they reset the computer that monitors my driving patterns. OK, not exactly sure what that means. So, now driving to work this morning it slipped (or maybe hesitated is a better word) again when accelerating from about 55 mph to 60 or so. Car has never had issues like this before, gas mileage is still in the 30 mpg range.
View 9 RepliesSo as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
I've had 2013 Elantra for a month. Love it, but a week ago, the driver's seat started squeaking when stopping, accelerating, and going around curves. Crazy making! I took the car in today. Svc mgr said its a weight issue. The two driver/owners weigh 150 and 160 lbs! Exactly, he said. Apparently, we do not weigh enough to prevent squeak. The only fix would be to replace the seat and there's no guarantee it would work. Also must be approved by regional svc mgr so have to go back in a.m. Told them similar issues posted online (Genesis and Sonata) and was easily resolved lubricant issue. They could at least try what appears to work. No going.
Have other Elantra owners experienced this squeaking? If Hyundai knows this is a recurring issue with their products, at what point do they make engineering changes to resolve the issue? Don't want to, but I am rapidly losing my love for the car as it sounds like a cheap tin can when it squeaks.
My Elantra is at 14k miles and it has happened twice now that the pipe has released white/grayish smoke when accelerating abruptly (pretty much forcing the engine) on the highway above 60mph. I can see in my mirror that it leaves a pretty big smoke screen behind me.
I took it for an inspection after the first time it happened and the mechanic said it might have just been steam and that I should not worry about it. Since my 15k maintenance check is coming up, I will ask that they actually check on it.
I'm also curious to know if this could cause me to get a ticket? I'm thinking I could get pulled over for "imparing the vision of drivers behind me and making it dangerous for them", or something like that.
I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
My car has developed some intermittent noise but I can't pinpoint the exact source, though it seems to be coming from the front. I hear it in 1st gear when accelerating, and it's more audible if I have my windows down. A faint metallic grinding/friction/rotating noise is how I think I could most accurately describe it. I do have an oil change coming up in the next few weeks and will mention it then.
View 2 RepliesI just noticed today that the top part of one of the LED strips on my 2014 Elantra was out. I don't even know how to change the bulbs for these or if it's even possible. The car only has 22k miles on it so it's kind of concerning that an OEM led would burn out this fast. Should I take it to the dealer and ask them to replace it or is this something I can do myself? Am I SOL?
View 5 RepliesThis car is an Australian 2014 Elantra SE
The existing manuals do not work, they show a knob previous to this one and don't apply.
Hyundai Elantra: Console. Repair procedures - Interior - Body (Interior and Exterior) - Hyundai Elantra MD 2010-2016 Service manual
Shows an earlier one and I can't find any other info.