Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Can't See Speedometer From Driving Position
Apr 26, 2013
Am I the only one that has a hard time seeing the speedometer when driving? I have always driven leaning slightly to the right with the steering wheel down and my arm rested on the armrest and using my left hand to steer. This is the first car that have driven where its hard to see your speed when the steering wheel is lowered down. I am thinking about getting some sort of OBD display such as the super gauge.
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I'm having my 3rd problem with my "certified pre-owned" car since I bought it last year. It is a 2011 PZEV (according to the dealership it is PZEV but I don't see any indication of that anywhere?) with about 64k on it. It had 44k when I bought it last year.
Within the first couple of months that I bought it, I was driving on the highway and all the needles on my dashboard stopped working. I got really scared and pulled over. A lot of emergency lights came on as well. Within a few minutes, they came back on. I took it to a dealership about 4 hours from where I bought it as I was out of town and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Since then, I've had it happen about 3-4 times. It happened last night while I had a car full of people. I pulled off of the highway again and went into a parking lot. My gear wouldn't shift out of Drive or Neutral. I put it in neutral and put the E brake on. I was in a parking spot in front of a curb so I couldn't drive forward. I've read about this problem on the forum a bit, but I haven't seen it combined with the dashboard issue. Some of the E lights that came on: check engine, brakes, eps, the one that looks like a windy road.
After about twenty minutes of wondering what to do, turning the car on and off, and trying to get the shift release to work, the dashboard finally started working (the needles for the speed and RPM) and I was able to get the car going.
The car is at a Hyundai repair shop now and they called me a couple hours ago asking for more details as they can't replicate the problem.
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I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
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I've owned a 2014 Prius Four (not IV, Roman numerals were for model year 2010) w/o Nav for just about a year now. I've encounter this mysterious condition three times now where when I turn on my car, all I see on the front displays are the READY light on the far left and the mini-display that shows the shift pattern.
* Both the speedometer/fuel gauge display on the left of the shift pattern display and the "Hybrid status" display on the right of the shift postion display are OFF.
* The car operates normally (it's not in a limp-home mode).
When I first encountered this issue and reported it to my local dealer, they suggested I take a video of it with my smartphone. I did so the car (and a copy of the video) is now at the dealership.
The second and third times this issue came up, I took videos and did some additional testing.
- When these two displays are OFF, there is no backlight to the climate control LED display underneath the stereo...
- I normally drive the car with the headlamps in "AUTO" mode. When you shift the headlamp switch to "DRL off", the two missing displays automatically power on. In any other position (Auto, corner marker lamps only, or headlamps ON position) the two displays in question turn off.
- The issue isn't with me accidentally turning the dimmer switch too low. When the dimmer switch is set to max low and the dash light sensor is covered (emulating complete darkness outside), all three displays on the dash (including the shift position display) are barely visible/look off. As the service advisor saw in my video, that's not the case.
This is clearly a safety issue ("you cannot tell how fast you are going" and "you cannot tell easily how much gas you have left without going through the infotainment display) so for now the dealership at least seems to be on my side in that something needs to be repaired. The good news is that now that the issue has been documented in my service history, they did comment that it will get fixed eventually even if the issue comes back after test. For now, the dealership is stumped so they asked Toyota for guidance on what parts to try replacing.
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New owner of 2014-RX350. I have figured out most stuff simply using the owners manual (go figure), but this one continues to stump me, as I have repeated the procedure right out of the owners manual without success.
Manual states to have only one fob or card present, car in park, "ignition on" position (I interpret this as two pushes to the ignition switch), push desired memory button and hold while pushing either lock or unlock button till chime sounds. I get the chime. But when I lock the door, wait a minute, and unlock the door by touching the handle, the car unlocks just fine, but seat does nothing. When I manually push L2 (in my case), the seat does indeed move into position. But I cannot for the life of me get this function to work.
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My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
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I am 1/2 way thru a 2 hour trip driving on interstate 75 in Florida doing about 75mph when all of the sudden I couldn't steer, had no dash lights with the exception of the radio plus the bluetooth still worked and braking was very difficult. I couldn't accelerate, nothing happened when I pushed the gas pedal. Neither turn signal worked but the emergency flashers did. Managed to get it on side of highway but then it got interesting; couldn't shift out of drive and couldn't turn the car off; I could turn the key but nothing happened. After sitting on the side of the road with my foot on the brake pedal for 30 minutes I tried turning the car off again and it magically worked. I sat there for about 10 minutes and thought I would turn the car on and see what happened; turned the key and it fired up like normal and everything was working just fine.
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If I turn off my AC while driving but leave the fans running, I get a distinct sour/stale smell from the vents.
This also occurs when I turn on the AC. What might be causing this?
Is there a pan or something that needs to be cleaned? There is a fresh Cabin filter installed.
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I was driving today and decided to test something that another elantra owner brought to my attention.
Doors are locked, I'm driving down the street and I pulled the handle to open my door. They open... As I'm driving... And I did not physically unlock my doors before pulling the handle.
I had my passenger try the back doors but they remained locked.
Is this usual for Hyundai or is there an extremely poor design flaw and safety hazard!
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I have a rattle in the dash up in the middle of the dash kind of in between the two sides of the car and between the window and front so basically right in the middle of the dash, if I slap it with my hand I can make the same sort of rattle so something is loose, bad thing is I dropped by dealership and it didn't do it when I was in the car driving with the service guy but I slapped on the dash and you could here a something loose sound rattle same kind I hear when driving. He said that is normal for things to make noise in there when you tap the dash. About a week ago I had the dirty sock smell coming from my vents so I took out the Cabin Filter and sprayed Lysol in the intake the put a new filter in. This is about the same time the rattle started. I wonder if the Lysol might have made something come loose in the vent system.
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I have 2011 Elantra and been loving the car, getting great mileage. Recently I started hearing this ticking randomly while driving. Sometime during reverse, at random stopping. It is a single tick and it goes away.
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Compared to my last car, the ticking noise you normally hear from the exhaust after you shut the car is louder in my elantra. But that doesnt bother me. However, i can hear that same exhaust noise while im driving. Its coming from underneath the middle of the car not the engine. My old car did not make that noise while driving, just after i shut the car off.
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I did not find a solution to my 2011 Elantra GLS's windshield fogging up when it is raining. Other vehicles I owned would clear the foggy windscreen by simply turning the fan on the windshield setting. No A/C necessary.
However, when the Elantra fogs up while driving in the rain, it requires that I put the A/C on (not in recirc mode) to clear the glass. After it clears, I shut-off the A/C to conserve fuel, but after 30 secs or so, it begins to fog up again.
There is no apparent water in the car, or wet floormats, so I'm wondering what could cause this?
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So I just got my new 2015 Elantra SE - and of course, noticing every detail that is different. I feel as if it is 'skidding' when driving on uneven surfaces - and I don't mean off road, just regular I-95 and major roads with humps and bumps in the very old and used roads.
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I've been having this funky smell from vents lately. It doesn't exactly smell foul or corpse-like, but rather more of an old unwashed sock....
The smell seems to come out after a bit of driving with the AC off. When I turn it on, it goes away after a little while.
This has been happening everyday, and I'm thinking that it's condensation, or maybe I just need to change my filter... Is there a way to get rid of this smell without changing anything?
I've read that I can spray Lysol at the bottom of the dash board (where the driver's and passengers feet are) with the AC on at the coldest setting with the recirculate button on. Doing that will flush out the vents and kill whatever is in there.
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I just purchased a Hyundai Elantra Limited edition car and I am hearing a noise while I am driving. I'll do my best to describe it but it is a difficult noise to decipher. I can hear the noise anytime I am driving but it is more difficult at lower speeds but the noise does increase at lower speeds when I am slowing down. But the noise persists whether or not I am pressing on the brakes so I don't think it is brake related. The noise only happens while the vehicle is in motion. It almost sound like the cross between a rubbing and grinding noise but it also has a internal encased sound. The sound is low pitched and the speed of the sound doesn't change with the speed of the vehicle. I first suspected the brakes because I heard a squealer going off. When I took it in for repair, one of the rear calipers was stuck and so I got both calipers replaced. They said the front brakes looked fine. After doing that repair, the squealer noise is obviously gone since the brakes were repaired but the other noise persists. I would suspect a wheel bearing if the owner hadn't told me it was just replaced. Plus I would have thought that the will bearing noise would change along with the speed of the car.
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First time Hyundai owner. Just bought a new Elantra 2013 for my soon to be 16 year old daughter. We picked up the car from the dealer last Sunday and the car has about 40 miles on the odometer. Tonight my daughter and I we took it out for a drive and I was driving at a speed of 30 mph and the car suddenly went dead, no power , no lights, simply nothing just complete darkness. I called Hyundai roadside assistance and they towed the car to the dealer. The tow truck driver tried to see if it was battery related and he brought a portable battery and hooked it up to the car's battery but that did nothing to power up or restart the car. This was very scary as it was like an invisible hand just pulled the plug off and switched off the car. I am very worried now as this car is for my daughter and I would hate to think what could happen driving alone or on busy roads, or at night. What could it be?
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Started having a key issue: while in the car, intermittently, get a "key out" error with accompanying long beep as if you walked away with car running. This happened while driving. Changed the battery (key fob-keyless limited elantra 2011) but still did it. Not all the time, unpredictable. Got 90k miles, and not a covered entity per dealer...yes, not a power train component.
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I have a couple of questions. Been driving for about 4 weeks now. Just took it to Hagerstown, MD yesterday and noticed something odd when driving up the mountains. (We have lots of mountains to travel up and down out here in western MD) When I would get to 3k RPMs, I would notice something strange, kind of like a pulling or tugging. (Think of it like a circle with a line somewhere no hit. Every time you hit that line, there is a little vibration or tug, kind of like if you have a rock or something stuck in your tire and you hear a noise every time you hit that spot on the tire against the road).
However, it only occurred when going up the mountain at 3k RPMs. If it kicked up to 4k RPMs, it didn't happen. It I was below 3k RPMs, it didn't happen. Is it normal? Is it related to the Active ECO system? I didn't try running it uphill without cruise control on. Could it be because I had cruise control in use? Just wondering if this is normal. I was reading the manual and it did state that you would notice a difference when Active Eco was engaged when going uphill as the engine would be a little less powerful or less quick to gain power. Also, what is "sport mode"? The plus and minus signs to the right of D on the gear shift?
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So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS Sedan, 6 speed manual with 65,000 miles. I recently bought a new set of wheels for my car brand new. I had tires mounted and balanced. I brought them home and installed them on my car myself and had no problems, this was about 3 thousand miles ago (1 month). 2 days ago I went down for my first oil change and tire rotation since getting the new wheels. The technician who I trusted suggested I balance the two rear wheels when bringing them to the front, so I went ahead and let them do that.
When I left the shop I noticed the front left wheel had a "thumping" sound when driving, as if there was a large nail hitting the ground every time the wheel went around. You can feel this in the floor. I just went back today to the shop to have them look at it and they too can feel it when driving. They put my car on the lift and while in gear they said they noticed the left front CV joint turning but it was not straight. It wobbled a bit. They showed me the play in it when pushing it up and down and said that it was not normal.
They were not trying to get me to replace them, the mechanics actually suggested I went to the Hyundai dealer to have it looked at. I'm replacing my front brakes tonight and I will be rotating that tire to the rear again to see what happens. I'm just curious as whether the play we noticed in the CV joint is normal, if they could have screwed up the tire balance somehow (which they did not recheck) or if the CV wobble could possibly be normal. I'll be switching that tire to the back and if the vibration is in the rear it will be going back down to Monro muffler and brake. If the problem remains in the front I will be visiting the Hyundai dealer.
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