Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Shift Lever Unable To Move From P And D Position
Jun 12, 2013
I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
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I have a 2012 Elantra Limited with about 36000 Miles. I purchased this car used with 12000 miles. I commute to work about 90 miles round trip a day mostly highway. I usually average about 33 or 34mpg. Recently, my mileage has fallen to 22 or 23 mpg and I have noticed my car having problems shifting. When accelerating normally, 1st - 3rd shift normally. Once I get into 4th, the car won't shift into 5th unless I manually do it with the gear lever or play with the throttle. If I just accelerate it will go all the way up to over 6000 rpm before it will shift. There are no problems with down shifting. Once it gets into 5th it will shift into 6th normally. There are not warning lights on and it doesn't always do it so of course when I need to recreate it I can't.
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I am Having a problem on my 2005 Phaeton which has a 3.2 engine. Last time I drove it was yesterday and had no problems. This morning, I'd turn the key and it give me various error message."Move selector lever to position P/N" ...
I tried to move it but with no luck , the message is still there and I also noticed that the light on the shift that indicates that I need to press on the break to start is not glowing. This is not the 1st time I had this error but before I had to leave it for a while and it will start ...
I really love my Phaeton and it has only 75,774 kilometres on , so it is quite new ...
You can see the error message and the light indication below in the pictures ....
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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Today when I head home I was getting the message "Move Selector Lever to Position P." It would come and go. No other lights or warning what so ever were lit. What this message was for and why it was displaying??
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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What are the positives/negatives to driving in the "S" position on the shift lever? What situations to do so/not do so?
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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I recently bought my first EX and I finally had enough of looking at this
The transmission shift lever indicator not being in the proper position needed to be fixed!
After some searching, I realized what the issue was and was quite surprised that the "fix" is replacing the entire shift lever indicator assembly. Seems overkill but right on par of with the way the world works nowadays.
The other solution I found was by a company called Dorman. They make a Shift Indicator Cable Bracket, which is the only part that was damaged in my case as you can see here. The white part pointed at by the arrow is supposed to be attached to the rest of the white plastic.
I looked around the garage thinking I need some glue. And something to reinforce the freshly glued parts. That should have been much more difficult as I don't regularly fix tiny plastic parts BUT I quickly came across this old external hard drive cover.
Broke some tabs off, trimmed them to size and poured glue all over the place.
This is what I ended up with.
Now my OCD can focus on something else
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I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
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This issue with my 2003 Mazda Protege 5, manual transmission, has been going on for years. I'd like to sell the car, so I'd like to fix it.
On occasion I am unable to shift into first gear from a stopped position. This never happens in the late fall, winter, or early spring - it all seems to depend on how warm it is outside. It is always fine at the start of the trip, but becomes a problem in what seems like a period of time proportional to how warm it is outside. Again, when its cool outside, it pretty much doesn't happen. But once we pass 25C / 77F it is common, and will almost certainly happen on any trip of over a 10 minutes. The hotter the weather, the faster it shows up as a problem.
If I leave the car and come back after it cools down, first gear works fine again. And I can downshift into first gear as I come to a stop with no issues - I just hate riding the clutch like that, so I've been starting in second gear instead.
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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When I look under the hood of the Elantra and then try to close it, it seems to not want to close. I usually have to lift the hood up and let it fall which kind of worries me will break something...
or I have to put what seems to be a lot of pressure on the hood with my arms and hands to close it...to the point where I feel the metal of the hood bend slightly inwards and then pop out to its regular shape.
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Went to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I cannot get the key to lower or raise the windows, or close the sun roof. The manual says I can do both. I can do it in my Passat. Is this a Vag-Com thing my dealer can fix?
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Can't start my Tiguan this morning. Getting the message "Move lever to P/N". The lever IS in park - moving to neutral doesn't work either.
Last night the girlfriend turned off the car while it was still in gear (she's used to manual). I've done that before though and never had any issues. You can't actually remove the key until it's in park anyway.
However now the computer seems to be stuck on the idea that the vehicle is still in gear. Not sure what to do. Guess I'm going to just keep trying it through out the day and hope it ends up correcting itself. I'll just work from home today/tomorrow. But I'm eventually going to have to get it towed to the VW dealership.
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I had my power steering motor and ignition replaced according to the Saturn recall 2 months ago. Went out yesterday and the PWR STR warning light was on, unable to move steering wheel. Turned the car off and waited a few minutes and turned the car back on and the power steering was fine. Since I just had the motor replaced do you think it is just a fuse? Or should I call the dealer?
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Am I the only one that has a hard time seeing the speedometer when driving? I have always driven leaning slightly to the right with the steering wheel down and my arm rested on the armrest and using my left hand to steer. This is the first car that have driven where its hard to see your speed when the steering wheel is lowered down. I am thinking about getting some sort of OBD display such as the super gauge.
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Today after running several errands, I stopped by the local CarWash to rinse the car. Same as always, parking brake off, shift into neutral and away we go. Half way threw she starts beeping, I see the yellow triangle and to the right a boxed message "LOW TRACTION BATTERY SHIFT INTO P POSITION". There was a sudden rush of anxiety because I could not shift while being conveyor-ed threw the wash. As soon as I was pushed out and the light turned green, I shifted into drive to exit. The warning and box cleared instantly.
I pulled into parking, shifted into P, and noticed the battery indicator had only 1 bar. Did a quick walk around of the car and got back on the road thinking, head directly the Dealership. Before I got to the freeway I was back up 4 bars and climbing. Continued on the freeway and within 2 exits all looked normal. As it is Saturday and the Dealership was 1 hour from closing, I proceeded home. Later we went to dinner and an event, then came home. All is still normal. Owners Manual only states to follow the command on page 515.
I know this is a long story and was intentional to starve off multiple questions. The only thing I can think is that the air conditioner, radio and headlights were on prior to, while waiting my turn for wash (park-roll-park-roll...) and up to the point of the warning (tuned off all at that point) while in the tunnel. However this is normal for me. Will monitor the battery indicator more closely for a while. I'm sure this event latched in a computer somewhere, so will run by the Dealer if anything else acts up again. A/C and radio and lights are turned off now while in "neutral", for whatever reason. The car is a 2010 II and only 27600 miles. Was not a pleasant feeling.
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My car was running fine. I drove it 2-3 miles city & freeway a week ago to make sure. I was going to lend it to a friend and handed him the keys at a different location. When I got home he showed me that he was unable to move the car out of Park. I got in and the motor started fine. I checked and the battery was showing at the normal level,but I too could not budge the car out of Park. That was a few days ago.
Today I went out to start the car up and to my surprise, the battery is completely drained. The battery is only about 17 months old. I previously had had the motor rebuilt a couple of years ago and the car hasn't been driven but 2-3 thousand miles since.
What the problem may be? What kind of mechanic should look at it? (the friend admitted to pushing buttons but since I wasn't there I don't know if that was before he tried to move out of Park or after).
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