I replaced the drivers side CV axle due to the fact my wife and I both heard the famous clicking sound when turning left, I inspected the CV axle and it looked to be in good shape, no tears or rips but I replaced it anyways and now I am hearing and feeling a knocking sound (seems to be coming from the inner shaft, but not positive) when I am driving. It is also vibrating the steering wheel.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 Elantra GL. These past couple weeks I have noticed the following:
1) After a long drive, there is a sort of "knocking" sound at the back of my car. It's not too loud but still noticeable. It seems to go back and forth from left to right to left to right, etc.
2) The sound ONLY appears at low speed (under 30km/hr or 20mph) AND when the ride gets a little bumpy (i.e. when I drive over the bump to get into my driveway). It doesn't take a big bump, just a little.
3) The sound ONLY appear after a long drive. When I start driving to work starting on my local roads at low speed over some bumps, there is no sound. But once I reach my work parking lot and I'm driving slowly and there's some minor bumps, I hear the sound. After work when I'm in the same parking lot going at the same low speed over the same bumps, there is no sound. Once I reach home and driving slowly over local road and over driveway bump, the sound appears.
The car is only at 5000km right now. I haven't gotten an oil change yet or any servicing on the car whatsoever. I will be bringing my car into the dealer for it's first oil change in a couple weeks and will ask them about the sound there. To summarize, the sound only appears once I've driven it for awhile (it never happens at start of drive) and if it's going low speed and if it gets slightly bumpy.
I have a 2013 Elantra, owned since new... I recently started hearing a knocking sound coming from both front wheels while turning in reverse. I have yet to take my car in to have it looked at, if I can do it myself I will but I'm not sure where to start.
View 3 RepliesI know all Hyundai's 1.8L Nu engines have that quiet ticking noise. But is there a slight knocking sound on the left side of the engine (around the belt area)? Could this be just the timing chain noise? It does this on idle but when on a constant speed/rpm, the engine is quiet.
View 10 RepliesI am noticing a sort of clunk or knocking noise from under the hood when I hit the brakes. I thought it might be the pads, but it comes from under the hood .It only makes the sound on the first touch of the brake, once you have your foot on the pedal it stops the noise. It does this every time on the first application of the pedal. Is this sound normal? I don't recall hearing it when I test drove the car, maybe it's been there all along and I am just now making note of it.
View 5 Replies1998 Honda Civic EX, automatic transmission, 145K miles. Purchased three weeks ago.
Newly purchased used car has a knock emanating from the left front axle area. It's a rotational thumping/knocking sound that occurs about every 360 degrees of the tire rotation and only in forward and backward full-lock left turns. The car also has a small vibration/wobble in the left front. It's been narrowed down to the CV half axle outer bearing. What is puzzling is left front knocking from the outer CV joint is usually associated with full-lock right turns (and vice-versa) However, the left front knocking/thumping only happens as stated above (full-lock left turns).
Recent front end parts replaced:
1) Left front hub assembly and bearing
2) Inner and outer tie rods on both left and right sides
3) Front left caliper
4) New front brake pads on both left and right sides
5) Automatic transmission 3 x 3 drain and fill + Lubegard red
My 2000 Jetta GLS is producing a clunking/knocking sound from the front end (possibly left-front) ONLY while coasting and going straight. It mostly goes away if I turn left or right and totally goes away when I give the wheels engine power or when I brake.
I recently replaced my front-left control arm due to a thrashed rear bushing. I didn't replace the bearing as I didn't have a pickle fork. Not sure if this is related.
I've only owned my neon for 3 weeks. I have a loud knocking/clunking noise and it feels like the rear is trying to freeze up in reverse it knocks/clunks louder when i brake in reverse. Sometimes it will knock/clunk and feel like something is trying freeze up in normal forward driving (maybe one of twice every few days) but it happens every single time i reverse.
We have already replaced the rear struts as we thought this was the problem.
I'm getting frustrated I need a good car to drive my child to school and I afraid to drive this one but I don't have much of a choice. It has had a lot of recent work by the previous owner (my brother-in-law) including a new clutch, exhaust, tie rods, new brakes all around and brand new tires so i'd like to fix it because it's in great shape and runs well for it age.
Another piece of information that may be relevant is the car sat for roughly a year and half with no use but was regularly started although I don't think they moved it. I'm wondering if it could have something to do with the brakes?
The problem starting roughly 3 days after I bought the car I don't drive much but would like to fix this so we can take it on longer trips as it's the only vehicle we own that fits everyone in it. Our secondary is a 2 seater Toyota pickup for my husband to commute to work in and there's 3 of us so the car being in the condition it's in doesn't work for us.
I need to remove the cv axle from the hub so I can replace the washer (I have the clicking noise). Its a 2013 Elantra. Wondering the steps so I don't remove anything I don't need to. Also I am guessing the washer goes on the inside of the bearing as opposed to between the bearing and nut?
View 8 RepliesHave a slight clunking sound in the front of elantra, only noticed it yesterday and is only there at start offs and is there in forward and reverse motions. May be more of a click like sound at times as well.
View 22 RepliesI have a 2016. I'm waiting on some aftermarket headlights and they will look great with LED drl/high beam. Have you installed them in this location ? I'm worried about fitment with the led being too big to fit in there.
View 23 RepliesLast week I replaced my stock 2016 Elantra's brake pad's with Wagner Thermoquiet another forum user recommended, came with new hardware (seats), however not new 'plates' (that are on the side of the pads), so I had to reuse the old ones which were quite dirty/ old looking. Anyway, I understand due to the old rotors being on there, I'm going to hear some unusual noise when letting off the brakes until broken in, however, squealing when I press the brakes? (Only happens at low speeds, like drive through window.) I greased all the metal components that make contact with the caliper. I NEVER experienced squealing with the old pads, & these are "supposed to be quiet & more efficient". I'm going to take the wheels off & look at them tomorrow. What I can do?
View 15 RepliesI have had some clunking in the front end for a couple months now. It is intermittent and seems to show up mostly in cold weather at startup. It is still there in warmer weather, but it is much harder to replicate and occurs less. Sometimes it also sounds like the dash is rattling. I have felt around on the dash while the noise is present, and nothing appears to be vibrating. Once the car warms up, issues seem to go away. I have taken it to the dealership which cannot find a problem, and I have not been able to replicate the issue for them. Sway bar links have been replaced due to being worn out, but did not fix the above issue.
View 11 Replies My concern is I have some intermittent clicking/clunking noise. What causes it is if I start out whether fwd or rev. Or if I am going slow in 1st gear and I let off the gas to slow down or press the gas to speed up (btw 1000rpms and 2000rpms) I was told this noise is the clutch engaging or disengaging, which doesn't make sense because when it happens the clutch is fully engaged.
I have had this noise before 2X and there were things that were loose, which were tightened up and the noise went away. This time local dealer told me sound is normal and to keep an eye on it. To me it doesn't sound right cause its noises I didn't notice before.
For the last few weeks (about a month) I have been experiencing a clunking noise/ knock on acceleration coming from either in front of my feet or below my feet (drivers side) ONLY on acceleration and only then from a full stop. I can also feel the clunk as well which leads me to believe it is a transmission mount.....maybe an engine mount. I am taking her to the dealer after work today. we had some very cold weather and I was hoping it was just ice but yesterday and today were well above zero and it is still there and it is EVERY time I accelerate. Which is a somewhat good thing since I will be able to replicate the problem for Hyundai.....
View 17 RepliesI have been frustrated with my Elantra's handling from the time I purchased. I feel that the car is setup poorly and has design/OEM part issues.
I have improved the rear-end "hop" issue by replacing the OEM rear shocks with the KYB Gas-A-Just's -- a big improvement in handling the bumps. But the rear-end solid axle on such a light car is just crap...
I have developed quite a bit of 'clunking' noise in the front suspension.
I am considering replacing the front-end shock-strut assemblies with KYBs -- I'd love to hear if it made a big difference. Also wondering if I should change-out the 'sway bar link' while replacing the shock/struts.
I'm just so frustrated with the way this car handles (I've driven Subaru's, Honda's, and VW's) compared to other cars. I feel it's a combination of low-quality OEM suspension parts, rear solid axle, light weight, crappy electric steering settings, and tires that are too wide and too low-profile for such a light car. (I have the limited with 17 wheels).
Driving 2012 Elantra with 29K on the Meter in AZ with temps at 105 degrees. I am getting a clicking clunking noise. Dealership said Strut mounts and replaced them. Drove it off the lot and the noise was still there. Wont go back to that dealership. Creaking clunking noise more frequently now and has shifted from the passenger side to the driver side predominantly. End links? Axles? Brake assembly, Hub? I first heard it when I went over a speed bump at 3-5 mph. Now it can be heard upon acceleration-deceleration, deceleration in neutral with brake only gets the loudest clunk on the Driver side. Ultimately its now constant on turns, bumps, rough roads & even smooth roads while changing lanes. What is causing this.
View 5 RepliesHave had some issues with some intermittent clunking when I shift or let off the gas. It only clunks when shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 or when I am btw 1500-2500 rpms and let off the gas to coast a bit. There are times when it won't clunk at all or it does it all the time, I can shift fast or slow doesn't matter. The dealership I bought the car from couldn't find anything wrong on my last service. Also when I put the clutch in sometimes I hear a bit of a clunk as well. Also I notice moving the shifter from gear to gear when shifting feels very notchy, but most of the times its smooth.
View 8 RepliesMy engine keeps knocking for a minute or so after I come to a stop and turn off ignition. Should I be concerned?
View 14 RepliesMy car has 63 000 km and engine is making loud knocking noise all the time. Dealer took a quick look and he asked head office. Now he wants to run some tests to see which valve is bad. He's hesitating between repairing or replacing the engine. I'm really disappointed of Hyundai quality. I really hope that I get new engine instead of poor repair job.
View 17 Replies2012 elantra ltd.
Today noticed a knockng sound louder than the usual engine knock. It only occurs when we put car in reverse. Checked it with the brakes applied so as to eliminate it coming from any source due to the car moving ie axle/drive connections etc. Putting it in D with brakes on, not moving and it goes away. Put it back in reverse and it recurs.
Tried it even after the engine had warmed to temp guage showing half way. Let car sit for a bit (so engine was still warm) and it repeated. Drove for a few minutes and it would not occur. Shut car off for 1 hour, on restart the engine temp was showing it was still warm and the knock would recur in R.