Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 GT - Vacuum Leak At Fuel Injector
May 13, 2013
I have an '02 Elantra GT with ~175,000 miles.
CEL is on, gives code about evaporative emissions control system, P0441. Shop manual says a)Purge control solenoid valve or b) vacuum leak.
Symptoms are very rough idle, strong smell of gas at startup, erratic, racing idle when starting or cruising to a stop in neutral.
Replaced PCSV, didn't WORK. Went looking for vacuum leak. Seems to be at the fuel injector that's on the end, passenger side, on the manifold side. There's a noticeable hiss, and when I spray gumout at the injector it changes idle. Replaced the injector O-rings. Didn't make a difference. What next?
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I was just curious is there a fuel line replacement that's pre-molded? Or do I need to get a roll of a certain diameter line and mold it my self? It's leaking right under the drivers door and it used to be pretty small but has gotten bigger. I can take a picture of the location if needed?
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I came out of my house this morning and noticed a large wet spot under the back of my car. Upon investigation it appears to be a fuel leak from a black vented box that is immediately behind the driver side rear tire and connected directly beside the gas tank. there are 2 hoses that appear to be fuel hoses going into the forward end of this box.
I disconnected two mounting nuts and looked inside but it is an enclosed box mounted inside the casing. I can't find any info on the net or any illustrated parts lists. What this box is and why it might be leaking fuel? The box is rather large maybe 12 to 14 inches long by 8 to 10 inches wide by at least 6 inches deep.
I did fill up my tank last night and I "topped" it off to round the price. My car also parks on a fairly decent slope in my driveway rear end first.
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I have a fuel elk coming from the fuel rail on top of an orange; what I can only assume is an injector? Fuel races out of it and puddles beneath the truck. I hate driving it cause now everything stinks like gas. I've tried pushing on it with no luck. How hard would it be to fix this issue? I'm mechanically inclined but feel this may be beyond my skills.
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I own a 2002 Elantra GT that's had a decent repair record but just yesterday developed a leak that is almost exactly 18" toward center from the outside of the right front tire and 5" to the rear of the center of the tire (18" in, 5" back from rf tire). It doesn't seem to be a small leak and unfortunately I don't know what the fluid is. I've never changed the oil myself and have never seen the undercarriage. The measurements were made by marking the the concrete by the front tire then measuring in to the deposit.
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Wife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
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My car does not start (cranks only) after I clean the fuel injector and intake manifold.
so I check the spark with tester and it is fine.then I check the fuel pressure with tester and the pressure shoots to over 42 psi without starting (normal between 38 and 46 psi) and slowly drops to 10 psi. I install fuel injector (FI) with new o-ring and gasket and there is no leakage aroung them. the fuel pressure regulator is ok. I got one from junk yard and the test show the same.
I notice there is some gas inside TB and only way to leak the gas is the FI body valve. I took all FI out and notice #2 and #3 are wet on the FI nozzle tip and use small string to push air through and can see some fluid coming out from the nozzle tip.
I thought I clean it well and do not know if this can be fixed by more cleaning. the resistance is all the same at 12.6 ohms under room temp at night in north CA.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
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I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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Ever since I got my car about 5/6 months ago I noticed it's not getting full boost. when I first got it the stock boost was getting about 5-7 I don't know if that's normal I've read they normally get more. eventually I got my car tuned and it's supposed to peak at 22 psi but it only got to about 13-14 psi. slowly it's been getting worse and my car is getting 2 psi. I've had lots of people tell me it's a vacuum leak. also the bov makes a flutter noise if that has anything to do with it. my intake doesn't make a sucking in noise like most do. The car has been randomly backfiring usually between gears. I just ordered a turbo inlet pipe a breather hose kit and a boost hose kit.
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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cant figur this out have no signal to injectors and no power at fuel pump 88 f150 5-0
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I have a 94 F250 5.8 liter with 96K miles. Can I remove the fuel rail and clean or replace the filter that is placed at the top of the fuel injector?
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I have a leak from the engine area (Pic attached. The part is just behind the radiator). I see the leak when the car is parked and cold. When I check that leak after I drive for few minutes, the fluid is evaporated from the engine. Is this the coolant? The temperature is ok. I added some coolant in the reservoir since the level was below the min level. Can this be an oil leak? I can't get a good read on what the fluid is.
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I purchased a used 2005 Elantra two weeks ago. In the last two days, it began spraying oil at high RPMs. The oil pools on top of the transaxle (driver-side engine compartment), and down the front of the engine onto the exhaust manifold, giving burning smell and smoke. Trying to find where it was coming from, I cleaned everything thoroughly, but I can't locate the leak/spray. If I drive under 3500 RPM, no oil sprays or accumulates. Over that, it does. Oil filter was tight (first thing I checked), can't find any obviously loose fittings or bolts. Where this may be coming from, or should I just bite the bullet and go to the dealer for diagnosis?
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Check light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
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