Ford - E150 :: Check Engine Light Keeps Coming On - Vacuum Leak / Fuel Pump
Feb 28, 2012
I recently had a Jasper rebuilt engine installed in my Ford E150. Since than my check engine light keeps coming on and the computer is saying my cas air mix is "lean". The instaler says i need a new fuel pump.Another mechanic says it is more likely a vacuum problem.I know it's possible that the fuel pump is bad bur since this has just started since the install, I don't believe it can be the fuel pump unless it's just one hell of a coincidence.
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I have a 2000 B5 . It has minor damage front and rear (cosmetic only). Also, the check engine light stays on due to a vacuum leak somewhere between the MAF and the intake manifold. It would need a full paint job at some point after the body work was completed.
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So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
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2002 F250 SD 4X4 5.4L. 4.5 inch pro comp lift tire size 305/75/R16. K&N cold air set up. 208,000kms
I know the truck does horrible on gas but lately is been getting worse, maybe I am getting 350km to a tank. Mixed highway city driving. Sounds like I might have a vacuum leak somewhere but I have no engine light. I've had the truck since last year and put about 10,000km. on it done regular oil changes .. brake maintenance no motor work so far.
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I have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
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Sometimes the check engine light comes on and truck will not start,the fuel pump runs non-stop.. when check engine light goes off,the fuel pump runs for a few seconds and stops,truck will start.... driving down the road check engine light will come on and truck runs bad....
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Just bought my volvo several days ago. It was throwing check engine codes so I had it scanned and it came down to a vacuum leak. I found the spot where it was leaking which was a little piece to the left and slightly behind the exhaust manifold, slightly behind and beneath the thermostat housing. It went from a hard plastic vacuum line, to a 1.5 inch rubber vacuum line which plugged into a nipple on the exhaust manifold or something behind the manifold. the rubber section had 3 large holes in it, so i replaced it with more rubber vacuum line. same length and same inner diameter.
What I did notice when I replaced it was that it was too large for the plastic line, slid on way too easy, but i had to fight it onto the nipple. The check engine codes went away for 2 days(I drove about 150 miles over that time) but today, the check engine light came back on, went to auto zone, had them scan it, came back with vacuum leak. So when I got home, I popped the hood, sprayed some carb cleaner by the replacement vacuum job I did, and sure enough the idle changed. What the proper replacement hose is for that area?
[URL] ....
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Well I had the dreaded loss of power and EPC/Check Engine light happen on Monday. Was driving down the Interstate and all of sudden we just lost power. It did not go completely dead, but it ran like crap. Called the local VW and they advised to bring it in, still under warranty (27k, 26mths) and it turned out to be the high pressure fuel pump. They replaced the pump and the replacement was bad! Luckily they tested it before they got it out the door back to me. Provided me with a loaner and the dealer had to get a replacement pump overnight. Picked up the car yesterday and everything drives the way it should again.
I had already had the software update, but according to the service advisor that was for the fuel pump in the tank, not the one on the engine. Not sure if that is correct, but that is what the advisor told me..
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I just replaced fuel pump and tps on my 1989 Dodge Dakota 4 cyl truck. Now it idles rough and the check engine light came on. I have removed battery cable to reset computer but did no good. What could be the problem now? I have since replaced the plug wires and distrib cap and it is flashing 3 5 5 twice now?
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Went in due to the check engine light coming on and found out I had a oil leak in both oil cooler lines they wanted to charge me 350 per line and 200 for labor which brings the total to 900. Are they over charging me if not is there a cheaper fix for them? 2007 impala 3900 v6....
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Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
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I got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
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Ok, I know I have a vaccum leak. I have manual hubs now and those lines are capped. The AC is blowing through the deforst and the pump is running non stop. I have replaced the vac pump a couple of years ago and it worked fine then. any other places to look?
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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I was using the method of spraying starter fluid around the intake and found a pretty significant vacuum leak around the throttle shaft on the drivers side. The carb is a 2 barrel holley. What are some different ways to seal a throttle shaft vacuum leak? Could I take it apart and seal it with a plastic O-ring for now?
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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Today, my 1995 E150 suddenly started acting like it was running out of fuel Lucky for me, this happened close to both a parts store and my usual mechanic's shop. Unluckily for me, it happened on Saturday, and my shop can't get to it until Thursday. So here I am, hoping to do a fix in the meantime.
At first, it seemed that it must have been the fuel pump, because I couldn't hear it come on when I turned on the ignition. Then, a guy who said he was a mechanic told me he could hear the pump cycling, and that my problem was the fuel pressure regulator. So he managed to start the vehicle after a few tries, then it crapped out again. He did this twice. Then he went away.
I called every parts store in town, and none of them had a fuel pressure regulator for my vehicle, and the earliest any of them could get one was Monday. But I knew I was due for a fuel filter, and I'd changed filters on this vehicle before, so I got one of those and put it in. To my delight, the van started right up and idled beautifully. In fact, it ran beautifully for about 15 minutes, until I came to a slight rise, then it crapped out again. It still started up and idled smoothly, and even revved up smoothly, until it reached a high idle speed, at which point it crapped out. I did manage to limp into the parking lot of my shop - which, again, can't get to it until Thursday.
So my question is: does this sound like a fuel pressure regulator to you? If so, is that a job which somebody with a reasonable mechanical aptitude (i.e., at least good enough to change the fuel filter) should be able to feel safe doing? If the answer to those two is "yes" (or even if it's "no")....
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I have a '98 Ford F-150 XLT, 2WD, Short bed, Ext. cab, 4.6L, automatic trans. with 65,000 orig. miles. I bought this truck new. When I have the A/C or heater or just outside air coming in through the dash or floor vents, the air will switch to coming out of the defrosters when I accelerate and then the air will return to it's normal position when I let up on the gas. Is this caused by a bad vacuum check valve and if so where is it located and what does it look like??
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I have an '02 Elantra GT with ~175,000 miles.
CEL is on, gives code about evaporative emissions control system, P0441. Shop manual says a)Purge control solenoid valve or b) vacuum leak.
Symptoms are very rough idle, strong smell of gas at startup, erratic, racing idle when starting or cruising to a stop in neutral.
Replaced PCSV, didn't WORK. Went looking for vacuum leak. Seems to be at the fuel injector that's on the end, passenger side, on the manifold side. There's a noticeable hiss, and when I spray gumout at the injector it changes idle. Replaced the injector O-rings. Didn't make a difference. What next?
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
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I was letting my truck idle to work on a cooling issue when I noticed oil coming from my fuel pump! What would cause this? It wasn't coming from were the pump bolts to the timing cover it was coming out of the side of the pump it looked like? I'm going to get a new one.
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