My car (200,000kms - 5spd). Just noticed today that the gauge is not moving at all. Heat comes out of the dash vents no problem. Could it be the thermostat? Or is it the gauge it's self?
View 2 RepliesThe needle is moving up and then back down. This mostly happens while at a stop and simultaneously the ac compressor kicks off.
Recently new radiator and temp gauge, plus coolant flush.
Last week I noticed an erratic temperature gauge while I was in stop-and-go traffic. It would go from just below halfway to nearly the red in about 7 seconds, bob around, go down a bit, then up, back down to halfway and sit for a while, etc. etc. etc. I stopped, added a little water to the reservoir and car was fine for about 20 minutes but then it started up again.
Went I got home I checked oil and it was low. I added a quart. After this the car has been fine.
Until today. It did go into the red a couple of times and sat there for a few seconds. I was surprised there were no lights or warnings of overheating! I opened the hood when I got home and didn't get the impression that the engine was particularly hot (though the upper radiator hose was hot).
I read this might be caused by air pockets in the cooling system and I need to "burp" it by taking off the radiator cap, starting the car, running the heater, and then topping up the radiator when I see the coolant level go down.
Since I bought the car I noticed my temperature gauge has never even touched the middle mark on the instrument panel. Is this normal or is my thermostat hung open?
View 4 RepliesAfter car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
View 2 RepliesMy car recently turned over 120,000 miles. I have owned her for 5 years. Currently, the engine temperature gauge needle is moving all over the place. It typically registers the correct temperature (I think), but sometimes it goes all the way over to the red, then peaks and falls back down to the midline.
Before this started happening, the needle would lie just below the midline when traveling on the highway and just above the midline when driving in town. Yesterday, it was lying between the 1/4 mark and the midline -- much lower than normal. Is this as simple as just replacing the temperature sensor?
My mechanic noticed a month ago that the transmission hoses are all swollen and in need of replacement. Is this related?One more thing, within the last week, the electrical system fails while driving, but just for a second. I can tell because the radio goes out. Once, it went completely dead, then came back on within 2 seconds. It made me think of the alternator, but it seems if that were the case it would go dead and not come back on, no?
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent. The temperature gauge in the car moves toward the "danger zone" only under both the following conditions:
1) Car is at IDLE after being driven for a while (15-20 minutes). 2) Headlights are ON (I've sat in the car and watched the temperature gauge move up and then back down as I turn on and thrn turn off the headlights).
*What I've also noticed is that the temperature gauge starts moving up as the radiator fans kick ON.
I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra. In Nov. 2010 had inspection done and replaced upper radiator hose at that time. Right after that, I had no heat and the temperature gauge would go up to hot but then come right back down. Brought it back to mechanic, changed thermostat and both things ok only part way home. Started riding with coworker only driving to her house 7 miles away and still temperature gauge up and down, stopped driving completely in Feb. Just brought it to dealer who replaced thermostat and worked fine all the way home and then started all over again the next day. Seems to happen faster at higher speed but will eventually do it in any driving conditions. Today service engine soon light came on. Obviously not thermostat problem. Could it be water pump? Dealer did pressure test and that came back fine so no head gasket problem although don't have a lot of faith in that since problem still exists and they thought thermostat would fix it.
View 19 RepliesI have a terrible car. Honda Civic 2002 that runs alright but quakes and shudders after I start it. It also revs up for no reason at all whilst I drive around. Anyway two machanics have told me I have a headgasket leak that will cost a lot of money to fix. Two others have told me I don't or that it is so minor it needs not be messed with. The last one I saw decided I had a bad Coolant Sensor for the Computer.
I guess there is one for the computer and one, um, not for the computer. I bought both sensors and he changed them Friday. Today I took the car out and three times while I was out, my temp gauge shot up into the red hovered for a few minutes and sank back down. It has never done this before. Why this might be happening now? I am really sick of taking my car in and getting a thousand different stories, paying to fix things that are not wrong with it and watching it die a slow death.
I had to have my transmission replaced after i lent my car to my dad who then hit a massive pothole and destroyed my transmission along with tire and rim. Got my car back and while driving home, I noticed my temperature gauge didn't move. Got home, parked the car and let it run and no movement from the gauge at all. Unfortunately, I retrieved my car shortly before the shop closed so I can't call them until tomorrow but what this could possibly be?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2002 Honda Civic EX with about 105,000 glorious miles on it. I decided to hit the road and made a weekend road trip to pick up a stranded family member. I live in Ohio and drove Lou Dobbs, my car, to Florida. It was about 950 miles one way. All was well until I got to Florida. I hit my first traffic jam and was sitting with the windows down enjoying the Florida air. Suddenly, the temperature gauge started to climb! It got pretty close to the red but traffic began to flow at that point. As soon as I reached 40-50MPH the temp began to fall again. I picked up my cargo and headed back. Each time I would hit traffic or a red light the temp would climb without hesitation. This is without the A/C running. After I got back to Ohio, i asked a friend who knows about cars. Over the phone, he had me remove the radiator cap and reservoir cap to take a look at the fluid levels. After this though, the car has never overheated! I don't understand. Can air get into the system and I let it out by removing the caps? I can sit in rush hour traffic for a half an hour with the AC running and the needle stays right in the middle. Should I still take it in to be looked at?
View 2 RepliesOne day, I was on the highway and my Pontiac's speed started dropping. I looked at the temperature gauge, and the temperature was really high. I flushed the coolant system, and changed the gasket. Also the mechanic said that the oil might be leaking after they changed the oil. I paid like $700 for something that has nothing to do with the problem (I paid for a spark plug, ignition wires, fuel filter, and an oxygen sensor). After they changed the oil, oil started leaking all over my driveway, which didn't happen before. It also looked like coolant was leaking out. None of this happened before I got my oil changed with these guys.
After I changed the gasket, the car was running smoothly. But today, the same thing happened again, and I don't know if it's the thermostat, or water pump, or oil leaking, or coolant. The mechanic always suggests to fix something that doesn't have to do with the problem. I don't have much money on hand, so I need to only fix what has to do with the temperature rising, and I need my car to run.
Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
I have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
2002 ford sport trac.I have been having an ongoing issue that started with the engine cranking but would not turn over until an hour passed. After replacing multiple parts (cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, ignition pack) I am now down to poor fuel economy as the last of the issues (roughly 12 in the city and 15 highway). I was told the issue may be the engine coolant temperature sensor going bad so I decided to replace it. I found this was very difficult due to it being a plug and locking pin design and in a very tight spot in the engine.
I tried to purchase a replacement and the parts store kept trying to insist on selling me a part with threading. I finally found someone that figured out the issue and found the part for the 2001 sport trac had the same plug style with clip that did fit but was shaped a little different on the sensor end which I assume was due to being aftermarket. I noticed that there were two plugs side by side and the one easiest to access was on the left and I was told the one on the right was the sensor that gave the temperature reading to the gauge.
After installing the engine coolant temperature sensor I found the temperature gauge on the dash now will not respond and is sitting below the cold end of the gauge completely off. Is it possible this is because the part was for a 2001? Is the sensor on the left (passenger side) the engine coolant sensor?I would hate to put the old sensor back in just to test if that's the issue due how difficult it was to put that locking pin back on. What to check that could resolve the gauge issue before pulling this sensor back out?
is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
View 1 RepliesI recently started having an issue where when I shift from 1 to 2 I'll get a quick grind of the gears. Here are the circumstances:
- the clutch is completely depressed, just the act of moving the shifter from 1 to 2 causes the grind.
- only when the car is moving.
- one time I was driving and coasting for a while just shifting back and forth from 1 to 2 with the clutch fully depressed and it kept happening.
- if I shift really slowly I can usually prevent it from happening, though I don't think it's RPM related.
2003 Hyundai Elantra, 1975cc engine, XD. P0198 Error Code.
I know this is the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High code and I have seen indications this may mean high voltage on this sensor. My problem is I cannot locate this sensor on the engine. From what I have read this sensor is supposed to be on the driver's side of the engine on the head, rear side.
On my engine the head was replaced (unknown to me when I recently purchased the vehicle). From all indications this is not a CVVT engine. The air intake has a MAP sensor that is connected and appears to be functioning properly. The driver's side of the engine does have two coils but I can see no other wires from the wiring harness toward the rear of the head other than leads to the starter.
The cam sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, rear side. I have found the oil pressure sensor and crankshaft sensor on the front side of the engine block toward the driver's side. I have found and engine temperature sensor on the driver,s side of the engine on a housing connected to a radiator hose.
Oddly enough there was an OCV hanging on the harness toward the front driver's side of the wiring harness. Adjacent to this plug is a second plug on a shorter lead that is not connected to anything. Both of these plugs have two leads but are shaped differently oval for the OCV and the other is rectangular. I am wondering if this rectangular plug is for the engine oil temperature sensor? What I cannot see is where the temperature sensor would screw into the head on the front driver's side (near this plug).
I went to NAPA today and they do not have an engine oil temperature sensor listed, but I was able to find one on line. I cannot find a connection point on the head that looks like the picture of the sensor on-line.
About 4500 miles ago, I had the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and all the accessory belts replaced and now, the water temp gauge sometimes rises rapidly from "normal" all the way to the "red" and back within about 15 seconds! This is on a 2006 Elantra GT
Should I replace the "coolant temp sensor" or do I have a real problem that needs repair?
Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
View 14 RepliesI replaced my battery. Once I connected my new battery, my fuel and temperature gauge started working strangely. They would either be high, then go low, then go back high. My interior lights, clock, and radio stopped working. Could it be a relay? I checked all the fuses with a test light and they all looked good.
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