The A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 elantra shuts off while driving, while making a machine gun noise. If I try to start it, it will continue making the noise. I wait a few minutes after clicking and whirring robot noises stop and then it starts again. I've tried the cam position sensor, that worked for a few weeks but it's doing it again. Luckily it seems to only happen at slow speeds, before I pull into traffic.
View 5 RepliesI got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
I have a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4 L Trition it shuts off while driving the steering wheel locks up when the truck shuts off I tried everything and it doesn't seem to help the problem. I changed the Iacv idle air control valve,I had a bad o2 sensor changed that, changed the crank sensor, cleaned the throttle body and changed the Tps sensor, got a new battery, changed the vacuum lines.i really don't know what else to do this truck is becoming a nightmare and is dangerous to drive I never know when it's going to shut off and when it does shut off sometimes it starts right up and other times it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesI have a 03 Matrix and my AC compressor does not stay on long enough to cool the car. In cool weather (less than 80 degrees), on the highway, the AC works well enough if I have it on high. When the weather heats up or when the car is sitting still, the AC doesn't work at all. Today, it was in the 90s and I got an occasional cool breeze from it, when the car was moving.
When observing the pump, I see it kick on briefly then quickly turn off. It's off much more than on, when the car is sitting still. The coolant pressure is charged and I tried swapping the relay. For a time, it was making some noise. I would kind of make a rapid dove sound when running and a fart sound when shutting off. I didn't notice that happening today though.
My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
View 5 Replies2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
View 3 RepliesMy dad bought this car some time ago and it didn't have those parts (AC belt pulley, belt and High line cap, that sky-blue thing) but we didn't care, looks like the previous owner didn't use the AC system that much. Well, I had some time to put things to work, so I put the AC belt pulley, bought the belt (4PK810), found the cap and guess what, the AC works just fine!
But... there's this noise coming from the compressor ONLY when the AC is off. When I turn the AC on, that "thing" on the compressor starts to rotate and the noise disappears, and it comes back when it stops.
The compressor's clutch is at fault here? I've read a bit about it and maybe is that thing.
Or maybe the compressor just needs some maintenance after not being used for so long... What do you think?
The compressor is a HCC HS-15, like THIS ONE. The model is different, mine being CD1AA-03 and that one AKTCC-04.
3.5L v6 173k. Engine shut down twice while driving. Started right up each time. From what I have seen in the forum it could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If it is the CPS, should I have the timing belt done at the same time?
View 4 RepliesWhen driving down the road, usually at speeds greater than 55 mph and usually in hotter weather, the vehicle will just shut off. Temp gauge stays firmly in the normal range, coolant level is fine. The vehicle will eventually restart after 5-20 minutes before repeating it's little 'siesta mode'.(It turns over, just won't start) I've been all over the internet and can find dozens upon dozens of identical problems in 1998-2002 Bravada, BUT NEVER A SOLUTION! There are suggestions from wiring shorts to fuel pump to the temperature sensor to PCM - but nobody has the courtesy to get back online and post if they ever found what the actual problem was. I can only surmise that either people just don't feel like posting the solution, or they are still trying to figure it out (which doesn't bode well for me).
View 3 RepliesI am currently having an issue with my 2003 Yukon XL. Randomly, but mostly associated with hot outside air temps or while pulling our camper the truck will just shut off. Almost like we turned off the ignition. We don't get any sputtering or misfiring, nor does the CE light come on. After about 3-5 min we can start the truck up and keep on going. On the hot days it may do it a few more times but on others it wont do it again for weeks. I recently had it looked at and the mechanic thought it was a fuel pump. But after finding out the cost of the repair I did some investigating and found other people have had this problem. They to were told it was a fuel pump. However after it was replaced they still have had the problem.
View 9 RepliesMy Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesSo, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
Having problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
My dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
View 6 RepliesThis started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
I have a 97 Mazda and I notice that the air compressor never shuts off unless I turn the A/C off. I have checked the relay and it is fine. What other control is keeping the compressor clutch from releasing?
View 3 RepliesI just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
View 2 RepliesRecently I began hearing noise such as a rattle on the right front of the vehicle. It is a 2003 SF 2.7L front wheel drive with almost 180k mi. At first I thought the noise was from the Serp belt tensioner. Now I believe it originates from the compressor clutch.
Does the a/c clutch have a history with its bearings ? Is the clutch replaceable on the compressor or is this a single unit replacement ?