Toyota - Matrix :: 2003 - AC Compressor Shuts Off Too Much
Sep 3, 2015
I have a 03 Matrix and my AC compressor does not stay on long enough to cool the car. In cool weather (less than 80 degrees), on the highway, the AC works well enough if I have it on high. When the weather heats up or when the car is sitting still, the AC doesn't work at all. Today, it was in the 90s and I got an occasional cool breeze from it, when the car was moving.
When observing the pump, I see it kick on briefly then quickly turn off. It's off much more than on, when the car is sitting still. The coolant pressure is charged and I tried swapping the relay. For a time, it was making some noise. I would kind of make a rapid dove sound when running and a fart sound when shutting off. I didn't notice that happening today though.
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The A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
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I have a 97 Mazda and I notice that the air compressor never shuts off unless I turn the A/C off. I have checked the relay and it is fine. What other control is keeping the compressor clutch from releasing?
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I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
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I got a 99 jeep sport straight 6. AC works fine after topping off. Pressure 32 l/s 210 h/s could still be a little low but air is very cold. Problem is while drive compressor shuts off. I thought it may have been too low causing it to kick off. while in park & holding rpm's at 2k everything seem to be ok.
It cycled on/off at times as normal but then compressor stopped & didn't come on again. shut the engine off checked the fuses restarted & the air is back running like normal?? so whats going on do I have a bad l/pressure switch or may be a relay sticking??while at 2k rpm's l/side 25 h/side 250 then at idle 32 & 210. I don't think its low enough to cause the shut off but.....
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Bought this car new and really haven't had any major issues until the last month. It's a 2003, six-speed, inline 4, 1.8L engine. When I came to a stop, the engine just died and would not restart until I let it "rest" for a couple of minutes. It restarted and ran fine. This same thing happened again a week or so later.
Then, just yesterday, I was doing about 65 on the interstate and the engine died, tach dropped to 0, but I didn't lose power steering or brakes. I was coasting for a few seconds and the engine came back. When I slowed down to pull into a parking garage, it died but I was coasting enough to pop the clutch and it restarted for a moment allowing me to almost get into a parking stall. As I slowed to get into the stall it died completely and had to be pushed into the stall.
I left it there for a few hours. When I got back, it started and ran fine. I feel this is just the beginning of some problem with the electronic control module/unit.
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I took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
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Came out this morning and after letting the car warm up, went to shift into gear and was unable to get car to go from neutral to any of the gears. If I turn the car off, shift into any gear, and then turn the car on - then I can drive in the gear that I am currently in. As soon as I shift from any gear back into neutral, it will not let me shift into another gear while the motor is running. I have looked at some troubleshooting and even called a local mechanic who was baffled by the problem. I don't' know if it is the synchonizers, clutch control cable, or the clutch itself...
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My 2003 Toyota Matrix xrs blew spark plug, totaled engine. My husband had trouble with it stalling, the next day I drove it about 60 miles. I did have some trouble with it stalling but on the way home it got worse and was glad to make it back.
Took it in and they said pieces of the spark plug got in on top of the piston and got so hot it cut into the piston and won't hold compression. Hence totaled engine. The shop is willing to take car in payment of work done.
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On cold mornings when I start my car the engine revs sporadically. It will initially stay at about 1200 rpm for a couple seconds, but then the rpms slowly increase or surge until cut off about 2400 rpm and the process starts again until the car is warm. The colder it gets the worse it is, usually 50 degrees or less it's noticeable. It has done this since I have owned it with 40,000 miles (now has 117,000).
I did find this TSB EG022-07 but it is for a manual transmission, but describes my symptoms (mine is AT). Also, I believe the ECU was replaced with the catalytic converter on another TSB at 78,000 miles in 2009, which is 2 years after the TSB. Is it possible that the ECU still needs an update? Or, is there a different problem? I know its not the o2 sensor, plugs, battery, or intake gasket, and of course Toyota mechanics told me its normal, and cant duplicate the problem.
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I am working on a 2003 toyota matrix 1zz-fe automatic.
Replaced engine ran good for 20 miles, rough idle as if vacuum leak but no vacuum leaks to be found. If I disconnect and plug the vacuum hose that pulls from the air intake is smooths out and runs good.
Some reading suggests that it is the idle air control any?
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I put a clutch and throw out bearing in it about 4 months ago. All the sudden driving went to shift from 3rd to 4th and it wouldn't go. If you turn the car off you can shift it into gears. BUT if you try to turn the car on in gear it just jumps forward. I have had guesses all over the board about what it COULD be. It seems like a very exact problem to me. BUT with that said I have never worked on a car, just drove one.
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2003 Matrix XR, 89K, well maintained by old owner, just about to become mine.Took it to old owner's mechanic for pre-sale checkup. He said humming noise was rear differential and replaced it.
Now it pulls to the right when driving, to the left when braking (also throbs), and generally just feels like total crap to drive. There's also a noise that I hear as sort of a ...rough grinding/roaring sound? Seems to be from the back.
Details: the hum increased in pitch as wheel speed went up. Nothing else changed it - not going from dirt to pavement, drive to neutral, uphill to down, straight to cornering. Otherwise, everything felt fine - handled really nicely, that's why I wanted to buy it.
When I picked it up from the shop after the differential implant I drove it about a mile, flipped out at the way it felt, and took it right back; it was near closing time. Kid put it up on the lift, looked and said it was a front wheel bearing and to bring it back next morning. This morning the still-owner picked it up, test drove it and said "Yep, feels all loosey-goosey," brought it in to the shop, and different guy says "it's the alignment, bring it in tomorrow."
Alignment? Wheel bearing? Why all of a sudden? Maybe the differential is bad or not installed properly? Why am I the only one thinking this? Also, they lost one of the springs to the bit at the front where the exhaust joins on to the engine so there's a big loud exhaust noise, which they didn't notice when they test drove it.
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I have a '99 Frontier (3.3L V6) just had the radiator, hoses, fan clutch and 3 exterior belts replaced. Car's not overheating anymore, BUT, now I hear intermittently a "clack" (which sounds similar to a loud compressor when it shuts on and off). Car never made this sound before the repairs mentioned above were made.
I took pictures and could use finding out what the part is called that is making the noise. I see the 3 discs on the front side of one of the belt pulleys (i think?) spinning, then they will stop, making the clack sound. It seems to me that sometimes the sound is loud and then other times it is extra loud --are there two sets of these discs and the other set is somewhere I can't see?
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When on the highway, there is an occasional scraping/grinding almost a windy noise from the front left of the car. Happens most at high speeds when going over bumps. it's a Toyota matrix 2003 with 163k miles. We're on a car trip and are wondering if we need to address this now or if it can wait a few days.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S. This was the first time in 4 years that I have had to recharge the A/C. The compressor is not cycling on and off. It is only spinning consistently. Why this is happening?
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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So my 2006 toyota tacoma prerunner v6 was working fine i could drive it a bit but after i changed the drive belt it starts and shuts off after 3-4 seconds. if you accelerate immediately after you turn it on then it wont stop till you stop accelerating...
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I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon XLS that shuts off while driving! No acceleration or power-steering; the car simply stalls. The car only stalls when at low speed such 20mph, stopping for a light, or slowing down to turn.
The car will start right back up or you can put into neutral and restart. I have been dealing with this for a year! I have taken it to my Toyota dealer where I purchased and to no avail. The car throws no codes and no indicator light stays on once the the car is restarted. I have changed electrical wires, replaced battery, disabled remote start (previous owner installed; I purchased car used).
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