Nissan - Frontier :: 1999 - Intermittent Clack Sound Similar To Loud Compressor When It Shuts On And Off


Oct 12, 2011

I have a '99 Frontier (3.3L V6) just had the radiator, hoses, fan clutch and 3 exterior belts replaced. Car's not overheating anymore, BUT, now I hear intermittently a "clack" (which sounds similar to a loud compressor when it shuts on and off). Car never made this sound before the repairs mentioned above were made.

I took pictures and could use finding out what the part is called that is making the noise. I see the 3 discs on the front side of one of the belt pulleys (i think?) spinning, then they will stop, making the clack sound. It seems to me that sometimes the sound is loud and then other times it is extra loud --are there two sets of these discs and the other set is somewhere I can't see?

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Last time I drove it (I'm in AZ and heat was over 100 degrees) it started right up and was fine until I'd gone about 3 miles on the freeway doing about 65mph. Started to climb in temperature, but not into the red zone. I drove with it hovering just above the midway point (midway meaning perfectly normal temperature on my gauge) for a couple of more miles, when it started to climb just a bit more, I got off the freeway and dropped under 45 mph, the temperature went down to normal. I drove about 40mph back home and haven't driven it since.

I checked my coolant, which was extremely clean and not low, and was not boiling when I checked it soon after the temp went up on the freeway. What is the most likely cause?On a side note, since I do not drive it that often, what is recommended as to the gas that has been sitting in my tank since? How long does the gas stay good for? Further wondering how often it is recommended I drive it, for how long and at what sustained speed to keep my truck up and running?

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Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?

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Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Loud Humming Sound Like Compressor Or Something Kicking On And Not Fully Engaging

I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.

Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.

The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.

Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.

So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.

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Nissan - Frontier :: 2000 V6 Just Randomly Die Going Down The Road

It's a 2000 Frontier V6 4x4 CC with 104k miles. It just randomly dies going down the road. Sometimes it restarts. Sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I just get a small blip (loss of spark or fuel - unsure which) when going down the road then it's fine again. It seems seems like a loose connection somewhere to me but I have checked and repaired everything I can find.

A little history of problems...

Fall 2014 - Fuel Sending Unit; I had similar problems a little over a year ago and I replaced this at ~90k miles. The stock one was corroded and the fuel pump wasn't getting power. Got the part from Nissan directly. Truck ran great for a year then started having same issues in fall of 2015. I am thinking this couldn't have gone bad again in only a year, but who knows? No engine codes at the time.

December 2015 - Distributor #1; I replaced it with one from Auto Zone. Had the same problems that day. Returned that and replaced with one from Napa Distributor #2 (New - house brand - supposedly made by Altrom - which is supposedly comparable to OEM) This seemed to fix it for a little while. At the same time I did the timing belt, spark plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, a bunch of suspension work, etc. so I had the harness off. Did I knock something loose? I feel like I have checked it up and down.... doesn't seem that way.

January 2016 Bad Wire?; Same issues. Wiggling the harness into the distributor seemed to have an effect on restarting so I pulled the harness apart from the dist to the main and found a small cut on the casing of one of the ground wires. The wire was not damaged, just casing. Fixed that with a double layer of shrink tube and it ran fine again for a couple weeks. In this same period my catalytic converters also went bad. My exhaust manifolds cracked, next thing I knew I had catalytic converter codes on both sides of the engine. Ran it like this for a few months.

April 2016 Distrbutor #3 Same problem. Randomly dies. Gets progressively worse over a couple day period. I gave up and took it to a shop (Downing St. Garage in Denver, CO) They diagnosed it as a bad distributor so I had it replaced AGAIN (they were nice enough to use the Napa part I bought and get a free warranty part)

June 2016 Distributor #4 Same problem again. Still have not replaced cats - did not want to spend the money when the ignition problem seems un-related. Replaced distributor with another warranty part from NAPA. This time the one that I took off made a crunching sound when you turned it by hand.

August 2016 Finally replaced cats. CEL codes were gone for an afternoon then the truck started sputtering down the road again... CEL P1320 and CEL P0325 BACK AGAIN!

I am at a loss on what to do. I have read that the MAF sensor can get dirty... but this doesn't seem to explain the P1320. Anyway, I ordered some cleaner, a new knock sensor and another distributor (this time Nissan brand but re-manufactured... they no longer sell new ones.)

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