Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 XD GT Overheated - CEL Came On
Oct 19, 2013
A friend was driving my 2003 Elantra XD GT and he said the car overheated - CEL came on and then he pulled over. When he tried to restart it would nearly start but was undrivable. I put the handy - dandy bluetooth reader and android software in my android phone and it's giving me:
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Also I've had this car for only about 16 months - did notice a bunch of clay buildup from 'stop leak' side the radiator. What I need to get it running again? I'm thinking:
theromastat & gasket
spark plugs
fuel filter
Here are the details on the error codes:
P0117 Hyundai - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
Possible causes
- Low engine coolant level
- Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
- Faulty engine coolant thermostat
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: P0117 Hyundai Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input OBDII Engine Light Trouble Code
P0302 Hyundai - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
Possible causes
- Faulty spark plug 2
- Clogged or faulty fuel injector 2
- Faulty ignition coil 2
- Fuel injector 2 harness is open or shorted
- Fuel injector 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Ignition coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Insufficient cylinder 2 compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Intake air leak
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I have a hyundai elantra 2005 with over 200K mi. last month it started overheating. I could not go a mile before it reached H again. No one could find any leaks and fan would go on if I put the AC on. Yet it would get so hot the car wouldn't start ( sounded like it was out of gas) I finally got to my mechanic and they said and showed me the fan had cracked and was bubbling water/coolant out. It had been okay could I have made it crack by still driving it? I stopped everytime and let it cool down..
They replaced fan but car was still going to H immediately. They then told me I had blown the head gasket. Between that and the fan it cost me 1100.00 I just got it back today and the AC is blowing hot air and it is driving oddly. It lurches and the tach sometimes jumps to 3 while I'm driving. they also replaced the timing belt again which the mechanic there had just did a few months ago. It feels like its going to stall out all the time and when I get around the 60 mph mark it lurches or feels like its not even in gear as though I'm revving it. Could this be normal because the head gasket is new and has to break in?
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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I was cruising along yesterday and felt the steering pump go out on the highway. Nowhere to pull over and pulling a big horse trailer. Three miles later I finally get to a wide spot to dive into. I look down and the temp gauge is maxed and the oil light is on. Most of the antifreeze boils out when I got the engine shut down. I had no choice but to have a friend bring a new belt and some antifreeze to the rescue. Got it changed and filled back up. Started and drove home fine.
I've got this twisted gut feeling about the whole deal. What kind of damage did I likely do? Things to look for? Did I just kill the longevity of the motor? I've been trying to do things right and treat it well to ensure a reliable truck.
On a side note the belt came apart in ribbons and it was absolutely shredded. The belt appeared to be less than 3 months old. No cracks or tears and a bright white numbers sticker on the back
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My Explorer overheated yesterday. Found a very loud hissing sound coming out from under the hood. Let it cool off filled it with antifreeze, started it up, started hissing again. Found the thermostat had broken. Replaced the thermostat. Filled it up again. After replacing the thermostat I found out the hissing sound was coming from the plastic thermostat housing. Replaced the housing. Again I refilled it with antifreeze.
Started to let it warm up and noticed liquid dripping out of the exhaust pipe. Checked it out. Had a green color to it. Then I noticed the coolant resivor was full up to the cap. I did not fill it up past the full line on the side of the resistor. Tried removing the cap.
Found out it had a ton of pressure under it. Bled off the pressure. Refilled it again. Did not put the cap back on. Tried starting it. Instantaneous geyser. Runs like it is missing on 1cylinder. No oil in the coolant that I can see. No coolant in the oil. Could this problem be caused by a blown head gasket of a crack in 1 of the heads or in the block?
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I have a 2003 Elantra that is squealing when turned on, it also does it when steering especially when turning right though much less when the car is moving.
You can check the video out to see what I'm talking about. The car had already been driven when I filmed this so no squeal when I first turn it on.
The power steering belt seem very tight, no wobbling, the alternator belt has more give but I can't tell whether it's too loose or not. The power steering fluid is dark, I don't know if that's normal or not and the reservoir has lots of dark-ish residue all over it. I'll have to look tomorrow during day light to see whether a hose may be leaking
Video is on youtube: [URL] ....
Just wondering what kind of fix the car needs, it's a clunker we drive on short distances but it's starting to squeal a lot , and the other day when one of us drove it it started to smell like burnt rubber, and there was even a bit of smoke coming out of the front hood, we haven't been able to replicate that so far. The oil is good, the oil cap is clean no gas smells.
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I got this car 5 months ago for my sister and it run well until recently. The car has 117k miles on it but a couple of weeks ago she said she had problems starting it. It did start the next day (she did nothing) and had no problems for a few more days. A day later she said smoke came from the hood and it stopped. I came out a few days later and try to start it and it started on the first key turn. Saw no sign of smoke or anything that caught fire. Notice the radiator water was low so I turned it off to put water in it and it would not start back up not even with a jump. I placed the scanner on it and no codes were listed. Took the battery to get tested and it failed so I got a new one. Tried starting it again and it still will not turn over.
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The A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
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Below is a link to a video showing what my 2003 Hyundai Elantra is doing. It is idling very rough (Jerks at idle) and can actually be heard in the exhaust. I think it may be miss firing?? Does not do it at speeds over 60. Under 60 it can be felt at times, but only at low RPMs. [URL] ....
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My 03 Elantra GLS was throwing an error code that my reader said was the upstream O2 sensor (before the CC in the manifold) and the #3 plug. I swapped it out at the same time that I changed out the spark plug and spark plug wires and the thermostat housing.
The thermostat housing installation all looks good. There are no leaks/drips anywhere near it and all seems good.
The problem is that, after clearing the codes and taking the car for a test run, all seems good until I get it to the point where it is about to shift into 3rd or I've reached about 20-40 MPH. At this point, the engine sounds like it is gasping for air and ready to cut off. If I pull over for a moment, I am able to get going again until I reach those same conditions. I've even had the gas pedal floored and the car won't move during these times and the CEL is now back on saying that the brand new O2 sensor is the problem again (the codes for the #3 plug are no longer showing).
I did remove the battery cable to reset the codes in case my reader wasn't fully clearing them and verified that the fuses related to the ECM/ECU were all good.
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So my temporary solution has been taking the gas cap off for 10-15 seconds, I suppose so that the tank can release any excess pressure. Then the car starts fine. This has worked pretty much every time. If I don't do this I could end up waiting for about 15 minutes before the car starts up again. They must be related. Is there anyway that the tank pressure isn't being vented properly?
I've replaced the thermostat, the ect sensor, the crank sensor, the fuel assembly, I've cleaned the injectors and replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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2003 Elantra GT ... Yesterday I went out and heard a sort of grinding noise from the rear. I thought it was the brakes. This morning I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the brake pad rubbing on some rust on the rotor.
This evening my wife took the car out and, in addition to the sound, said she smelled burning rubber. So I took it out and after a while figured out it is the bottom of wheel coil (see photo) on the rear driver side rubbing against the tire! I assume the mechanic didn't spot it because it may move out of contact with the tire when the car is lifted up. What happened here?
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