Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
View 5 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
I recently bought a 2005 Elantra. At about 45 mph I start noticing air noise from the Driver side window. It peaks at about 70 mph. Not super loud but sounds almost like the window is very slightly cracked open. There is no air intrusion or water during rains.
I had the dealer check it and they test drove and said that it was normal and probably caused by the mirrors.
I have had mirrors like this before on other cars and never had air noise.
My question to you all is; Is this normal or should I pursue it further.
2001 GLS... Noticed the passenger front door window outer weather strip is loose at one end. Looks like a "tab" on the strip fits into a slot on the door panel. Since the tab is smaller that the slot, is there some kind of clip or something that holds the weatherstrip tab securely in the slot?
View 2 RepliesMy wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 camry with 107k miles. The power drivers window makes a pop when leaving the seal. I have cleaned out the track, lubricated with silicone spray, but this did not solve the problem.
When I put a little pressure on the top of the window with my hand it comes down fine without popping.
I am thinking it may be a track issue. It appears the window is shifting 1/4-1/2 " to the front just before it contacts the seal.
Headlight fogging up after car wash or rain.
Driver side window seal folds over badly, wind noise is evident.
Passenger side lumbar broken .
And finally. The front jerk when applying brakes. It's not there in the morning, gets worse as you start driving, feels like strut bar bushings, but all of the control arms were changed in February. Having a tech join me for a ride to show this problem to him. I'm staring to think it's either caliper, or brake actuator.
My area has been hammered by rain for the past several weeks and I've noticed water leaking in around my driver's side headliner and down my column. I suspect it is the moonroof drain hole that is causing the problem, but when I pour water into the hole it drains out of the bottom of the car like it should be.
I want to check the drain nipple under the column trim to see if the hose is damaged there and leaking, but I'm not sure how to remove it. I've read about the Sante Fe trim removal and it sounds like you should just be able to pull on it from the top and work your way down, but I want to check as I don't want to start breaking clips to "test" out if it works.
Is the column held in by friction clips that should come loose if I pull with enough pressure toward the rear-view mirror?
2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 RepliesReplaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
A few weeks ago, my left power window spit up a screw and now the window is stuck. The motor grinds away and the window won't budget. Would a regular auto mechanic be able to fix this or do I need to go to a body person?
View 1 RepliesThe drivers window on my 2016 Elantra freezes up with ice in cold weather. How can I safely unfreeze it?
View 8 RepliesMy driver side window switch as stopped controlling my passenger window. It used to at least lower it and then not raise it but now it won't do anything. However the window rolls down and comes up just fine if I use the passenger side switch. Does this sound like a bad switch in the driver side? This is a 2010 Elantra.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and the passenger, electric window will not go down. Took it apart and pulled the motor off and tested it. The gear works for going up, but not down. I tested the wires and the switch. Everything was getting power. The power from the switch to the motor was checking out to, but the motor won't turn when the button is pushed to go down. I thought maybe the motor was bad, so I wanted to make sure.
I pulled the motor off the rear door and hooked the front motor onto the wire harness for the back door and tried it. The motor worked up and down. Now I'm thinking it might be the switch, even though the power was going to the right places when I tested it. Well, since I knew the back door switch worked, I took that switch and clipped it into the front door's harness and tried it. It worked going up, but didn't work going down. Same as the other switch. Can that wire harness be bad, even though it has power going from the switch to the motor for going down?
The driver side window on my 2005 Lancer goes down okay, but when I raise it, it goes up very slowly and sounds like there is something scraping against the window. It started after the first ice/snow of the season after I moved up to Michigan (from Texas...where we don't know how to deal with this stuff). I have an uncovered parking spot so at first I suspected that some ice got stuck in there during the storm, but it's gotten significantly above freezing several times since this started, so I would think it would have melted by now if it's just ice. It has gotten a little better since then but it's still having problems, so I'm starting to think it's some dirt/sand/other gunk that's still stuck in there. Side note--this window never quite completely seals very well ever since I had some body repair done on that door...so that might have contributed to this problem.
Is it safe to continue using that window? It still "works", it's just slow and noisy, and it doesn't seem to be doing any visible damage to the glass. Is there a risk of completely burning out the motor?
My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
View 2 RepliesI am sure this is pure coincidence but we had to have a new battery put in my wife's '09 Avalon. Later in the day we noticed that the front window switch for the passenger window on the drivers side, does not work. The one on the passenger door works fine so it's not the motor. How difficult are these to replace? BTW, the window lock switch is NOT on.
View 13 RepliesI just bought a 2005 Prius a couple days ago and have spent the weekend discovering "hidden" little issues. One was that after a heavy night a rain there was a small pool of water in the very back of the car underneath the cargo area near the wire that runs from the traction battery. In fact the little prongs holding a slim white (electronic) box connecting to the battery were rusted out.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
I have a 2005 Bonneville. Just recently the doors will lock and unlock on their own. The controls(windows/mirror) and lock on the drivers side works intermittently. The window and locks on the passenger side work correctly. At least I haven't found a time they don't work. Coincidentally, things started acting up after the drivers side widow was left open and a little rain came in. I have removed the mirror/window control panel from the drivers side, unplugged the connector, cleaned and put electrical grease on the contacts.. I did the same thing with another connector I could reach inside the door panel.
View 3 RepliesI have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?