Mitsubishi - Lancer :: 2005 - Scrapping Sound On Driver Side Window When Goes Up
Jan 22, 2012
The driver side window on my 2005 Lancer goes down okay, but when I raise it, it goes up very slowly and sounds like there is something scraping against the window. It started after the first ice/snow of the season after I moved up to Michigan (from Texas...where we don't know how to deal with this stuff). I have an uncovered parking spot so at first I suspected that some ice got stuck in there during the storm, but it's gotten significantly above freezing several times since this started, so I would think it would have melted by now if it's just ice. It has gotten a little better since then but it's still having problems, so I'm starting to think it's some dirt/sand/other gunk that's still stuck in there. Side note--this window never quite completely seals very well ever since I had some body repair done on that door...so that might have contributed to this problem.
Is it safe to continue using that window? It still "works", it's just slow and noisy, and it doesn't seem to be doing any visible damage to the glass. Is there a risk of completely burning out the motor?
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I own a Mitsubishi Lancer 2005 model, From the past recent days I feel some kind of missing with the car, when we try to accelerate it. It seems to be some kind of fuel injection issues. I think doing a fuel injection service would be better. I didn't have much knowledge about car repair.
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Replaced the battery on my 07 the other day, and subsequently discovered my passenger side power window would not open or close from driver side control switch. Initially thought the worse of course, that I needed a new motor for the passenger side window. Then I tried the passenger side window switch and the window worked fine.
So now, I think that the switch for the passenger side window (on the driver's side) is bad, and I will need to replace the whole switch control module. Did a search and found the root cause and solution to the problem. Apparently, after replacing a battery, I needed to RESET the passenger side switch from the passenger side, by HOLDING the switch approx. 3 seconds after raising and lowering the window two times.
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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My driver side power window on my '05 Honda Pilot is not working. Checked all fuses and none are blown. At first I thought it may be the window regulator/motor. I got an new aftermarket regulator/motor set and connected it to the 6-pin control and power cable to test it prior to installation. It did move when I hit the switch. BUT the power window control unit (magic black box in driver side door) clicked when I try to use the failed driver side window. I understand that this control unit also controls the other windows and they all work just fine AND the control unit does NOT click when I lower/raise those other windows. Do I have a bad power window control unit? Is it suppose to click when I lower the driver side window (and not click with other windows)? Could it be something else? I did check the output voltage to the driver window regulator and it did not have the required 12 V to run the motor when switch is activated.
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I have a 2002 Lancer with just over 150K miles. So far, he's been pretty solid. He starts when I want him to and stops when he is supposed to. Last summer his A/C started acting up a bit. When I am in stop-and-go city traffic, everything is fine. As soon as I get on the highway and am cruising at any speed for more than 15 minutes, the A/C stops blowing cold air and just blows as if I just had the fan on, but not the A/C. If I slow down and then accelerate pretty quickly and can make him shift through a few gears, the A/C will kick back in. At first I just thought I was getting some attitude from him (his name is Miles - pretty clever for a car name, huh?) because I moved him from NW Arkansas to the Gulf Coast and he didn't like the heat and wanted me to know it. I took him in for a standard oil change and had the mechanic run an A/C diagnostic. I didn't tell him of any problem I was having because I thought it might work itself out (stranger things may have happened). He told me everything looked good: good compression, blowing at 41 degrees, something else I forgot...anyway Miles passed his A/C test.
The mechanic did tell me that the battery would need to be changed soon. Well in my highly-trained mechanic mind (I have a degree in Art History; that tells you how vast my knowledge is about all things with engines), I thought, "OK, when I replace this battery, that'll give the A/C some more power and everything will be hunky dory.? Not quite. He's still having the same problem. So my next thought was that maybe a fan belt could be slipping or stretching when I'm maintaining a constant speed. Maybe? Occasionally all the backlit instruments lose their lighting. They all come back on, but it doesn't coincide with the timing of the A/C issues. The "Service Engine Soon" light has been on for a while and the "SRS" light will come on every now and again, but that doesn't jive with the A/C timing either. But, that's the story of Miles.I'd like to keep him for another 150K if possible.
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On raising the drivers window, there is an odd rubbing/squeaking sound that appears to be coming from the were the glass is running along the rubber seal (B-Pillar side), during the final 2-3" of travel. While certainly no rubber expert (), I don't see anything out of place. It closes all right.
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I am sure this is pure coincidence but we had to have a new battery put in my wife's '09 Avalon. Later in the day we noticed that the front window switch for the passenger window on the drivers side, does not work. The one on the passenger door works fine so it's not the motor. How difficult are these to replace? BTW, the window lock switch is NOT on.
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Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
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I just bought a 2005 Prius a couple days ago and have spent the weekend discovering "hidden" little issues. One was that after a heavy night a rain there was a small pool of water in the very back of the car underneath the cargo area near the wire that runs from the traction battery. In fact the little prongs holding a slim white (electronic) box connecting to the battery were rusted out.
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i have a 2004 Mitsubishi lancer es 2.0 engine, and it's an automatic. I seem to consistently get a little under 23 mpg no matter how i drive. I've noticed that when going down the highway at 65 mph, it is at like 2900 RPM, is this normal? We also own a 2010 toyota corolla 1.8 auto and it only revs like 2400, and a 2005 xB that revs the same as the corolla, i'm just confused that with a bigger engine, it would rev so much higher.
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I have a 2005 Bonneville. Just recently the doors will lock and unlock on their own. The controls(windows/mirror) and lock on the drivers side works intermittently. The window and locks on the passenger side work correctly. At least I haven't found a time they don't work. Coincidentally, things started acting up after the drivers side widow was left open and a little rain came in. I have removed the mirror/window control panel from the drivers side, unplugged the connector, cleaned and put electrical grease on the contacts.. I did the same thing with another connector I could reach inside the door panel.
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I have an issue with Prius 2005 driver side power window constantly making clicking sound even after turning off the Prius. All other power windows works, just the driver side is having this issue. This started happening after I changed the 12V battery for my Prius.
The window still rolls down and up but it's very slow and making even louder clicking sound while rolling down and up. Also an other thing that I noticed is that windows keep going down slowly by itself after it's been closed. Any clue as to what went wrong with my driver side power window ?
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My driver side power window on my '05 super crew f150 has stopped working. It rolled down maybe 3-4 inches or so and the stopped working and now will not go up or down. All of the other windows/locks/mirrors on the main switch work so I'm not sure if I should start with replacing the motor or try the switch first.
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I'm really puzzled by the electrical issue I'm having with my wife's 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer. It's got a 120,000 miles and we've owned it since new. It has had almost zero problems up until this point.
The other day, my wife calls and says that her A/C isn't working, it's just blowing hot air. When she got home, she turned the car off, removed her key, and noticed that the climate control blower was running. She turned it off and went inside. She had the radio on.
When I came home, I verified that with no key in the ignition, turning on the blower motor switch did turn on the blower motor. I started the car and immediately noticed both the condenser cooling fan and the engine cooling fan both immediately started running. I turned on the A/C, got nothing but hot air, and verified that the compressor was not turning.
I turned the car off and decided to check for fuses. When I pulled the A/C fuse under the hood, I heard a loud CLICK from the A/C compressor area. When I reinserted the fuse, I received another click. I then pulled out the A/C compressor clutch relay, and heard the same click. Since I wasn't sure if it really was the A/C clutch, I asked my sister-in-law to plug in and unplug the relay while I put my hand on the compressor. She did it several times and before I could verify it was the A/C clutch...it stopped. At this point, unplugging the A/C compressor relay would not cause the click. Also, unplugging the A/C fuse would not cause the click.
I then turned on the blower motor (key still off!) and it didn't start running. I started the car, and the A/C worked fine! So I drove 50 miles back and forth to work the next day and figured it was some sort of fluke.
This morning I get a call that her battery is dead. I get home, put the charger on it, and as soon as the voltage came up a little, there was the click from the A/C clutch. Unplugging the A/C clutch relay caused another click. Relay in - click. Relay out - click. Same with the A/C fuse. Then, like before, plugging the relay or fuse back in no longer caused the click.
I do have the service manual and looking at the wiring diagram...the blower relay coil can only get power with the key in ACC or RUN. The A/C clutch is more complicated...it gets power from the SAME source - the ACC or RUN position on the ignition switch. But, ground is through the engine management computer (car is a 5-speed).
The only thing that seems to be common and could explain everything would be a bad ignition switch - the blower and A/C compressor power, plus the engine management computer all seem to be on the same contact on the ignition switch. The service manual ignition switch schematic is very confusing.
I don't want to throw parts at it...but that seems to be the only thing that makes sense?
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I have a Manual 2003 Mitsubishi OZ Rally Lancer. She was sitting for awhile due to the main cylinder causing issues for the clutch, which is now fixed. But I noticed the other day that whenever I press the gas there's a tap noise for a second and goes away, it happens every time I put my foot on the gas. The sound is like someone tapping there foot on tile floor. I can also feel the tap noise.
I'm not sure what it could be. I know the passenger front tire is tinking when I drive around, which I'm getting fixed this afternoon, but what could be causing this noise when I accelerate and how urgent would it need to be fixed?
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I was in 1st gear and was about to turn then a car literally going about 40 over the speed limit was coming so by accident as i was still in 1st gear slowed down to much before i could put the car in neutral and it stalled in gear. Would this cause any damage
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I have a 2010 lancer evolution, intermittently under light to no acceleration the car emits a large cloud of blue-grey smoke from the exhaust accompanied by noticeable oil consumption. This only happens when in 5th or 6th gear or when it changes from 5th to 6th. It only seems to happen when accelerating onto the highway or when going up an incline in a high gear. It only ever lets out smoke when under 2500rpm, never above 2500 and only for a second or two. if I downshift to 5th while this is happening, it stops. I'm at a loss as to why its burning oil.
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Wondering if this would cause any wear to the clutch or anything but was in gear 3 about to upshift but my foot slipped off the clutch and the car didnt jerk the rpms just went back to where they were. Curious if that would do anything
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My 09 lancer pulls to the left even after alignment what are some of the reason its still pulling and when i apply the brakes it also pulls to the left....
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I have an 02 mitsu lancer and over the course of 3 days the car has gotten REALLY loud only when accelerating. it sounds like it has been straightpiped but the muffler is still there. Also when accelerating the car vibrates very noticeably - I can feel it in the steering column and the gas pedal. When I have been accelerating and come off the gas, the car makes a loud hiss that sounds like blowoff valves which is weird because this is obviously a naturally aspirated car. I would have thought there could just be a hole in the exhaust system but that doesn't explain the vibrating and all of these symptoms arose at the same time. What could this be?
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