Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Axle Nut Coming Loose
Dec 21, 2014
why would my axle nut come loose? not once but twice. I had a funny road feel so I put it up and found the front right to be loose.... surprised and bewildered I pulled the cotter pin and retorqued the axle nut... Tightened right up. no more loose. Now a month later I get the same road wander and sure enough it is loose again.... I have already replaced the bearing about 15000 ago and there is no noise from the bearing. The assembly design pretty much locks the hub to the axle with no play in it at all.... Is it possible that I am pulling the axle apart through the outer knuckle?
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I got into my car this morning and looked down to notice that the dash trim is beginning to pop loose... I haven't tried to remove this trim before so I don't know how it happened.
Here are some pictures ....
I am going to take this into the dealer later this week.
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My 2006 Elantra is having a problem I think within the shifting box area. When the cars and park I have a 50-50 chance of the vehicle starting. This does not have anything to do with the break or the switch on the side of the shifter. The transmission while driving is fun and there is no slippage between the gears.
I've opened up the gearbox area and I found we're at the shifter hard into park forwards the car seems to start more consistently. The shifter seems to be very slightly loose. The little orange marks indicating the placement of the shift is not "aligned" with park. It's a bit off. However when I opened the gearbox and I push the cable on the right of the shifter forwards and turn the key, the car consistently starts. Now, I'm wondering if this problem with the cable or maybe a switch in the front? Parts to replace?
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I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
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1993 with 95,XXX miles. Driver's seat has developed a little looseness that allows it to rock just a little. Is there a reasonable fix?
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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06 limited 98,3xx miles.
The front passenger door inside handle is loose, making it harder to open when pulling the handle.
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My elantra seems loose in the rear end when cornering on slightly rough bends just seems to want to skip the tyres are correct pressure have good tread and shocks don't seem to bounce to much.
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I have recently replaced the clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, Strut tower mounts and brakes on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. Everything is working properly but now I have a transmission fluid leak. I can not locate the exact location. It appears that it is dripping down onto the passenger side half axle where it connects at the transmission.
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2001 GLS... Noticed the passenger front door window outer weather strip is loose at one end. Looks like a "tab" on the strip fits into a slot on the door panel. Since the tab is smaller that the slot, is there some kind of clip or something that holds the weatherstrip tab securely in the slot?
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2001 F150 SCAB with 74,000 miles. There seems to be a whistling noise coming from the front axle. It is definately a rolling noise. I can shift into neutral and put it in 4H and still have the noise. Brakes are good, tires are fair... I just rotated my tires (criss-crossed front to back) also sprayed all of my boots with silicone spray. Still has a whistling metal to metal bearing sound. When I have the front jacked up and spin the wheels, there seems to be a decent drag turning by hand. I don't remember having much of a drag before.
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I have an 02 Jetta the the left CV Axle came loose from the tranny/axle flange. I checked the Bentley and it shows that a bolt holds the flange on, I guess a spline. My question when taking one off, is there anything inside that will drop/pop off when I pull it? The reason I need to take it off is that some of the bolts actually broke off, while others screwed their way out. Not sure why they came out or what made the others break but they did. It would be so much easier to get the broken bolts out with the flange out.
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My '04 Prius is currently at 134k miles and I've noticed for a while that the front suspension feels and sounds "loose" over small bumps and imperfections on the road.
I also just started noticing some squeaking noise coming from the axle/hub when I first drive off in the morning.
I first thought the loose feeling could be worn out shocks, but I'm starting to worry that it would be something else.
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So I just had my transmission replaced because my cv axle popped loose and tore a hole right into my old one spilling all the tranny oil all over the road. I was able to find another used one and then bolt it up and now I have a small issue. Its been leaking a little bit of tranny oil through the one piece on the bottom that has two bolts on it and a VW logo on it.
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My dad bought this car some time ago and it didn't have those parts (AC belt pulley, belt and High line cap, that sky-blue thing) but we didn't care, looks like the previous owner didn't use the AC system that much. Well, I had some time to put things to work, so I put the AC belt pulley, bought the belt (4PK810), found the cap and guess what, the AC works just fine!
But... there's this noise coming from the compressor ONLY when the AC is off. When I turn the AC on, that "thing" on the compressor starts to rotate and the noise disappears, and it comes back when it stops.
The compressor's clutch is at fault here? I've read a bit about it and maybe is that thing.
Or maybe the compressor just needs some maintenance after not being used for so long... What do you think?
The compressor is a HCC HS-15, like THIS ONE. The model is different, mine being CD1AA-03 and that one AKTCC-04.
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2004 Hyundai Elantra. Working on crankshaft seal keeps coming out !
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I bought my car last May and never noticed the radiator fans running, but over the past couple of months they've been coming on (or at least running at a higher speed) pretty much every time I take it for a longer drive. They appear to come on only when I'm idling and turn off when I start moving again. The temperature gauge is steady at just below halfway. I'm certain this didn't happen previously, or if it did the fans were at a low enough speed that I didn't hear them. In my inexperience I would have thought they'd be less likely to run in the winter, and we've been having continuously cold weather (<30 C).
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I have a 2002 Hyundai elantra GT. Since I've got the car last year I've had this intermittent problem with the dash lights coming on every once in a while not really a lot at all. It never bothered me before because they would come on for maybe two minutes then turn off and didn't cause any problems whatsoever.? I think because they were coming on during the day. I never realized it happening at night time. In the last month the lights came on at night time and blew out all my headlights. I replaced them three times already. I read that maybe the alternator is overcharging. I haven't checked anything yet.. I'm very mechanically inclined. Just not with electrical...
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I have an 03 Elantra and before joining this I have never paid much attention to the sound coming from the engine but now that ive seen a few videos and looked at some threads I think the engine in my Elantra knocks a bit.
Here is the video i was referring to in comparison - YouTube
It sort of sounds like this but a little less intense. Its definitely knocking but not as loud as the video. It does it all the time, not only when its cold but when its warm too... Its always sounded like that but I haven't ever paid any attention to it.
Anyways... after a whole day of reading about gas and octane and all that fun stuff I am not sure whether to try midgrade or primium gas...
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My 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
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My wife just sent me a text saying she noticed her car (2005 Elantra GT, auto, 140k) making a chugging sound and then saw white smoke coming from under the hood on her way to class.
I'm at work, so I'm trying to pinpoint the problem from my office, but I'm guessing the white smoke is the result of a coolant leak? Bad seal somewhere? What would cause the chugging that's related to a coolant leak? Or maybe it's not coolant-related at all.
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