The malfunction indicator light on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra stays on from the time I start the car and stays on while driving. I know that it needs to be taken to have the code read but I was just wondering what this meant and if it is a serious problem.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Hyundai Elantra SE, and up until very recently I've had no issues with it, and am very happy with this car. About 2 weeks ago the malfunction indicator light came on. I checked the manual and it said to contact the dealer ASAP to have it checked out, but the car will still run. I've been terribly busy, and this is the first chance I've had to bring it in, so that's the plan for tomorrow. What this could mean, and will any necessary repairs be covered until the 100,000 mile warranty? If there is a repair needed that isn't covered, I definitely don't want to take it to the dealer!
Also, a few days after this light appeared, my gas mileage has been horrible, apparently. I say apparently because the digital mileage range now tops out at 255 when my tank is full; it used to be 336. It costs the same to fill it, and takes the same amount of gas, about 12 gallons. The gauge goes up to above the Full line, but I seem to go through gas so much quicker. Today for example, a trip that normally would cost me maybe $10 in gas, at the most, cost me almost $20. I haven't noticed any leaks, so perhaps this is related to the indicator light?
I've just bought a 2005 Santa Fe CRDI 2.0 Second hand, one owner from new, 60,000miles in 7 years. Just had it's 60,000 mile service. Until today perfect. Started car and no revs. but when I put in gear and moved the car, the revs kicked in and I was able to drive normally. Pulled over to side, into neutral, no revs FOR 1 2 or 3 SECONDS, then revved as normal, put in gear, and able to drive OK. Meanwhile, the MIL light came on and stayed on. I know what the hand book says but before I take it to our Hyundai dealer.
View 5 RepliesI bought a 2001 Prius from a private seller after they had just replaced the Hybrid battery with a Gen II battery and it has been running great until the last few days.
First the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and Master Warning Light came on and my husband and I took it to a dealer. The dealer said the error code was P3000 but didn't know more than that. He said he didn't know if the v12 battery currently in the car is the correct battery and he said it looked like it wasn't secured correctly. He said I would have to take it somewhere else to have it worked on.
When we picked up the car everything was normal again and none of the warning indicators came on. After driving it for about 80 miles both warning indicators came on again. I continued driving the car 15 miles, turned it off for about 5 hours and when I turned it on again only the Malfunction Indicator Lamp came on. At first my gas mileage was unaffected but now it has decreased slightly. I usually get about 41 mpg and I'm getting about 37-38 mpg since we picked up the car.
2002 ford f-150 5.4 4x4 ... I have the manual floor shift, the truck goes in and out of 4wd no problem but the indicator light is staying on when in 2wd. The 4 wheel drive does work. had truck up in the air, front and rear wheels do spin when in 4 hi i then put into 2wd and just the rear spin like its suppose to. So its for sure that everything works, its just the light is staying on.
View 1 RepliesI just did a brake job on my 2002 2.7l and 10 minutes after driving both the e brake and battery indicator light came on not the abs. It is not throwing any dtc codes also. Did I do something wrong or is it a coincidence meaning my alternator is crapping out? I replaced all pads and front rotors and sucked out some dirty fluid and added clean fluid. It brakes properly and I do not believe I got air in the system.
View 4 RepliesOut driving the other day and suddenly lost power and dash illuminated the EPC and Malfunction Indicator Lamp. Did a bee line to my home and experienced loss of power and engine vibration. At traffic lighta it emitted large quantities of white or blue smoke that smelled like gas.
Connected to VCDS and had 4 codes:
000768 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
000769 - Cylinder 1 P0301 - 000 - Misfire Detected - MIL ON
004874 - Cylinder Disabling
000135 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure
My assumption was a bad coil, so I swapped them but no joy. Then decided to swap coils and plugs and observed cylinder #1 was filled with gas. Siphoned it out and it was able to fill about 1/4th of a beer bottle, or 3 ounces. Top of piston #2 looked slightly wet, but the origin could have been overflow from #1 via intake manifold. I'm thinking #1 injector stuck in the open position. Car is out of warranty so it may be on my dime unless I can convince dealer that this is power-train or emissions related. Best case, I need one or two injectors, oil replacement from gas contamination, plugs and labor. I thought about the worst case and it could be the above + a complete short block + catalytic converter. No tune, 100% stock
So I just recently got my 2004 Elantra back after 6 months of my dad working on it. The clutch and brakes have been replaced as well as 2 tie rods. The issue now, got it home last night turned it off, removed the key and noticed the radio(aftermarket, came with the car when I bought it) and the clock both stayed on. Called my dad, nothing electrical was touched. What can I do? Is it a fuse? A relay? It has 143xxx miles on it, if that matters
View 9 RepliesThe Malfunction Indicator Light on my 03 VW Passat 1.8T just came on last night. After doing some research online I noticed that there seems to be some issues with the coil packs on the 1.8's. Any other issues that this light is linked to?? And is the coil packs still very hard to get?
View 1 RepliesCar is running fine.. I cant tell any changes in the car at all. Going to the dealer to get fixed and also make them fix my darn headliner that has supposedly been on backorder for 3 months now.
View 2 RepliesMonth ago the malfunction indicator turned on. On checking it was found that wires over the engine were eaten by rats. Reconnection of wires solved the problem.
Today the malfunction indicator light is blinking. Could it be the same wires going loose?
I have a 2006 manual Hyundai accent with 82,000 kms. In the last couple of days the mil has illuminated so i took it to a mechanic who put it on the computer which he says it could be sucking air or bad fuel or many other things. He did cancel the light which stayed out for about 70 kms and its back on its not flashing just illuminated. Can this do any damage to the motor if still driving.
View 11 RepliesI am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
I have a 2003 B5.5 Passat and the Malfunction Indicator Light went off. I went to Autozone for a diagnostic and received the error code:
PO243- Turbo/Sup Wastegate solenoid A malfunction
I did a search but was unable to find out what this is.
I have a 2009 GS 350 and I attempted to start it today but when I tried to start it up it wouldn't fire up as all the ignition lights kept coming on and I pressed the button repeatedly but couldn't start. After a few attempts I noticed the brake was still down from pressing it while I push the start button but the car still won't start. After a while I noticed none of the lights won't come on so I assume its the battery but then I notice the warning light that came on and in the owners manual they call it the Malfunction indicator Light. It states a malfunction in either the emission control, engine control, throttle control or automatic control systems. It says call the dealer if this occurs which I will do tomorrow.
View 3 RepliesI got this exact warning Monday which is discussed in this thread (linked below) and its problem was a bad inverter water pump while mine seems fine: . Also in the linked thread another whom had gotten the exact warning, but inverter pump was not the problem, believed it meant the Hybrid battery was bad and replaced it. , but mine, at least for now, as discussed below, seems fine.
was about to make a trip, 140 miles, gassed up and when leaving station all these (quoted below) warning lights came on. and the car should have been operating in cold condition still as gas station was only a few miles from home. :
Master Warning Light, Malfunction Indicator, VSC, (!), and Hybrid System Warning on Screen.
While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
Yesterday, I was driving home in EV mode, PHEV on, about 80°F, no hills, not accelerating, SOC about 4 bars, about 1/2 mile out, when it dropped out of EV mode, and then I got the red triangle and the check engine light. Today I grabbed the code with an OBD2 reader, and got this:
Freeze Frame Information:
1. DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored - P0A92.
2. Engine Coolant Temp - 138.20 °F.
3. Engine RPM - 1,888.00 Rpm.
4. Vehicle Speed Sensor - 14.91 Mph.
5. Intake Air Temperature - 96.80 °F.
6. Time Since Engine Start - 101 Sec.
7. # Warm-ups since DTC Cleared - 74.
8. Distance since DTC Cleared - 706.50 Mi.
9. Control Module Voltage - 13.69 V.
10. Ambient Air Temperature - 80.60 °F.
11. Accelerator Pedal Position D - 30.98 %.
12. Accelerator Pedal Position E - 46.67 %.
13. Time since DTC Cleared - 30 Hr32sec.
Does this happen because it's in EV mode? Do I just have to put up with it every so often? (This is the second time it happened.)
I have been to the dealer 3 times so far because of something to do with the lighting system. The MFD says "AFS Inoperative" and the indicator light flashes for bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system.
The dealer has replaced a bulb and power module thus far, but it hasn't fixed the malfunction. The indicator light and warning comes on 4 out of 5 times I drive the car and usually within the first few minutes of driving. It occurs with our without the lights on.
The lights do work at all times, but I don't think the adaptive steering/lighting is working when the error occurs.
The car is a 2005.5 GLI (75k mi) w/ EvoTech Stg1 software, GHL stack intake, and an Iridium billet diverter valve.
Well today I was driving and the Malfunction Indicator Light on the dash came on and started blinking. When I stepped on the accelerator, the car felt like it had 1/4 the power and began shaking. The car idles kind of weakly, and feels like it has no power when you step on the gas. Also, when you step on the gas the car will shake. The strength of the shaking depends on how hard I press on the throttle, more throttle = more shaking. There is no shaking when it idles or when I have it cruising, only when accelerating.
My 95 Nissan Maxima just failed smog because the MIL light would not come on Everything else passed. The light was working. I last noticed about 2 weeks ago after I had the car washed. I'm reading it can be a bulb or the computer? What can I expect in repair costs?
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