Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Power Steering Squeal When Turned The Wheel To Full Lock
Mar 29, 2012
I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
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since the cooler weather, i have noticed a short squeal on start after sitting for a while and a squeal when i turn the steering wheel to full lock either direction. question, is the squeal at full lock normal for our cars?
another question, when adjusting the ps belt, do you all use a tool to put tension on the belt till you tighten it or do you just pull back with your hand? I am thinking and hoping the belt just needs a tad more tension on it.
i replaced belts about 2 months ago with gates brand- replaced originals with 30k miles on them. I had squeaking before while running which the belt change fixed.
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This is kind of an odd ball problem since I have not encountered this before, but every time I turn my wheels full left or full right and start moving a really high pitched squeaking sound comes from the front of the car. Is it bad alignment or wear sensors on the brake pads rubbing? the brakes have a lot of pad left so i find that hard to believe.
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I have a problem with my VW Touareg 05 plate. When I turn the steering wheel full lock left or right in tight places the car shudders. It doesn't do it all the time but does appear to be getting worse as time goes on. I have been told that it may well be the Stepper motor.
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Where the power steering reservoir is located on an ES 350 (2013)? I am looking to change the fluid out since my steering wheel is making some noise at full lock. I have been looking under the hood for 2 days now and cannot seem to locate it. I have located the brake fluid reservoir which was flushed out today...night and day difference in braking btw. Now this power steering is bugging me but i cant locate the reservoir.
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I have been hearing the squeal when turning wheel all the way to either side for a while. Recently I changed all drive belts (incl. steering). Squeal started to get worse and squeal when I turn the while just a bit while stopped or pulling in and out of parking spot. I tightened the steering and alternator belt and did not work. I flushed the power steering pump and added new fluid and still won't stop.
Does it mean need new pump or problem with rack? Or is there a possibility for some other "quick fix"?
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Snap or crack sound emanating from the front end whenever the steering wheel is turned or the suspension unloads/loads?
I've noticed it for awhile now but didn't think too much of it but now that it's warmed up enough for the windows to be down, it's starting to annoy me
I read the TSB a few months back regarding the rubber coupling in the MDPS unit but it seems more like a suspension noise to me.
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I picked up a '99 Passat 2.8 GLX tonight and the steering is making a loud squeal and groan when I turn the steering wheel. I checked the fluid and it's brown. I've owned a lot of VW's and Audi's and I've never seen brown fluid in one. I checked for a leak but there's so much oil everywhere from where the previous owner just had the cam seals, timing belt, water pump, and a bunch of other stuff changed. The level looks good, but it's just nasty and loud.
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2003 Prius - While driving I am notice a howling noise whenever I turn the steering wheel to the left. There is no such noise when turning right and there is no such noise when I turn the wheel to the left while the car is stopped (and the engine is still running).
Is this due to a worn bearing in the steering hub?
A worn wheel bearing?
A worn out drive shaft gear?
I want to know what to look for before tearing the front end apart...
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I purchased a 2001 Ford Focus 7/17 from a Ford dealer. While my daughter was driving, at a left turn, the engine light came on, the car stalled, and the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. A friend did a computer scan and said the code came back that 2 sensors, the crank shaft and cam shaft sensors, needed replaced. So we had them replaced.
About 4 days later, while driving home from school, on a right turn, the car broke down again on my daughter. She said the symptoms were the same, engine light came on, car stalled, the steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. So we had it towed to a local Ford service department. They said the ignition coils needed replaced and the valve cover gasket would eventually need replaced (per the mechanic, this wasn't directly related to the issue but a small leakage was found). So we let the Ford mechanic replace the coils and the valve gasket cover. They ran several tests and put 20 additional miles on the car without failures or issues, scans came up clean.
So while driving to school this morning, on a u-turn, my daughter experienced the issue again....car stalled, engine light came on, steering wheel and gas pedal locked up. After sitting a few minutes, the car started up so she drove it home and hitched a ride from dad to get to school.
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I have a dragging/scraping noise (almost like static or some type of friction) that happens when the wheel is anywhere from ~80% to full lock on either side. At first I thought it was wheel rub (have stock wheels and tires), but there was no evidence of that. Dealer checked the noise and said it was "normal".
2015 GTI S PP with 6 Speed, DCC, LP, and DAP.
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Ive got a good video of this noise and u cant miss it! [URL] ....
This happen what I full lock, or almost, the steering wheel to right, u will see on the video, I even show that it don't do it on the other side.
What the hell this can be ?? im on 16'' winter tires, so its not the tires that rubs.
I have installed the Whileline w.a.l.k. and the Tyrol subframe collars 2 months ago so, I doubt it is the subframe?
Possible bad CV joint? but I heard its more kind of clicking noise that this horrible rub.
Possible front-brakes worn?
What else should I take a look ??
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After 12,000 kms of trouble free motoring on my replacement Treg (first one a lemon) it seems to have developed an unusual problem. The best I can describe this prob is that when I go into almost full turning lock (obviously at snail pace speed) the car shudders quite noticeably. The problem occurs intermittently however as of late at least on 50% of occasions. Seems to be worse after reversing uphill a short distance.
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I'm having an issue with my 2004 Elantra.
When I turn the ignition in my car, it makes a very loud noise at the front of the car. This goes away after about 3 seconds, but when I turn the wheel to either side, it makes a very high screeching sound. This persists until I've been driving for a few minutes then it goes away.
I hesitate to say the following, but it also feels as if my steering wheel is a bit "harder" to turn, but maybe it is my imagination. What it could be? I checked power steering fluid and it is at normal levels.
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I have a problem with my 2005 hyundai elantra 2.0L . Every time I turn it on and try to drive, the steering wheel is kinda jammed. It wouldn't turn all the way. And I can here some noises from the hood as i turn it more. Sometimes i have to wait for it till it heats up a little then the steering could turn smoothly. Some guy told me it could be one of the belts (which i don't know which one).
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I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
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I just changed the power steering fluid for likely the first time on my 2007 Camry 2.4L with 76k. Put in Maxlife. I noticed when the engine is running that there is a slight... buzzing sound... when the wheel hits the lock in either direction. Everything else is fine and no leaks are present. Im not sure if it has always existed and I only noticed it now because I was listening for irregular sounds, or if it is something new.
Everything else seems fine and the sound only occurs at lock. And it is minimal, but there if you listen for it.
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I have driven my Hyundai for 79,880 miles. I brought it new in 2005. I had the front brakes replaced and afterwards felt a vibration through the gas pedal, steering wheel and seat. Both driver side and passenger sides had the vibration. You can feel the vibration at any speed. Sometimes it feels as if there is a part spinning unbalanced and bumping against something.
I replaced both front wheel bearings, both CV joints, and both front struts. These were all the original parts and they were all in need of replacement. The struts were so bad that they had no gas to resist a simple push at one end. I had all four tires high speed balanced.
I lifted the front end and stepped on the gas to get the tires going. I did it at high speed and my friend tells me he could hear a rattling of what he thinks are steel ball bearings coming from the drivers side of the automatic transmission. He thinks that there may be a bad bearing(s) in the transmission. I simply don't know. What the cause of the vibration might be? Could my warranty cover the repair?
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I have been having a problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra power door locks, the power door lock switch only works in one direction. It only opens all of the doors locks, but doesn't lock them so I have to manually lock all of the doors. I am pretty sure that the power door lock relays have gone bad, so I was wondering where the relays are located on Hyundai Elantra 2006 so I can swap out the old relay with the new relay.
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT with just over 52000 miles on it. A few months ago I started to have issues with the fob lock button not working. It came and went, usually not working when the weather was very cold. But the power locks triggered from the driver's side door still worked, and the fob could still be used to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
For the past couple of weeks, neither the fob or the drivers side power lock button have been working, and I locked all of the doors and hatch manually. After the last door was locked, the hazards would flash indicating the car was locked, and I could still use the fob to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
As of a few days ago, the hazards no longer flash when all of the doors are locked, and the fob cannot arm the alarm. The fob still unlocks the doors just fine, though.
I've checked the fuse for the power locks in the interior panel (it's good). Using either the fob or the driver's side door lock control causes a clicking noise from the dashboard, but nothing else happens. The driver's side door latch cable was replaced about a month ago.
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2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS
I'm trying to troubleshoot my inoperable power door locks. The door panel button doesn't lock or unlock any of the doors. Fuse #15 appears to be good so I'm trying to test the actuator.
I've removed the door panel and I can see where the actuator is located but I'm stumped as to how to remove it.
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