Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Unable To Maintain RPM With Constant Accelerator Pressure
Apr 5, 2014
2003 Elantra GT 5-speed:
In driveway with constant pressure on accelerator (stick wedged between pedal and seat) a static rpm can be maintained for only a short time(< 2 min) time before rpm drops rapidly to idle rpm. Accelerator pedal never moves (still depressed to high rpm position) but engine is just idling away.
Note: New fuel filter and fuel pump recently installed as engine intermittently chugged/hesitated (acted like out of fuel for a fraction of a sec) especially with warmer air temperatures. Still does this but now unable to maintain driving rpm for any length of time.
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R32 has 29,000 miles. I live at 8000ft. Recently, my R, when traveling back from sea level, starts to have what seems like fueling issues at around 7000ft. These take place by the car being unable to maintain a steady speed and then losing power. Once power falls you can press on accelerator and then will pick up again and accelerate through the gears until you need to back of the accelerator, then the same problem will happen... Once home after lurching around like a kangaroo the car will be fine if switched off and then left for an hour before driving again.
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02 Hyundai Elantra I'm having issues with the lights for some reason or another when I turn the headlights on the blinker don't blink it stays on constant and when there off it blinks but it looks like the flashers are Going off but the left turn signal works with no issues. The dash lights blink to when the right turn signal is on.
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When driving if you ease off the accelerator at an intersection and go again the car hesitates badly and then slowly picks up it has had new plugs etc., very worried nearly got wiped out this morning...
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I own a 2002 Elantra with 75000 miles.
This just happened recently this winter. After a cold startup I hear a constant hissing noise (for lack of better word) coming from under the hood for about 5 minutes .
This is NOT the kind of sharp noise that you would hear from a loose power steering belt but it is definitely coming from that area (towards the passenger side close to power steering belt/alternator), though I could not pinpoint the exact location.
Everything seems to be working fine and after about 5 minutes it goes away. I am not missing any fluids and don't experience any other symptoms.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS, and it has a constant airbag light on in the dash. I have zip-tied the connectors underneath the driver and passenger side to ensure they are not loose. I took apart the center console and unplugged, replugged the airbag module, and the connector close to the gear shift. The two fuses in the fuse panel beneath the storage compartment to the left are good. I am at a block. I can't think of anything else to check, and the shop wants $90 to diagnose the problem. I've also left the battery off overnight to see if that would kwor. Still nothing.
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I have an 04 Elantra GT and have been noticing a jerkiness when driving at a constant speed on the highway. I haven't noticed it around town or while accelerating. I also have noticed that when I disengage the clutch on the highway, the engine sometimes doesn't respond right away, or it even may surge. This has happened when exiting the highway when I disengage the clutch. The engine will slow, then speed up close to 3000 rpms.
I also had a check engine light come on and couple months ago. The code indicated that the upstream O2 sensor was bad. I took it out and cleaned it, but didn't replace it. Is this a likely culprit for this set of symptoms? If so, how can I test the sensor to be sure? I heard that I could disconnect it and run the car and see if the surging lessens, but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.
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Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
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Ford Explorer has been making horrible noise (constant whine when accelerator is pressed)... The mechanic said he found metal in the power steering fluid and told me we need to replace the power steering pump and the rack & pinion system. Is he right about this? He said you can't replace one without the other... I've done a little research and I think we can get away with a new pump.
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I picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
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2004 Elantra sedan 2.0 ... When engine is started oil pressure light comes on an engine is knocking. Light goes out and knocking stops until you accelerate to a shift point. is it time to replace the engine. Oil is full. 144,000 miles
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I checked the coolant level on the reservoir and it was low.
I decided to add coolant by removing the radiator pressure cap, however, the coolant fluid is full under this cap.
So my question is where should I add coolant? through this cap or the reservoir?
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In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
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I have never had this problem with my 2010 Matrix until this week when I put the summer rims with transponders back on.
As per the manual, I turned the key to "on" and held the reset button. The pressure warning light is supposed to slowly flash 3 times to indicate that it has been reset, then go out. Holding the reset button has no effect this year and the pressure warning light just stays on.
The manual says to take it to a Toyota service centre if the reset procedure fails.
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When I look under the hood of the Elantra and then try to close it, it seems to not want to close. I usually have to lift the hood up and let it fall which kind of worries me will break something...
or I have to put what seems to be a lot of pressure on the hood with my arms and hands to close it...to the point where I feel the metal of the hood bend slightly inwards and then pop out to its regular shape.
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Replaced my rotors and pads and I still do not like the braking feel as I apply constant pressure to the pedal. No matter what I do, I cannot apply even or consistent pressure to pedal and get the car to slow down smoothly or in a linear way. It feels like some power assist component applies varying force to the calipers no mater how slowly or quickly I try to slow the car down. It just isn't smooth like other cars I own. The brake pads grab fine, no warped rotor issues. Does your car brake smoothly from 40 MPH to 0? Is there some power assist unit that may be going out?
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
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I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
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MY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
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The brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
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