Eurovan :: 2002 - Brakes Keep Building Pressure
Jan 27, 2016
2002 VW Eurovan. It will (after some braking) not release the brake pressure and actually lead to undriveability. In other words: I can go for a drive, apply the brakes at the stop signs and then I can feel how the van gets slower and slower even though I am on the gas. All 4 wheels keep getting brake pressure, the pedal gets harder and I have to stop. Then I have to turn the engine off, after 20 secs I can hear a loud groan that goes through the vehicle and the brakes are released. If I restart the engine too soon, the same thing happens again right away. If I wait at least a minute before restarting, then I can drive away until it happens again (and it does not always do it). The van got a new brake booster 15kmiles ago. I am at a loss. Brake fluid flushed regularly, newer pads and rotors, 195kmiles on the van.
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I've noticed the brakes don't build pressure when pumped with the truck in park. I can push on the pedal and it has pressure, but it seems lower than normal. I can also push the pedal to the floor slowly, even if I pump the pedal multiple times. I don't see any obvious signs of a leak and the fluid is full. This is a 2001 v10.
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My degas bottle is building pressure and coolants puking out. This happens after a light drive started months ago it sat at mechanic for 3 months he never touched it just wanted to replace motor so i brought it home. The truck starts and idles and runs fine temp gauge sits at normal. There was white smoke a few times several months back when it started up but went away after warm up but none now. I don't drive it i have a spare vehicle i tried doing exhaust gas test on degas bottle to check head gaskets today with no luck. They gave me the gasser only fluid with tester. No coolant on the ground and I've added the dye to see it with ultraviolet light no leaks around radiator.
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Im lost here, my 6.0 is building coolant pressure on start up, and the temperature is not overheating. I cant tell if the pressure is staying high while driving, but its blowing coolant passed the cap. Thermostat? The truck was on a coolant pressure tester for 24 hours and never lost a pound of pressure.
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I have a 2002 VW Eurovan, 2.8L V6 Winnebago Vista 21B, 130k miles, my check engine light is on but having a hard time trying to figure out what's causing it and what direction to head without spending a fortune. It started while traveling across country two years ago, several days into the trip, after driving several hours at freeway speeds on a cool rainy day, I stopped for gas and when I turned it back on it sputtered and coughed and ran REALLY rough, I slowly moved the vehicle out of the way, about 50 ft, turned it off and when I turned it back on it was fine, except the check engine light came on. I took it into VW and they ran the test... the codes were: P0118 Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 3 Cylinder Misfires P0305, P0300, P0303 P1151 Bank 1, mixture adaptation, range 1, Lean limit not reached, static
They said it wasn't going to destroy the vehicle, to continue on my trip and I'd need to do some sleuthing to find the culprit. The light came on and off throughout the trip but didn't have the sputtering again ( although I didn't push it as hard when driving it either, kept it around 65 - 70).Got back to Montana and a local shop replaced the ignition coil. That didn't fix the check engine light, which is on continuously now (that's been 2 years with mild use of about 8k miles).
Until now, it hasn't sputtered again so I didn't really worry about it, but it happened in Oregon last week when it was again cool and rainy, I'd been driving hwy speeds for a few hours, I stopped for gas and when I restarted it sputtered, coughed and rumbled like it did 2 years ago. I turned it off for 30 secs, restarted and it was fine.In talking this over with a variety of folk, we're thinking the issue could be a fuel filter, fuel pump, coolant sensor or catalytic converter sensor... I have a fuel pressure test scheduled in a couple of weeks.
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Im having problems with my brakes mainly being pedal pressure. It's really really soft and has no bite till near the bottom which could be due to the res being low on fluid since both rear calipers seem to be leaking from the handbrake mechanism. When I got my car safetied they fixed my handbrake but I think they put the adjuster to tight cause I felt more rub then what I thought was normal but could be completely wrong. Not to mention this starting happening the day after I got it safetied
the handbrake bracket didn't retract like the other side but since then I loosened the compensator and pulled both side handbrake lines off and retracted the handbrake bracket by hand so now it looks like the right side.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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I'm trying to diagnose thoroughly my braking problems before I start throwing money and time at replacing good parts needlessly. My braking system is on a 1971 f-250 4x4 with a swapped in front and rear 1979 dana 60's. Disc front, drum rears. Brake lines are in excellent shape, with no visible leaks along lines or at fittings. The individual rubber flex hoses at each corners are also sound with no leaks or bulging. Rear cylinders and front brakes are also dry. Master cylinder reservoir leaks a little out the seal under the lid, no big deal I have just kept an eye on it. Topped up front bowl from half the other day. Front pads and rear shoes are fine upon inspection. Brakes are in excellent working order.....when they work!*
So here are the symptoms: When driving, if I step on the brakes, the truck coasts to a stop and pedal goes to floor. However if I pump the brakes 3-5 times, pressure builds up and truck stops great. Than after driving again for even a few seconds that pressure is lost. When truck is parked and off, if I pump the brakes, the system builds pressure and the pedal is firm, when I start it up, the pedal pushes to the floor, turn it off and pedal is firm again.
I mean, I can force it down but I refrain. Are my rear brakes adjusted you ask? That was my first thought since for the past month my pedal travel had been increasing. I adjusted them when I was done inspecting them. I put drums on first, than adjusted both left and right simultaneously(posi rear) until drums would not move, than backed them off a little till I could rotate them with pressure. I have yet to open the system up yet or bleed it. Air in the system seems to be the old go to, but I want to be sure that is the problem as these symptoms exist, before I risk potentially screwing something else up.
Even in my research I have gone down a hundred rabbit holes and found all kinds of people who have done the same. Could this be the master cylinder? Another popular culprit. Could it have an internal leak? I have eliminated the brake booster as the problem because it is dry and when I pull the vacuum hose the brake pedal gets hard. I have an aftermarket ssbc combination proportioning valve on the inside of my frame rail, Could the problem be here? Could the fact that it is extreme cold here lately affect that? Could water and road salt get in it and freeze. Last week I went through some ice into deep water, and the brake travel worsened a couple days after that.
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I have a 2002 ford explorer with 70000 miles on it. The problem is that the oil pressure occasionally go from normal to no pressure immediately. Then within a minute it pops right back to normal. It has happened when I first crank up and sometimes just going down the interstate at a normal speed. My fear is that the oil pressure is really gone and there is a pump problem but with it either working or not I fear it could be a sensor problem.
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2003 VW Eurovan VR-6 died while driving as if the key was turned off. The van was running great before this episode. Now, van will start, but die after about 4 secs. Changed fuel pump relay, engine control module relay, and will run with stater fluid sprayed in throttle body. Fuel pump or perhaps immobilizer?
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Im wanting to delete my abs brake system in my f150 2002 2wd all disc brakes.
I have to change the module with some kinda valve? and turn off the Abs in a tune?
I know the basics of a brake system, but im lost in the abs stuff.
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I have a 2003 VW Eurovan that had it's transmission rebuilt in 2011. In 2012, we were going up a steep mountain road approx. 25 mph and the van downshifted into first gear. We tried everything from speeding up to pulling over and letting it cool down to turning the engine off and on. It would only upshift into the correct gear when we reached the crest of the hill and started going downhill. As I live in San Diego, there are no hills high enough to reproduce this with city driving and so it never happened again until we went back to the same place this year and at almost the exact same spot on the road. We took a trip later in the year to Oregon where we encountered many uphill grades and each time we hit a steep part and going around 20-30 mph, the van would downshift again either into first or second gear, and each time upshifting when we started going downhill.
At the end of this last trip, a new whining noise appeared and is present everyday we drive and gets louder and higher pitched the faster we go. We have taken the van numerous times to the dealership who says there are no engine codes to suggest a problem and their last assessment was the downshifting may be an overheating problem and the whining noise was definitely from the transmission indicating a bearing problem and they suggested getting the transmission rebuilt again. The transmission shop states that the transmission is fine by the fact that the fluid is in good shape, the transmission is basically "dumb" and only does what the computer tells it to and therefore it is a computer problem and the whining noise, although new, is just a normal noise that all transmissions make. Each place points me in the direction of the other but neither has solved my problem.
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This is on my 2002 Ford Excursion 4x4. I have replaced the brakes 2 times with the same results.
New: rotors, pads, calipers and grease the caliper slide pins so they are sliding properly. I have also replaced the slide pins the first time. I even lightly greased the ends of the brake pad back plates where they mount in the calipers/brake clips. There is always more brake dust on the left front wheel compared to the right front. The steering wheel turns to the left when I hit the brakes. I can't figure this out.
The one thing that seems strange is it was very difficult to get the pads and brake pad clips into the caliper. It almost seems like the pads are too tight into the clips/caliper. I am wondering if taking a little material off the ends of the brake pad back plate to allow better movement in the caliper/clips.
The left front is either grabbing too much or the right front is not grabbing enough.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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My 2003 passat 1.8T has been in and out of the shop for the past few months all for the same prob oil sludge was building up in the engine the first time around tried to avoid pulling the oil pan and just ran some flush to clean it out needless to say that didn't work so i had to have my mech pull the oil pan and clean up the mess...... even though this is a known issue that vw is well aware of the refuse to fix the prob unless u have all of your oil change receipts which I do not have because i have my stepfather change my oil I now know that I need to run full synthetic in it......
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Today while parking my van infront of a building, with my foot lightly on the brake- my van accelerated uncontrollably and smashed into the building. Luckily I was only 2-3' away from the building- and no one was infront of me. The reving noise and speed at which I hit the building was shocking. I was afraid to drive it, suffered some whip lash and had it towed to a dealer. They have said they can't find anything wrong thru the diagnostic testing. I'm afraid to drive it again-
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I had the headlight replaced in my 2008 Toyota Prius and now after the first rain condensation is building up inside.
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I have a friend who drives a 1987 ranger 2.3 4 cyl and is having problems with oil building up in his air cleaner. I thought maybe it was a bad pcv valve or worn out rings. I looked at it and cannot even find a pcv valve on it. it has one hose that runs from the valve cover to the air clean but there' s no valve in it. are the rings shot or what is causing this to happen?
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I had a small chirp noise in my Van when it shifts into 4th gear. Took it into United transmissions for a total rebuild. First rebuild had the same noise so they did it again and it came back with the same noise.at that point they said they don't know what it is. I can find no one in this state that will rebuild the Tranny.
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While driving, a rapid clicking sound randomly comes from under and to the left of the steering wheel and the van concurrently has stuttered power. It still drives but is rapidly getting worse with frequency and we are on a road trip on the Oregon Coast with young kids and limited local mechanics. It seems like something as simple as a loose connection but before digging in to check electrical connections .....
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I've seen a lot of off road racks mounted into rain gutters or the side of jeeps and whatnot, but can I just use the factory rails? Which way is better? The idea would be to remove the factory cross bars, and saddle up the custom rack in the rails that came with the vehicle.
Also, as far as weight is concerned the rack is going to be about 112" x 52" with a custom light bar in the front. The rack itself is going to weigh about 120-160 lbs. 1" square aluminum tubing., with 1 and 1/4 inch base, about 16-18" tall in the back, 10" in the front
I would like to be able to use a ladder and get up on it myself (200lbs), but I have a feeling this might be too much weight. me+sparetire+rack = fail?????
I know the rack itself can handle it I can jump up and down on it on the floor, but x roof is going to hold up or buckle?
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