Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2002 - Brakes Has No Pedal Pressure?
Mar 1, 2016
Im having problems with my brakes mainly being pedal pressure. It's really really soft and has no bite till near the bottom which could be due to the res being low on fluid since both rear calipers seem to be leaking from the handbrake mechanism. When I got my car safetied they fixed my handbrake but I think they put the adjuster to tight cause I felt more rub then what I thought was normal but could be completely wrong. Not to mention this starting happening the day after I got it safetied
the handbrake bracket didn't retract like the other side but since then I loosened the compensator and pulled both side handbrake lines off and retracted the handbrake bracket by hand so now it looks like the right side.
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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I just finished installing a new clutch kit on my 2003 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition 1.8 and I have absolutely no pressure on the clutch pedal, I am pretty sure I installed everything correctly. How do you bleed the clutch lines, how do you know if the slave cylinder is bad. When i push the clutch pedal it just goes to the floor with absolutely no return.
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My mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
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I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
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I have an 02 Jetta 1.8t automatic with about 140k miles. It has always been a great car. Last week, I was taking off from being stopped at a light and I heard a loud beep and saw that my oil pressure warning light was blinking! It blinked 3 times and then was gone, now last week temperatures were very low for my area. Today was actually pretty warm and sunny. I was stuck in gridlock traffic, it took me 25 minutes to go 1/4 mile. Idle, Idle, creep forward... Idle, Idle, creep forward...etc.
I noticed that the temp gauge read over 200, not in the red, but too close for my liking. Then a moment later when it was time for me to move up a bit, there was a beep and then that low oil pressure light again, 3 blinks and gone. I was panicked. I shut my engine off while I waited for traffic to move and when I would move forward it was the same thing. I finally pulled over, as I was stuck in traffic about 1000 feet from a friends house. I stayed there for 4 hours and then decided to fire her up again. Totally normal.
40 Minutes later as I rolled into my driveway, boom there was that light blink again... I am really concerned but confused by the light not staying on continuously and not having the check engine or any other warning light ever come on. It's weird to me that when this happens I am either taking off or coming to a stop, never going more than 5mph.
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I am at a complete loss as to what could be wrong with my 2002 VW Gold Cabrio GLX automatic transmission. In the last month the car has been to 3 different mechanics & none of them could solve this problem. The basic scenario: The car starts up fine. The engine will run & everything works fine (AC, radio lights etc).
If I put the car in Drive or reverse...it will idle & move. However, the moment I touch the gas pedal, whether in reverse or Drive, the car jerks & dies. If I put it in park & try to start it up again, the engine will turn over & the car will start, but the moment I touch that gas pedal again, same thing, jerks & dies.
Things that have been replaced so far: ignition coil, fuel pump, the catalytic converter has been removed. spark plugs replaced. Now they are saying that the problem is electrical & are working with the fuzes & wires. The car ran fine for 3+ years & I've had no problem with it.
Yesterday the mechanic called me & said the car was ready for pick-up. I go over there, pay him, I reverse out of the driveway & the minute I press the gas, it jerks & dies. Is this problem really electrical? Or is this third mechanic also grasping at straws?
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I got a 2002 GTI 1.8t , with about 109,xxx miles. Ran into a few problems, I took the hose off the fuel rail and turnt the key on. & noticed the fuel pressure was noticeable low & another problem i got is the car doesnt start most of the time. it takes about 3 or 4 cranks before it eventually tuns over. sometimes i noticed if i turn the key on and leave it for a minute or so itll start up. finally want to fix this POS. so I decided to run the codes & heres what i got
P0230
Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
CONFIRMED
P0341
Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Proformance B1
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Why my 2002 Jetta 1.8t does this?
After I drive for a while I have to [slowly] open the overflow cap and relieve pressure in order to not lose coolant while the car sits. It steams for a bit when I open the cap and then the coolant rises in the reservoir then I close it.
If I don't do this then the car loses coolant but I don't see any leaks visible under the car.
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I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
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The brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
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So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
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The problem occurs when you hit bumps while braking, or if you get on the brakes to hard. It seems like the brakes lose pressure entirely and the pedal goes to the floor. It kicks back in when the ground smooths out, or if you are braking hard it slowly grabs again. At first i thought it was sliding, but it definitely is not. The truck appeared to be equipped with abs but the previous owner seems to have cut the abs wire/sensor at the hub. Another thought i had is maybe the brakes need to be bled and have fresh fluid put in them, I have not tried this yet (Plan to this weekend along with a dozen other things). Its rather scary when it happens. but i didnt think much of it until i nearly rear ended someone..with my younger brother in the car. Now i need to fix this asap.
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2001 F-350 / 7.3L / 147K ... What are some symptoms of the master cylinder going out? And is there a such thing as a rebuild kit anymore? The pedal has been getting spongier & spongier over the past months. Truck still stops O.K. but you have to brake earlier than I used to. Pedal can go almost to the floor. Pedal continues to go to floor as pressure is applied. Does not go to floor though.
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2002 VW Eurovan. It will (after some braking) not release the brake pressure and actually lead to undriveability. In other words: I can go for a drive, apply the brakes at the stop signs and then I can feel how the van gets slower and slower even though I am on the gas. All 4 wheels keep getting brake pressure, the pedal gets harder and I have to stop. Then I have to turn the engine off, after 20 secs I can hear a loud groan that goes through the vehicle and the brakes are released. If I restart the engine too soon, the same thing happens again right away. If I wait at least a minute before restarting, then I can drive away until it happens again (and it does not always do it). The van got a new brake booster 15kmiles ago. I am at a loss. Brake fluid flushed regularly, newer pads and rotors, 195kmiles on the van.
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I got a 2002 passat 1.8t in the shop fixin some bodywork on it. When its in the cold the brake pedal gets rock hard and if you step on it the brake lights come on and stay on, when it stays in the shop its fine.
Read online about an issue with water getting in the brake booster and freezing. found nothing in the search...
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yesterday i gave the 02 diesel a treat, 3 new calipers 4 new rotors, and semimetalic pads. the reason for only 3 calipers is the driver side was just replaced 2 months ago after it locked the wheel up on me. both rears were seized so i only had front brakes, and the passenger side front was leaking.
anyway, all new parts and the pedal is fantastic, besides the truck stopping again. this afternoon on the way home from the shop i stopped at a red light. breaks are rock solid. then all of a sudden, the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. but the brakes still hold. i get home and test them. again, pedal slowly sinks to the floor, but they hold. i am thinking still some air in the system, and park hte truck, with the intention of bleeding them again tomorrow.
i get out and see fluid all over the driveway. great. something in the front of the axle is leaking. the frame is drenched. whatever it is, is in front of the frame, on the engine side. what is in there, the ABS unit?
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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I know that VW's are known for funky problems. Sometimes when it has recently rained heavily, the brakes will make a crunching sound when I press the pedal down, and there is also increased pressure, as if there is water stuck somewhere. It will drive fine for a few minutes and then will start shuddering, spewing exhaust, and nearly stalling. The engine light will often flash, and for this reason I brought it into my mechanic who is a VW specialist. It was first diagnosed as a faulty engine coil, and that was replaced. The problem came back repeatedly and he said I would have to wait until it "got worse" for him to figure it out. I've been riding it out since then, and once I get to my destination and the car sits for a little bit (usually 4+ hours), it runs fine again. The rainy season has started so I'm a little worried about this happening on a regular basis. This has never happened in dry weather.
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This problem just started the other day. I park in a very slightly inclined garage and now when I get into my car in the morning, the brake pedal is so stiff the brakes barely engage and the car will actually roll until the engine turns over. All other braking behavior is completely normal while driving and it only occurs if the car has been sitting overnight. Doesn't seem to happen if it just sits for a few hours.
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When my R32 had a little over 2000 miles on it I the brakes started to shudder each time I touched the brake pedal. Driving in the rain one day it was terrible because every mile or so when the brakes did the wiping the steering wheel would just shake. I took it in and they originally said I probably had rust on the brakes. The dealer ended up turning my rotors because they said they were warped pretty bad. After that the car was just fine for the next 1500 miles, then I slowly started to feel the shudder coming back when I brake. I am now at 4700 miles and it is as bad as it was before. I am taking it in for my first oil change Monday and told them to check my brakes again. I hope they do something because I don't want to run in every 2000 miles to have the rotors turned.
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