Wife drove her truck yesterday and not one issue... Today she has no brakes. I checked the fluid and I'm going to try and bleed the brakes but would like to know what else I need to check>
I was in her truck yesterday going to church.. so I don't get it. The brakes push all the way down to the floor.. When you pump them they seem to build pressure but loose it..
I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
View 1 RepliesThe clutch on my 2003 Toyota Tacoma has been acting funny for a while. I have to pull the pedal back up with the top of my foot about half the time, otherwise it acts like the clutch isn't all the way disengaged when I push the pedal to the floor. The master and slave cylinders have both been replaced as well as the clutch pedal mechanism itself (thought it might be the spring). I adjusted the push rod a little bit and it seems to have worked slightly but it's definitely still a problem.
View 3 RepliesIn my 99 with a zf6 it seems like when I push the clutch to the floor it's not disengaging all the way. It has a newer valair clutch in it maybe 15000 miles on it. It's really hard to get the truck in reverse or first from a stop. If the truck is stopped and it's in reverse or first with the clutch to the floor it will move in that gear. Is there a adjustment on the clutch? I'm thinking no since its hydraulic....
View 14 RepliesBrake issues 2003 f250 super duty 6.0. Changed master cylinder, drivers side rear brake hose, new pads all around. Pedal is good at times for a few seconds. I've bled them all numerous times truck running or not flushed power steering pump new fluid. Brakes are spongy or go to floor. Do I need a scanner?
View 2 RepliesMy stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
Trying to figure this out...no luck yet.
I have a 2001 Expedition (5.4L V8). The ABS light has been on for some time. I finally got around to reading the code, and it reported "B1185 - Antilock Brake System Power Relay Output Circuit Malfunction". I have read and found information on the C1185 code, which sounds similar, but very little on the B1185. Not sure what to try.
What I have done thus far is replace the rear ABS sensor that is located on the rear differential. No change. I also replaced all four rotors and pads, but that was due to a pulsing during braking caused by a warped rotor. The pulsing was cured after replacing the rotors, but the ABS light remained unchanged. I removed both front wheel ABS sensors, and thoroughly cleaned them with brake-parts cleaner. Still no change. I have checked the fuse under that dash for the ABS system, and it is fine.
What to try next? I really didn't want to just start blindly shotgunning parts because I don't understand what B1185 really means. Perhaps someone else has seen this on their truck/expedition?
I need to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 Expedition and was going to turn the rotors also. It appears the rotor is held onto the axle by a large nut and not having done any brake jobs in several years, I've never run into a rear rotor that's bolted on. Is this the case and if so, what size socket do I need to get it off. Also, I was curious if there is anything else I need to know before I dive in. I heard it was difficult to get off.
View 7 RepliesMy 2003 ford expedition with the 4.6 v8 engine is having an issue i cant seem to pin point. The lights will get bright and then dim and the engine will die and I will lose power steering and brakes, it will start back up when i put it in park. Also while I am driving randomly the rpms will shoot up to between 3 and 4,000 rpms and go back down. I have seen a video on youtube that says the fuse box in this model is very likely to short out and ruin the circuit board. Mainly looking for any experience any of you have with a issue like this. The check engine light is on, Showing two codes for running too lean and a code for Idle air control valve. Mileage is 239,000 ...
View 9 Replies2011 SE V6 w/25k miles
Lately I've noticed that when I first back my car out of the garage if I push on the brakes it makes a tap/clack noise from the front end. It sounds like it's possibly on the passenger side but it's hard to tell.
It will also make a similar noise if I'm braking relatively hard, just before I come to a stop.
It almost sounds like the pads are moving very freely on the guides and possibly moving or shifting. The brakes work fine and no other noises or issues with the car.
I have a 98 Accord with rear disc brakes and ABS. The rotors on the rear brakes are rusted like the pads are not grabbing at all and when you push on the brakes you have to push really hard to get it to stop. I did tests for the booster to see if it is working and it seems to be. Right now I'm thinking it may be the proportioning valve.
View 4 RepliesI am guessing my brake pads are going but figured I'd check with the forum first. What does it mean when you press down and about 3/4 of the way you start hearing this grinding noise almost like two pieces of iron are grinding across eachother?
View 19 RepliesOk, my brakes have felt the same since I got the truck. I push a little harder than I should have to (not a hard pedal, but further to the floor than normal to where it's harder to push) get the truck to stop. If I want to brake check someone that's riding my bumper I have to REALLY smash the pedal and even then it doesn't grab hard or lock up. Since I have owned the truck I have put all new pads, rotors, and calipers on, Russel braided lines front and rear (all 3 on the rear), and flushed ALL of the old fluid from the truck (Twitch and I went through 2 large bottles when we did the brakes).
[URL]...
After all of this there has been no change in my brakes at all. Not one bit. What's odd is sometimes after it rains when I first get in the truck the first time I stop I get massive awesome brakes, but just the once. I never have a spongy pedal, and I never lose pressure, I just have brakes.
I just changed all my flex lines to stainless steel and my pads and rotors were replaced. I had some issues with calipers dragging. I used a power bleeder to bleed the brakes all the way around. Now my pedal feels really weird. If I push the pedal fast it brakes hard then it goes to the floor. If i just push it soft, it will just slowly go to the floor without braking at all.
View 3 RepliesI have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
I recently had my rotors replaced and when I left the garage I noticed I had to press the brake farther than normal. A few days later, I have to press the brake pedal almost all the way to the floor. My brakes sound like there is an air leak when I push the pedal. Sometimes it stutters at the top of the push.
First question is what could it be? The second question is, could this have been caused by the rotor replacement? Seems awfully coincidental.
I have a 2003 Toyota Tundra with about 57,000 miles and noticed that it takes more "push" to get the brakes to engage. (The brake pedal has to travel further towards the floor) There is no squealing or any other sounds and the brake fluid tank is almost full, I have not added any brake fluid or had any brake work done since I bought the truck in the fall of 2008. I am wondering what the problem could be and the possible cost involved to get it fixed. Brake Pads Wearing? Air Bubble? I'm not sure. This has been ongoing for about 3 weeks, but it doesn't seem to be getting any worse.
View 6 RepliesWife just called on her way home from work and said the brakes grind when she pushes the pedal down. 08 with 39000. What am I in for and what kind of tools do I need? I'll pull off the wheels in the morning and take a look. Everybody seems to say the newer trucks go bad in the rear first,and she never uses the e- brake.
View 10 RepliesWhile working on diagnosing my center console issue last night, my engine refused to start & I am completely lost as to what the issue is.
I hear a buzzing sound when I hit the brakes and push the button to start.
But all my headlights lights & interior electronics work fine.
I am so irritated as this happens on the SATURDAY evening and everywhere is closed on Sunday; hence I can't get the car serviced.
This is a brand new car w/ less than 2600 miles on it.
YouTube ....
About a year ago, I bled all 4 brakes and put in new fluid on my 01 Accent GS 1.6L auto. Still to this day, they are very spongy, and you have to push them far to get good stopping power. My pads are ok on the front, rear shoes are ok as well. No leak in lines anywhere. What's up with this?
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
View 4 Replies