Explorer :: 2001 Ford - ABS Comes On Every Time On Stop
Sep 27, 2011
The ABS comes on everytime I stop on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. This morning I had a scan tool put on and it showed all sensors working properly. The ABS Light never comes on when this happens. It has been doing it for some time now and I am about to go with new front pads and rotors. One weird thing I can be coming up a steep hill to a red light and when I slow down enough without touching the brake the ABS comes on. Not the light just the pulsating.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
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Having problems with the auto-up feature on your windows? Mine seems to randomly stop working from time to time. Only the drivers side has the problem. When the truck was new the dealer re-programmed the computer and put a new window switch in. That worked for a while but the problem keeps coming back. I can easily do the re-programming sequence however the problem always comes back. I have a 2012 Lariat SCREW.
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I have a 04 lariat f150. Problem is every time I stop at a light or stop sign I hear and feel a bump. Coming from the rear I guess . Had my truck aligned asked the alignment person about the situation he said ford just do that. True or false ...
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I have a 2003 Ford Explorer that the alarm goes off at any give time. It will even go off in the middle of the night. I have replaced the rear hatch and window sensors. It has been in the Ford shop many times for this and they can't find anything wrong.
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Original owner, I'm not sure if this LED light on the dash was put on by the dealer or is it a factory install? I've tried many things and been through this site a bunch and can't seem to find a similar problem....
Currently, no matter how I enter my vehicle, I set off my alarm.
1. Unlock the door with key, no alarm until I lift the latch.
2. Press the first number in my 5 digit code: Alarm.
3. Press unlock or lock on my new fob: Alarm.
After alarm is activated, I can put my key in the On position and press the little button under the dash and the alarm goes off. So I'm getting around to the dismay of my neighbors, but I did recently unhook the horn to keep trying things.
Also important to note I guess is that the alarm sets itself no matter what I do when I exit the vehicle after 2 minute delay.
I hope it's a simple fix, but it doesn't seem to be. I've reset the fob, checked fuses, changed the battery and banged my head to no avail.
Another note is that this began on Super Bowl weekend when I drained my battery with a PA system hooked up to my cigar lighter in the tailgate and needed a jump start. My alarm hadn't previously worked for at least five years, but the LED would blink even while driving.
I would love to just unhook or disarm this alarm, plug my horn back in and end this nightmare. (hearing my alarm in my sleep from so many trial and errors)
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I have a 2006 Explorer XLT. Each time I drive it, the trip miles have been reset to zero, and the gas mileage re-starts at zero, and the truck seems to not run as smoothly as it does in the midst of a couple hundred mile trip.
If I stop for gas and take the key out and open the door, the ECM seems to reset itself back to factory defaults. It don't seem to store anything. It seems like there may be a blown fuse for memory storage or something similar, but I haven't found a blown fuse anywhere. It acts like it would if you remove the battery ground and touch it to the positive to reset the ECM.
Which fuse this may be and its location? Is there another possibility of failure?
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My 1997 Explorer 4.0 is giving me a run for my money. About a month ago, it started misfiring and threw a P0300, 301 and 306. It didn't misfire constantly though only most of the time; sometimes it would run perfect which leads me to believe the issue is electrical. I've had trouble with the coil before so I changed it and no difference. The next time I scanned it, there was only the 306 code. Next I made sure that cylinder six was misfiring and the rest were firing by pulling the wire off the coil.
All checked out but one and six. I've already checked the wires, they're both good. I swapped the plug on cylinders 5 and 6 in the hopes that the problem would follow the plug; nope. Fuses are all good. So I know the coil, wires and plugs are good. That leaves me with air and fuel. I can't imagine anything is wrong with the air intake seeing that it still runs. That leaves me with fuel. It has 200k on it and I've never done injectors. Maybe its injectors but why would they only be faulty part of the time?
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The headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
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I bought a 2004 Explorer a couple of years ago and at the time some ot the windows only work some of the time. Then the drivers side fron and rear passenger window stopped working. Now all but the front passenger side stopped working. I've changed the master switch and no change. I know that it is probably a broken wire between the drivers side door and cab but can't understand how the front passenger side would still work if that was the case. If it wasn't grounded or if a wire was broken wouldn't all of the windows stop working? Also the rear passenger power door lock has all of a sudden stopped.....
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So my 2002 ford explorer with the 4.0 L V6, has been cranking along time before it starts. I thought i had this figured out already, i put a brand new fuel pump in it from the ford dealer. That seemed to work, but the problem came back.
Especially when it is cold, it cranks a lot longer than normal to start. and when it does start RMPS go way up briefly and come back down. Seems to only act up when its cold out, say 35 degrees and lower.
So the remote start wont work because it only cranks for a few seconds and then stops. it tries this three times and it gives up. i go out there to start it and cranks for 10 seconds it seems like, sometimes i have to feather the fuel pedal.
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The sensor on the dash by the windshield has fallen. I assume behind the dash. The DRL flash intermittently. So I turn my headlights on. How do I find this sensor that has fallen out of place. I assume that's why they flash ?
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I'm working on a 170 6 cylinder 65 mustang. Every time we come to a stop in the car it wants to die. And it usually does. Any thing specific I should start with?
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I have a 94 ford explorer and the back hatch leaks every time it pours rain. I noticed on the drivers side that there is a gap on the side of the hatch. Is there a way to adjust the hatch? The other side is fine.
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I have a 2003 ford explorer sohc 4.0l , that starts only with the gas peddle pushed to the floor and will only run for a couple of seconds at a time. Just replaced all the timing chains and tensioners. It has 145 lbs compression, and 60 psi fuel pressure. No codes on the computer.
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We are planning on taking our 07 Explorer in to the dealer to have them check on a couple of issues. 4.0 with auto and about 45,000 miles on the ody.
1. While taking off after waiting at a stop light or slow speed traffic crawling there is a high revving sound coming from the engine compartment. Sounds like the fan is over revving compared to the engine speed.
2. Recently the truck has a hard time going into reverse. Physically hard to move the gear select lever and there is a hard "thunk" when it does actually shift into reverse.
I just want to be armed with information before heading to the dealer. The truck is still under a warranty plan, I just need to be prepared. Could it have to do with the Transmission Range/Position Sensor?
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04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
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Finally finished rebuilding my 5R55W transmission and have it back in the 2002 Explorer. Reverse works good, Drive works great, but I am having problems with it wanting to take a long time shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Have to let up on the accelerator in order for it to go into 3rd.
Goes into 3rd hard! 4th gear and 5th gear are finally back. I rebuilt it because I didn't have overdrive. When I didn't have overdrive, it would also take a long time to shift into 3rd and was hard.
Checked codes and am getting a "pending" P0745. Pressure Control Solenoid "A". What I need to start with?
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My 2 remotes quit working at the same time. Tried to reprogram following method on the forum, but I dont get the lock/unlock on the 8th key cycle.
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I have a 92 Ford Thunderbird and it stalls every time I accelerate from a stop. I am a single parent and extremely low on funds. I don't have a mechanic that I trust so I don't know where to turn. How much do you think it would cost to repair? I also struggle when I don't have a car. There is no public transportation close to where I live.
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I have a 2012 Ford F150 that has started to slip (for lack of a better word), every time I come to a complete stop. It takes a few seconds, but then gunk! It just slips/jumps forward a little bit. Nothing after that. A buddy told me he thinks my U-Joint is going out. What else it might possible be?
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