Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Surge At Idle After Driving For A While
Apr 22, 2016
My 2003 6.0 has started to surge at idle after driving for awhile. Like when I drive to work (30 min) and pull off the interstate the idle will bounce around at the stop sign (only jumping like ~100rpm). Does this sound like the ICP to you? I've replaced it once before and am wondering if it's time to do it again?
Also the truck will sometime be hard to start. And when I say hard to start I mean turn the key, let the GP cycle the turn to start and it just cranks. But as soon as I turn the key back off and cycle the plugs again it'll fire right up. It doesn't seem to matter if it's hot or cold. It's been doing it since I got the truck. It seemed to get better after the 1st ICP but didn't completely get fixed.
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I have 01 F550 6spd 4x4. sounds rhythmic, smooth at idle but just over 1200 is a pattern surge but doesn't sound like one cylinder, cel is off, ICP and pigtail changed as it was leaking , no change. From what I've read duty on ICP and IPR should be about same % I've included the codes I've gotten, I have the epc disconnected right now as I thought it was a wastegate issue, checking the ICP plug next,anything I've missed? It had a cyl 8 contribution at idle which I hear is common? Will changing CPS work with that one? Think it's a grey one. There's no water in bowl I replaced filter, since replaced ICP, pigtail, and bleeding fuel bowl and new filter the codes are gone but still misses, will be checking uvch, injector buzz test showed no faults. Old diesel guy said to flood with Stanadyne fuel treat?
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Recently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
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I have a 2005 F-350 Lariat, FX4, CrewCab, with an 8ft Bed if any of that matters. Currently sitting at 191,000 miles and 4,500 Engine Hours I just started running into some issues that I cannot figure out. To start with here is a list of all the mods and prior maintenance that I've done to my truck over that last 6+ years that I've owned it.
I purchased the truck in 2010 and had no issues whatsoever for the first 3 years.....then it all started. While pulling a camper home from vacation "still bone stock" the truck overheated and by the time I realized it it was to late. I ended up blowing a head gasket cracking a head and blowing a hole in my coolant reservoir from the heat & compression of the engine in the coolant system. So to the shop it went.
All of this was done at the same time at just under 4,000 engine hours:
1) Both heads were sent out to be pressure tested "which is where the crack was found", so 1 replacement head and the other trued up and tested by the machine shop
2) All 8 injectors replaced with Airtex/Wells New/Reman
3) ARP Head Studs
4) BPD EGR Cooler
5) New Stock Coolant Reservoir
6) New Stock Oil Cooler
7) Motorcraft Coolant & Oil/Oil Filter Change
8) New Serpentine Belt
After getting the truck back I installed some upgrades that I had wanted but didn't want to do until I had head studs. 4" Turbo back Diamond Eye Performance exhaust, Bully Dog GT Tuner with an EGT Pyro, coolant changed to Caterpillar ELC, Sinister Diesel coolant filtration system, new Optima batteries "I hated them",
Forward a year with no problems I had a crank but no start. I ended up having a bad IPR. A buddy rebuilt the turbo since I had it out and it was leaking. He apparently did something wrong because it took its own life sometime after. So a brand new stock Garrett Turbo with a Wicked Wheel 2 & I changed the IPR "don't remember the brand." Also replaced the factory paper air filter with a cleanable one from AFE that fits in the factory cold air intake.
Little more time and I started to have some overheating issues again, luckily the Bully Dog was monitoring and I had alerts set up so I caught it way before it caused any serious damage. Turned out the fan clutch wasn't working. So I replaced the Water Pump with one from dieselsite.com that has a steel impeller, also replaced the computer controlled fan clutch with a 7.3L mechanical fan clutch and an adapter from BPD.
After that the batteries I hated were replaced. I installed Oddssey Extreme 950CCA ones, a new 185A alternator from FICMRepair.com as well as the complete battery wiring interconnect kit. Did the blue spring upgrade. Replaced my FICM with the BPD 6 phase at 54V setting. Also I changed my starter to an 6.4L Ultima one from O'Reily Auto to bring me up from that slow crank of the 6.0L at about 150RPM to the 225RPM of the 6.4L.
So now on to the current issue. This has happened in the last month and may be related to the issue. I had some small coolant leaks and wanted them fixed. Pressure tested the system & found the radiator and timing cover gasket leaking. I installed a new stock radiator and lower radiator hose. Had the shop do the gasket and a serpentine belt due to cleaners being all over it. During replacement of the timing cover gasket my mechanic found that the LPOP gears had some damage as if something had be in there at one time. Not sever damage just minor. LPOP replaced with brand new one from Ford.
After I got the truck back it was fine for 2 weeks, no leaks or any problems whatsoever. Then I noticed a hesitation as I was leaving work at idle. You could see the RPM's moving up and down by about 50 as it sat there at idle. It got really bad and eventually stalled on me. It fired right back up and ran fine after. I was thinking water in the fuel or just maybe old fuel because it was kinda old and I was at 1/4 of a tank. I went and filled up and it ran great all the way home. Day or so later same thing. At idle you can see the RPM fluctuating and while driving it feels like it has no power at times then it goes away and runs fine. So I changed both fuel filter with Motorcraft ones and put in a new oil filter. It is the Wix brand but I've be running it for years with no issues, one was also in it way before this issues started. The oil has about 2,000 miles on it currently. I verified fuel pressure at idle to be at 70PSI. I tried unplugging the ICP at idle with no change in the hesitation. So I plugged in my SG2 and started to see if I could see anything out of the ordinary.
OAT - 60 Degrees F
KOEO Engine Cold - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.25V, ICP - 0, IPR - 14.9
KOER Engine Warm - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 0.82V, ICP - 576, IPR - 23.5
Cruise at 40MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.14V, ICP - 965, IPR - 32.9
Cruise at 50MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.42V, ICP - 1,190, IPR - 38.0
Cruise at 60MPH - FMP - 54.5V, ICV - 1.27V, ICP - 1,143, IPR - 37.2
While driving this issue comes and goes very randomly. The only parameter I notice changing alot is the IPR. It jumps around a lot and sometimes it will go to 85. I know that this isn't a good thing so I am going to change the IPR later today or tomorrow. I already had a brand new Motorcraft one to put in, plus at the very least I want to look at the screen. I had read somewhere that there could be air in the oil system and that if you run at a high RPM it can remove this air. I never seen any bubbles or anything on the dipstick. My brother ran the truck for me at 3,000RPM for 5 minutes. No hesitation during the test but he didn't have the SG2 plugged in so I don't know the parameters during the test. I thought that it worked but then it came back after a few miles of driving. The above parameters are from this mornings drive home from work.
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I Have A 2013 F250 I Have A H&S On It. I Have It Delete. And The Cel Comes On In The Morning, Ill Get The Code In The Morning. But It Has Something To Do With Coolant Temp Sensor. It Also Does Like A Bucking/Power Surge. Boost Goes From 0-10-15 ,When you Hold Pedal Steady. Do I Need To Update My H&S Or What?
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So last night I got on it a couple times coming home from dinner (just a couple WOT from 25-60) and this morning when cranking it up I noticed the engine developed a rough idle. Also, the typical whistle I hear that kicks in a few seconds after startup is not as pronounced as it was.
With my scangauge hooked up I checked out the ICV values (which appear to be good .25 before startup .84 at idle) ICP (22% at idle 48% at 3-4k rpms) and FICM Voltage (47.5v consistently).
The truck is a 2004 6.0L Excursion (255k miles, w/ headstuds, EGR delete, 4" exhaust, blue spring mod installed yesterday) with a rev-x in the oil and ford cetane booster at each fill-up. One of the issues that I'm currently battling though is that the last owner bought the truck with all mods already done, so he wasn't knowledgeable as to what is done. There's definitely a tune on the truck as well (seen boost upwards of 38lb), but no tuner with the truck (something I also have to address).
Here's a video of startup : [URL] ....
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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I started having an issue with a rough idle soon after startup about a month ago. I thought it might have been stiction so I added some Archoil stuff the other day to my oil interval change and although I have not put too many miles on it, the rough idle is still there.
At startup the engine runs great. I did notice a few times a little longer than normal crank (~3 seconds) where other times it fires up in less than 1 second. This has happened twice in the last month. Once the engine runs for about a minute I get an uneven idle......I wouldnt necessarily call it a miss per say. I took some readings for the ICP and IPR and can provide them if someone needs them. Once the truck warms up it seems to idle better but still not 100%. I have no power loss, no hesitations jut a weird idle with intermittent surging while in gear.
The truck is starting to surge a bit like an ICP sensor going bad but not as pronounced as the last time this happened to me 4 years ago. Basically trying to get opinions as to what it might be or what to check next. I am leaning toward one of three things.....stiction, ICP or IPR valve (original). FICM voltage is good but my fuel pressure gauge broke, but the blue spring upgrade I did.
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I've been getting a surge or revs when getting up to cruising speed before it drops into overdrive or or a constant speed. Happens around 1800-2200 rpm before up shifting to the next gear. More noticeable if under a load or going up a grade when it will hold gear longer before shifting. Only thing I can think of that would be related is the truck does lack some power on a cold start for the first couple miles before getting up to temp. I've cleaned the ebp sensor and it appears to be working correctly, reading within .1-.2 of BAR/MAP key one engine off. VGT solenoid is clean but have no real way to tell if it's working correctly. Other values icp/ipr temps fluid levels appear to be correct. Just changed the oil and it continues, changed the transmission oil and filter about 3000 miles ago. I've had this going on for about 1000. Started about the same time I changed tunes to PHP. They haven't been able to find anything in the tuning yet that could be causing this or if it is just making it show up now.
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I've got a slight surge that's very noticeable cold and not so much after warmed, I can hear the turbo surging and feel a slight power increase on and off, checked with forscan the normal values, alls inline, I did not ck fuel pressure yet but will, I noticed vgt, boost fluctuates when this happens, icp ipr readings inline, this is a 04 with throttle plate inside the air elbow area, can this cause a surge and how to test this, I am not familiar with this setup as my 05 does not have it.
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I have a 2007 6.0 crew cab that I'm having some recent issues with. When starting cold in the A.M. the truck will crank, start for a half second then shut down, after about 3 times it will finally catch and keep running. I'll let it warm a bit, then for the first few minutes of driving it will have a pretty noticeable surge on acceleration only, not at idle.
The surge goes away mostly after warm however you can still feel it happening between 22-2700 rpm and can just see the rpm moving back and forth a little. Lastly the fuel mileage has dropped a good amount. If I baby it around town I'll get 10.5 and can see 9ish occasionally.
Truck has brand new ford fuel filters, ford blue spring, fresh oil change, FICM has 3k miles on it, new batteries in last 6 months. Turbo egr oil cooler done in last 20k. Currently has 120k on it.
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Experienced a weird transmission issue this weekend. Started truck up first thing in the morning, only a short warm up, it was about 50*F. Drove about 200 yards to the gate. Stopped with foot on brake while wife got out to open gate.
Felt truck lunge/surge a little. Thought that was weird. Then it did at again, but more like a double surge, jumping in and out of gear.
Rolled forward through gate then stopped again with foot on brake. It did it again. But this time I noticed the gear indicator in the dash jump. It was shifting from 1st, to 5th, down to 3rd, then back to 1st.
I pulled out my phone and was able to catch video of it doing it a few more times. Start about 16 seconds into video. Transmission Ghosts?
About 1:20 in I drive forward and it shifts to 2nd fine. I stop again at 2:00 in.... and it does it again around 2:30. Then it also flashed a "Check brake system" and "Service AdvanceTrac" message for half a second (around 2:44 in video).
After catching video, I drove the remaining 1/2 mile driveway to the county road and stopped again. It didn't do it any more. It did however flash a traction control off/on message for about half a second. Didn't catch that on video though.
Drove 12 miles to town to Ford dealer. Service Dept was closed (Saturday). It didn't do the shifting again for the rest of the weekend. Made the drive home Monday (140 miles) without a problem.
Dropping it off tomorrow morning at 7AM so they can try to fix it. They hope it stored some codes even though it never gave me a wrench light or other trouble light that stayed on. Hopefully it's a just a software glitch or a faulty sensor.
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So my buddy was driving my truck and boat through Amarillo and suddeny had a buck/surge accompanied with black smoke. I left my torque app with him. Its throwing codes: P2287,2285, and P????(fault log got erased and I'm going from memory) concerning #8 cyl. I got there today and we noticed coolant leak on left side. Its small and I cant tell the source, but it is wetting the exhaust manifold on left side. Also now its blowing white, black, grey smoke. At idle its more white/ grey. Under load it mixes a little blck in. I only had time to check the ICP on torque and at idle its bouncing from 0.9 to 1.1. Unplugged ICP ran about the same. Still started and idled fine with white smoke. No oil in ICP or connector.
So I'm no expert but I think ive got a bad icp and something else going on. I didn't pull the egr valve and look so no idea on the cooler ,yup syill have the cooler. Degas has a small amount of white residue directly under the cap but no puking. Degas is just below the max line (on the sticker).
One other note only code originally was the 2287 last night. Now this am there was the other codes ref'd above.
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2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles runs good start easy but does not show oil pressure at idle (intermittent problem that has been occurring more often). It has ford oil filters and ford oil with about 3500 miles on the oil. The check gage will come on and the oil pressure drops out if you give it some throttle it comes back but will drop out again at idle. But like I said the truck runs perfectly fine and the icp shows pressure all the time.
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So I have this intermittent problem of the truck shutting down on its own when in idle or idling along in drive I immediately put the truck in N, turn the key and she starts right up again.
Does not do it at speeds, just in idle. The "check gage" and "battery" light are the only dash lights on after a shut down.
Where do I start?
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I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires an engine rebuild. I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed).
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Decided to try a new wheel to see if I can stop the surge during hill climbing with our 5er. Old wheel looked great with no dusting or nicks. New wheel sure has a whirl when it spools up, but sounds cool. Haven't pulled trailer since swap yet. Truck still only has 85k on the clock.
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I have an early 99 F-350 with 268K miles. It is bone stock right down to the factory exhaust. A couple months ago I started have a rough idle and surging while driving problem. I never got a check engine light but I borrowed a scan tool from a friend and pulled the following codes: P1690 (wastegate solenoid), P0381 (glow plug circuit malfunction), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution/Balance Fault.
I did some research and everything I read said it was most likely the CPS. So I changed the CPS. The truck ran fine for for a few days but then it started acting up again occasionally. I noticed that most of the time when it acted up was at start up when the engine was cold and I also figured out that if I shut the truck off and re-started it (sometimes I had to do it 2 or 3 times) it would clear up and run normal.
A buddy of mine that has a 2000 F-250 said he had a similar problem with his truck and it ended up being the ICP sensor. We switched his ICP with mine and I changed my oil at the same time (because it was due for an oil change). My truck ran flawless for over 2-weeks (over 200 miles) so I put a new ICP in my truck. Note: my buddy did not experience any problems with his truck with my ICP in it.
I've put about 700 miles on the new IPR and the truck has started to act up again. Once again shutting the truck off & re-starting it will clear it up and still no check engine light. I took it to a local "diesel specialty shop" while it was running rough and they hooked it to their scanner and got P1280 (Inj. Control Pressure Low), P1690 (Wastegate Solenoid Fault), P0381 (Glow Plug Indicator), P0269 Cylinder 3 Contribution / Balance Fault, and P0284 Cylinder 8 Contribution / Balance Fault.
They never did anything other than hook it to a machine & check the codes but their diagnosis is my High Pressure Oil Pump is going bad and my #3 and #8 injectors are going bad. They recommended I let them replace all 8 injectors and the High Pressure Oil Pump. The problem I have is they can't give me a REASONABLE explanation as to why re-starting the truck a few times clears up the problem.
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Was driving my truck normal, got to a stop and the truck staring to idle high and like stuck on third gear and also the tow light (over drive) started to flashing Is like the truck put it self on safe mod. Drove it back home but couldn't do more than 55 miles n hour so I didn't hurt the trans.
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I am working on an 2003 F-250 6.0l. The truck just died while driving. No restart. Plugged in my scan tool and I am not getting any High pressure oil. Is there anything other than the Hpop I should be looking at. I know it is a big job to replace the hpop so I don't want to overlook something simple.
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While driving my truck to work this morning, it completely died at 65mph. The radio and all electronics are still working. Coasted to a safe place to try and restart, but it won't turn over. The glow plug light stays on. Could this be an alternator problem or something more serious? I'm waiting for a tow truck. I'll see if there are any codes when I get it home.
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