2004 F250 6.0 and it's a no start. I have a snap on scanner and I did koeo test and it came up as inj circuit low for all 8 inj. I performed "the buzz test " and all inj click. The voltage on the scanner for the ficm is 52 and everything I read say that's more that enough. Where I should look?
View 1 RepliesI have been having trouble w my 04 I checked all fuses all relays all dash lights work, no buzzing on injectors when key turned on. I checked push pull plug for starter it turns over with direct to battery but still does not start. New computer on fender.
View 2 Replies2003 F250 6.0. We had our truck completely checked over by a diesel shop, and we spent $ in repairs on our 6.0 in June having a new high pressure oil injection pump put in, 1 new injector, new oil cooler, new EGR cooler, FCIM and a few other odds and ends. We had this done before leaving Michigan to spend 6 months on the road for my husband's job while pulling our 5th wheel. We were on the road for 6 hours, got to the middle of Pennsylvania, and every injector blows out of the engine all at once. One head is cracked, all injectors are burned, brand new oil pressure pump is destroyed, oil is pouring out of the turbo. The mechanic we were towed to says we got bad fuel that caused catastrophic failure and he proceeds to rebuild our engine. 2 injectors were so badly destroyed that they could not be rebuilt. We had the fuel tested by a lab and the lab says the fuel is fine. What would cause such a catastrophic failure like this?
View 14 RepliesI found some 04 injectors for a good price, will the work on my 06?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2007 f250 and got a check engine code icp circuit intermittent and to what I know icp sensor should be on the valve cover on the passenger side but it's not I bought the truck few months ago could it be that they swapped the engine for an early 6.0 or is there any other place for the icp sensor???
View 7 Replies06 6.0 F250 throwing code P0677 #7 glow plug circuit module. I don't think one bad plug would cause a no start, however coupled with too much oil possibly? Swapped my oil about 500 miles ago, I put in 20qts accidentally, drained off about 3-4 qts eyeballed, truck fired up and ran fine no smoke nothing. Yesterday morning I was leaving work and moved my truck from parking space to behind the bay at my fire station, I turned the engine off.
Loaded up my gear and turned the engine to the aux position and someone was talking to me so inlet it sit for a while in the auxiliary position. Went to crank no start, turned the key off then back on and it fired. Fast forward after 7 different starts throughout the day, I'm at dinner with my son we go to leave engine will not start at all, rolls and rolls and rolls nothing. Towed her home and scratching my head. Over filled oil with a bad plug cause no start??
Egr delete, new oil cooler, cat and muffler delete, upgraded Y turbo pipe. Also have an SCII throwing codes p0677 and p0401 egr code....
I have a 2007 f-250 6.0 liter turbo diesel. I was pulling a trailer with a golf kart on it and was not in tow haul. I was going up a hill and it shot up into 5th gear. I pulled into my house and shut it off and refired it and it acted fine. I went on a little test drive to see if it was going to do it again before I went on my trip. As soon as it shifted into third gear the tow haul light started to flash on my dash and went to 5th gear and would not down shift even if I did it on the column.
I scanned the truck with my snap on modus and it gave me these codes. P0706-transmission range sensor A circuit range/performance, P0707-transmission range sensor A circuit low input, and P1702-transmission range sensor circuit intermittent. I put a transmission harness in it and started it up and it ran fine and the codes were gone. I went for a test drive around the neighborhood and as soon as it hit 3rd gear it did the same thing as before. Today I put the old one back in and checked the codes so I could write them down and there weren't any so I went for a drive and it shifted through all the gears great and downshifted fine as well.
I pulled into my drive way to check for codes once again and there weren't any. I was gonna go for a ride in tow haul to see if it would do it and as soon I put the truck in reverse it started to idle high and the tow haul light started to flash again. I put it in drive to pull back into my drive way and it immediately shifted into 5th gear and threw the same codes...
I have 1 bad injector well it's missing when it's cold and two others that are "weak" I'm wondering what kind of job it would be to do by myself?
View 14 RepliesPowerstroke 6.0 no crank no start... 2004 Excursion. I cannot get any of scanners to connect to get any codes. I have the Autoenginuity Ford Package, scanguage II and another generic scanner. There is power to the diagnostic connector but there is no communication.
I have recently been having issues with rough running cold starts. Codes before this no crank event were 2285 ICP Sensor Low and 0528 fan speed sensor low and one for EGR which has been deleted. Just last weekend I had crank no start. I unplugged the ICP sensor and started and ran. I ordered a new OEM ICP sensor and pigtail and the truck sat until I received them.
Recent Work : I just replaced the ICP sensor and the pig tail. I soldered and heat shrank the wires rather than using the quick connects. I did find that after soldering the pigtail I found two wires shorted on the pigtail. Per the diagram on the 6.0 bible the a/b wires were shorted. I have corrected those. I also noticed that the top of the glow plug control connector has a broken clip. Not sure if there is a connection issue so I have tried to ensure that it is pushed in as far as it will go. I have another module somewhere I'll have to see if I can find it. Replaced glow plugs and harness about 6 months ago.
What have I done:
- Pulled access panel on FICM has 4 posts.
- FICM voltage 48v Key On.
- FICM voltage 46v cranking
Check the diagnostic connector can +/- (pins 6/14) and has resistance 122.1
I've check all the fuses and specifically:
#20 FICM
#22 Engine Control
I found one bad fuse #115 Trailer Tow Charge.
When trying to start Glow Plug light comes on but doesn't go out. The injectors are not initializing and the fuel pump doesn't seem to be running either. I have unplugged sensors ICP, EBP and FSS. Not sure what to test next. I'm considering pulling the ficm harness tomorrow to look for chaffing.
I think my starter took a s hit like I said truck randomly doesn't crank all lights on dash come on can hear injectors buzzing turn key nothing. Took wire off passenger's side of truck yellow wire touched to pos post solenoid click no crank. So I had the old lady sit in the drivers seat well I hit the starter with my BMFH started right up could something else cause this or should I just bite the bullet and replace the starter?
View 7 RepliesI bought my truck 2 month ago. I use it for commuting, only short trips now ( 10 min ). After about 2 weeks the Check Engine light came on. The truck is running fine, no problems I believe, starts easy. After another 2 weeks, the CEL disappeared. Another week, and the CEL came back on and it`s there since. I have a code reader, these are the codes and meanings according the manual:
P0299 - Turbocharger "A" underboost condition
P2286 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit high
P2287 - Injector control pressure sensor circuit intermittent
P0299 Pending - same as first but with "pending" status
This is my first diesel and my first turbo charged engine. Is this a common problem? How serious? It`s a bit strange that the error came up before but disappeared. Can that happen just because of the short trips I`m making? I`m planning a long trip soon with towing my trailer, so I want to make sure the truck will not break down during the ride.
My 2003 Ford F250 superduty diesel wouldn't start. It was a cool morning and I suspected a problem with the glow plugs. I checked the GPCM ( new in the last year) and it was fine, than I tested both right and left harnesses...they showed two out of range. After further inspection I noticed both my buss bars were completely rotted off with the wire and top of the glow plugs exposed.
Since I cranked the truck over so much, I removed the ground terminals from the recently replaced batteries and put a charger on overnight, I also plugged in the block heater since the glow plug system is suspect. I went out the next morning, re attached the batteries, and turned the key. The fuel pump and injectors cycled as usual, than I turned the key to start....nothing....no click...no sound.
I disconnected the starter trigger wire and touched it to the positive post.... a few sparks but no click or engagement. I jumped the solenoid...again a few sparks...but no engagement. I removed the starter (less than a year old, and not a lot of use) and had it bench tested, it tested fine. I re installed the starter, and cleaned all the terminals and connectors through the the system, still nothing.
I checked the cable from the battery to the large terminal...12 volts, I had my wife try to start the truck and checked where the trigger disconnects on the fender and at the solenoid....12 volts when the key is turned to the start position. I used a jumper cable to run power from the battery to the solenoid...nothing, I ran the jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter case...nothing. I checked all the fusible links and found a broken wire from chaffing, I repaired it ( but I think it was what was causing my battery light to come on for the last few months) even though the alternator, batteries and everything going else checked good.....nothing. I checked the starter relay...it checked out good, as well as the ignition fuse.
I have an 05 f250 6.0. We have started to reach 38 at night here in northern IL already. The trucks been having a rough time starting and it's not even that cold yet. Any recommendations on the truck that I can do to have easier starts. Sometimes cycling the glow plugs 4 5 6 7 times isn't enough to get her going. I plug it in most of the time on bitter days in the winter but sometimes I leave it parked where I cannot plug it in. The batteries seem just fine. I think one is a little weaker so I will get new batts.
View 6 RepliesThis is my first dual-bat vehicle. 2011 F250 with ~60K. Dual alternators. Bought in August of 2010. One battery(passenger side) was leaking pretty badly in ~2012 and was replaced under warranty along with the harness as it was corroded.
Yesterday, I drove the truck quite a bit on ~20-25 mile trips and left idling during a couple of them while inside Home Depot. No indication of any trouble.
Today, would not remote start, and when I put the key in and turned it to the on position, the dash lit up for about 3 seconds but once it started waking everything up, it all went dead. Start results in a faint click. I got 11.2V from a trusted meter. I've got my 20A charger hooked to one side right now.
Is there any special trick or attachment procedure to charge a dual battery setup? What about jumping off? Does one bad battery cause both to "act" bad? If I can determine which battery is causing the issue, am I safe to replace just that one, or should I get two new batteries?
I have replaced all the injector seals as well as the ball cup seals but when I crank the truck over after a few cranks I see oil bubbling up from the top of all the injectors. When looking at the injectors from the "top" side all looks well but when I use an inspection cam from down below I can see this happening. Any thoughts?
View 9 RepliesSo I replaced all the rings on my injectors . After putting them back in turned the engine over 5-7 times by hand with the glow plugs out. Then I turned it over with them out as well with the valve covers off. After than I installed everything back in. Now is my problem. I've turned it over 5 times and no luck. Not even on turn over. The oil light keeps coming on?? The indicator doesn't move up at all. It will go up and come down ? Is something wrong with the hpop? Should I keep cranking? Gotta to charge the batteries now..
2001 f250 7.3
My Excursion got 4 new injectors a couple weeks ago and when I got it back, it was running rough. My mechanic told me it was going to take about 100 miles for them to break in.
300 miles later and it is still running rough. So I opened the hood, took a look around and saw this wiring harness unplugged. Where it goes? Youtube video shows where the harness is [URL] ......
Also, my truck has been shaking violently at 50 miles per hour, unless I hit tow haul, then it is moved up to 60... I am assuming its connected some how to that wiring harness being disconnected.
I have an 04 ford 6.0. It is an 03 model. It has 165xxx miles. It fires right up cold but, once warmed up it will crank but not even try to start. A little starting fluid and it will fire right up. I sent the FICM in and had it tested and it is good. I put in new 850CCA batteries and a 185 amp alternator so my voltage is good. I changed the fuel filter and the oil/oil filter, synthetic 5w-30. It isn't throwing any codes. I am really hoping it's not the HPOP but, think it's probably that or related to it.
View 14 RepliesI have a bit of a quandary with my 6.0 and I'm wondering how it compares to others. If you have a hot or race tune (example: super panty dropper) on your 6.0 with stock injectors, what is the peak high pressure oil that you see at full throttle?
Need to know high pressure oil PSI @ full throttle, year (or better yet which style hpop you have if you know), if your ecu tune is a "race" tune, and if you have any FICM tuning.
I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2016 F350 disel with 2500 miles. It's at the dealer now they are telling me some metal shavings clogged one of the injectors. What should I be looking for?
View 14 Replies