Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - A/C Compressor Removal?
Feb 12, 2017
2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
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Lifting a crew cab on an 05 6.0 with out a shop lift? I'm going to replace the head gaskets and install studs. I have removed many regular cabs with a tractor front end loader and a 4x5 timber thru the windows.
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I posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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I want to remove the 60% portion of the rear seat (seat and seatback) in order to make some room for my dog on a long trip this summer and I don't need him fighting with my daughter for space on the seat. Removing the actual seat back is easy enough, but I want to disconnect the middle seat belt at the bottom. It appears to click into the piece that attaches to the truck floor, but I can't figure out how to release it. There is a small hole in the "thingy" (yes, that's the technical term for it ) that I assume would be related to the belt release, but I can't seem to get it to release.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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The clutch in my ac compressor is not releasing causing it stay on all the time and not cycle and get hot and freeze up the system. Also pulley seems to be angled like it's not sitting straight. Can I just replace the clutch on the front? if so what's all involved. I need to do the entire compressor?
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Ok so I have another issue. This is one of three right now. Had the truck flat bedded home due to a seized rear caliper. Carrier bearing is causing vibration, will replace that this weekend. My question is does the ac compressor spin even if the ac or heat isn't on? Mine wasn't spinning today when the truck was idling. Should it always spin and just not be "engaged " my ect was quite high too but I thought that was due to the locked up brake.
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Compressor continually clicks off and on..... No cold air.... Checked freon seems to be full.... Big line never gets cold?
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So the A/C compressor died on my truck. I am looking at replacing it myself and it looks rather tight in there. My labor manual says I have to pull the fan/fan clutch, fan shroud and right inner fender to gain access.
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Trying to replace my steering stabilizer and in the process I broke the nut close to the steering box. Would not budge so used a bar and well I broke it. Now I can't pop it out am I doing something wrong? Here are a few pics. I'm totally bummed nothing seems to be working for me.
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What is the secret to getting the rear center caps off a Dually Without scratching the hell out of them with the tire tool?
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Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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How to get the fender emblems off? I am talking about the F250 Lariat on the front fenders. I checked out the dealers schematics and it didn't work much.
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I bought some high temp anti-seize thread compound last week and had some free time to look at the EGT sensors last night. In a warm dry garage, the sensors are pretty easy to reach and so I had a go at wrenching them loose. They are tight. And they are knuckle busters when they break loose so be prepared.
The number three sensor (third from the front of truck) is close to the frame. Very close to the frame. And the frame has some sharp points along it's edge - knife sharp. A steel file (and two blood soaked band-aids later) the sharp points were gone and the EGT sensor threads prepped.
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We just got back from our first trip towing our 5'er. One of the things we encountered was the sun glare coming off the chromed air vent ring bezels. I am probably going to have them powder coated to stop the reflection. How to take the rings off the truck?
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How do you remove the front grill? I'm changing the bulbs in my headlights, and I know it's stupidly simple just can't remember how to do it.
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I am looking to mount a viair tank and compressor on my truck, I was thinking underneath on the frame. Have any pics?
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I have a small oil leak that is showing up under my turbo compressor housing. It's starting to show a little in the valley. Not a big leak, just not sure were the source is and would like you opinions and recommendations. I have been cleaning it up every few days, drive it then use a mirror and rag to try and locate the source.
Here are some pics, I hope I took some that are good enough. Unfortunately I cleaned up the oil before the pics, but I circled and marked the location.
Concerned about the turbo, but I don't understand this leak since it's not coming from the center section. The turbo drain pipe is new and it does not seem to be coming from there. The leak is not enough to show a change on the dipstick the last 3-4,000 miles as far as I can tell.
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