Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Rear Seatbelt Removal
Jun 6, 2014
I want to remove the 60% portion of the rear seat (seat and seatback) in order to make some room for my dog on a long trip this summer and I don't need him fighting with my daughter for space on the seat. Removing the actual seat back is easy enough, but I want to disconnect the middle seat belt at the bottom. It appears to click into the piece that attaches to the truck floor, but I can't figure out how to release it. There is a small hole in the "thingy" (yes, that's the technical term for it ) that I assume would be related to the belt release, but I can't seem to get it to release.
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What is the secret to getting the rear center caps off a Dually Without scratching the hell out of them with the tire tool?
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Lifting a crew cab on an 05 6.0 with out a shop lift? I'm going to replace the head gaskets and install studs. I have removed many regular cabs with a tractor front end loader and a 4x5 timber thru the windows.
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I posted about my steering issue and i went ahead and did the gear box and now on to the ujoints ...
HUB LOCK ASSEMBLY is in 2 i started to gently pry it out with a flat head in a star figure while jiggling and pulling the whole unit with my other hand well ...
The cover plate separated from the rest of the lock and I am lost ...
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What's the best way to remove front rotors from the hub without damaging them on my F350 4X4?
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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2005 F350 6 liter.
AC compressor clutch was toast. Thought it was just the clutch. Started to notice the truck struggling to start, with some smoke on acceleration that was not present before.
Today, paid a guy to replace my AC compressor clutch. He called me out a bit ago to show me what he found.
Looks like it was not the actual clutch. Looks like the bearing on the pulley took a crap. Bearings got wedged between the face of the pulley and the clutch. Mangled up the compressor clutch coil as well. The actual pulley, snapped off the bearing part. Pulley was only held on by the center bolt on the clutch hub. So, long story short, the compressor is locked up. Have to replace it.
This guy tells me he cannot do it, because to remove the compressor ,the motor has to be unbolted from the motor mounts and raised. Is this true? I have a service manual, that does not say anything about that at all. It does indicate that the compressor has to be removed with the third bolt loosened but still in place.
Can I get some info on the removal of the AC compressor in this truck? The idler/tensioner pulley has already been removed. The fan shroud has been removed.
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I want to get rid of the stock exhaust and run a 4' or 5' exhaust all the way back. Will I still need to use DEF? Completely remove the whole system.
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Trying to replace my steering stabilizer and in the process I broke the nut close to the steering box. Would not budge so used a bar and well I broke it. Now I can't pop it out am I doing something wrong? Here are a few pics. I'm totally bummed nothing seems to be working for me.
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Removing the radiator on these trucks to repair the leak? It looks pretty straight forward. Remove the fluid, grill, hoses, and the few screws on each side that connect the other cooling coils to the main radiator. then hopefully it should slide straight up and out. A radiator shop said they would replace the gasket between the plastic end caps and the radiator if I take it to them. Which brings me to my next question. Is it the gasket that is causing this notorious leak or is it a crack somewhere or a loose crimp? Mine is leaking from the usual spot. Driver side on the bottom at the seam. Then runs down the frame to the ground.
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How to get the fender emblems off? I am talking about the F250 Lariat on the front fenders. I checked out the dealers schematics and it didn't work much.
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I bought some high temp anti-seize thread compound last week and had some free time to look at the EGT sensors last night. In a warm dry garage, the sensors are pretty easy to reach and so I had a go at wrenching them loose. They are tight. And they are knuckle busters when they break loose so be prepared.
The number three sensor (third from the front of truck) is close to the frame. Very close to the frame. And the frame has some sharp points along it's edge - knife sharp. A steel file (and two blood soaked band-aids later) the sharp points were gone and the EGT sensor threads prepped.
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We just got back from our first trip towing our 5'er. One of the things we encountered was the sun glare coming off the chromed air vent ring bezels. I am probably going to have them powder coated to stop the reflection. How to take the rings off the truck?
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How do you remove the front grill? I'm changing the bulbs in my headlights, and I know it's stupidly simple just can't remember how to do it.
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I figured I would try my hand at making a video because I find them useful.. Anyway, if you plan on dropping the DEF tank and /or replacing the heater/sending unit.
2011 -2014 Ford DEF tank removal / sending unit replacement - YouTube
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I've pulled the fuel lines and disconnected all the electric plugs. I don't seem to be able to remove the unit as the 4x4 drive shaft is in preventing me from full removal. Is this possible? Do I have to remove the drive shaft? Very frustrating as this should have been a 15 minute or less job. A video would be useful, but all my searches show only two wheel drive removal.
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Having trouble figuring out how to remove the rear fuel line from the fuel pump. Doesn't seem to be the type that uses the quick disconnect tool like the front line does.
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I know that to remove the lower knee panel under the steering wheel all that has to be done is to pull it off and the attachment snaps will pop free. However, How do I go about removal of the dash panel to the left of the steering wheel? This would be the narrow panel that also houses an ac vent, headlight and I believe it is the adjustable pedal control.
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Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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Looking for how to's out there on how to get all of the fan shrouding removed? I am trying to do my idler and tensioner pulley bearings and those shrouds really make it tough.
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I currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
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