Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2005 - EATC - No Air Out Of Dash Vents
May 30, 2012
My buddy's '05 will not blow out of the dash vents, you can make the a/c blow out the defrost or the floor but no dash. Vacuum pump is working great, rarely ever kicks on and doesn't seem to be leaking anywhere in the system that I can tell yet. Pulling a vacuum on the red line will make it start blowing out the vents so the door is functioning.
I thought maybe I had narrowed it down to the ATC solenoid and manifold (Ford part #5c3z-19d611-aa) not working properly but found that the F-150 guys having problems with the o-rings on the back of the control head. Seems they replace the 4 o-rings and all is well, cheap easy fix. Are the units on the diesel set up that way too?
A quick search for EATC problems on the diesels didn't bring up much, seems they don't tend to fail. He's wanting to sell it and asked if I could try and fix the problem. It's been about a year since I last looked at it, so my recollection might be a bit foggy.
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I recently installed an egr delete and ever since, my vents have been stuck to the upper dash no matter which setting I put on. The vent will push the air conditioning, regular air and heat all the same. I have checked the fuses and they are all good.
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2002 - 7.3 lariat, my a/c stays on max because of the recirculating effect. When I get in the next morning during summer of course, my dash vents take a few seconds to begin, default defrost till that time passes. Sure I know about leaks and redone all that to make my vacuum hubs work correctly. It didn't begin till later not right after that overhaul.
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The floor and defrost vents work. It just stays on defrost when you try to use the dash vents. The actuator seems to be working fine. I can watch the arm move through all the motions. and I cant find ANY vacuum leaks. Yes I looked at the hubs and under the hood. May be moving to alaska and kind of need my heater to work properly. . . .
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I have '05 F250 King Ranch with EATC. I outside air temp doesn't update, it remains constant at the initial reading at start up. I have run the self test routine and the fault detect routine with no problems identified. The funny part is that after exiting the self test routines the outside temp seems to update normally, but after an ignition off time the problem returns. All other parts of the ETAC seem to be functioning normally.
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No matter what I do with the settings for my heater in my lariat air only blows out of the dash vents. Defrost and floor vents don't work it still blows hot air out of the dash vents. I'm not sure what the deal is maybe the vacuum system? I did a search and all I could find was people having trouble with air ONLY blowing out of the defroster and my case is just the opposite.
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This is the it's always something post. Alternator rebuilt to 185. Batteries tested by AAA. When I went into the truck tonight the door locks made a clicking sound like the battery was going dead. Truck fired right up at 0 degrees.
I just installed WARN locking hubs and now I only have a defroster blower that works. Is there anything else besides a vacuum leak that might cause that?
6 CD Player has had problems loading and unloading for a few years but now it just says initializing and goes right back to radio.
I am really regretting doing the right thing two weeks ago and not letting this truck burn when it caught on fire on the Turnpike.
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I have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
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Ive changed all relays underhood cause i could not find info on which relay is which, checked all fuses under dash. Checked to make sure up stream on 4x4 fuse position has power. And i checked for power at 2 wire on transcase no power at 2 wire, i am also finding no power at back of dashswitch.. Looking for a wiring diagram that shows complete esof schematic
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Stopped at the store, came out, started truck, ran for two seconds, shut off, hasn't run since,had no codes,or any other issues. I have checked all the fuses,breakers,main power supply off of passenger battery, still nothing. I have head and taillights, power points on dash, dome lights, chime for headlights. 79674 miles.
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I am looking for a source for switched power under the dash. I am going to wire up power to my TST507 TPMS but I would like to have switched power. I have a bundle of wires all capped off under there but no idea if any are switched power. I thought I would ask before trying to probe each and every one.
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Got a Decreased Power message across the dash info center today and was limited to only around 5lbs boost. I stopped and pulled the codes and here is what I found:
P054E - Fuel Quantity lower than expected
P1249
P1247
P0471 - Exhaust pressure sensor range/performance
P02D7 - Injector learning @ max
P0402 - EGR flow excessive detected
I dumped the trailer and limped home to change the fuel filters. I could only go 35mph on the flats and 10mph on any kind of up hill slope. I switched out the filters, purged the air, fired her up and cleared the codes, all seemed well. I backed out and went for a test lap around the neighborhood, as soon as I turned the corner and rolled on the throttle and reached 35 the message came back and the codes returned. I will be towing it in to the dealer tomorrow for diagnostics.
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2015 F350 6.7L, 43,000miles
My family and I were driving into West Virginia this morning when the reduced engine power message came up on the dash and the truck died. I coasted off to the side of the road as best I could and got out. Immediately I smell diesel fuel. I look under the truck and there is fuel all over the passengers side frame and when I keyed it back up fuel started spraying down by the right front wheel.
Pulled the fender liner back and saw a small rubber hose that looks like it came off of a tee fitting down by the egr components. I tried to get it back on but wasn't able to get it seated 100% and when I tried to restart it blew off again. Truck is completely stock and ran perfect right up until it died.
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Simple question for the group as I learn about my new B.O.A.T 6.0 diesel.
What is that blue light left of the steering column yet on the dash?
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I finally have the OBD II reader and running the Dash command on an iPhone 5s. I have downloaded the Ford Super duty 6.7 Skin for the dashboard. It seams to be reading most information but It will not give me the exhaust gas temperature. Not only that, I am still trying to set up some gauges with difficulty. Is there something else I should be doing or setting for this reading. Or is there a different Apple app that I should be using?
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I found out by accident that my vacuum pump is now running all the time. It's not the gray line to the heater valve and it's not the vacuum canister as I already checked the easy stuff. I need some direction where to start looking under the dash as I have never been under that part of my truck. Any common issues or where to look?
More information: The pump only runs all the time when the HVAC control is set to OFF or MAX AC.
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2004 f350. Trucks starts, runs, normal. But just noticed the gauges are not moving. Speedo stuck at 50, tach is at idle. Lights up just fine.
Have a code for the fuel sender, had that issue for awhile now, but also have u1262.
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Our 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.
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I painted the senser on the dash black on the inside so the headlights stay on all the time. My question is the dash lights don't stay on all the time, I assumed they would with the headlights on and senser cover painted, drives me nuts with the dash lights coming on and off. How to make dash lights stay on.
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I have a 2006 Super Duty 6.0L, and I'm what are the two temperature gauges on the right side of the dash are? I'm sure one is engine temp, but what is the other one? Also, which gauge is which (in terms of top/bottom)?
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Recently, we took a trip pulling our 5th wheel, even after suspecting another stuck unison ring, sticking turbo issue. When Climbing a gradual grade, we had the "wrench" light come on the dash. The truck seemed to go into the "limp" mode. I pulled over, let the turbo cool down for a minute, and then shut off the engine.
I let it sit for a minute, knowing we were on the freeway shoulder, restarted it without clearing any codes, and it started up without the wrench lit. No limp mode and continued home. I did this twice throughout the trip. I then tried to pull and OBD codes and found none such as a P0299. Seems like there should have been a code saved to evaluate the issue.
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