Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F250 Misfire / Engine Started Missing Out And Vibrating Very Bad
May 31, 2017
I've got an issue with my truck, I was towing home my camper this weekend and my engine started missing out and vibrating very bad, then it overheated... pulled over and check codes, p0263, p0299, p0300, p0301. Oil all over engine, tons of blow by, definitely a dead miss on cylinder 1. Smokes bad out of exhaust, zero power, and blows cap off of oil filler when loose, tons of smoke and oil from ccv.
My question is, could it be in the valve train? Or is it going to lie in the piston/rings? Blown head gasket? It did overheat, but didn't puke out of bottle, turbo timer kept it running for a bit after I shut it down roadside, egts were definitely high. Also the egr is deleted, have a predator programmer with custom tune for she delete.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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Just bought a 2006 F250 with 6.0. A week or so ago, it surged once at idle at a light. Sort of felt like someone bumped into your rear. It has gotten more frequent over the last week or so. Now it does it often. It tends to rev up and then back down again over and over. Then it will clear up again. My brother said his 7.3 used to have a similar problem (as did quite a few others apprently) and it was the Cam positioning sensor (CPS). Where is it located?
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So, on my way home from checking out a house all of a sudden the truck started vibrating when getting on the highway. Then it got worse quickly. So I pulled off at the next exit and pulled into a parking lot, the truck shuddering badly any time I pressed the fuel pedal. Had it towed to my local Ford dealer. I'm thinking torque converter/transmission, but I freely admit I don't know. Here's what I think is pertinent info-
1. I bought it at 84k miles, now 122k. Oil changed every 5k, fuel filters every 10k, coolant every 20k, trans fluid every 20k. Don't kmow what was done first 84k miles before I bought it.
2. Driveshaft rebuilt one year ago. Both fr and rr diff fluids changed a few months ago, along with transfer case fluid.
3. When in park or neutral engine revs perfectly smooth. When placed in gear and fuel is added it starts to shudder, getting worse as revs go up. Does not vary with road speed, only with engine speed and load into transmission.
4. There are no codes at all. All temps were normal. Engine oil and trans fluid level normal.
5. A few months ago when coming home from a trip I suddenly had the same symptoms about 3 miles from home, but not as bad as today. Made it home taking it easy and went to bed. I was exhausted from a long day of driving and when I test drove the truck the next morning to check it out it was smooth as could be, so I thought maybe I imagined it. Symptoms did not reappear until today, a few months and several thousand miles later.
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Well, I last summer my fuel filter/ pump started squealing, and making vibrating noise, replaced the fuel filter changed the noise slightly, some times it would go away, sometimes the line going to the filter under the hood would vibrate, couple weeks ago truck warning light came on- "low fuel pressure warning" came on, hum... went out, came on a couple days later, then finally put me into limp mode, luckly only 1/2 mile from home... checked filter on frame/ tightness, it was tight, the pump on the filter housing was very noisey still, well, I figured 200 dollars cheaper than taking to ford....
I waited and pump arrived 3 days later, replaced it and low pressure warning still on, but pump was very quiet, and when I restarted low pressure warning and reduced power came on in driveway, hum.... I thought code was still in computer, I disconnected battery and turned headlights on to try and kill the code, started it and now the engine light came on, nothing else, and truck ran fine....hum.... went to autozone, and they pulled the code, low fuel rail pressure, p0087, guy said to drive and code should go off, truck runs fine. Drove truck a couple days and engine light went off, Truck runs great.......All is good.
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So I have been fighting a rough running, missing problem. My truck started running rough one day on the way home. I got it scanned, it showed injector contribution balance 1&2. Made sense to me that it threw those codes. I replaced 1 and 2 with oem replacements. Got that all done, truck still ran like crap. I changed fuel filter with motorcraft ones and drained the water separator. That didn't work. I am getting it scanned again, so i will have codes shortly.
Also, for a while it would run with absolute no problem. It was intermittent like that. Run bad run bad run bad and then one day run flawlessly. I though it was electrical. Checked all the common places for chaffing, saw nothing. Even did the wiggle test while it was running, no change. But it hasn't been intermittent for a while now.
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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I have a 2006 f-250 6.0. About 2-ish months ago, it started revving up while I was parked and hooking up a trailer. It ended up needing an ICP sensor and pigtail wires. Was fine after that until around 10 days ago, it died when I was driving down the road and wouldn't start back up. That time it was the IPR. Got it back Friday, drove home (40 min) and didn't need to drive it until today. I fired it up, and we're back to the revving/surging. I decided not to take it on the road, really tired of being stranded. Could it be the icp again? Something else? I'm so tied of throwing money at this thing.
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I am looking for answers on a 2006 F250 with a 6.0, at a little over 200,000 miles. Currently I have taken it to two separate dealerships in the area with absolutely no results. The truck drives fine, starts fine, and for the most part, runs great. Except when it dies. It dies with no warning, at anytime. Warm, hot, cold, on the interstate, back road, driveway, where ever. It doesn't stutter, miss or signal, just quits running. Both dealerships have kept it for weeks, and driven it daily, and of course, then it never skips a beat. No codes have showed up that would cause the stall, and they are baffled.
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just overhauled my 6.0. run great for about 3 days now runs really rough when cold. new heads injectors rings pistons ficm fuel pump icp sensor ipr valve fuel pressure is good. Engine rolls smoothly when cold also.
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Truck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
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I have a 2006 f250 with 120k. I am having trouble getting the water in fuel light off. I drainned the water out and replaced both filters and the fuel water sensor. The check engine light is now on and the water in fuel light is as well. I'm stumped and can't figure out what to do next. Will the check engine light come on as well with the water in fuel light or is it two different problems?
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To start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
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While driving home the other night at highway speed my truck lost power. I just filled the tank about 15 miles before then and everything was running fine. No lights came on the dash before the truck died and now can't get it started. Bad fuel? Clogged filter?
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2003 F250 crew cab 6.0 ... Where are the main problem areas on the ficm wiring harness truck will start and run great at times and at times it just start and misfire lope jump and buck it has to be a short I've changed the icp and crank / cam sensors some days it runs fine had issue with alternator replaced it.
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I have a 06 f250 with 135k that I keep getting a #2 contribution code. Power balance shows cylinder 2 low as well. No circuit codes and everything sounds good on a buzz test. Valvetrain is actuating as expected. I changed all 8 injectors w/ motorcraft with no luck. I get over 300 psi on a compression test ( 175 psi on 1st stroke then maxed my gauge on the 2nd). It smokes until I disable cylinder 2 then it pretty much clears up. I did notice I could move the top of the valve stems about 1/16", this seems really sloppy. Very little blow by and the oil cap stays on up side down until it rattles off. Any other 8 deal other than pulling the heads? I just bought this truck and have little history on it.
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I have an 03 6.0 F250. My truck started blowing fuse #45 and it would kill my gauges (fuel, oil, mph, rpm, temp, trans temp, and odometer) and I was just replacing the fuse and putting off the repair.
However, the most recent time my gauges blew, the fuse did not, and I put in a 20 amp fuse, in hopes that it would not blow so quickly, bad idea. So naturally, I ordered a new shift lever, in hopes that it would fix the gauges and I wouldn't have to deal with it anymore, but I think it was too late and something else needs to be replaced. What I could possibly have blown by having a larger fuse in there?
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Went out to start my truck this morning and it wouldn't start. Cranks fine and almost started once but died. Checked all fuses all my voltages are good. Oil and coolant are good. When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump and sounds like it's priming correctly. Might be an issue with a clogged fuel filter? Maybe? Haven't had any problems or issues otherwise.
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My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
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I have a 2006 F250 King Ranch 6.0. At approx 45-50 mph when holding accelerator steady, there is a slight jerking like the engine is missing like the old gassers used to do. What could cause this? Have a ScangaugeII and doesn't show anything out of the ordinary!
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