Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Long Crank Time
Oct 4, 2015
I have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
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So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
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I recently (in the last few months) have noticed my truck (1999 F350 duallie) seeming to be running very rich … I pull a 32' trailer with it and noticed on the art few trips the front and right side of the trailer covered with diesel fuel spots when I got home …. It also smells very rich when idling…. The last couple times I started it in the mornings it seems to crank a very long time before it starts …it still runs but its got issues evidently … it has these 3 codes :
P1280
P0475
P1670
The 1670 will clear , but the other 2 I can't clear, they are right back every time you turn the key on …
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Removed my oil rail to replace standpipes/dummies (04 Wavy rail) and now I have huge crank times to start. This is after the initial Huge crank to get it started. Do I have air in the system, or did I bugger something. I did the whole deal very careful. I lifted the rail up very carefully, pipes removed. I lined up the rail nipples with the injectors and evenly pressed it back in place, and then inserted my dummies/standpipe. Tightened the rail to 120 inch lbs then the dummies/standpipe to 60 ft lb. I did my son's '06 a month ago with no troubles. (didn't remove rails though). Once running it sounds perfect, turn it off and re-start and it's a long crank (30 seconds or more). I have not monitored ICP/IPR while running, will try that today.
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The past couple of cold starts (not real cold mornings though) I have experienced long crank time to start. Once started she starts normally. No time to read but I'm getting a little worried that I'll get stuck somewhere. I'll check back with my phone when I get into an area with cel service.
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
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My 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.
Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.
A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.
Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.
Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I'm having a long crank cold start issue. It takes about 2 five second cranks before the truck will start up. It just started acting this way yesterday before I fired it up to go to school. After its warm it fires up no problem the rest of the day, just takes a bump of the key.
I don't think it's the GP system as this truck has started at -20 to -25C all winter long unplugged with no issues. From my reading some sources say that it could be a HPOP leak, maybe dummy plugs?
Is there any way for me to do some more diagnosing - places to look or test for? There are no stored codes other than an EGR code due to the delete. Truck is completely stock with atlas 40.
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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OK here we go it all started with a long crank and now no fire. I changed cam sensor wiggled wires got to fire , shut off than nothing . Changed wire from cam sensor to about 6" from ecu found small nick in wire. Swapped ecu no good... I am getting my numbers from torque app.
ficm sync = 0
RPm = 172
FLP = 12
fmp =49
Hpop = 1823 max
Ipr = 80.9 max stready at 48
ipr volt =.02 at rest
Also tested fuel pressure at filter 80 psi ( blue spring)
ficm sent to ficm repair, tested good
cam sensor changed , pig tail also
bubble test on fuel filter no thing there
So any thing else to check or am i looking at a harness change?
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
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Long crank to start hot and cold. Acts like missing when its cold tho and when it warms up it runs ok but it will set code weafher warm or cold and u can turn it out with scan tool and drive and it wont come back till restarted again...
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6.0 has had dummy plugs and stand pipes replaced and still has a long crank when cold. The kicker is that it doesn't happen when the truck is parked nose up in the driveway. It only happens if the truck is level or back into the driveway. I suspect it's that the HPOP is losing prime from somewhere.
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I need to get my oil cooler replaced but that's besides the fact. I drove it on a little trip the other night ran fine. Then went to start it after i was done with what i was doing turned it over didn't start the first time. Cycled the key and cranked it again. Started up drove it back home on the high way no spitting or sputters got off the high way it started idling like crap and shaking as i accelerated but made it home. Let it sit over night and day (was at work) got home to start it and it fired up no problem but still idled funny.
Revved it a couple times and it seemed to clear up so i took it around the block. Floored it and it ran like it was suppose to then go to the other side of the block floored it again and it had no power and sounded like it was running on 4 cylinders. Pulled it back in the driveway idled weird and cleared up again went down the street and floored it ran like a scaled ape and then just died. tried cranking it over and nothing finally got it to start after holding the ignition on ran and then died again. Got it pushed home and decided to fire again after a VERY long crank and it idled for a couple minutes very horrible and died on its own and hasn't started since.
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As the title says I am suddenly having a long crank when starting and low oil pressure when when warm (above approximately 100 degrees). IPR goes to 85% when cranking. Stored codes were P2290 and P2291. Other symptoms are low power and what sounds like a power steering pump with low oil whine and low power. (It is not power steering related however, I checked.) I pulled the oil filter and cranked engine and filter bowl filled in less than 10 seconds.
Oil did have a fair bit of air bubbles. Oil has 5000 miles and is Motorcraft 10w30 diesel. I have not added any since the last change. I do not have the new style pump so it's not the STC fitting. What my issue is? I do have AE if any other info is required. Particulars are in sig. The searches I have done combined with the mileage I have lead me to either the low pressure pump is failing, or the high pressure pump has lost the ball bearing out of the side.
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A/C takes a long time to start cooling, but after it starts it gets as cold as it should. Seems to do okay while highway driving after it starts cooling. Is this a low refrig problem or do I have bigger issues?
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About a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
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03' F350 Crew Cab DRW FX4 Lariat 6.0
180k miles
Has EGR Delete
Blue Spring Kit and recent Fuel Filter Kit
Last Friday I got the truck back from a local mechanic that had replaced the water pump. Took it out to put fuel in it last night. About a mile from the house it felt like it bucked then died. While still rolling I stuck it in Neutral and started it back up. Got fuel and back home, no problem. Total trip around 4 miles.
This morning I get about a mile from home (other direction) and it does the same, engine quits and it rolls to a stop. Except now it won't crank. Has electric power, just won't turn over. Both batteries are pretty new Napa big CCA ( I believe 800 ).
I walk back home and get my '04 F250 6.0 (180k also) and drive back to the stricken 350. Thinking a battery may have crashed a cell I remove the ground from one battery and jump it off with the 250. No difference. Reconnected battery #1 and Disconnected battery #2 ... Same thing, no crank.
I didn't really think it was a battery issue since it started fine, but if one of them had crashed a cell it could have shorted. No dice.
Now I'm thinking it may be the fuel pump. Would not having line pressure keep it from at least cranking? IE like a safety feature so the injectors don't try and run dry?
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