Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 F350 - Loss Of Power When Towing Up Grades
May 5, 2017
My dad recently bought 2006 6.0. He has had it about 2 and half months. Has the egr delete kit installed. The truck has ran great. Up until Wednesday the 3rd. My dad headed to Ut to pick up our new quads. While heading up a small grade with empty trailer in tow. Truck went to limp mode, fan kicked on, orange wrench came on on dash board. He pulled over let her cool down turned her off.
Checked fluids Then started her back up and she was fine. That has happened 3 times. Now he is on his way back (tow haul mode turned on) and it is doing it again. She hasn't went into limp mode yet. As soon as the fan kicks in my dad pulls over immediately and puts it in park. And lets her cool down checks fluids. This issue only happens mid way up a grade. So my question is...... What is causing this? How do we fix her and make her a happy truck again.
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On my 2005 F350 Super duty 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel I have extremely high oil temps when towing and also have a warm start problem. I need to tackle both these problems at the same time but I am struggling to find the correct (and still affordable) parts for this. My local parts store and Ford dealer are way over priced.
First, I need an oil cooler (truck has an EGR delete so no EGR cooler).
Second, I want to replace all the seals in the high pressure oil system and replace the HPOP elbow.(Already replaced IPR)
Third, I would like to do the Blue Spring update as well while I am in there.
Looking for part numbers or kits numbers. I usually do all my own research but right now I am way too swamped at work and home to find these parts.
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My uncle was pulling his fiver to the beach yesterday with his 2011 f-350 6.7. He lost power, the truck got very loud, and there is a very strong stale kerosene smell in the cab. Strong enough to require the windows be down for ventilation. He was able to limp on into the campground and has an appointment with the dealership Monday. The truck has 19,000 miles and is still covered under the extended warranty.
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I have a 2007 F350 6.0 Diesel. Truck starts and runs great for about 10 miles and then loses power and slows down til it dies, it does this without any kind of warning and does not rattle or anything. If i let it sit for about 15 min it will start right up and drive fine for another 10 miles or so and do the same thing.
It did the same thing in December but would not restart at all and the ficm was the cause at that time so i went ahead and replaced the ficm just to eliminate it. I also replaced the fuel pump and the ipr and icp valves are good. The only engine code has to do with the fuel level sensor and that has been on for a year. The egr was recently replaced, the hpop is putting out the psi that it is supposed to and there are not any internal air leaks.
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I just bought a 2004 F350 6.0 cclb 6 speed with 260k on it. The previous owner seemed to have taken good care of the truck. It is basically stock with the exception of the blue spring mod, and a sinister diesel coolant filter. Anyways, I brought the truck home and it ran great. Now I have an issue that needs to be addressed.
The issue: I am experiencing a intermittent loss of power, stall, or stumble when engine is cold. After sitting all night the truck will start fine and idle fine. But when I try to accelerate and bring engine RPM up the engine will stumble and lose all throttle response, when this happens the WTS and WIF light flash. Sometimes it just stumbles, sometimes the truck will actually die and then restart. The issue seems to go away after the engine has reached operating temp.
I did some research on the issue and it seems there is actually a TSB out from ford for this issue. It explains that some 2003-2004 6.0's might have wiring harness chaffing issues. This is what the issue I am having seems like to me (shorting harness). I looked up codes on the truck and there is an active code (#8 glow plug circuit fault). I did a short visual inspection of harness and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. But i wonder if it would be worth changing both sides of the glow plug harness?
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I have an 06 F-250 with 122,000 miles. When driving empty at 70-75 mph the coolant temp runs 194-200 and the oil temp 5 to 10 degrees higher at the most. When I pull my travel trailer the coolant temperature will start to steadily climb then abruptly drop down under 200. I have seen the coolant temperature pass the oil temperature when this happens.
The last time I pulled the trailer I was driving at 60 mph and the coolant temperature climbed to 220 then dropped to 196. A few miles later it climbed to 230 then dropped to 200. While the temperature was climbing I slowed to about 45 mph. As it was dropping I accelerated and the temperature continued to drop.
I have flushed the cooling system, replaced the thermostat and cap with no improvement.
The pickup has an SCT tuner set to street 1 and I was told by the previous owner that the egr was deleted, but the stock egr cooler is in place. It is possible that a plug was put in. I pulled the egr valve and the carbon coating on it is gooey like it has been wet.
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I pulled with my 2000 F250 7.3 for the first time yesterday pulling a 12,500 5th wheel and then again today with an 18 ft ski boat weighting around 3500 for both the trailer and boat. I had this same issue pulling both.
Today when pulling the boat/trailer i was behind a slow moving truck and when we hit a hill with a passing lane i merged over and wanted to start passing him. We started off at around 45 mph up the hill and as I started pushing the pedal I wasn't gaining any speed and my rpm's didn't even get over 1500. It felt like a stall and continued that at around 45-50 mph up the hill (about a 65 degree slope). When I'm not towing the truck runs great, plenty of power and averaging around 16 1/2 mpg.
Only mods i have is a 6647 Napa filter, muffler delete and it's running the same 4 position TS tuner from the original owner. During normal operation I run it at the 75hp gain and when towing i use the 50hp gain.
In both instances i could see black smoke coming from exhaust when pushing the pedal but my rpm's wouldn't go up and truck maintained the slow speed going up the hill. Once at the top it drove normal and picked up speed without any problems.
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I have a 2006 f250 bulletproofed for about 5 years now with no problems other than normal wear and tear. I had the factory water pump go out a couple months ago so I decided to go with the bulletproof diesel pump for piece of mind now I do tow anywhere from 8K-15K about once a week with custom Gearhead tunes using SCT.
While I was changing water pump, I ordered low temp thermostat figured it would work with towing temps even though they weren't that bad to begin with my deltas always around 10-128.. Now i am seeing signs of puking out degas bottle, I replaced cap seems to work a little the truck doesn't puke unloaded unless i really get down on it.
I noticed the other day while towing I was cruising with TC locked in at around 55 mph and i watched my EOT 210* and ECT 205*, the n ECT started climbing up followed by EOT then at ECT 222* fan came on ECT finally hit 234* and started dropping fast while EOT never got over 226*. ECT would level out at 188* go back up to 205* and stay there for awhile and do it all over again...
What is going on. I've talked to a could mechanics and they aren't confident its the HG..
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I have a 2006 F-250 Super Duty Diesel that I just purchased. Of course there is no warranty and of course I am not that familiar with trucks or cars for that matter. I bought this to tow our 29 ft trailer, which weighs roughly 7000 and should be no problem for the truck. The first 5 times we took it out everything was good and then we took it out and had a short but steep incline and the truck started over heating.
After unhitching the trailer, I drove the truck again and it runs great, no overheating. I even went to the same hill and everything was fine. So, I took the trailer out again and the same thing happened. What this could be? Since I am so unfamiliar with mechanics of things, I really don't want to get ripped off. I have read the troubles with the engine but don't want to spend the 6-8k to rebuild if not necessary.
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Towing a 5th wheel at about 10,000 lbs total. Towards the end of out 9 hour trip home and going upgrade the truck begins to loos power and the engine starts making some bad sounds. Although its hard to hear it starts about 45 seconds in and continues later when going uphill. the truck also made a very high pitched squealing/scraping sound (not a belt) like it may have been coming from the turbo. Oil temp was about 220, trans temp at 170 at the time of the event.
Truck has 216k, stock, upgraded trans cooler, original fuel pump.
Here is the video : YouTube.....
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I just bought a 2001 F350 diesel with 120k miles on it a couple weeks ago. Friday I headed out to Oregon with my 16 foot enclosed trailer filled with jet skis (about 4-5k pounds) for a competition. A few minutes after being on the freeway I noticed the truck did not have good power. About 30 min later while climbing a steep grade the truck almost went dead.
I started at 60mph and by the time I got to the top i was at 15mph with the throttle pinned. the motor sounded funny and shook the truck more then normal. After wards on the down side of the grade the truck started to act normal. I took it to my buddies house and switched trucks because I didn't trust if for the 13 hour drive.
Today I talked to a mechanic at the dealership and he said that it sounded like injector o-rings to him. I went home, pulled the valve covers and started the motor to see if anything is leaking. steam was coming from the valve area and the down spouts on the injectors was flowing oil. The thing that looked especially abnormal was one of the injectors looked like fuel was dribbling from it. I don't know if that is a problem or not. I couldn't tell if it was fuel or oil but no other injectors had fluid coming out near the wire connections.
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So this '06 F350 is blowing fluid from the steering pump fitting when you move steering wheel to either side all the way(lock). Is the internal o-ring blown in the fitting? Do these have the teflon seal at the pump? Pretty new to the 6.0 scene. Got a new line ordered.
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I have a 06 f350 superduty with a 6.0 I have had injector problems before with the motor even hydro locking no start this is the problem my truck started blowing white smoke with a strong diesel smell everyone said it was oil cooler but I took it to a ford garage the guy said I had 2 injectors hung open and wasn't hydro locking and suggested to put all 8 in so I did 3400.00 not I went to pick it up had no power at all turbo was not kicking in so I took it right back to them they checked it out said turbo was sticking had to clean it it would take 6 hrs. said the fuel In the motor caused it it was working fine when I took it to them now they say maybe a new turbo are they giving me the run around or is this possible....
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I have a 2006 f350 4x4 dually 6.0. The other morning when leaving for work I hard a loud air noise, like a jet. It only happens when the motor is trying to create boost. I have NO boost. No smoke. If I push the fuel pedal past 1/4, nothing. Its like its stuck and no more power at all. I have changed the boot from the turbo to the intercooler pipe. (looked like it had cracks in it). Checked the cold pipe, no cracks seen. Check the exhaust clamps, into the turbo, they are tight. The turbo is seeping oil around the seal. I took the inlet, fresh air, pipe off. Check the turbo spool for looseness, fins, spun the wheel, ran the engine and watch to wheel. Seen no issues. Where to go now?? No coolant leaks, no oil leaks.
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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I would like the hear what others have to say about the problems I'm having with my 2006 F-350 sd xlt 6.0 with 113,000 miles on it. It's being used as a tool truck mostly going from a shop on the property to close by buildings on the same property. In other words very short distances. Used occasionally to take a dump trailer to a close by dumping ground.
1. White smoke from exhaust. I've read this is most likely an ERG cooler that needs replacing. Any other possible causes? If I end up having to replace the cooler is there a stock cooler that is reliable or should I get the one by bullet proof?
2. Diesel is dripping from the muffler weep hole. Last full tank lasted only 60 miles. Could this be the oil cooler? Anything else? If so is the Ford replacement cooler OK or should I go with an upgraded cooler?
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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This truck is bone stock FYI. I get in it to crank it and I get nothing. Batteries are good, everything in the cluster lights up, and looks normal. No codes are thrown. I can hear the solenoids click under the dash and hood. I check the voltage of ignition cable at the starter and I get no reading.
There is a single thick yellow with light blue stripe coloured wire on the passenger side of the engine compartment, beside the vacuum pump with a "squeeze and pull" type disconnect. Disconnect it, and connect the male half of the connector to the passenger side battery positive terminal. Do this with the ignition key in the RUN position. Does the truck start?
This is where it gets weird. The truck does start and after i reconnect the wire it it starts normal. I started it several times throughout the day. The next morning I get in the truck. No start. I have to use the wire and manually connect it to the battery and it starts right up again. This time I get a "Tow/Haul" light blinking on the dash. It will go into gear but pressing the acceleration pedal does nothing. I turn it back off, attempt to start it normally and it starts right up. No it will go into gear and drive. Now I am thinking maybe the neutral safety switch?
Could it be a solenoid sticking or the neutral safety switch or something else entirely?
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I have a 2006 6.0l f350 crew cab that blows air hard every time I accelerate. Sounds like you're going 100mph with the hood unlatched. It blows real hard for a minute and goes away if I accelerate through it or let off.
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I was just wondering, is it normal when plowing to get stuck in the snow? Last year I got stuck and had to get pulled out, yesterday I got stuck again and when I have it in 4x4 hi, one front and one rear wheel spins. 4x4 low, the opposite front and opposite rear spin from hi. I want ALL 4 WHEELS TO SPIN! I'd NEVER get stuck if that happened! How do I get that to happen? I hear of a detroit locker. Do you need one for each wheel? I always thought as I was flying past everyone in the snow with a huge smile on my face, that all of my wheels were powered.
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