Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: ABS Light Kicks On When Hit A Bump
Oct 12, 2016
Brakes seem fine even when the light comes on so I'm guessing its more a sensor issue but which sensor? From researching others posts about ABS lights, seems the sensor on top of the rear differential is a common culprit, but I'm not having an speedometer issues, which also seems to be related to that sensor. It used to be if the bump was big enough to kick the cruise control off, the ABS light popped on as well, but now it's only a moderate bump and it will come on. Shut the rig off, re-start and the ABS light clears, until the next bump that is.
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I just looked back and it has been since July 7th that my girl has been sitting in my shop. Well this past weekend I finally got her back together and started. It took a while to build pressure but she finally came to life..
While I am thrilled that she is running again i have low power before the boost kicks in and is idling rough with a blueish- white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Once i kick her a little she will get up and go but I've never had the smoke before.
I'm thinking maybe a bad injector???
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My 6.0 powerstroke keeps shutting off when I hit a bump. It's like everything died and reset and I loose all memory to stereo and everything. When I got to work and popped the hood I tapped on the battery cover by the pcm and it shut off again.
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I have searched and have found a few threads on various transmission shifting issues. However nothing really pertaining to 13+ trucks that is only happening under certain conditions. It seems earlier trucks with problems were experiencing it all the time, not intermittent.
Here's what I got.... This only happens when:
- temp is 20 degrees or colder
- Truck has been sitting and is cold
- Trans temp under 70-80 degrees
- Only happens on the 3 to 2 DOWNshift when cold
The first few downshifts from 3 to 2 have a slight clunk/bump to them...just enough to feel it. After the first few initial downshifts from 3 to 2, it will not do it then, shifts fine and smooth. After a minutes of driving it, it will not do it until the next time it meets the list of items above. If I skip this gear manually until it has warmed up, it will not do it when returning to it.
-All other gears both up and down shifting feel good just the 3 to 2 when it does happen.
Once the transmission is warm or the temp is warmer outside the problem is non-existent and transmission shifts great in all gears and is smooth as butter!
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The first time it happened, I wasn't monitoring any PIDs as I didn't have my phone with me. Not really sure if I hit a bump or anything, it just stalled. I pulled it off to the side and put it in park and started cranking. Turned over rapidly but wouldn't start. I started freaking out thinking what am I going to do? Shut the truck completely off and waited a couple minutes and then turned the key and it started right up. Drove to my destination and didn't have another issue.
I'm only driving my truck on weekends as I have a company van and I can't park my truck at the condo I'm living at right now. So sometimes it's a few weeks between drives. This has been the story of my truck use since I nought it 3 years ago. In fact I know my turbo is sticking as the most boost it builds is 20-22 psi. I probably have a sticking injector too, as it smokes unburnt fuel until warm.
So the last few weeks when driving, I've noticed that if I hit a big bump, occasionally it dies again. What I've discovered is that it won't start unless I shut the key off entirely. Meaning, if it stalls I put it in neutral as I coast, shut the key off as far as it will go and it will start up. If I just throw it in neutral and try to start, it won't.
Watching my Torque Pro display, I've noticed that it locks up (like normal when I shut the truck off w/o shutting the Torque app off). The display then has read lower voltages than normal for FMP, FLP, FVP (main, logic and vehicle? can't remember ). FMP is normally at 48.5v and the other 2 hover around 13.9v. The last time it stalled, I noticed 9.3v for FLP and FMP was 23.4. I'm not sure if this is what it shut off at or if I panicked and tried starting it w/o shutting the key off entirely. So please don't take those readings as gospel.
I scanned it for codes, but nothing popped up.
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My 2006 f-250 just started blowing the #22 fuse when i go over a bump! Where the wire harness is for this. I've checked all the harnesses I could locate that looked like they could be rubbing on something.
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So with the hurricane coming to my house I did the balljoints on my drivers side yesterday to prepare to evacuate today. Everything went smooth with no problems. Now fast forward to the drive to Orlando, I hit a bump going 65 and my front right side (ball joint replacement side) starts humming. I pull over and it stops, get out see nothing obviously wrong and start back on my way with no noise to speak of. It happened again and again I just slowed to almost a stop and it went away. Yesterday after the repair I took it on a trip through some crappy roads, the freeway, and all that to ensure she was safe with no problems. Maybe it is the bearing failing all of a sudden (it looked fine when I took it off). I have had a vibration at 55 consistently i think is the tires now that I replaced the ball joints (was waiting to have the tire shop check balance until after the repair) maybe that could be it?
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4450 - Literature Program 09L02: Customer Maintenance Reminder
Some owners of certain F-Super Duty 250/350 4x4 vehicles have experienced severe steering and front wheel vibrations and oscillations after traveling over a bump or dip in the road. As a result of a study with NHTSA regarding shimmy, Ford sent a Customer Maintenance Reminder letter to owners back in March of 2009. In addition, Ford agreed to send reminder letter to owners.
Although there is no service action required by the dealer, customers will be informed if after setting the tire pressures on their truck to the Ford specified levels, they believe the vehicle needs additional service, to contact their local Ford dealer. Letters will be mailed starting the week of 12/09/13 and may result in increased customer service inquiries.
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I connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
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The thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
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So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
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I started my '16 6.7 this am and drove it about a mile.
The check engine light came on and at the same time the display said "Reduced Power". I decide to turn around and try to make it back to my shop but shortly after turning around the display said "Low Fuel Pressure" and within a couple of hundred yards it shut down leaving me stranded by the side of the road.....
I called my local dealer who gave me the Ford Cares 800 number. I got a flat bed in about 1.5 hours which I didn't think was too bad considering I live in the country and they brought it to the dealer. The SA said it might be a couple of days before they could look at it as they were pretty busy... What it could be? The engine is stock with 9100 miles on it...
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I have an 03 excursions with 6.0. I downloaded the sct livewire ts and the problem started. Through truck has no power the thief light flashes codes for cam and crank sensor and on when it acts up the glow plug light comes on. On the on the ts monitor it says no key in the ignition.
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Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.
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It's a 2004 6.0 excursion with about 190,000 miles. At 185,000 I pulled the motor and did new oem head gaskets, Arp head studs, bulletproof egr cooler and oil cooler system, bulletproof 48v ficm, strictly diesel regulated return, and I've been running gear heads srl tune before and after the truck was rebuilt.
Recently the truck has been acting up at random times. While running the gear head srl tune, the truck will lose power, the boost gauge on my edge insight will get stuck along with Icp psi, the water in fuel light and glow plug light will come on, and then after a few seconds it will clear itself and run fine. Last night I was on a two lane road and putting my foot into it and the truck did the same thing where it loses power, but this time the truck actually died on me while I was cruising at 60.
Same lights were on but this time the cruise control light fluttered while the truck was in the midst of dying. I tried restarting it and it took two sets of cranking before it fired and stayed running. On the way home I babied it and the truck lost power and the Rpms dropped and only the glow plug light came on. Got home and ran codes and I got camshaft and crankshaft position sensor codes and I tuned it back to stock, drove it around, and the truck ran fine, but while on a stock tune I am getting a egr valve code.
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