My A/C will blow cold for about 3 min. and then stop for 10 min......then cold again for 3 min.....then warm for 10 min.......what is going on ? It does this when on climate control and on A/C . I had a compressor go out about 1 1/2 yrs. ago due to a fan failing...the compressor tore apart... This is not acting like that though .
View 9 RepliesWhen I fire her up, the AC will blow cold for 10ish minutes until everything is up to normal operating temperature. Then it tends to blow warm, and that last for about 20 minutes, before finally settling back down and being cold AC again. I initially thought it was an issue with my compressor disengaging, but it doesn't seem to be...
View 3 RepliesHere's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
A few months ago, when I used the AC, it would kick in cold for a minute, then blow hot air for three minutes or so... and repeat. I checked into it, and the only error I got was the N42 resistor short to ground code. Looked it up, and it's supposed to be located here:
(#1 in the pic).
Funny thing... Cars with Climatronic don't have that resistor in that location (or at all from the searching I've done... and my blower works fine on all speeds). A week later (after a cold front), the AC worked flawlessly... Through SOWO. Wasn't until earlier last week that I noticed it crapped the bed again. The compressor isn't even kicking on... I haven't had the chance to scan the car again, but I'm going out on a limb to say it's the same error, to a resistor that isn't on our cars...
The compressor seems to work perfectly when it does work... So I'm thinking something's not kicking it on like it should. I'll be checking all fuses/relays tomorrow in the daylight.
I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
I have an 06 f250 w/ 6.0. Having a no start problem. If my truck is warmed up and sits for 5 min or so and try to start it, it starts fine. If it sits longer than that , no start. But if I wait about an hour and a half, it starts right up. Why would it not start if sitting for between 10- 90 min. Starts fine cold.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Miata. It's been over 100 degrees daily lately. The AC will blow sort of cold for about 30 minutes and the temp gauge will move towards the H hashmarks. If I turn the AC off, the gauge will slowly drop. I've also noticed that the amount of cold air is decreasing as time passes. In fact, the other day, the system was blowing air hotter than the outside temperature after about an hour drive.
The viewing glass has bubbling stuff flowing thru it. The recently flushed radiator is full as is the overflow reservoir.
Where the factory BT module is located? The other day while listening to music, I hit a bump and my bluetooth cut out, then came back about 5 minutes later. Almost as if it lost connection to the stereo then reconnected....wondering if something isn't connected securely...
View 3 RepliesMy truck is puffing smoke after about 10 minutes and warmed up (looks white). It happens only one time for about 30 seconds and looks light grey or whitish in color, definitely not black smoke. The truck runs just fine, starts great, doesn't hesitate or studder, doesn't loose any coolant, no signs of pukage. In other words, it Runs perfect.
By the time the smoke happens I am usually at an intersection and see this white smoke billow past me or see it in the pass. side mirror. it's too hard at the time to get out of the truck at that exact 10-15 seconds it smokes to smell it or see it's true color without my sunglasses on but it looks white or greyish. not convinced it's a blueish color.
The truck doesn't smoke at start up or run rough so I'm ruling out injectors. I think it might be the egr cooler that is still connected eventhough there is no hot gasses going through it. (Did the up pipe mod). I might have an egr valve that has a bad seal on it. I'll have to remove the egr valve and see if it looks gummy in there since the egr cooler still routes coolant.
The other thing it might be is a bad oil seal on the turbo which is burning off leaked oil after it's warmed up, again I don't see it smoke for the rest of the day.
The very first time I saw it smoke was the day after I did the up pipe mod and capped off the egr cooler. I may have had a small cooler leak before I did the up pipe mod and now the coolant (if it's coolant) can't run in the exhaust or burn off there directly. My SCT turns off the egr valve but the valve may have a bad seal in it along with a defective egr cooler. will remove the valve to inspect tomorrow if possible.
Early 2004 (IPC under turbo) 163000 miles. Injectors done last summer. Stock. Got a call that this guy died on the highway. By the time I got there (45 minutes?), it started and ran fine. He drove it for ahile, shut it down, drove it some more and it died again. I finally got it in and looked it over and test drove it. It died on me twice (Both times, I was pulled over and stopped. How lucky is that?) When it died, it showed that the Desired ICP dropped to zero just before the actual and the ICP voltage did. I wasn't watching the Regulator%. Cranking, it showed about 210 ICP and .19 ICP voltage. After it sat for maybe 10 minutes, it finally started.
Now, my question is, do I have a ICP problem or an electrical problem? My thinking is an electrical problem because to me, it doesn't seem like the oil would cool off enough in 10 minutes to allow it to become thick enough to build pressure again. I also noticed that the ICP dropped down to as low as about 590 at low idle once the oil temp was up to about 190, but it wasn't always that low - usually it was around 625ish. I have it idling right now and recording Sync now, but of course it's running fine. If my sync drops out, I need to change the Cam sensor or crank sensor, correct? If it doesn't drop out, I have a ICP problem. Does that sound right?
So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
My truck would not open door locks for like ten minutes or do anything. then all off sudden it worked again its this twice...
View 9 RepliesI have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
View 14 RepliesBeen chasing my tail and can't figure out an electrical issue. My issue is that I'll drive for about 20-30 min and the truck will shut off while driving. I'll pull off the road, let it sit for 10-20 min (cool down) and It will fire back up and go for another 15 min or so. Sometimes it will glitch/wig out when i try to start or not start....
I've replaced the following and monitored everything on a scanner.
-cam sensor
-crank sensor
-2 new batteries
-flashed the ecu
05' F250 6.0 King Ranch 4X4
today me and the wife where riding around doing some things before the snow storm. we went to the store and the heat was great but when we came out cranked the truck and all of a sudden no heat at all would just blow cold air. im not trying to go to a dealer and get charged an arm and a leg so where do i start.
View 14 RepliesOn my 7.3 super cab, I changed the fuel filter last Friday and now on cold start the service engine soon light comes on for a couple minutes (approximately) on a cold start. No other issues. Tried scanning with my scan gauge 2 and no codes. (of coarse I think that thing is a joke for scanning). Not sure if this means anything, but last week before I changed the filter I thought I smelled diesel fuel on a couple different occasions. If I actually did it may not even be related.
View 2 RepliesI have an '03 F350 6.0 that occasionally wouldn't start until it had cooled off for about 30 minutes. A friend of mine recommended adding a little marvel mystery oil to the oil system, I did research this and found no negative posts, but now it has been 2 hours and it still won't start. Could i have added too much and thinned the oil out too much?
View 7 RepliesI just bought 4 new tires and since then the Tire Sensor light comes on after I drive about 20 minutes. The place I bought the tires from has used their tool twice now and it is still happening. Could they have done something to have made this happen because I had no problem before they changed the tires...
View 1 RepliesShould the upper fuel bowl be empty after sitting for 30 minutes?
I believe no. Which would indicate to me a stuck open injector which Iv been suspected of. Iv been trying to track down a miss that I have and Iv been suspicious of a bad injector but ain't been able to pinpoint which one yet.
Just finished doing my own heads on my 2005 Excursion 6.0L. Turned it on with really no problems. After running for about 5 min. it started smoking. I also noticed that I had some pressure in the coolant reservoir. I toke off the cap and it stopped smoking. I placed it back one and it started to smoke again. Oil has water now. I used ford head gaskets and ARP bolts. I torqued the bolts down to ARP's specs and torque pater, 210 lbs/ft. I also replaced the oil cooler, stand pipes, stc and the dummy plugs. Also from Ford. I don't know where I went wrong.
View 14 RepliesSo I run a custom sct tune as my daily driver. Every 6 months or so my turbo starts acting funny. I get a weird turbo bark on wot. The shift pattern gets thrown off. It feels like something is about to break in a bad way.
But then it fixes itself. I return my truck to stock and run a couple laps down the highway. It blows smoke, stinks, and smells like something is burning for about 15 minutes then it is fine. I change it back to the custom tune and it runs fine for 6 months again.
What this is? Is this an egr valve or ebp sensor?