Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Display For Climate Controls Was Completely Black
May 30, 2015
Was driving the last week and happened to look down and notice the display for my climate controls was completely black. They were still running at whatever I had them last set at but couldn't change anything or turn the system off. Pulled into a parking lot, turned the truck off then started it again and everything was working fine.
Couple days later, was driving down the road again, glanced down and now my climate display, stereo display and odometer display were all black but once again everything was still functioning, just couldn't change anything. Turned my wipers on to check those, heard a little click, and all the displays popped back on like normal???? Wipers worked just fine too.
I'm assuming a short somewhere but wouldn't even know where to start to look or if it's even within my limited skill set to try and track down.
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I have a 2008 LS360L with 4-zone climate control. For whatever reason, the rear seat controls and display do not work for climate control. The controls still work for radio, rear seat adjustment and window shades, but climate functions are unoperable.
Additionally, the 4-zone buttons on the nav touchscreen are now missing in the climate menu. There used to be left / right passenger settings and then a button to switch to rear seat settings. These options have all disappeared from the menu.
I can press the 4-zone physical button on dash and manually change temperature settings for driver or passenger by pressing physical driver / passenger temperature up / down buttons.
The only thing I can attribute to this is I had the dealer do a map upgrade to the nav system. All other features / functions work, but the timing is somewhat suspect... They really do not believe this upgrade caused the problem.
Are there hidden menus I may have hit to deactivate this feature?
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First off my vents stopped blowing completely. At this time the thermostat was still functioning. Fuse 28 was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew again shortly after turning the heater on. I replaced the relay and resistor and still blowing fuses. For some reason I tried a 30A fuse and it didn't blow but a few minutes after turning on the heater there was a burning smell. I immediately turned it off and pulled the fuse back out, which was hot. I then replaced the blower motor and at this point there is no power at all to the control panel. The fuses are all fine as well as the relay and resistor. There's power to the fuses. So it seems like somewhere between the fuse box and the control panel I'm losing power.
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Today I was riding along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power. I look in the rear view mirror and get into the pedal and a lot of black smoke. When I get to where I'm going and stop I noticed the idol was a little loopy. I never saw a check engine light. I have the Edge insight. I had two codes. P1000 OBD System readiness test not complete. P2290 ICP TO LOW.
When I would reset the codes the P1000 came back instantly every time. I parked the truck for about an hour. When I started it back up everything was normal. The power was back and no smoke. This happened two more times throughout the day. I have heard people describe a sticking EGR Valve causing these symptoms. Is that where I should start looking or is the ICP the culprit or something else?
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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I went out to the store today all was fine came back out and started driving got 2 miles down the road to a red light and the truck about stalled no power it doesn't smoke at idle but revved up it blows black and some white and the truck shakes. I am thinking its stiction or bad FICM????
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So I am not sure exactly what is going on with my truck. It is a 2004 F250 has a 6.0 L. Sometimes when I take off from a stop the truck has no power and blows some black smoke. Then the turbo kicks in and all is fine. It comes and goes when it pleases no matter the temperature. What started happening is when I drive it a steady pace on the highway sometimes the turbo gets quieter and louder and quieter and louder sometimes when it gets quieter I see a little bit of black coming out of the tailpipe. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all. Also sometimes when I let off the gas the truck sounds like it's trying to laugh at me like a wastegate is fluttering.
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05 6.0 deleted and studded. 170k fresh filters and oil, no CEL or codes.
This has happened 3x in months, so it intermittent. Truck will start fine cold, except for this last episode ....
Truck starts right up, idles correctly, speed bumps up if its cold enough to trigger the high idle. About mid way through its warm up, at approx 130-140 idle falls off, barely runs. Almost knocking. Black smoke if you give it throttle. Has no power when its doing this. Truck will not move and almost dies in gear. Give it til 185ish degrees then pooof! All good.
However 2 days ago it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't catch. Stumbles and dies. Finally got it to start after setting the charger on it. I killed it. But this time when it started it was straight into its rough idle, no power...until about 180. I switched it off, restarted it and it was totally fine
Ficm is 47-47.5. Every now and then I see a 46.5 for a split sec
Hpop is 700-800cold cranking.
Not sure what else to look at.
Moto craft filters.
Amsoil 5w-40
Archoil in the fuel and oil
Twc3 at every fill up.
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Started with lots of black smoke all of a sudden. Not under any significant load at that time. Reached destination (barely) and started the search. Have taken off blue connectors on CAC passenger side. Top is marginal but see no holes. Pulled the MAP hose and see nothing unusual. Have not checked the driver side CAC or the BPV sensor. Have a ScanII device that shows no codes. Got my other scanner and it too shows no codes.
Had it towed home over 100 miles 'cause now it just barely runs. Idles fine but have a engine noise change (deep and hollow) every once and a while at idle. EGR leak? Doesn't blow black smoke anymore. More of a white/blue. Exhaust smells odd. Absolutely no turbo activity. When shutting hear no whine down of the turbo. No boost evident on the dash or on the scan II. I am at a loss at this point. Will check fittings again.
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This is my first winter with my 05 F250 that has the 4wd controls on the floor. I'm just trying to figure out the proper way to put in in and out of 4wd. I did some reading and everyone talks about engaging the hubs, but my truck seems to have automatic hubs because the selector Is not on the outside of the hubs. Am I missing something obvious or am I just reading the wrong things. When I bought it at the end of summer, we tried 4wd out but only for a second and it would grind and be generally unhappy when we were doing it (while driving slow, and complete stop to go to low).
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Got the single controls with my 2011. How hard is it to change to dual controls?
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So since I bought this truck a few weeks back I noticed it rode alittle "rougher" than some of the other trucks I test drove. But for the life of me I could not find anything suspension wise so I crawled under and looked else where to find this......
I'm ordering new mounts from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories I've read good and bad things about using after market poly bushings, and I'm just not wanting to take the risk. I want it to ride like factory. There are a total of 8 mounts, just the rears are going to run $150.
Also on a side note, I'm thinking of swapping out the exhaust. The downpipe is a full 4' and its hitting in alot of places. Do most of you run the 3.5" DP like MBRP makes?
Passenger far rear Top of same one, basically gone Here you can actually see where the shell has been hitting the frame bracket The middle ones look ok but are pretty dry rotted Drivers far rear is completely gone top and bottom The exhaust pipe is whacking the cross member because the hanger isn't even being used
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6.0. 115,000 miles. Everything stock, except bully dog intake filter.
I replaced the FICM recently, with one that I bought from the guy who makes those cool You Tube videos, Diesel Tech Ron. I also replaced the EGR valve. I also replaced the intercooler boots on the hot side. I cleaned the intercooler pipes. I cleaned the intake filter as well. I'm still blowing out black smoke, if I floor it when I need to pass someone.
Follow up question: I bought those boots from Riff Raff Diesel and I bought new clamps, too. I'm not sure if I installed correctly. It's already blown one off (it blew the top of the intercooler pipe off, by the turbo, but the boot stays on the turbo) and I put it back on and tightened it all the way down, and I've had to re-adjust 2 times, now, since it acts like it still wants to slip off. Do I simply have the other ones misaligned???
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So I started to NM from fort worth texas with my 33" camper blew my CAC pipe four times. Finally got there. In the morning it took longer than expected to start. When it did white smoke. That was replaced with black smoke under full throttle.
I went from elevation of 700 to 8000 Ft. Should I care about black smoke? Meaning should I take it to Ford and get a rental car to get it looked at for our trip home.
96 degrees towing at 70mph with lots of climbing mountains.
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1st Ford was an '08 to '10 model F250 6.4L that had an engine fire on I-82 towards Ellensburg in the passing lane.
2nd Ford was a 2005 F-250 6.0L at Vantage, he had black smoke coming out of the exhaust and a terrible engine knock, and was pulling a 32 ft TT. When I went to go talk to him, he had no idea what a ScanGauge was or anything about the truck.
When I looked at the engine bay with him I saw the EGR valve had been deleted with a block off plate and not plugged into the fan hanging on the side anywhere, he had the high rise aftermarket oil cap installed, ALL the metal/aluminum parts had bad oxidization. He had no gauges whatsoever.
Then to top it off, he said he was going to try and make it to Ellensburg while pulling his trailer. I told him he had a 4% grade for 10 miles in front of him to climb, and the another 35 miles after that on flat ground. All I could feel was, "is there any hope for this guy"?
Anyways, my question is, without any gauges, what would be some good educated guesses with the black smoke and knock? I am mostly just curious what this guys issue might of been with his truck since seeing the symptoms first hand.
My thoughts are the oil cooler leaking, and making the injector(s) stick open.
Of course now that I think of it, there's probably too many scenarios to mention.
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Driving home 2003 6.0 started blowing a ton of black smoke, cars wouldn't get behind me. Found an exhaust leak on the driver side up y pipe. Would that cause this much smoke? 2 codes were 0284 and 0281, I replaced those injectors about 10k ago, at the same time replaced turbo, hpop, egr valve and cooler delete, and new oil cooler.
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Found a 2004 Ex, Eddie Bauer edition says it has injector issues, blowing black smoke........ It is apart cause he thought it was the EGR. Has 245,000 on the clock. If the body is super clean I'll give him a offer, it's going to get a motor either way and I'll have my Ex back.............I really miss that truck!
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Here is the issue i am having. 2011 F-350 King ranch with all bells and whistles. In Arizona now we are in the season that the weather is cold in the AM and sometimes hot enough in the late afternoon to need the A/C in the truck. with the settings on Auto which i normally do, and the external temp reading in the 80s, and the internal thermostat set at 70 or lower, the A/C compressor will not engage and allow for cooling the cab of the truck. But sometimes it will work just fine. I am assuming there is a temp sensor for cabin temperature. Where that is located. or will i have to change out the entire Climate Control Module. I would take it in to have it checked out but it is an intermittent problem, and i cant not have my truck for a couple of days while they try and figure it out.
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I have a 2005 6.0 f350 lariat... My climate control doesn't switch very well I can get it to go to floor sometimes after 15min of pressing the button. The vacuum pump is good the tank has no cracks. I feel that the system is either plugged up or has a leak. I cleaned the tank after my hub seals went and it sucked a ton of dust and dirt through my wheel bearings in to the tank. Is the vacuum switching part of the digital display? Or is there a separate part?
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During an out of town trip today, 6.0L 2006 started burning black smoke when accelerating. Was bullet proofed in 2013 without replacing injectors. Running a SCT programmer. After getting home I connected the tuner and didn't have any DTC's. Checked the oil, didn't smell any diesel on the oil stick. I was running the street tune, so I changed to the performance tune and it doesn't seem to be smoking as bad. What could be going on? This site has always came through for me (a non mechanic) when troubles start.
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I have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
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