Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: EGT Gets High On Long Steep Pulls / Lowering?
Jun 30, 2016
What besides a 4" exhaust can I do to lower EGT? When I tow with my tow tune the EGT gets high on long steep pulls. Would like to be able to use it with the tune because there is more power and it pulls nicer, but I want to lower my EGT. I have a 4" flo pro system coming. What else can I do? Would a new intercooler make much of a difference? Already have an S&B cold intake and Banks Hi Ram.
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I do not think, I have seen anything about the engine shutting down descending a steep grade. first it threw the "wrench" warning and than that the engine was going on limp mode. luckily no one was on the road with me, coming or going. i pulled off on the shoulder with part of the pickup and 5er on the road. no steering or brakes used the 5er brakes to stop. turned the key off and restarted it again and no code or warnings. like nothing happened. it happened twice today between yellowstone park and great falls, mt. the second time the engine light stayed on and i had to stop and turn it off and restart it and it went away.
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If I am going over 40 mph and I have to brake hard my truck pulls really hard to the right. I mean so hard it will take me off the road. My truck is a 2004 f250 with 147,000 miles.
In the last six months I have replaced both hubs, rotors and brakes. I really drive like an old man so I don't know how long I have had this issue. Just someone pulled in front of me on the freeway and I had to brake hard and I found this out.
I have checked both front capilers and brake lines and those are fine. I have brand new tires on it. I really have no clue what is going on. I have pulled the brakes off three times and checked everything out and it looks good. If slowly push the brakes everything is great, it is only when I have to really slam on them.
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So I've been noticing the truck pulls left when under braking. So, I replaced the front calipers. Now, it still pulls left. When I got home I felt the discs on all corners and found three about the same, barely touchable, and the front left a little warmer. So, it seems its braking more, but its brand new. So, what should I do? They are also pulsing a little.
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Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either. Would a right rear cause this?
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2003 f350 6.0 psd
Long story short, 7 out of 10 times when I turn on my headlights (while driving) my ABS light will flash, all gauges will drop to zero then instantly resume their place, lights are on and everything seems to be normal..
Recently it seems that when ever what I just explained above happens, and I press the brake pedal shortly after the truck pulls to the right. Harder I press the brakes the harder it pulls the truck off the road. Pretty scary stuff..
Brakes look good. Although I haven't checked the fluid or for any real notable leaks.
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Parts came from Riffraft Diesel Performance. A set of "o" rings for the injectors. High flow CVD fittings for the fuel lines. Turbo rebuild kit. (its got 210,000+ miles) Anti Surge compressor wheel.(ok its not part of the oil problem)
Photos to come. I will take during the rebuild.
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So, a year ago or so I had the truck die on me, it would start after cranking it a long time and cough/sputter for a few minutes with no power. I thought it seemed like a weak hpop or leaking oring, so I tore it down and put it all back together with a something or other hpop. Now I have a no crank no fuel pump condition, the injectors don't cycle when I turn the key on, I do get relays clicking, but no start, the yellow/blue wire gets the starter to turn over, but no fuel, so couldn't start if it wanted to... I am getting 120 ohms (like 122) on the dlc 6,14 and millivolts, basically nothing between 4 and 14...
I sent the ficm off to get rebuilt and they told me that it was already good (charged me anyway though, ah well...) I wiggled wires around and pulled my ficm plugs apart and pushed the wires in some, didn't seem to move any... What is next? There can't be that many things that cause all three, No Fuel Pump, No Crank and No Injector Buzz, can there?
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I'm having a long crank cold start issue. It takes about 2 five second cranks before the truck will start up. It just started acting this way yesterday before I fired it up to go to school. After its warm it fires up no problem the rest of the day, just takes a bump of the key.
I don't think it's the GP system as this truck has started at -20 to -25C all winter long unplugged with no issues. From my reading some sources say that it could be a HPOP leak, maybe dummy plugs?
Is there any way for me to do some more diagnosing - places to look or test for? There are no stored codes other than an EGR code due to the delete. Truck is completely stock with atlas 40.
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About how long do batteries hold up in this truck? I ask because in my 06 6.0 it was an annual event 2 batteries and an alternator.
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Some information about the truck2004 Excursion, Motor has a December 2003 built date listed on the valve cover
Bullet proof complete by Hallas performance just prior to Mike's passing (3 years ago). ARP, EGR, Oil Cooler, lifters, etc..
Newer batteries, DC amp 185 alternator, newer starter, she cranks hard and fast~230,000 miles
Here is the situation: Starts good and fast when cold, even subzero temperatures. She cranks long and barely catches if I make a short stop at a store or restaurant. A few hours later or the next morning is fine.
I found the following codes:
P2284 - Injector Control Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P2291 - Injector Control Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking
P0528
I took her into the local Ford Dealer for diagnosis and here's what they reported. ICP tests good and has the latest pigtails. They reported a leak in either of the following.
Oil injection pump Estimate of 8.5 hours to repair.
Under the Valve Cover Gasket. Estimate of 3.5 hours to repair.
So here are the questions I have. Does this diagnosis sound appropriate? Is it reasonable that they do not know which area is causing the problem? Are the hours reasonable estimates for the repairs? Assuming I go ahead with these repairs, is there anything else I should have them look at while they're in there?
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So how long does one have to crank until it is considered an extended crank? 2 seconds, 5 seconds, 10 seconds.....?
The reason I ask is after all the motor work I did on my truck sometimes she fires up in less than 1 second of cranking and other times it take maybe 2 seconds of cranking. I do not think 2 seconds is considered and extended crank time but was just curious about what is considered extended cranking.
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Now that I have gotten my ScanGauge II to monitor all 4 egt sensor, I am wondering about temperatures while towing, especially how long to idle a hot engine after heavy towing.
I realize all 4 sensors are post turbo (and there is no chance I'm going to drill for an after market pre-turbo sensor). It seems the first one downstream will be the one to watch.
What temperature range we should look for before turning off the engine? IIRC, Ford recommends idling for 3 to 5 minutes, but watching the temp seems a bit more specific.
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On Saturday I drove my truck 450 miles, all of it towing, in hilly New England. The turbo boost gauge was operating at 20psi or higher for many of the hills, and the 13mpg average was indicative of how hard the truck was working (normally empty I will get 20+). The next day, I drove it about 3 miles and it started a regen. Why? Wouldn't it have been passively regenerating for most of those miles? A steady 75mph for hours at a time?
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2003 6.0 will fire within 2 seconds when cold, literally a "bump the key" and she fires up scenario. Recently and only when the engine is hot I'm getting extended crank times and sometimes it takes several attempts for the truck to start. I replaced the HPOP with an upgraded pump after the factory HPOP went out at 311,000 miles. I know this sounds like a standpipe leak scenario but it doesn't act up all the time, sometimes it fires right up even when its hot. my thinking is a leak is a leak and only gets worse.
My IPR is reading in the 26% range, FICM is steady in the 47.5 to 48 volt range and at idle 585 to 600 psi on the ICP with a good FICM sync. I'm going to to use my scan gauge and see if I can catch an extended crank scenario to see if the ICP is reaching 500 psi but is there somewhere else I should be looking? FICM relays possibly? I've noticed when i turn the key on I'll hear the fuel pump,vacuum pump but the clicking sound is very brief or nonexistent (not sure what the clicking noise is from I assumed glow plugs but its absence is noticed)...
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
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I have a 2006 F350. I have long crank times. No Codes. I have Autoenginuity with Enhanced Codes and everything shows fine. I replaces standpipe and dummy plugs. Glow Plugs and harness. I was hoping it not be the STC but I needed to do oil cooler so wanted to eliminate STC. Got truck apart and the STC Fitting is newer style so I'm kinda bummed out. Not sure if I'm missing something and as far as I have it torn down is there anyway to test what could be causing the problem? Or just put it back together and keep my fingers crossed that whoever put the new STC fitting in screwed it up. I'm beginning to not like my truck.
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I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
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A few weeks ago i had a surging idle issue very intermittently, and it went away for a while so i stopped thinking about it. Just got back from a weekend in vermont, about 130 miles each way, and i noticed as soon as i got to vermont and came to a stop sign it was surging, and when i just got home it was surging again. Why would this have picked back up after long stretches of running for a while? Runs great as far as i know, just have this surging idle for some reason.
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OK here we go it all started with a long crank and now no fire. I changed cam sensor wiggled wires got to fire , shut off than nothing . Changed wire from cam sensor to about 6" from ecu found small nick in wire. Swapped ecu no good... I am getting my numbers from torque app.
ficm sync = 0
RPm = 172
FLP = 12
fmp =49
Hpop = 1823 max
Ipr = 80.9 max stready at 48
ipr volt =.02 at rest
Also tested fuel pressure at filter 80 psi ( blue spring)
ficm sent to ficm repair, tested good
cam sensor changed , pig tail also
bubble test on fuel filter no thing there
So any thing else to check or am i looking at a harness change?
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So my recently purchased 2005 f350 has an abnormal long crank. I searched all the internet and everything pointed to STC fitting. Well I knew I had some other things I wanted to knock out so I ended up buying an update kit from sinister diesel. It included an updated fitting, new degas cap, updared turbo oil feed and return lines, blue spring update, and "dummy" tubes or something like that.
During the last few days I have removed the turbo, and finally got to the hpop. As I was removing the turbo I thought I might have the updated lines as there was no braided area in the feed tube. Sure enough I pulled the hpop and I have the one piece fitting. So now that I have wasted all this time removing all this stuff for no reason I still don't know what is causing my long crank. I am going to probably install the new fitting and lines anyway but where do I go from here?
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