Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Diagnose And Replace A Bent Push Rod


Jun 7, 2016

I had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.

My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.

My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?

I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?

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Using a Porta Power hydraulic jack to push one of these? Not sure how I'd keep it from just bending the opposite, but can prolly figure that out. Just don't know if those are strong enough. I see 4ton and 10 ten models.

Otherwise, are there any other hillbilly methods for pushing or pulling?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: How To Check Push Rod Without Removing The Head

I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?

Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?

Full Story here : [URL] ....

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I have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Traction Control Turn Off And Stay Off When Push The Button?

Does the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.

What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Engine Stumbles When Push Door Unlock

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Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.

I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Washer Fluid Cutting Out Or Not Even Working When Push The Button

1993 ford ranger ... Having issues with washer fluid not working. Mine has started cutting out or not even working when I push the button. But if bang it on the end of the handle with something hard it will work just long enough to clean the salt off the window.

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Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: ESOF Won't Engage - How To Diagnose Vacuum Leak

How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.

My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Replace Oil Cooler?

Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - How To Replace Thermostat In E350 Van

I bought a 2004 E350 van that has been driven 9000 miles in the past 6 years. Replacing a thermostat in an E350 6.0 Powerstroke van?

My van is running on the cold side ECT 176-180 when idling. It will reach 190 when I am driving. The EOT is 6-10 degrees higher.

I am flushing the system with Restore and plan to replace the T-stat soon when it arrives from Amazon. I have 3 gallons Cat ECT-1 full strength coolant and a lot of distilled and reverse osmosis water for the flush.

Is it a long procedure? There is not much room in a van to work with ease. If it's too involved, I will find some over time at work and pay my mechanic to do the install.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Replace Front Headlights?

Wanted to replace my front headlights on the '06 with the PIAA Extreme White bulbs.

Before I ordered them I looked to see how easy the bulbs were to access...

Looks like its a bear to access. Is there a video??

As a side note I already have the Brite Box installed, which I really like

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Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Replacing Tires Replace TPMS Sensors Too?

Got 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.

Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.

Any real world experience on battery life?

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 F250 - Replace Or Clean EGR Valve?

My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it. I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.

The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)

I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.

First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?

The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?

The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?

I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.

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While its on the lift he notices a leak near the hydroboost. I think there on crack...but that's my opinion.

Anyways I look at it and I see a leak at one of the connections under the Master Cyl. Its the connection closest to the firewall. My question is there a oring in there that can be replaced or will I need to replace the entire part?

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So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?

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Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.

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