1993 ford ranger ... Having issues with washer fluid not working. Mine has started cutting out or not even working when I push the button. But if bang it on the end of the handle with something hard it will work just long enough to clean the salt off the window.
View 14 RepliesDoes the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
If it can go wrong, it seems like it does.... Washer fluid is not pumping. The other day I am almost sure I heard the pump running but no fluid came out. Yesterday I filled the reservoir and now I don't even hear the pump. It's been very cold so I thought maybe the fluid had frozen? I can't find the fuse listed for the washer fluid pump and was going to check that first. Where is the pump even located? 2006 F350
View 6 RepliesI am a new owner of a 2006 F 250 6.0.
I need to install a new washer fluid pump. My question is what is the best way to get the old one off and the new one on? Should I go from under the wheel well? Or is there another easier way to get to it? The truck didn't come with an owners Manuel and I cant find anything about how to do this.
Like the title says I dropped about a 2 inch piece of small washer fluid hose in my cylinder while evacuating the oil from it . Will it damage the valves If I ran it? Any way to remove it without removing the head?
View 14 RepliesAbout a month ago my truck was cutting out at one point it wouldn't even crank, got it going took it to the shop found my driver side battery clamp cracked, replaced it aswell as the egr valve because I had a p0401 code. Valve was pretty gummed up. Now recently it started doing it again. It cut out and it started right back up then later that night drove it two blocks and died, turn the key on and my glow plug light stayed on and wouldn't crank, was checking over all my connections and nothing seemed to be wrong. And then randomly it seemed like everything reset and my injectors would buzz, glow plugs cycled and fuel pump kicked on and started right up and drove home.
I replaced the pcm relay because one terminal looked to have gotten hot. Let her warm up in the driveway and she cut out twice but started right up. Checked over the connections again, replaced and cleaned both batteries, took it for a drive and no problems, later on started up again and let her warm up and cut out again, this time I got the p0401 code again. (Egr insufficient flow). I'm at a loss not sure where to keep going. It's an 04 f350 with egr delete, banks turbo and intake, with edge juice with attitude tuner on level 3 never switched levels around. And some other add on and mods that could make the list go on.
I have a 2004 Super Duty with a 6.0 diesel. Recently the windshield washer seems to have lost some of it's spray power. It still sprays, just not very hard. I know it's not frozen, as it started this before it got cold.
View 3 RepliesI replaced my injectors n ficm, truck runs great. Now my wipers dont work. Turn signals, hi beams work. Got power at both fuses and they have continuity but no wipers or washer pump. Looking for a diagram for this? Is the motor located under the front cowl?
View 1 RepliesI had an huge amount of work done to my 2004 Excursion (early model 6.0) earlier this year. ARP studs, new HPOP, ICP, IPR, Ford lifters, Ford push rods, EGR delete, Bulletproof remote oil cooler and filter, EBP sensor and tube, Ford head gaskets, and a bunch of other stuff including eventually a new FICM (not Ford) and a new 140 Amp alternator.
My problem is it sounds to me like some sort of metallic tapping is going on and it doesn't feel as smooth as I would expect -- like a very soft miss. Currently the tech says that there are no "low contributing cylinders". I am wondering if there may be a slightly bent push rod? He is adamant that a bent push rod won't stay where it is supposed to -- I say it depends on how bent it is. I am also worried that a rocker arm may be bent or deformed in some way.
My question is this; Once the valve covers come off -- if nothing looks wildly wrong, where do I begin to confirm that I do not have bent push rods or damaged rocker arms? He says that in order to check the push rods we would have to remove head bolts off of the rocker arms (I think I have that right). But he said we run the risk of compromising the head gaskets if we touch anything like that. If we have to remove head bolts (stud nuts for me?) can you take one rocker arm loose, check that rocker arm and push rod, and put it back together safely? Without having to pull it all the way down and put new head gaskets, etc? That would mean releasing the clamping pressure across both heads at each rocker arm -- is that creating the potential for blown head gaskets?
I know in my youth we would roll push rods on a sheet of glass (12" X 12") because glass is supposed to be flat -- can't bend it or deform it without breaking it first. I assume that still works. I now have a Scan Gauge II but it is not set up yet to check all of the readings for the sensors. I also believe I need to check for leaks with simple green and to make sure I don't have any exhaust leaks. But what about the push rod/rocker arm question? Is there another way to verify integrity?
I have a "VAN" Ford E350 and I need to check push rod on cylinder 1 and 5 left bank, how to do this?
Is ok if I remove the ARP head stup then check push rod and then re torque the head stud?
Full Story here : [URL] ....
Window washer nozzle break? My passenger side broke last Friday and then today when inspecting the driver's side it broke in the exact same place. They broke near where the nozzle that is inserted into the hose takes a 90 degree turn up through the hood leaving parts of the nozzle in the hose. I was able to squeeze the rubber hose with pliers to break up the plastic nozzle so that it would fall out. Attempts to grab broken nozzle piece with needle nose pliers were unsuccessful. Of course they waited too break until 8 months after my warranty expired but not a big deal. 10 minute install. I got the last two that the dealer had in stock.
View 14 RepliesI have already logged 6K miles on her, crazy, but it's my job. I have pulled 5 maybe 6 trailers (form trailers, about 15K pounds loaded, this time of year). Loaded or unloaded, when I push the throttle in 2nd, 3rd gear, I feel a shudder, like transmission shudder.I know this thing throws down 800 ft. lbs. of torque, should I not be pushing it so hard? Or, what am I feeling?
View 14 Replies'03 Excusion 6.0psd....new batteries a year ago, new starter a month ago, head gaskets etc a year ago....
Today I go out and start it up, no problem. Gather up the kids and head out to load up. When I climb in, I hit the unlock button to make sure the kid's doors are open and the engine stumbles.
I thought maybe I was imagining things so I hit it again and the same thing happened but it died but fired right back up. Drove the kids to school and it ran fine, no problems.
So my wife and I swap vehicles for one day and what happens? It snows like hell and she can't get any wiper fluid to come out!
I started some troubleshooting and missed some clear indicators of the problem.
->Rear fluid works
->No pump engagement when trying the front fluid
Wasn't sure if I had 1 or 2 pumps (separate front and back or just one) so I bought one, tore out the reservoir (that air intake was a tough one), swapped the pumps and PRESTO! Still didn't work.
This leads me to believe I should have realized it was switch/power related all along. I don't mind tearing things apart, but I'm not good with electrical. Should I just buy a new whole stock and see if that works? My fuse isn't blown and seems to also be for the power windows, which do work, so I think I should be fine from that point.
My rotary push button, the big round button in the middle of the infotainment system stopped working a day ago. It was working one day and stopped working the next. If freely rotates without any resistance, but doesn't carry out any of the previous functions that it performed. All the other buttons on the infotainment system work perfectly.
I have a 2005 W12
getting weak spray/dribble (yea, it could be a "personal problem " on the drivers side squirter. Left side great. I have replaced both squirters and blew out the line where it T's over to the drivers side.
Still weak.. I'm thinking its most likely low pressure coming off the pump and maybe it's time to replace I haven't crawled under there to inspect placement of pump. Thought while there I would also replace the reservoir.
I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and about two weeks ago the key fob stopped working. I replaced two new batteries and nothing. I read up and found that if you place the fob over the start button and wait for the green light it would start. I have been starting the car like that ever since. Now here is the issue. Yesterday I went out to eat and when I was about to leave it would not start with the key over the button. I did not get a green light, nothing. after trying for about 10 minutes I got it to turn on the electrical system (basically it acted like it started but didn't) all the lights turned on and I saw the Check complete on the dash but the engine did not crank or start at all. Finally I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and connected it again and was able to get it to start and drive home, now back to the same problem.
View 6 RepliesI've topped up the DEF and the warning is still showing that I'll have reduced engine power within 45kms.
Its weird, just yesterday it showed 550kms to empty so I added one full container, all day it kept showing less and less kms' til empty. Warning lights and bells etc.
This evening topped it completely and still shows. Is there a way to reset it without having to stop at the service dept.
I have a 2005 F-250 6.0 Powerstroke.
My washer fluid pump is not working, it was a few weeks ago but now it is broken. The Owner's Manual only has the listing fuse 33 for "cluster, 4x4, wipers". It looks like some of the older models have an actual fuse for the "washer fluid pump". I checked fuse 33 under the dash and it is ok. What fuse controls the washer fluid pump?
The pump does not make noise when activated, so I'm starting at the fuse but I don't know what the hell is going on.
I removed the 4 injectors on the drivers side of my 2006 6.0 to clean them up and replace the o-rings and copper compression washer. When I put it all together (everything torqued per shop manual) I am now getting P0266,P0291, and P1000 codes. I have checked the connection on the #2 injector, it is good, and I didn't have any problems with connectors breaking or going back together on the FICM...
The truck will start after a long crank,but smokes and runs rough. It was running without codes before I messed with it. The reason for tearing into It was it has experiencing a pretty big drop in fuel milage. I had been running revx and fuel additives with mixed results...
My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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