Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Positive Cables Of Battery Sparking?
Jan 4, 2017
I'm pretty new to working on cars let alone a diesel truck, so this could well be something simple and / or dumb. Hopefully it is.
Batteries recently replaced. Started cleaning terminals on driver side and realized I needed a couple of fasteners. Between getting them, the weather going bad and getting sick that battery was unconnected for several days, truck not driven.
Finished cleaning the terminals this afternoon, went to connect the positive cables and they're sparking. Driver side negative cable is unattached. Neither of the two positive cables sparks when touching positive battery post alone. They only spark when they are brought together.
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Got new batteries installed yesterday and found that the passenger side battery has a nearly broken positive terminal. Had to handle it very gently.
Don't want to replace the entire battery cable just to get the terminal. Using bolt-on replacement terminals? What did you go with and where can it be found?
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What gauge wires the battery cables are on these trucks? Son in law has some really corroded cables on the Excursion. I was going to pick up some welding cable and replace them, but a quick glance looks like different sizes for different cables.
Looking for a list of gauge and length for each one to save me a little time?
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I purchased a 2000 7.3 dually 4x4 and the driver side battery is missing with the cables snipped.
I noticed the headlights do not function, neither do the brights, the air does not blow. Is this related to the missing battery? Someone said they are on same circuit and dont do separate tasks.
Still starts runs drives fine...
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I have an 04 f250 diesel and i am wondering whatst are the minimum cca's i need to be able start my truck. Both of my batteries are no good anymore and i need to replace them both but not sure on the cca's the truck needs
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My new to my 2013 f150 needs the terminal replaced due to corrosion. Need the p/n for just the terminal not the whole cable.
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I have a 2011 6.7 with 16000 miles and it just turned 5 years old.Yesterday had hood up and notice driver side battery eye indicator was red, other battery was showing green, truck turned over and started fine. 15 degrees out this morning, truck started fine.Truck hasn't been ran for a couple weeks.What does the red indicate,battery needs charged or time for new batteries?
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Car details : 2005 Camry V6
I was replacing the dead battery in my car. While disconnecting positive terminal cables, top cable going to relay/ fuse box side was broken around the lug.Looks like power cable for fusebox or something. I have 2 cables connecting to the positive terminal and only one is broken.
1.If this particular cable can be bought independently , if yes what is the part number . Can I buy this at any local store ? .
Confusion is, all I see is one cable listed on part schematic which seems to be the second cable.
2. Couldn't find any DIYs with pictures to replace this cable, as currently I can only see half of the cable . Don't know where other end goes.
Now my car is sitting duck with me taking a cab to go to work.
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I just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
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My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
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I charged the batteries fully, new alternator put in and checked grounds. Light was off, but while driving to work it came back on again and stays on. Battery voltage is 14.2 on each at idle and 13.4 while engine and key off. Maybe the two prong connector needs to be replaced?
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Running down the road today and the battery light came on. Went on and off intermittently as I drive home and the tuner showed 11.5v. Got home, shut it off (didn't mean to) and restarted it. Tested voltage at the batteries and was over 14. Need to take it for a drive and see if it repeats.
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I have 51k on my 2014 Platinum F-350 and the little red battery light come on. I take it in and they tell me that it is going to be a little over $1,300.00 to replace my alternator. I have had the truck since May 30, 2014 and the alternator has gone bad. I am regretting trading in my 1999 F-350 with over 365 k on it. Never had an electrical problem besides replacing the batteries every 4 years or so. Is this a common problem on these new trucks?
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Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
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If I had to charge the batteries, Do you charge only the primary battery or do you charge both?
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In the past I've had truck batteries last close up to 9 years but at 59 months one of my batteries is not looking that great. The battery status indicator is red. I checked the level of the side that appears to be leaking and it's ok. I've had no issues with starting and it seems to crank over just as fast as when new.
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My battery light is coming on in the mornings for up to about 14 miles. I am showing 13.2 to 13.6 volts with torque pro. The light hardly ever comes on in the afternoon, but sometimes. I had the batteries and alternator tested yesterday at Advance Auto parts. Alternator showed good both times they tested it. Batteries showed at or just above their rated cranking amps. I have inspected both negative grounds from the batteries, the engine ground from the firewall to the passenger side back side of the engine, and the body ground on the passenger side to the frame. They look great, tight, and have not moved in a long time. I added a cable from the alternator to the fender well and it showed about 7 amps while idling before dropping to about 4.5 amps. I am thinking of still buying a new alternator anyway. That is the only think I can think of. Worse case, I just have a spare in the back of the truck.
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It appears mine is rubbing against the battery tray in my 04 6.0. It just flops around when I push on it. It's not bolted to anything.
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Our 2011 SD 6.7. 190,000 km Came home after a week off and started the truck up via the command start, when I got in it the little red battery icon was lit up on the dash. Well this is my 3rd SD and in the past I always ended up needing an alternator when that light came on. So off to the dealer and was about to replace it, the service rep. stated the alt. was ok and there was something else wrong and it was turning the light on.
So you think here goes my next weeks pay looking for the Needle in a hay stack. Guys the Tech who is a great guy found a 18 guage red wire that runs from the pass. side battery under and infront of the motor not in any real wire harness and it goes to the alt. had some corrosion forming in under the insulation causing some resistance, and it was telling the system to turn the dash light on.
The tech replaced the bad wire and all is good now. Also you can test the out put of the Alt. and it will show around 15 volts with the truck running even with the red icon on, so you will know it's the bad wire and not an Alt.
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I'm not near my stuff--is the battery cable terminal bolt 8mm?
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I spent a lot of time on the 7.3 forum, but I'm still new to the 6.0, so bear with me.
I've noticed that when I start my truck the battery voltage (as shown on SCT Livewire TS) often dips down to 11 or even 10.5 volts. The batteries are almost new, dated March 2016. When cruising down the highway voltage is about 12.7-13, sometimes a little higher. The alternator is also less than a year old
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