Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Possible Plugged Oil Cooler Or EGR Cooler?
Jul 7, 2015
I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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Just found out that my EGR cooler is bad. How big of a job is this/how much down time if a compatent tech is doin the job?
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I just replaced my oil cooler and 500miles later its clogged again. Delta reached 40F.. No fun... I replaced it with the factory ford cooler and installed the coolant filter but I guess when I did the first flush I missed sum gunk.
So my question to you PROs, should I reflush/restore again then replace the cooler? OR Go with one of these??
- Coolant-to-Liquid Oil Coolers
- IPR External Oil Cooler Kit for Ford 6.0 Powerstroke
The budget is tight, but I gotta keep the truck going.
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I'm considering the BPD cooler MINUS the filter. Anything wrong staying with the original filter?
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Well it looks like I'm going to have to put a new oil cooler on my truck. Does ford have an upgraded version or do they still offer the same cooler?
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Is there a way to fill up the reservoir for hpop and cooler after replacement? I didn't want to burn down the starter and kill batteries cranking all day until everything is full. I did the usual upgrades on the motor and about ready to try and get it started up. Where does the oil drain to when filter is removed?
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My dad's 03 has had some work done after his oil cooler was clogging. New oil cooler, egr delete, head studs etc. The oil temp seemed to run some what high when he got it back. After a couple interstate runs on cold days 15-20 degrees, the water ran around 185 and oil as high as 218 but usually a bit lower. What's going on here? how could this thing be clogged again? It hasn't seem to gotten much worse since we got it back but not better either.
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Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
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2004 6.0 90k miles... Oil cooler plugged & coolant puking due to egr cooler flash boil.
Flushed the coolant with tap water then replaced water pump and tstat weekend before. This week backflushed heater core & block. This weekend backflushed the oil cooler. My coolant system would be considered severe contamination due to tap water use resulting in rust. Average ect was 195-205 & avg eot was 230-240 before flush. Here's a baseline before flush.
Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac. The pressure was pretty intense holding the hose into the bore just running water through it. Hit the trigger about 20 cycles of water then air blasts.
Filled with 1/2 gal of restore & tap water. Ran it for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Then dumped restore while hot, was pretty cloudy but not that dirty. Let engine cool then filled with tap water, ran for 10 mins then dumped again. Stuck hose in degas with only the the drivers block plug pulled & revved engine a few times to have the water pump push any crap out. Pulled the oil cooler exhaust cap, opened both block drains, pulled lower radiator hose, & hooked up otc blast vac again. This time the back pressure on oil cooler was much less vs first time.
Took a mason jar with restore plus in it & boiled it in water. Got it up to 190 then poured it directly into the oil cooler & let it sit for 30 minutes. Then backflushed again.
Put rest of the whole gallon of restore plus in & topped off with tap water. Ran again for 2 hours with RPM 1k+ 95% of the time. Drove at 65 mph & grabbed some peak temps.
Dumped restore plus while hot & it was very green & contaminated with rust. Topped off with tap water, ran for 10 mins at 190 then dumped. Revved the engine again with hose in the degas bottle & only drivers block plug out to blow more junk out. Filled with tap water & dumped again.
It was late last night so I filled it with distilled & parked it. Plan to do 3 straight distilled water flushes this week running rpm 1k+ for 1 hour each time in hopes to rid all the chemicals.
The backflush didn't result in lower deltas, but it didn't puke from the degas bottle at all during both chemical flushes. The oil cooler definitely needs replaced but at least it's not puking anymore & will hopefully stay this way for about 1k miles of driving so I can let the coolant filter rid anything that breaks loose during driving. My hope was to get some sort of flow across the egr cooler to stop the flash boiling puking & get as much junk out of the system as possible. So I guess there's some sort of achievement in the end.
Currently running cheap regular green (mixes with all) elc. I am running the cheap stuff because when the coolant was puking a gallon of coolant every trip i couldn't justify upgrading to the Rotella ELC yet. Plan is to flush with rest of restore(1/2 gallon) after oil cooler r&r then switch to Rotella ELC.
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I thought I remember a posting about removing the radiator to do the cooler because it made it easier to work standing in the engine bay with the engine in front of you instead of leaning over and removing everything from outside ? I'm getting ready to do my 4th external oil cooler? And is it difficult to remove radiator, and/or worth removing it ?
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]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
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My orange one leaks, bought a blue one. How the heck to I install it? I have decent tools.
I reviewed the threads on coolant flush and fill, and bought a coolant filter kit, I will be doing that at the same time.
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Is the irp high flow oil cooler any good? Or is it better to stay with the oem
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What is the consensus on this setup? Is it worth the money? Or is it more hype than function? Their logic behind it definitely seems to make sense.
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After pulling my fifth wheel, I will unhook and the truck sits. The next morning, the truck will sound like it is wheezing for about a minute or so... I high pitched whine sorta. But only on the cooler mornings, after towing.
Thoughts on this? Can't really take it to the dealer yet because its too sporadic.
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Truck has never been flushed. Would you try and back flush through oil cooler or just do a regular flush according to the procedure in the tech folder?
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Long story short: Got EGR Cooler and Oil cooler installed last week. New headgaskets and bolts. New down pipe. New orings on injectors. HPOP was installed 3 months ago before any of the above work.
Truck drove great for about 100 miles. Then stalled at a stop light. Restarted it. Drove another 10 miles. Truck then dies on me at 25mph. Wouldn't restart immediately. 10 minutes later it started. I drove it back home (couple miles). When i hit the last stop light, the idle immediately changed to crap. Very rough. Got home and parked it and since then I have not been able to start it.
I changed the EGR Valve, tried to start it and it wouldn't. Changed IPR Valve. Put all back together. No start. Cranked beautifully. But doesn't sound like it's taking fuel. note - no buzz/clicking from injectors and no fuel pump noise.
Here are my readings. FICM Sync - 1. I am stumped. I did recommended KOEO, checked emergency fuel switch reset, batteries are at 13.5 avg, checked harness wires and found one connector that wasn't snapped in cause the retaining clips were broken. Getting this connector replaced. Found another wire below chaffed. It is on the intake manifold. what is it for and could this be my problem? Pic below? This is where it connects to intake chaffed. The top of the two wires where they go into the connector were twisted around each other. Maybe wire to wire, maybe not. Would this cause my injectors to not buzz or fuel pump to not come on???
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I am sure some of use around the forums have seen some of Diesel Tech Ron's videos, well in this video he is installing one of Bulletproof Diesel's remote Oil Coolers on a 6.0
Bulletproof Diesel's remote mounted oil cooler install on a 6.0 Powerstroke - YouTube
I like the idea of these if you ever have to do any work on the Oil cooler or replace it it would make it pretty quick and you don't have top spend a day tearing the engine apart
I haven't hear of too many people having issues with remote coolers set up's like this. Maybe there are some remote oil coloer owners that have em that can shed some light on how they have worked so far on their 6.0's ...
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I had a bunch of down time from knee surgery and needed to replace the oil cooler. All OEM parts were used except for egr cooler being sinister that came new but hadn't installed. Truck ran fine but deltas were getting 20-25 while unloaded. I have replaced some of the pigtails when needed, but having it apart for the other work. I looked very close at the main engine harness which was oil soaked and carefully unwrapped it checking for any problems. A couple of the pigtails were replaced and all re wrapped with abrasive type tape. All connections looked good but hit the key and no start just cranking over. Did it a couple more times and it fires but rough. Trying again and it's sounding new. Shut off re try no start. I didn't touch anything other than egr cooler oil cooler and wiring harness...
Koeo. Koer
Ipr 14.8. 33.4
Icp. 2. 950
Icv .23. 1.09-1.43 fluctuated
Ficm in 12.9v cranking 48.5 and 48.5 running.
Batteries are fully charged with trickle chargers
13.9 at batteries
Fuel bowl is 57 then 55 if it starts.
Every so often it's showing ficm sync 1 and sync 1 and starts and runs smoothly. It's non consistent. I've checked continuity and get from pcm pins 2ohms resistance. I'm thinking wiring harness but really cleaned it and checked it thoroughly. I've hit the wall. How to track down my issue?
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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2 1/2 years ago I installed a BPD remote oil cooler with BPD filter. The stock oil cooler was clogging up for the second time and didnt want to chance it. The BPD oil cooler works great. I have never seen high oil temps in any driving condition. Last week I was replacing the hubs and seals on the front of the excursion and noticed the oil was leaking from the 90 at the end of the hose oil filter location. I called BPD and sent them a picture. The 90 is corroded and is failing. They said something about a 2 year warranty but because of the rust they would not send one out for free. I purchased a new hose and the other 90 that goes right after it.
They recommended that I spray it with undercoating or something. I live in upstate NY and deal with a lot of salt on the roads in winter. I do keep the truck clean in winter as much a possible. I am posting this so if there are any others in similar situation you should do something to prevent that 90 from rusting like mine did. If I had known this when we installed it prob would not be replacing it now. Will be replacing it tonight or tomorrow. BPD said I will need a 1 1/4 crow foot or remove the turbo to get to the other end of the hose. Not posting this to bash on BPD just sharing so any others can prevent this part from rusting out.
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