Sitting at a light. I noticed a slight vibration while in gear. Get home. Put her in park and noticed it again. Took her for a spin again. It seems to do it at low speeds, cruising and goes away once I'm on it? What would be a good starting point to track this down?
View 2 RepliesJust started to get a vibration in the last couple days. When giving it fuel there is no problem. when i let off the fuel it begins to have a slight vibration as it slows. even does it if i pop it into neutral. took it for a ride last night when i noticed it. wife sayed been going on for a few days. after just a 6 mile ride i crawled under and tried to check the joint but when i stopped i was not on level ground so have tension on the shaft but did notice that the rear joint was warm after just that short of a drive. not hot just warm compared to the other 2. it is a 2004 F250 SD 6.0DSL 4X4
View 2 Replies2004 Excursion... 1st time into a 6.0 for me so I took my time. Truck has 192000miles.
PHP Ficm atlas 40, 58V Swamps
SCT Tuned via X4 (recently)(Extreme street at the time)
Synthetic 0w30 summer and 0w40 winter.
FORD filters ALWAYS, 5000mile intervals no pushing it
FORD fuel filters, BOTH regularly.
Studded, AFE Stage 2, Liberty EGR Delete.
42's, 4:88's with Detroit in rear
Highway driving and feel a stumble. Weird, then another, ok that wasn't a bump. Then steady rough idle and a heavy vibration when I lightly got back up to speed to get myself home.
Had new filters so started there. Just changed in the spring here and they were in pretty new condition but swapped them out anyway. Stripping the cap, 120 bucks and had to put a new one on.
Start truck and still rough idle, test drive and still a bad vibration.
SO, I read and search. Scanning with Ford or AE are my number one priorities and they were done along with Fuel pressure check.
Scan revieled Inj 6 out, fuel pressure at 60 PSI. We pulled plugs off injectors with results except 6, confirming it's not working.
Ordered an injector and the Aliant Power rebuild kits to freshen up the other 7.
Disassembled all 7, NO stiction problems at all and all 7 spool valves were clean as a whistle. Bodies of injectors were good on 6 of them and had a screen in cyl 3 what was completely gone (the 3 screens around the body of the injector). Tip was also plugged but one hole. (used brake cleaner in tip and air to confirm 6 holes were clear) Used the body of the core on that injector but not the spool part. Replaced all O-Rings incl the seal inside the top where rail snaps into. Sanded spools (800grit 2-3 turns) and installed same way they came out. Stem pipes and dummies new as well.
Reassemble, carefully and fire truck. WOW....running abit rough but smoother. Ive read it takes abit to get air out of system and to expect longer cranks ect. Shut it down. INspect for leaks. Button up the ficm, and few other things. Re-fire truck with abit longer of a crank. Fires and running smooth. HERE's where it starts acting up again. I can feel a small stumble....then another....then full time again. Exact same as before. Pull 6 off and it's that injector again.
Here's the big mistake I made. Reinstalling injectors, I put the new one in #4 spot and number 4 in 6's spot. Not smart, I know.
Pulling inj plugs off around entire motor while running and def No 6.
Put things away, call buddy and he says possible FICM. or harness.
So i pull inj harness and OHM every single pin and map it. 100%, I go grab his "good" ficm and test with that. HOLY COW, FOUND IT. Started great... Then as she warmed up ICP at650ish, EOT ECT getting to 100-110F (only a 4-5* delta always monitor) is starts to vibrate and run rough again.
Read some more....OHM testing is one thing, actually load testing harness confirms if it's actually no good. Harness is 450 bucks plus our lovely 13% tax so I want to diligently cross this bridge. Grab a harness off a running 6.0 and test next day.
Fires up and runs smooth. Then, as temps come up it starts again. Walked away last night and when I fired up this morning. Started great and as she warmed up vibration was back. Along with a intermittent squeak from the turbo housing area.
Codes.... SCT X4 tuner is reading nothing DTC's and hasn't since day one so I "assumed" no codes until buddy scanned with AE and since it's last WiFi update wouldn't connect to computer and gives me error code 10007 when I try to tune. **Ended up fixing last night, went into another "Tune revision update" and now connects to my computer AND returned my truck to STOCK and resested truck. Still running rough.
So I plug my PHP FICM tuner and get codes:
P1102 "Unkknown" (reading here I had my AFE off and not plugged in)
P0113 Intake air HI input
P0284 Cyl 8 cont/bal Fault
P0603 Internal control Module KAM error
P0611 FICM Perf (58v swamps, I've read always throws this code and I've had that code since day 1)
P0676 Glow #6 fail
Lastly I'll add, no smoke out tail pipe at all during all testing minus the black puff when tune loaded.
Trying to track down a vibration issue. Not steering. But, idling in gear and driving. I feel the vibration through the go pedal and floor board and seat on driver side.
Checked obvious points. Down pipe, complete exhaust system. Motor mounts, tranny mounts and steering.
Got to be some other spot I'm missing. Checked driveshafts. Everything seems OK.
Late build 03 f350 auto, I got a p0500 code and noticed sometimes after 2rd-3rd gear engages theres a shudder or fast vibration for few secs unless i let off, it didn't start this till i took batteries out, where is the location of the vss at, I am seeing some say at each wheel, on top rear diff, on top back of trans so not real sure?
View 7 RepliesSo I have just over 14k on my 2015....... I love the truck but have had a few small issues. I had a water leak coming in from the roof that would leak through the grab handle. Nothing major dealer replaced one clearance light seal and they said the windshield needs to be re sealed.
Then I had a god awful irritating squeak in the dash..... It only does it late In the day when it's been hot. The dealer said it was a loose air bag. I have had the truck back a week and it's doing it again.
Those are little issues that will get resolved...... I hate having problems with a brand new vehicle but I understand it happens and that's what warranty is for.
I also reported a bad shake to the dealer...... The truck will shake very violently and have a very loud "diesel" sound. It's very specific at when it occurs. It has only done 4 times in the past 6 weeks including today. The odd thing is the 4 times it has done it has been the same time of day in the exact same spot on the exact same road!!!!
Basically I leave my office sit in some traffic and by the time I get to the parkway it has been35 minutes or so. Only happens in 6th at 60 which is roughly 1,400rpm a slight load due to a small incline and it shakes real bad! The typical "diesel" sound you get when under a load is very pronounced almost to a knock. It will continue to do this as you slowly increase throttle until it down shifts and then goes away. I also caught it doing it and I manually shifted to 5th and it went away.
Because of the rpm at which it happens with slight load only doing it in 6th I lean to a Trans issue and more so a converter problem. It feels like converter shutter. I just don't understand the engine sound.
I gave very descriptive info to the dealer..... Several techs drove it and could not duplicate. I just picked the truck back up last Thursday and the dash squeak is back and the shake happened yesterday and again today. So I am a bit irritated to say the least.
I really hate the fact that I know there is a problem but I also understand if a tech can't duplicate it he can't diagnose it. However today I did get a video of it with my phone so they will know I'm not making this crap up!
Recently I have a vibration that I can feel slightly through the steering wheel. If I'm driving down the highway doing 70mph + I have a noise coming from the front end. Also while driving let's say 40mph and below and I let off the pedal to slow down I can here a vibration in the front that kind of sounds like a small Jake break. And when going over anything bumpy I hear like a popping metal sound. This popping sound has been going on for a long time and still can't figure it out. I replaced all my shocks thinking my old set was bottoming out. Nope, still have the same problem.
I jacked up the front end yesterday and checked for movement top and bottom and side to side thinking maybe the wheel bearings or ball joints were going. Everything is solid. Spun the wheels and no noise, no grinding, nothing. I can't figure it out. I have not removed the wheels to check and see if a caliper is loose. I will be checking that next. I did notice while looking around that I can push up on my pitman arm on the steering box. It's not a huge amount of movement but I can still move it. I can also see teeth marks between the box and the arm, not sure if that is normal or not. When I do move it up and down it sounds a lot like that metal popping sound I have been hearing. So, I know this is a lot.
A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
I'm looking at a 2001 Excursion with 242k miles. Truck is all stock, and everything checks out well. The only thing is there is a slight vibration at idle, that increases quite a bit when the engine is revved to about 12-1500rpm. Ran a CCT, and #8 was flagged. I know that can be somewhat normal depending on the CPS, right? Otherwise the truck is smooth, and in great shape. Should I be concerned about what feels like a slight miss on #8?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 RepliesEarly 99 F250 7.3 Manual 4WD Extended Cab Short Bed
I am at a loss. I have a slight vibration/medium roar seemingly coming from front. I have tried fixing/replacing several things, with no luck. When I get above 35-40 mph, I can hear a whirling vibration that sounds like tire tread noise (very little tread on tires). When I tap the brakes, seems to make a difference, seems to get louder as I slow down. I can feel it in the clutch and accel. pedals. It is consistent, when I push clutch in and let idle at 45mph, it is still there. Doesn't seem to make a difference when swaying back and forth, maybe a little. When i get below 25-30mph it isn't noticeable.
Here is what i've done so far :
1.Replaced both front wheel bearing assemblies, rotors and brakes
2.Replaced drivers side brake caliper (seemed to be sticking a bit?), will do passenger side tomorrow
3.Serviced both hub locks and verified front axle is not engaged (one was locked for some time, I thought I found issue, but still have vibration)
4. Tightened pitman arm joint, was slightly loose (need to replace)
5. Inspected tie rod ends and other joints, see no noticeable movement, but have not marked them off the culprit list.
6. Tightened output shaft nut, was a little loose
7. Raised rear end off on jack stands, and revved up to 50 mph, and no vibration, so I have excluded u joint and cardan joint, everything points to front end
8. Rotated tires, left front to right rear
What I haven't done :
1. Have a leak in pinion seal, not replaced yet
2. Seems the upper and lower ball joint had the slightest, I mean slightest play in it when lifting the front driver side wheel (I mean less than 16th inch) but could hear it. I haven't done anything with this yet ... may be the problem? Would a tire out of balance wreak this much havoc with this amount of movement?
3. Haven't replaced the pitman arm joint, will but not sure if this can create issue.
Nothing I've done seems to make a difference.
i bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
So I recently had the head gaskets done at Ford. All is good but there is a slight drip from the blue EGR hose. It made a 3" circle on the driveway after 8 days. Coolant level is still fine. I really don't feel like dropping it back at Ford. Think I can just twist the hose to tighten it a bit or is a new hose in order? It is only 2 yrs old and was not replaced with the head gasket work.
View 10 RepliesI have searched and have found a few threads on various transmission shifting issues. However nothing really pertaining to 13+ trucks that is only happening under certain conditions. It seems earlier trucks with problems were experiencing it all the time, not intermittent.
Here's what I got.... This only happens when:
- temp is 20 degrees or colder
- Truck has been sitting and is cold
- Trans temp under 70-80 degrees
- Only happens on the 3 to 2 DOWNshift when cold
The first few downshifts from 3 to 2 have a slight clunk/bump to them...just enough to feel it. After the first few initial downshifts from 3 to 2, it will not do it then, shifts fine and smooth. After a minutes of driving it, it will not do it until the next time it meets the list of items above. If I skip this gear manually until it has warmed up, it will not do it when returning to it.
-All other gears both up and down shifting feel good just the 3 to 2 when it does happen.
Once the transmission is warm or the temp is warmer outside the problem is non-existent and transmission shifts great in all gears and is smooth as butter!
I've had the Titan fuel tank installed for about a month now and am loving the extra range, although this morning I walked by the truck and got a slight whiff of diesel by the fuel filler door. I pulled out the flashlight to take a look, and noticed a really small, faint trail of diesel fuel running down the driver's side of the tank near the rear strap.
I crawled under the truck to inspect it as best as I could in the driveway, feeling around the sender, filler, and vent tube connections, and didn't notice any obvious puddles of diesel. About the most I got was some dampness around the sender unit seal, but it wasn't much, and could even be residue from the fuel lines dripping during installation of the tank. Based on where the trail down the side of the tank has formed, my best guess is it's going to be a filler or vent tube hose clamp that I didn't get tight enough.
Unfortunately I just filled the tank up last night and am headed out camping for the weekend this morning. I followed all the install instructions exactly, making sure to check the torque on the sender unit seal four times before installing the tank back in the truck because I didn't want to deal with any leaks, so I really hope it's not that seal. I also filled the tank up to the brim right after install and crawled all around it a day or so later and noticed no dampness or leaks. Needless to say, I'm not looking forward to dropping the tank again and then potentially waiting on parts if something is defective. I'm waiting on a call back from Titan to get their advice.
Below are a couple pics of the weepage. Obviously not a huge leak, but something I want to get taken care of ASAP.
I've got a slight surge that's very noticeable cold and not so much after warmed, I can hear the turbo surging and feel a slight power increase on and off, checked with forscan the normal values, alls inline, I did not ck fuel pressure yet but will, I noticed vgt, boost fluctuates when this happens, icp ipr readings inline, this is a 04 with throttle plate inside the air elbow area, can this cause a surge and how to test this, I am not familiar with this setup as my 05 does not have it.
View 6 RepliesI already have my suspicions, since my wife's GMC did the same exact thing a few months ago. I hear a slight hissing noise from my dash, when running my A/C. I took the system off AUTO, to see if it was caused by the automated venting system, but it kept doing it. I have noticed it the past week, and its becoming a little more pronounced. System still blows cold. It does seem that it takes the truck longer to get cool in the afternoons lately, but it might be due to it being so hot lately.
My wife's car did the same thing and blew cold air for a while....until the hissing became constant and very loud. Turned out, she had a leak from one of the hoses. Dealer replaced it, and find ever since. I'm thinking my system has likely developed a leak and has reduced system refrigerant pressure. Any other possibilities?
I have been ignoring a slight aggravating shake in the steering wheel for quite some time. I just assumed tire out of balance or slightly warped front rotor or some ball joint work due to approaching 80,000 miles. Well the slightly warped rotor became much worse so i dove into the front brakes. Long story short it ended up being the rear brake rotor/caliper sticking transferring the vibration to the steering wheel. With two other vehicles to maintain i missed/neglected the rear hardware on the truck. So keep the rear brake hardware on your radar for a front end shimmy. Its gone now and a pleasure to drive again. I do have the crew cab and 8' bed which gives the rear end a long lever.
View 1 RepliesWell, last night I took my F-350 up a wheeling trail. I'd been up quite a few times in my old Rover, so I knew I could go a ways in without damage. Just uphill, muddy, and ruts / rock steps.
One thing I notice is that when you engage low range in the diesel, the transmission starts in 2nd gear. My previous gas Super Duties always started in 1st. I'm assuming this is to protect the transfer case from torque overload. Also, the throttle response seems to change when low is engaged (the pedal becomes less responsive, which is nice).
I've had the gas Super Duties off road before, and all of mine have had the locking rear diff. The diesel lugged along perfectly. My biggest fear was crunching the DPF / SCR / DOC canister on a rock step. In that respect, I'd rather wheel a gas. The manual shift function makes a lot of sense in low range - you can force a start in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. And prevent meaningless up / down shifts since the grade can change quickly.
These trucks' biggest hindrance is their size. However, if you have the trail room, they are actually excellent off road. Many people look at a Super Duty and see a vehicle good only for pulling or hauling. Not so, these trucks are as good as a Jeep off road, again with trail room being the only concern. The locking rear diff was never really needed, but I engaged and disengaged a few times to keep the mechanism free. I really love this feature.
One thing that happens frequently for me in north-east wheeling is water crossings. Could be a simple brook but mostly it is mud holes encountered on tight trails. In some cases these are only a foot or so deep; in other cases they are 4 feet deep. Ford states to "try" to keep the water below the level of the hubs, which amounts to about 15". Aside from possible front axle contamination, my biggest concern would be the electronics on the diesel which are mounted to the frame or floor pan (transmission module, NOx module, etc.) The gas Super Duties don't have these concerns. In the old days, as long as a diesel had air, the engine would run under water. This engine requires electronic control of many things, including the injectors...so it won't. There are also some axle / transmission breathers which run about floor pan high to be concerned about, but these can be easily extended.
Maybe it's due to the twisty frame which GM loves to insult Ford about, but these trucks have excellent wheel articulation. I'd be surprised if a coil sprung power wagon flexed more, at least in the rear. I'm impressed.
Finally, the traction control. I experimented a bit on a slippery rock step. This was the only step which required the rear locker - sort of. The front wheels climbed the step, but the back flexed to the point of one rear wheel basically almost off the ground and severely unloaded. With 4x4 Low engaged, and traction control "off" as much as Ford will allow, the truck could not pull itself up. Turning traction control on allowed the truck to very nearly pull itself up. A little more throttle / finesse probably would have gotten the truck over, but lots of ETC operation glazes the brakes and spews brake dust everywhere. Being able to start in a higher gear manually really adjusts the torque control. Locking the rear end and the loaded wheel bit right in and she went up and over.
When doing some off-road driving, the "off-road" screen for those of you with the LCD message center is kind of fun and informative to watch. It's nice to see how far your wheels are turned left or right when spinning in ruts or what crazy angle your truck is on. Howie Long could probably document the exact up / down / left / right slope angle a Super Duty needs to be on in order for the tailgate not to open. I never had an reason to open the tailgate while in these crazy angles, of course.
Overall, very impressed. It's not as good as my old Range Rover, but I would say more talented off road than ALL other Ford vehicles except the Raptor.
While I had my glow plugs out to crank the motor for the HPOP work I have done I checked the compression on all the cylinders. 6 of the cylinders were 275-280, got 250 and 110 on the others. I put oil in both the low cylinders and the 250 went to 260 and 110 went to 150. I pressurized the low cylinder and with the valves closed it was leaking out the exhaust manifold also had a small amount of coolant come out the water pump. Removed the cylinder head and didn't see anything unusual with the cylinder that was reading low in fact the if was the best looking cylinder of the four with nice looking crosshatch on the cylinder wall.
The other three cylinders has some slight brown haze on them which I assume is rust. This motor probably hasn't run in 18 months and the truck was a non-runner when I purchased as a theft recovery, no history on the truck. Taking the one head to a shop for them to check it out. What's the opinions out there with the low compression? Be ok once it runs and rings get coated with oil? The motor is out of the truck so maybe I should tear it down completely hone and put new rings in it.
I have been smelling a slight exhaust smell in the cab of the EX. I slide under the truck and looked at the up pipes and bellows. I saw a slight amount of soot on the outside of both bellows. So does that mean I have a leak? What is the most economical fix? Does the turbo need to be removed?
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