Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2012 - DEF System Fault - Reductant System Performance
Aug 8, 2012
Sunday I received the dreaded DEF system fault message on my 2012 CC SRW SB FX4 with 7800 miles on it. Warned me that speed will be reduced to 50 MPH in 50 miles. I have a CTS Insight, so I checked for DTC's. First one was P2200 - NOx sensor circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1), the second one was P204F - Reductant system performance (Bank 1).
After 50 miles it warned me that speed would be reduced to 50 MPH on next restart. Sure enough, Monday morning speed was limited to 50. I took it to the dealer, but I should have left it running. When the service guy started it, the fault had cleared and it no longer showed the P2200 NOx sensor code, although the P204f code was still there.
My question is, why in the world would Ford make it so that the code is cleared if the fault goes away, especially after putting you through the 50 MPH limit scenario?
Dealer did a reflash and said its OK now, but I'm not so sure. My trucks build date is 10/6/11. I read TSB 11-11-13 which states the NOx sensor module should be replaced for P2200 on trucks built before 10/11/11. Is that only for a persistent P2200?
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It says "reductant quality performance". I was reduced to idle the other day at the boat launch, with my boat. Called roadside assistance to come get the truck. They said they weren't liable for my boat, had to call a friend to come get it. Bring the truck to the dealer and he blames it on the DEF I bought, non motorcraft. I purchased ford DEF, siphoned the old stuff out and refilled with the ford DEF. Went out of town on a fishing trip and got the CEL again.
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My 2012 F350 Lariat has 6100 miles on it now and on the way home tonight I got a "speed limited to 50 mph in 50 miles" message on the display. It states that there is a "diesel exhaust fluid system fault". The def was topped off about 2000 miles ago and the message center says that the fluid level is "ok". I am going to be on the phone with the dealer first thing in the morning. This is my personal/work truck and if I can't tow a trailer then I can't work. My guess would be a faulty sensor. I have no doubts that the dealer will get this resolved quickly as they have been great about everything else. I also want to say that other than this, I am sure minor issue, this truck is awesome!
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Okay, so I have a 14' 6.7L, about 18,438 miles on it and the check engine light came on when I was at the gas station ready to leave, and so I took a field trip to auto zone and they scanned the CEL and it came back as P20BA - Reductant Heater 'A' Control Circuit Performance and they said I need to change out the pump assembly so I took it to the dealership and they cleared the code which worked for awhile, about 4 months ago the light came back on and I'm wonder if I should get the pump/heater changed out or get it deleted? The warranty is going to end in august this year..... It's been fine no issues with the truck, even tho I drive with the CEL on and just wondering what I should do? The CEL has been on for almost 5 months.
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My check engine light popped on for me a couple days ago. P2043-reductant temperature sensor range/performance. Truck still runs like a raped ape, no change in driveability. Just over 21k miles. No "speed limited to 55" messages or anything else. Basically no change in the truck other than the light.
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My check engine light just came on and a few miles later the "exhaust fluid system fault" also came on. I plugged in my scanner and these codes came up:
P2479 b1s2
P2033 b1s2
P050E
P0231 b1s2
I'm assuming these mean bank one sensor 2 is bad. Need to verify? I don't remember all these codes when the #4 sensor went bad.
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I had a ford technician plug in and check my CEL. Says P246E, Bank 1 sensor 4, exhaust system fault. I am leaving for holidays in a couple of days but dealer to busy before I leave. Is this something that will leave a guy stranded on the side of the road? I've already been towed once...
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2014 F250 Diesel... I got the msg saying 50 miles until speed limited to 50 mph. None of the earlier warnings re adding def. check def on computer and it said it was ok. I even added def and it only took a small amount until it overflowed. It was more than 1/2 full. The error message did not reset. I drove it around for several miles and it still would not reset. Having it services as we speak, and the tech is still having difficulty running down the cause. He has done a regen,and reset the computer and etc and still has not resolved the issue..
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I bought my 2015 F250 last November, and this spring my check engine light comes on with the message exhaust system fluid fault with the anoyying speed limitation. Bring the truck back to the dealer and they just say add def fluid, so I just have them do it. 2 weeks later the message comes back, bring it back to the dealer and they tell me it "needs reprograming" they do the work, light goes off. two weeks later light comes on again. Dealer puts in new exhaust sensors and reprograms the truck.
This fix lasts a few months in the mean time the truck shutters really bad under regeneration mode. Talk to dealer they claim its normal. Finally this week the light comes back on again. Bring the truck to the dealer and Ford keeps telling them that it only needs reprograming but that doesn't fix the problem. The dealer wants to replace the computer but ford isn't letting them do it (the truck is still under warranty) . I am starting to get pretty mad when I went out and bout a 65k truck not to have these problems.
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Was just mulling over redoing part of the exhaust system on my truck. As it stands the original y-pipe is still intact but some bozo reduced the rest of the system down to 2.25 inch with an ancient glasspack for a muffler. Maybe he thought it would net some kind of benefit, maybe he was just throwing together parts from his backyard. Either way it's going, I'm planning to keep the Y-pipe but step it up to 3 inch with a Flowmaster chambered muffler and I just suddenly wondered if the position of the muffler in the system affects performance. If I put it directly after the Y-pipe the exhaust pulses would hit it sooner...
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I have a 2012 6.7 with a Spartan tuner. Threw this code a few months ago. Reset everything, trucks runs great, no issues. Never had this code come up again. I've looked it up and it says, "Internal Control Module Torque Performance". I'm just not sure what this means.
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I had CEL the other week scanned and found P2043 Reductant Temp/Sensor range. Light came on first thing after a cold start.
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I just bought a set of 2013 20" rims for my 2012 F-250. I can't seem to get the tire fault light to go off. I've gone through the "learn" process but it won't read them. Are the TPMS not the same between years?
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Recently while changing the oil, I noticed a great deal of white crystals around the Reductant Injector. This is the point where DEF is injected into the exhaust. There is a heat shield around the connection and that shield was moved up by the growing crystals.
The hose that connects to the injector is simply one of those press lock types, i.e., you press on either side of it to remove it, and it simply locks in place by pressing it on the tube. This is the point where it seems to be leaking.
I have been tracking my DEF usage pretty close and I seem to get around 4900 miles from five gallons of DEF. No towing whatsoever, daily commuter 30 miles a day.
It's a 2016 F350 6.7 PS with 12,000 miles.
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getting ready to do a cooling system flush per the instructions Cheezit posted a while back, which say "refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding in this section." I think I can figure out the drain and fill but how do you bleed the system?
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After all this time there's only a couple things about my 2012 6.7 I don't like, and one of them is the DEF system. I like the lack of smoke, and I REALLY like my warranty, but I don't like the acrid DEF exhaust smell and I don't like the amount of DEF fluid I'm going through.
So, looking for a kit to remove the DEF system but leave the truck otherwise untouched? I'd like to keep the DPF and not have to tune the truck, just eliminate the DEF and smell diesel fumes again.
I'm guessing this is a long shot given the amount of computer control of every aspect of the truck, but figured I'd ask anyway...
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So you can see from the photo my AC condensor is pretty well f'd. My AC guy at work says I prolly wont be able to straighten the fins back out. My ac in the truck works when it wants to. At idle pretty well but driving it warms up. Sometimes works great, usually when its cold out. I'm sure this mangled mess isn't working. My question is, replace just yhe condenser or so compressor and accumulator at the same time? I don't know what is actually wrong with the system and don't "want" to spend the extra $ on the other items if I dont need them. But I kinda feel like I might as well.
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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Where the air intake for the cabin air conditioning system is? The past several trucks I've owned had a cabin air filter which I replaced annually. They get filthy and I can see why this dirt should not get into the evaporator coil. It will reduce air flow and here in Texas we need all the air flow we can get (106 today). It shouldn't be too hard to improvise a filter to wrap over the intake (for a cheap fix).
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My friend has a 2006 6.0. Blew up the egr cooler and oil cooler and now the oil is full of coolant. Brown muddy messy muck. Oil cooler is out but I'm sure the coolant oil mixture has circulated so it's probably in the HPOP and the rails to the injectors and probably in the injectors too. Everything after the oil cooler is probably contaminated.
So, aside from draining the oil from the pan and sucking up the oil mix from the top of the block, (under the cooler. ..it's out but not the hpop) how do we get this flushed out without destroying anything else?
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So a little back story. Did the oil cooler a couple of years ago as the deltas were getting high. Coolant flush and new Ford gold. Also welded EGR shut and had PHP reprogram. That was approx 25k miles ago.
Well now I have to fix the EGR because it won't pass smog. But my truck is running hot again BUT only when climbing a grade while towing my toy hauler. As soon as I crest the Temps come down fast. Also my deltas are fine normal driving, which was not the case last time I did oil cooler. My deltas were off all the time.
Also when I shut the truck off and stand in front of it after driving I can hear the coolant system gurgling.
I will be tearing my truck apart next week to fix the EGR and was thinking of doing the oIL cooler but don't want to waste money if that is not the issue. How do you tell if the water pump is bad? Also the fan is working according to scan gauge but doesn't have the big whoosh and squeal like it used to.
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