Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - CEL Won't Shut Off With 2 Codes?
Mar 28, 2015
Alright so I'm a little frustrated at my truck for the last month. I have a 2013 f350 with 2 codes comming up. P0100-mass or volume air flow circuit and a U0106-lost communication with glow plug control module. I have an H&S tuner with the delete. I changed the MAS and it's still lighting up. The dealer is looking into it cause they didn't foresee any problems with the glow plugs either. I erase the code, shut the truck off and once I start it it's right back on! Frustrating!
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6.7 with 19k . Drove about 2 miles and noticed dash lights were flashing and ac was not working correctly . Pulled into garage shut off and truck wouldn't restart, no crank ! All my dash lights were flashing & dash was giving numerous messages.. At least I wasn't on my road trip 2 weeks ago! 3400 mile round trip. Truck was towed to dealer! My 6.0 never left me stranded & I had 3 of them..
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Not sure, it doesn't seem to me the dreaded fuel pump problem. Was driving on highway pulling my 5th wheel after going though the toll both it never went out of 3rd gear and motor started taping pretty bad, turned tow haul off and it shifted up. All along never seemed to lose power, as I was looking to pulled off high way and into A park in lot it started losing power then just shut off. All along this 2min ordeal the motor was knocking/taping. Seems to me like the motor blew.
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2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
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I just got 500 miles to empty message. On my next trip out I grabbed a 2.5 gallon at my local auto parts store. When I had 99.9 percent of the jug in, it actually started to spit back out. I got the rest in and figured I was done. It did seem strange that it only took 2.5 as I figured it was just about empty to get this message and 2.5 would only take me half way. Anyways, a few trips later and the message is still there. Do I have a bad level sensor or was it spitting out prematurely? Shouldn't 2.5 gallons have killed the warning even if it didn't fill it?
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0 and it has a startup kit installed. When I start by using the key works perfect. But won't shut off by key! I have to use the stop button on key fob to kill the engine. I'm thinking relay might be stuck? And the relay on start up kit is working? Key removed it doesn't diesel down, it runs like key is still in.
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Just to give you a run down on my truck. It's a 06 F-350 4x4 supercrew 6.0 with 78,994 miles. The trucks has been studded with Apr and aftermarket head gasket, Powermax turbo with a wicked wheel, RCD EGR delete kit, 5" turbo back MBRP exhaust, Driven Deisel regulated fuel return system, high REV valve spring kit, EBT sensor, 58volt swamps diesel FICM, edge evolution, within the last 4000 miles New oil cooler, crank sensor, cam sensor, IPR valve, ICP, batteries and lift pump. I think I'm missing a couple things but that's the layout.
Now for my problems recently took the truck to Florida from Illinois towing a 8500# boat. Before I left I had the oil cooler changed, Rotella T6 5w40 ,New filters And 2 bottles of REVX. The try k didn't miss a beat on the 1300 miles trek down. It sat for 3 days before coming back up lite truck. I was gonna drive straight thru and with 1100 miles down and 200 to go the truck acted like it was running out of fuel and died at 90mph. Fuel Gage read 1/2 tank to go.
After letting it site a 1/2 hr it finally fired back up and drove 5 miles before doing it again. This went on 3 more times. I even limped it to fill up the tank thinking the gauge was bad. Nope did it again And called for a tow truck. This was in mid october and 20 miles ago. Since then I've replaced fuel filters, lift pump, IPR, ICP, cam and crank sensors, sent the FICM in to have tested, replaced batteries. No the problem is worse. It Now has created a serious miss when it's cold till 90 then it Idles smooth but keeps dying on me like it did when it was towed.
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I am award of the problem. And hope to be one of the majority that never has to deal with the issue. But, if the problem were to happen and the code thrown could it be as easy as to pull over. And if you had a code reader that could clear code.
Could you simply clear the code and be on your way? If so, how far would you get before the code reappeared and you had to repeat the read and clear the code again.
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So today I was driving down the highway and my engine shut off. No sputter or any thing I had just filled the tank. I tried to start it and it wouldn't start. It's been hitting a dead spot at around 3000 rpm like its not getting enough fuel or something. Right now I'm thinking it's an ipr valve but would like to know if what was the cause and how did you fix it...
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My 2011 6.7 just started making a hum noise after shutdown. I've read that it might be the wastegate solenoid. Is there a TSB for this. My truck is tuned so hopefully my dealer will be tuner friendly.
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2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
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I am getting ready to go on vacation this weekend with my f350 and I was driving today when suddenly the truck shut down while going at about 25 mph. I tried to start it and it just kept cranking. I got it started 5 mins later and it threw a P0069 code. I drove for about 2 more miles and it shut down again, and started right back up. I'm guessing map sensor? This was the last thing I needed to happen!
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I am working on a 2007 F350 ambulance for a volunteer fire department. It run great, even with the key turned off sometimes. This is an intermittent problem. About every 10 times it is used the engine will not shut off when you turn the key off. The instrument cluster turns on and off as normal. The other odd part is if you leave the key in the off position when the engine does not turn off the RPM starts going up. I have not left it in off long enough to see how high it would go. It does not have a remote start and never has.
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Been noticing it more recently. After shutting truck down I would say 15-30 seconds after some type of pump or solenoid starts running and does so for another 30 seconds or so ( from the frontnofmthentruck). What this might be? Also have noticed it just once after starting I was walking around the front of the truck and heard this buzzing sound once again.
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I have a 2003 6.0 powerstroke I was pulling into a gas station when it shut off like you turned the key off. The dash lights work power windows, door locks , radio, headlights, everything works except the fuel pump and the starter. I have a juice with attitude on it as well and it won't light up when you turn the key on. I have checked all fuses and relays. The fuseable link tested ok.
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So I am out of town about 120 miles from home on a job. I was driving down the mountain road to the store and my tuck just shut down. Lucky for me I was able to get into a turn out. So I try to start the truck and it will not fire. I check for codes I am getting p2614, p2617 so I was able to clear the codes and get back to the house I am staying in. What is going on with my tuck. Oh ya the code did not come back on in the 15 min drive to the house. Also just finished up doing a y pipe and my egr o ring so I and the intake and all that off.
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I picked up a 2003 6.0 awhile back went ahead and did studs,gaskets, delete. Was driving it and seemed to lose power, started coughing and carrying on blowing bluish white smoke then shut off. Ended up hydrlocking #5, Oring on injector was tore when took out. Put all back together, ran horrible, did a balance test with AE, showed #3 injector, replaced, ran horrible, did AE dropped #1 injector. So in process of replacing the rest of the injectors. Just wondering why it is or was dropping them 1 at a time. Ficm was showing 47.6 to 48.6 volts, could that be it?????
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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I have a 2004 f350 6.0 and it makes 550 horsepower and lately when I go to started in the morning it'll start at once everything gets up to temperature if I shut it off it will not start again without starting fluid into the air box if it's warm...
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Just got this injectors done. Filled the tank up. Drove for 1/4 of a tank. Went to leave out yesterday. Made it out of my subdivision and down the road 3 miles or so. I was going 55 when the truck stalled. I tried to start the ignition it would turn over, but wouldn't catch to stay running. I did this at least 8 times. Friend came with Ether. Tried 3 separate times, truck started going dead. So i was about to give up... Tried it 1 last time, it fired up like a champ!
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Is there a way to shut off the TPMS? Can you adjust the working pressures? My 2016 F350 which I have had now for 3 weeks, has 65psi in the front and the rear is 80psi. which empty rides like a rock. I want to lower it down to 60psi (rear). This made a heck of a difference on my 2008 Dually. Think that will cause a light?
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