Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Instrument Cluster Won't Working At All?
Sep 28, 2014
I have a 2013 F250 with 49.575 miles and Saturday the truck left me stranded. I was towing my small trailer and doing about 45 mph.....When just out of nowhere .....I got every possible warning come across my display and none of my instruments were working. That included speedo,tach,boost....even the radio and ac were effected in some way. So after a few miles I was able to pull over ....cut the truck off and it wouldn't start.... So I had Ford roadside service tow it to my home dealership.
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So, went to drive the truck (2004 F250 6.0, 145000 mi) yesterday and the right half of my instrument cluster was not working (tach, trans temp and water temp), CEL and check gauges lights on. My scan gauges gives me readouts of all 3, so I know the computer knows the right values. Pulled all three fuses related to the cluster, all looked good. All gauges, including those not working, did full sweeps with key on after putting fuses back, so I know they function. Also, the glow plug light stays on way longer than normal.
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My right side of my instrument cluster is not working. the Tachometer, Engine Temp and Trans Temp gauge are non responsive, and the CEL and Check gauge light is on. I have seen other posts with people that had the same problem but no solution to what fixed the problem. 2004 F250 Lariat.
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My 06 instrument cluster has a few bulbs that are out. I have seen the video on how to remove and send off to be repaired but have not seen any thing on how to replace bulbs. Is this something that I can do myself? Is there "kit" to replace all the bulbs? Where can I get the bulbs? Here is a pic of my panel.....
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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I've been searching for instructions/procedure on how to remove the instrument cluster on my 2006 6.0 Superduty. My odometer has been showing the classic signs of a cold solder joint, cutting in and out constantly. It's been doing this for a couple of years, and I've taken it to the dealership, since it's still under warranty, however they were not able to find the problem since they were not able to witness the lighting go off and on. I figured I'd just do it myself and not even bother with the dealership if I don't have to. I've read the threads on how to fix the issue, however, everything I've found is for 2004 or older models. Are there any threads specific to the 2006? Or, is the instrument cluster on the 2006 the same as another year model? Maybe I can find this info. there.
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Got in my 06 F350 dually 2 weeks ago and after start up had no instrument indications. Truck ran great, flat line on panel. Tow haul light out also. Drove it for appx 5 miles, shazam all start working and then they cycled on and off for a while. After 10 miles, came on solid. Happened again at a later date.
Here's what I discovered. I noticed high voltage on my Scangage II. As in 16.2VDC. Monitored it coming back from a hunt. 14.9-15.5VDC. Would blank out only after hitting 16.2VDC. I'm suspecting there might be a cutout to protect the instrument cluster from damage.
Installed a new alternator on Friday the 13th. Drove home this weekend, 4 hours and no problems. Hopefully didn't boil off the batteries. Now 13.5-13.9VDC ... Just something to be aware of!!
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I am currently converting a 1999 E350 7.3 diesel bus into a camper to live in. The bus has already had a lot of weird custom work. Done by someone else and a lot of the interior torn out and extra insulation put in. There is an exposed electrical panel behind the drivers seat. It was a cheap buy, previously fleet maintained with only 120k.
I was hooking up a battery for accessories to a terminal labeled "Battery" that does run indeed directly to the + terminal of the battery in the engine compartment.
Unfortunately I mistakenly connected the accessory battery to a terminal labeled "ignition" that runs to behind the dash. When I tried starting the vehicle off the auxiliary battery for a test everything went out for 2 seconds, I heard a click from the engine compartment, and everything than came back on. This is when I realized my mistake.
It used to be the speedo only didn't work (which I assumed was the step motor), now after this mistake all the gauges, the odometer and the buzzers don't work. Lights like the battery and airbag warning indicator still function.
Checked fuse 2 (15 amp) for the instrument cluster and it is intact. Actually checked every fuse in the vehicle in both fuse panels and all are intact. The radio works though and the vehicle is not equipped with power windows.
Going to go get a radio removal tool to take apart the dash and get back there. What this could be? Did I fry a relay? Did I fry the cluster circuit board.
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Do the gauge cluster out of one super Duty will work in another truck, just plug and play? I have a 2015 550 that the fuel gauge has quit, which is causing the truck to go into limp mode because it will not allow a regen on the DPF. This is a business truck and i need it to be rolling. There appears to be a national back order on gauge clusters from Ford. I have another truck in the fleet that I could do without so I was wondering if I could just swap the clusters would it work?
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I was installing a brake controller and repair wiring at the seven pin today for a customer and noticed when I began work I have no power windows, power seats, or instrumentation on the dash. Truck otherwise runs fine.
Got wiring for the brake controller straightened out and thought I could get the other stuff working, but I went through all the fuses and could find nothing amiss. Several comments on the Internet about a power saver relay board built into the back of the instrument cluster. Does that fit these symptoms?
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Hooked up to a bumper hitch trailer tonight with my 13 F350 and didn't have any lights but the brakes worked. Tested the bumper hitch trailer connector and there was no power on any terminals, with the tester still connected to the same ground I checked the trailer connection in my bed for my gooseneck trailers and everything was working. Just to check the trailer I hooked up my wife's 2015 F150 and all the lights worked. Can't figure out why my gooseneck connection works but not my bumper connector, also looks like my license plate lights are not working either.
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So I'm driving my kids to school, and this light pops up on the dash (with a chime, of course). So for fun, I had my son pull out the owners manual and look for it.
It isn't in the manual.. In fact, the book shows NOTHING in that cluster location.
Luckily I got a picture of it, 'cause it disappeared after about 20 minutes.
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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Have a '13 F150 Platinum. Recently three things "broke" at the same time and I suspect a fuse but cannot locate the right one. At first I thought it was just the GD Opener, but when trying to reprogram it, I realized the red lights were not lighting up and the Drivers side Vanity Mirror light was not working.
About the same time, I noticed that the Instrument Cluster Memory function quit working and weirdly, every time the truck is switched off and then back on, it always comes back to the trailer tow screen for my Snowmobile trailer.
I thought i had it solved when I found that the trailer back-up lamp relay power fuse ( #43 in fusebox under hood) was blown. I replaced with a good 15 amp fuse and the problems are still there. I have searched high and low and cannot find a fuse for the Car2u GD Opener or the Driver Vanity Mirror Light (neither Vanity light for that matter. I tested all under hood fuses, but the kick panel fuses are impossible to check one-by-one.
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I'm having a little problem with my F350. I've had it for about a month now and the cluster had no problems or whatsoever. Then, I drove it today and I noticed that the instrument cluster is not working at all. The lights work, but the gauges wouldn't move. When I turn the key before starting it the chime is beeping faster than it usually did before and it wouldn't shut off unless I close the door. It also only indicates the airbag and battery light. I checked all the fuses and they were good especially #15 or #16 can't remember it right now.
I don't know if its related, but this past saturday I was messing with the overhead instrument cluster for the gas mileage and all that. I soldered some of the relays back on and that was it. I started the truck after I did all that, but everything was still working. It's been bugging me all day today.
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The speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, battery meter, temp gauge and idiot lights went out. The car works fine. Dash is just dead. I did a quick look at the fuses in the glove box but it doesn't have the little card to tell fuse locations. So, I can't narrow it down but I don't see any blown fuses.
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I have an issue where the instrument cluster (tach, spedo, fuel, temp, door open indicator, etc) and AC stop working. It only happens under the following conditions and can be reproduced easily. All fuses have been check and are OK.
1.No Gauges
2.Remove and replace Multi-Fuse 20 (which is new and good)
3.Gauges and AC start working again
4.Drive car or start etc. and everything works fine
5.Power off car for exactly 1 min. or more with doors closed
6.Start car and no gauges or AC again
7.If wait less than 1 min. (tested 30 sec. to 59 sec. ) to restart the car and all gauges and AC continue to work fine
Where to start diagnosing.
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The instrument cluster settings has not been working and they would not set when i would try to do this.It would go back to the same setting as before.They checked it on the computer and everything would register like it was ok but the computer could not detect the fault.Come to find out it needs a new instrument cluster and that was the fix for it after they took three more Tregs apart to make sure it would either work or not work at all.They all worked except for mine.It is being replaced and shipped overnight.
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Instrument cluster (speedometer, Tachometer, Break & ABS light) is not working while driving.
My video for my 2009 camry 2.4 LE is here: [URL] .....
Toyota service center asked $6000 to replace wire harness and PROBABLY electronic control unit.
I found some posts, but the answers are not that clear to fix it. [URL] ....
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This is for my gf's 2010 sonata. The instrument cluster stopped working but then after a couple days it started again. Once again it stopped working. This time I checked the fuse and it was fine, there was power going to it. I was able to get it to start working again by disconnecting the battery. I hate electrical shorts. I have done some research but haven't come up with anything other than re-seat the cluster or replace it. I plan on doing that the next time it stops working. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the ignition, but i really don't know.
Engine codes are P0011/P0014/P0462
The P0011/P0014 are, i think, the oil control valve. I ordered that.
The P0462 code has to do with low voltage to the fuel level sensor, but the gas gauge has worked fine, well other than when none of the gauges work. Still I don't think it relates to cluster problem.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 mins after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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