Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Brake Controller Not Coming On Soon Enough
May 5, 2013
I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
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Adding a third axle to my dual axle 5th wheel toyhauler... was told I may need a different brake controller by someone on a different forum.
At first I thought they were talking about the one in the truck but I would guess the truck brake controller can handle atleast three axles worth of brakes. Now I am wondering if I have another "control box" on the camper somwhere.
I see many people pulling 3 axle trailers and I would assume you have brakes on all 3 axles. Am I good to assume the stock Ford brake controller can handle 3 axles with brakes on all of them ??
Does a trailer/toyhauler/camper have another "control box" somwhere that regulates the brakes as well ??
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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My Airlift wireless will not inflate my airbags-compressor does not run. It was working - only used it once since it was installed 2 months ago. Tried it this week- no joy. I get the error BL OC,(bloc) then sometimes FA IL. I called Airlift Friday and the tech said it sound like compressor might be bad so I should get 12 volts to the compressor and see if it runs. I did that and compressor runs fine. I also checked to be sure I have 12 volts going into the wire loom and I do.
When I try to inflate the using wireless controller, the manifold clicks but there is no voltage going to the compressor. Sounds like there is a breakdown within or between the receiver and/or manifold. I do see the wireless controller sending a signal but nothing happens except on click in the manifold. I guess I will have to wait until Monday to call again. It frustrating since it's Saturday when I am able to work on it but can't get tech support.
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I have a 07 f250 6.0l and it has 112k on it, I've owned it for over 4yrs, since 45k, and no issues, but this morning I went out to start my truck didn't start, tried again and started, but the glow plug controller made a funny buzzing noise, (making that noise for a few weeks), so I went to ford and bought a new controller, so I hope that fixed that, but on my way to work I was at a traffic light and noticed that my ficmv were between 46-48.5, icp 23-24%, vgt around 68%, truck was at temp, should I start to worry about the ficm??, I have to replace my ground on driver side battery, noticed that it is corroding, gonna do that, I have 2 yellow top optima batteries about 3 yrs old....
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My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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I am having an issue with the under dash plug for the brake controller on my 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty. I plugged in my Curt Brake Controller and figured all was good.
As usual with anything I do it isn't that easy. There is no power to the controller or the plug.
Is there a specific fuse I should check or even look to see if it has been installed because apparently this truck never had one installed even though it has a 7 blade plug installed and is plugged into the wire harness in the rear.
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My 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
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Is there one thing that when broken makes both the steering and brakes lose all power? Does the power steering and hydroboost share a pressure source?
My brake pedal is dead and I get no steering boost, but the master cylinder and PSP are full of fluid. Do I replace both, or replace one first to see if that fixes both? Or could it just be a hose leaking? Not sure how to diagnose this one.
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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Was out on a camping trip. Went to move the truck and it acted like the emergency brake was on. I put it in and out of park 3-4 times with the same result. Noticed when I took my foot off the brake, it went from 1st to 5th. One of the guys in our group said to turn off the truck, wait 10 seconds. I did and all is well again. There were no CEL lights or anything.
Have 2700 miles on my 2011 (bought new May)
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2003 F-350 dually. The brake lights will come on briefly then go off while the truck is sitting parked. Replaced the brake light switch on the pedal and it still does it.
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I just looked back and it has been since July 7th that my girl has been sitting in my shop. Well this past weekend I finally got her back together and started. It took a while to build pressure but she finally came to life..
While I am thrilled that she is running again i have low power before the boost kicks in and is idling rough with a blueish- white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Once i kick her a little she will get up and go but I've never had the smoke before.
I'm thinking maybe a bad injector???
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My battery light has been coming on and then going off, just back and forth, for a few days now. The light stays on about 80% of the time. I have new batteries and the alternator is about three years old. I've checked the voltage from the alternator to the batteries while the light is on and I'm getting 13.85 volts on the multimeter. I've checked and cleaned terminals just to be sure they are corrosion free and right, I've checked the ground to make sure it's right.
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The black rubber trim around the windshield is coming off on the top of the windshield. Vibrating away at an extremely annoying tone.
Been that way for a while just a small section, I'd just super glue it down and it would hold for a 1000 miles or so, then I would just do it again until it came off about 1/2 way across. At that point I just used Gaffers tape across the whole top - looks okay dark area of the truck and Dark red paint makes it so you cant notice the black tape at a glance. now that its getting hotter that's not holding but for 500 miles, which is about a week for me and gets annoying to have to stop on the fwy to fix it.
So its time to fix it right, but how?
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After installing the Sinister Diesel EGR Cooler, a new stock turbo, new EGR valve, and new #7 and #8 injectors, I am still getting the P0401 code. Each of those items needed to be replaced, by the way.
The motor runs fine; it just continues to throw the code. It has been to the dealer, and they can't figure it out. Is there a diagnostic procedure I can follow to hunt this elusive problem down?
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When I bought the truck it had some crap tires on it and the deal was that they had to put tires on it for me. I just picked it up and notice that I have a vibration at 40mph it then goes away by 45 then it comes back at 60 then gone by 65. The vibration feels like it is come from the rear.
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So for the first time in a while I started my truck when it was cold outside, 33 degrees according to the truck. It didn't do this at initial startup but when i started driving there was what i think steam coming from the exhaust because it dissipated fairly fast. It steamed slightly until i went to pull out of my neighborhood and got on it to get up to speed which was only 45mph. The oil temp was in the 90s at that point but when i got on the pedal the truck just started pouring white steam out of the exhaust.
Over time the truck warmed up and the steam stopped and everything was fine. Even when its warm outside the truck blows something when its not at operating temp but when its warm I can only see it at night when there's headlights behind me. Since I've had the truck the only thing that I've had to replace was the radiator because it was leaking coolant and even after that i still smell burning coolant occasionally and sometimes when i check my tank its low and then sometimes it never changes. Its very inconsistent.
The only other bad thing that's happened to the truck happened after i got my oil changed for the first and last time at NTB. They replaced the filter when they changed the oil but didn't pull the old gasket off when they put the new filter on and long story short i lost about a gallon within 30 minutes because of that and had my truck towed home. My engine light never came on or anything. I fixed the problem, added new oil and that was it. The reason I bring up the radiator, the coolant, and the oil is because i don't know if that could have anything to do with the steam.
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Not persistent, but the squeak I had where peeps thought it was the brake warning is back, but not constant.
Seems to happen above 30, and not sure what the other conditions are (maybe hot brakes). but it sounds like only the front right this time.
I've new Rotors and pads. I am on the road right now, been since the 20th and wont be back till the 2nd or 3rd.
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Any downside to using (enabling) the Exhaust Brake (aka 'Jake' Brake) all the time?
I ask since there is a switch to turn this on and off, and I wonder why. My experience driving fire trucks in a previous life was that the Jake Brake was always enabled (I do not recall there being any way to turn it off).
I suppose that on icy roads, it is probably a good idea to not have it on, but that is all I could come up with. Am I missing something?
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It just came on when I ran up to the gas station followed by the airbag light and the traction control light.. truck ran fine. I've tried looking this up found some people have had this message and there truck won't start.
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