Swapped out the orange covers for smoke ones on my truck and noticed that 4 out of 5 bases have cracks at the rear end of the lights. One screw would barely hold in as the plastic around the screw was all cracked which makes the hole larger. Is this a common issue?
View 9 RepliesWithin the last month I've had 2 cracked fuel filters the filter up by the engine...
View 12 Replies]I am in the process of swapping my oil cooler. When i pulled the smaller cover off of the cover that goes over the oil cooler, i heard a pop. The cover, not the one that bolts onto the motor the one that bolts to that, is cracked...bad. is there a place i can get one? need to know parts illustration with numbers?
View 14 RepliesI was chasing down a P2074 CEL and thought it was a stressed wiring harness connection on the MAF.
Took it to the Ford house and they chased it for 2 days, believing it was the MAF and air filter. They told me that air filter was allowing to much air in. My thoughts was, that is was what MAF is for, to regulate the fuel based on how much air was going in.
I just found out that they are stating that an AFE dry air filter contributed to a cracked intake manifold because the aftermarket air filter made the intake get too hot.
My question is can a cracked injector tip let gases back in the fuel system?
View 4 RepliesThis pump hangs down fairly low and appears easy for ice and rocks to hit on my 2013. Something hit mine and took a chunk out of the drain tube. No leaks yet but I am looking to get a new one and keep this as a spare, or just JB weld it. Can I just buy the lower section, or do I need to get entire pump?
Any creative protection bracket made? Would just have to take it off to change filter though. Any leak in this housing is a major show stopper when in the middle of nowhere! Maybe why it is getting brought into the tank on new models?
I need a film crew to document this stuff, but here's what I've got. This engine had a cracked piston. It is currently torn down and ready to go to the machine shop. I ordered a powder coating set up, so everything that fits in the oven will get powder!
This engine will get cut/coated pistons, cryoed forged rods, 250/100's, waste gated T4/S369, head studs, 910 valve springs, smith bros pushrods, etc. We'll also be using a Southbend dual disc clutch in front of the freshly rebuilt ZF6.
Here's some of the shiny stuff.
I think I'll give up a little top end to spool faster. Especially since this is a 6spd build.
Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
View 14 RepliesI connect the batteries and the overhead lights don't out, plus the theft light is blinking. Bad door switch maybe? I don't have the original Ford key
View 1 RepliesThe thing is the truck seems to run fine. But, when it hits 30 pounds of boost it goes in to limp mode. Good way to get yourself run over on a highway. I'm wondering if the computer or whatever has gotten off somehow and is sensing a problem too early ? Would a re-flash possibly correct this ? BTW, it is a 2005 with 63,000 miles.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 with 6.0 Crew cab
Wanted to change out factory bulbs to LED's. The factories were working just fine, just wanted LED's. Broke a couple of center bulb holder's/clamp. Don't really know what they are called. Went to junk yard got a couple of used ones, those worked because when we opened the doors on wrecked trucks Dome lights came on! Got home put them in and NOTHING. No dome, no map lights with LED's. Changed back to factory bulbs and only map lights come on, NO dome lights on front or back and my 3rd brake light quit along with the 2 bed lights. Checked the wiring plug and have power to one wire. What fuses would I need to check or to check where next? Owner's manual is not very specific about which fuse.
So this morning, I stopped for fuel. My low fuel light had come on yesterday, so I planned on filling it up this morning. Swung through the local Safeway (my usual fill-up haunt) and threw 25 gallons of diesel into my Excursion. Truck started up right away, like always, pulled around in the parking lot, pulled into traffic, then got stopped at a red light. I noticed a slight unevenness in the idle for a couple of seconds, then the light turned green. Pulled out, truck accelerated a bit more labored than usual, and in my passenger's mirror, I looked back and saw some light greyish blue smoke.
The smoke progressively got heavier, power diminished, and I was no longer able to maintain speed with traffic. I pulled off onto a side road, shut the truck down, and scanned for pending codes. Nothing. So I hoped that it was just a gremlin, started the truck again, got tons of the same smoke, really rough, super clattery idle, and the engine wouldn't even accelerate in park. No hint of boost, nothing. So I turned the truck off, called a tow truck, and had her flat bed hauled home.
Background on the truck, roughly 150K miles, changed the fuel filters not too long ago (less than 7K on them), recent-ish oil change, but I was planning one for later this month. Truck is all but stock, only an aftermarket cold side intercooler tube. I recently replaced my EGR valve, less than a year ago, because it was stuck partially open, replaced it and the truck ran great after that.
I've been seeing some scary writeups for similar things, stuff involving cracked pistons, bad rings, engine teardowns, new engines required, things like that. For me, it just seems like a ridiculously convenient coincidence that the problem would happen immediately after refueling the truck. At this point, I'm planning on replacing both fuel filters and doing an oil change as preventive maintenance and as the easiest possible fix, but what else should I be looking at? Some posts suggest FICM, some suggest ICP sensor, some are saying my injectors may be shot.
My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
i just installed a Dash Cam and it needs power all the time. Is there a way to tap into the dome light?
View 2 RepliesI started my '16 6.7 this am and drove it about a mile.
The check engine light came on and at the same time the display said "Reduced Power". I decide to turn around and try to make it back to my shop but shortly after turning around the display said "Low Fuel Pressure" and within a couple of hundred yards it shut down leaving me stranded by the side of the road.....
I called my local dealer who gave me the Ford Cares 800 number. I got a flat bed in about 1.5 hours which I didn't think was too bad considering I live in the country and they brought it to the dealer. The SA said it might be a couple of days before they could look at it as they were pretty busy... What it could be? The engine is stock with 9100 miles on it...
Chasing this knock and I'm starting to get a little bit worried. So I'm looking for what I should do next.
Here is the truck info... 2000 F250 4x4 206k. . Swamps Diesel 200/30's. Terminator HPOP. GTP38R. EBPV delete pedestal. Banks wastegate. AFE stage 2 intake. RiffRaff FRX. 4" exhaust. Hydra chip. John Wood Auto. 6.0 Trans cooler.
I have a knock sound coming from the area of #8. It is noticeably louder in that area with a stethoscope. Its not any louder anywhere else (oil pan, block, otherside of engine, or front). Truck does not smoke and runs and idles great otherwise. Was thinking possibly the cackle/fuel knock issue these trucks have but with bigger injectors and the FRX could this even still be a possibility?! Anyways here is what I've done.
Checked fuel pressure and at idle it is 61/62 with any tune. At WOT on Econ tune it goes down to ~40ish psi. With the extreme tune WOT dived down to 28/29psi. So my thinking was maybe that injector got screwed up so...
Swapped #8 injector with #2 so the front injector with the back to see if either it had some bad o rings or isolate the injector as the problem if the noise moved cylinders with the injector. While I did this I put brand new O-Rings on those two injectors and popped them in. Got it fired up and the knock is still in #8.
Unplugging the injector with the engine running the noise seems to disappear. HOWEVER, when I use the stethoscope the knocking noise still sounds like it's there but very faint. Without the stethoscope I can't hear it. Also driving the truck down the freeway and letting it coast the noise goes away when the injectors get cut off.
Recently pulled off valve cover and checked the pushrods and rockers on #8 and all looked fine. At this point I'm thinking wrist pin, rod bearing or cracked piston??? Could it somehow still be a fuel knock?
I have an 03 excursions with 6.0. I downloaded the sct livewire ts and the problem started. Through truck has no power the thief light flashes codes for cam and crank sensor and on when it acts up the glow plug light comes on. On the on the ts monitor it says no key in the ignition.
View 11 RepliesOk yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
I just wanted to share with you all a cautionary tale about belt tensioners and idler pulleys. I am now a firm believer in installing the aforementioned items when you replace your drive belt. 15000 miles ago I replaced the drive belt and didn't heed the warning of some here on the forum.
For the last month or two I have noticed what sounded like road noise which I dismissed because I had just had new tires installed that had a more aggressive tread pattern than my previous tires, I also noted that the ECT had been a bit higher than normal, like running in the high 190's to low 200's on average.
Well while driving today I get the alternator warning light and lose power steering and soon after the brakes got stiff, this was followed by ever increasing ECT which got to 242* before I could get it off the road and shut down. It is too early to tell if the noises and the ECT temp rise were the result of this tensioner going out...
For what its worth the only tools required were a 10MM end wrench and a bit of skin to get the job done.