Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Check Engine Light And Funky Boost Gauge
Feb 12, 2015
Noticed the other day when I went to leave a job site my Check Engine Light came on but the truck started fine and seemed to run normal. while cruising down the highway I noticed that my factory boost gauge was showing 35psi and fluctuating between that and around 10. looking at my H&S it was showing normal boost readings for the current driving condition, when I came to a stop the H&S would show 0psi but the factory one would fluctuate between 0 and 35-40psi..
I can tell the turbo is not spooling at all during this time. if I take off from a stop with the gauge showing 35 the engine sounds louder than normal at first take off compared to when the gauge is reading normal. I haven't gotten a change to get it in my shop yet to look it over but does the dash gauge read from a different sensor that what my H&S is reading? Truck is an '11 F250, deleted both EGR and DPF with H&S tuner. I checked codes and all I have is P06A7. Where to start?
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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2004 F-250 6.0 Turbo Diesel W/ Torque Shift Transmission. Im having a problem with my Check Gauge light coming on and Tow Haul light flashing on my 04 F-250. I got a Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor from my local Ford Dealership. They also said i needed to replace the Transmission harness for this application because of an open circuit.
My questions are, Is Mercon SP the only ATF that can be used on the Torque shift transmission and do i really need to replace the harness or just the sensor? I have read up a little on this and so far everything say's drain the fluid, drop the trans pan, swap out the sensor, replace the trans pan (torque setting is 11flbs I believe, correct me if I am wrong, replace with Mercon SP ATF and your good to go.
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Friday I pulled my steel gn 3 horse trailer about an hour each way. with the horses it weighs right at 7000 pounds. no issues. Saturday morning I drove to town, no issues. Saturday evening, I got in it to run down the road and about 2 miles from the house, the check engine light came on and the tow haul light started flashing and the temp gauge is dead. drives and shifts normal, tow haul button still functions. Truck is stock except for an EGR delete. No tuner, FICM was rebuilt. I had it on a battery minder before I left and was thinking about pulling the batteries and letting it sit for a while to see if it clears. Scan Gauge II shows no codes.
Sunday: So I let it sit all night, batteries connected and it was completely normal this morning. will see what happens when I drive it to work tomorrow
Later Sunday evening: So I just took it out for a test drive, went a couple miles down the road, shifting normal for a cold start. Temp gauge is working, just as I am almost back home. 5 miles at the most, temp is coming up to normal, gauge goes dead and check gauge light comes on and tow haul starts flashing. I think it might be the sensor.
This morning: I got about 6 or 7 miles from home, trans just got up to temp, pulling up a hill, it shifted out of overdrive, tft gauge went dead, check gauge light came on and the tow haul light started flashing. still shifts like it always has and the tow haul button still functions.
I am thinking it is just the temp sensor. Truck has 159k on it.
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My 04 F 350 started with a check gauge light while going down hill towing an 18 ft car hauler full of mulch. Did it for 5 seconds, then when we got to our land and I was getting ready to back up it did it again. and this time my oil pressure gauge was at zero. I shut her down. checked the oil. its full. Drive home everything is good. Today I'm getting fuel pressure gauge going nuts. 80 to 100 PSI. at idle no oil pressure and the check gauge light. but the engine is still running. Oil was changed 4K ago. fuel filters same. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2003 Excursion 6.0. I didn't post this in the 6.0 section because it may not be just a 6.0 issue. (See what I get) On cold starts, anything under 150 degree water temp reading on the SGII. I get a CHECK GAGE light on accompanied by the check engine light. No codes read on the SGII pending or stored. Just some of the time I get a water in fuel light too. This tends to go out fairly soon after driving. (Even after I just drain the fuel pump it still happens.) other issues that accompany the lights are as follows.
The trans temp does not give a reading to the dash. The oil temp does not give a reading the dash. Both show proper temp on the SGII. When in reverse the back up alarm beeps as if something is behind me. And the auto door locks will not activate after 10 mph. The tach also will not show a reading in the dash. SGII shows the numbers. Now the kicker, this ALL gets resolved the instant the water temp hits 150 degrees. The only lingering issue is the that the tach will surge or drop every now and then. The tow/haul light does not come on when this is going on. I've checked the battery terminals all are clean. Both batteries are brand new.
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Driving my 2003 today seen the "check gages" light on and the trans temp gage pegged on hot. CRAP, tranny time! look at the edge evo and it reads trans temp as -60F ???. Plugged in the torque pro and it reads 8,240F. At that point I figure its PROBABLY not that hot. Let it sit for a while and back to normal. Watch trans temp on torque pro as I drive it and everything is fine till it gets to about 150, then it jumps to 60F, then 30F, the 8240F. The cooler lines and trans pan are both feel normal. Picked up a new temp sender on my way home.
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Boost gauge is pegged and have no turbo don't know if the code has anything to do with the problem or not its a po6a7...
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I am working on my dads 06 F350. He had four dash lights go out, so we changed out the bulbs and put the dash back together. When we hooked the batteries back up all the gauges reset except the the boost gauge. The needle went way past 0 and bounced for about 2 seconds then it just stayed below 0. We have tried to reset it by unhooking the batteries and turning the ign. switch on and off several times. Always go back past 0 and stays there. It does work it just doesn't read correctly. I am pretty sure that the needle did not get turned on the shaft? Is there a way to reset it?
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Was driving back home from shopping tonight and my truck was making a lot of noise when I tried to accelerate. I noticed the boost gauge on the dash was stuck at 35psi but the MiniMaxx showed 0psi.
No engine light so I babied it home which was about 30mins driving and managed to accelerate slowly to avoid the engine rattling. I didn't want to shut it down and restart in case it wouldn't start again for some reason.
When I got home I idled until EGT was <300F like I normally do (it never went over 700F when I was driving home) and then restarted it. The gauges worked fine, MiniMax showed boost and the engine revved freely with no rattling noise. I haven't taken it out for a road test, I'll do that when it's daylight.
Bad sensor somewhere? I would think if the turbo had failed it wouldn't have been fine after a restart.
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I have a 2011 F350 6.7 cclb 4wd dually. 212k ... I have the dtc p0284. The run good at idle and driving. I use it to pull a 40ft enclosed trailer. I have noticed that the boost gauge peaks at the half way mark and slowly drops half way down. I can feel my truck lose power when that happens. I also noticed that it runs alot better at night than the day. I have not modified anything except a s&b cold air intake. I have the #8injector replaced.
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My low fuel light came on tonight. I drove about 2 miles, stopped and shut the truck off. When I restarted it and began to drive off to the fuel station a notice came on that isaid power reduced then a check engine light came on. I was about a mile or less from the fuel station so I filled up. I cycled the key but the engine light is still on. No low power message tho. The power is fine.
I came home and drained the water drain on the filter, didn't see any water but hoped it would solve the problem. I cycled the key a few times and started the truck but the light is still on. My truck is a 2013 f350 6.7 and has 211500 ish miles on it. I bought it a month ago with 18500 miles and haven't had any issue until tonight. My only thought is maybe the fuel filters need changed. I don't know if or when the previous owner changed them.
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I started my '16 6.7 this am and drove it about a mile.
The check engine light came on and at the same time the display said "Reduced Power". I decide to turn around and try to make it back to my shop but shortly after turning around the display said "Low Fuel Pressure" and within a couple of hundred yards it shut down leaving me stranded by the side of the road.....
I called my local dealer who gave me the Ford Cares 800 number. I got a flat bed in about 1.5 hours which I didn't think was too bad considering I live in the country and they brought it to the dealer. The SA said it might be a couple of days before they could look at it as they were pretty busy... What it could be? The engine is stock with 9100 miles on it...
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So last night my check engine light came on so I checked by by turbo and seen this hose not sure where it goes?
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Check engine light is on...not blinking. All fluid levels are good. Mileage is 10,700. No code displayed in engineering mode. Truck seems to be running fine..
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I found out today that the 2012 6.7 that I have purchased used with 30, 500 Miles on it a month ago has been in previously for warranty work. It appears that the previous owner took it in with a check engine light and after diagnostics found that the EGR cooler had "no Flow". Ford replaced the EGR cooler core under warranty before I bought it. (It now has 31, 950 on it). Normally I would think, GREAT, something I don't have to worry about doing. But being new to the diesel world, I was just wondering if this is something I should be concerned with. Anything else I should be keeping an eye on etc.... Also is this abnormal to occur with such low mileage?
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I just replaced my batteries today on my 2011 F250 because of a no start situation. I guess it was about due since they were original and that gives me 5 + years of service and it happened in my driveway so I definitely am not complaining. However after I replaced them and started the truck the check eng lite came on....
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If doing a EGR delete on a early 2004 6.0 will turn on the check engine light? I was going to leave the valve in place and harness connected, I was just looking to add durability to the truck so don't want to use a tuner but also don't want the engine light on, I seen conflicting reports that it may or may not turn on the light!
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I had a bad Glow Plug on my 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel causing the check engine light to go on. I replaced the Glow Plug and cleared the OBD2 error. The check engine light is off now, but I can't pass the smog check because EGR Monitor "Not Ready"
I put 100+ miles city/freeway miles on the truck, but I still get EGR Monitor "Not Ready" Even tried "Drive Cycle" with no luck...
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My check engine light came on today and the code read P1335. What code is that?
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CEL came on.. hooked up my cheap OBD/CAN scanner.. getting code P21B0..googled it and this is what i find: P21B0 - Reductant Level Sensor C Circuit High. What is this for? I've about had it with this truck..this having to replace a sensor every time I take it on a long trip stuff is getting ridiculous..2 EGT's, air charge cooler sensor, blower motor, and now this...
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