Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: First Oil Change - Smoke Form Hole When Dipstick Pulled - Normal?
Oct 28, 2016
Did my first oil change with Rotella T6. I drained, replaced filter, filled with 13 quarts new. Started engine, let it idle about a minute, turned off, checked level and everything was good. Then I drove about 3 or 4 miles just to make sure everything sounded ok, and when I got back home checked level one more time. After driving, the oil level was still fine, no leaks detected anywhere, but there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole when I pulled the dipstick. Is this normal?
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I'm new to the 6.7 so I'm still learning as much as I can. I recently added the exhaust filter screen to the display using forscan. I had a regen yesterday. I drove the truck until the exhaust filter displayed 0% full. I've driven about 130 miles today and noticed the exhaust filter is now 50% full. That seems really quick to fill halfway up in so few miles. Is this normal? If not what would cause it? I'm really entertaining the idea of deleting the rocket ship under the truck.
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I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
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I just bought this 2007 F250 a 126K miles on it. Drove it about 1500 miles with no problems. I changed the coolant to Rotella ELC, installed Sinister Diesel Coolant and Oil Filter Bypass, and changed oil to Rotella 15W-40. 3 days after I did this it was in the mid 30's in the morning when I headed to town. It was blowing white smoke, so I stopped and smelled it. It did not smell sweet. I saw what looked liked diluted oil dripping from the exhaust. As I turned around it stopped. I revved it up and no smoke. I headed back into town(around 10 miles) no smoke. Drove home and no smoke. I was at home for about an hour and when I started the truck it was blowing white smoke.
I revved it up a couple times and it went away. I drove about 125 miles and no smoke. I let the truck sit about an hour and when I started it was blowing white smoke and no matter how much I revved the truck it did not go away. I went to work and the truck sat for 3 weeks. I just installed the blue spring kit. Started the truck and no smoke at first. Then, when it went to fast idle a little wisp of white smoke. As soon as I revved the truck up it got worse. Then it blew out what once again looked like diluted oil about 5 feet out the exhaust( I have a huge tractor weight sprayed with this). My first thought was maybe with the thicker oil I am getting some stiction so I am planning to change the oil to 5W-40 and add Hot Shot Secret tomorrow. But blowing the oil like substance out the exhaust has me concerned.
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Went to do my first oil change last night. Removed the horribly over tightened oil filter with out issue. We to pull the drain plug out of the oil pan and could not get to budge. Got a bigger breaker bar and got it out. Plug came out with about half the threads of the pan stuck in the bolt threads. Bolt must have been tongued to 100+ foot pounds. Got a new oil pan on order with dealer think i will have to cover cost since i was doing my own oil change.
Truck is a 2016 f250 6.7L.....
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So I replaced ball joints and hub bearings on driver side of the truck today ( passenger side tomorrow). Problem is when I pulled the axle out gear oil started to leak from axle housing not a lot but a leak nonetheless. Is this normal or did I break something.
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2003 f350 6.0 diesel, driving on the freeway at 70 mph, all instrumentation went off, the radio went off, the engine was still running fine. While pulling off on the off ramp, when the speed was about 20 mph the rear end jumped up as if the transmission was trying to go into reverse. After traveling about 4 miles at about 15 mph the rear end jumped up about 6 inches and the drive shaft pulled out of the spline and drove itself into the pavement. Why this happened. I have put two new batteries and an alternator in the truck and it has been fine every since, but I am still concerned it may happen again. The truck has a 6 inch lift on it.
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Loss of coolant! I have a 2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles. I put in a new oil cooler and ipr egr delete two years ago also flush the system and added a coolant filter. I filed it back up with the red antifreeze. Now the problem I have never lost any coolant since then and my deltas are about 5 degrees. But the other day I pulled a heavy load the first one since I did the repairs (coolant got up to 220 degrees and would drop back down) when I got home the coolant tank was about a inch low. I let the truck sit about 3 hours and checked it again and it was back at the full mark. Drove it the next day and it's back low about a inch, Any clue what's going on.
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I am in the middle of a several thousand mile road trip, and I am with family in Utah when this evening I noticed a puddle under my 6.0 Excursion.
Coolant leak? - YouTube
The fluid does not smell like typical coolant, but from the location of the drip, I cant think of it being anything else.
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After driving, i smelled something horrible burning. When I get home, I get on my creeper and roll under to look for anything suspicious, and I find this. It is not where the drain plug in the pan is, it's in front of that. I checked the temp when I was driving but it never got high. I really need my transmission to not explode on me right now, I have a lot of driving to do.
Here's a gallery where there are some pictures....
Photo Album - Imgur....
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I was looking for something to cover the four holes in the bed that my fifth wheel hitch fits into. The hole size is 2 inches. What is the diameter of the ford OEM pucks that come with the fifth wheel prep package. By the way I really like my new 18K pull-rite super glide hitch worked great my first trip with new fifth wheel. Pulled about 13000 lb trailer on 1200 mile from central California up to Grants Pass, Oregon and back down the coast. I used 93 gallons and got an average of 12.3 mile per gallon. Truck worked like a charm. No issues.
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I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
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So on my 2007 F250 My transmission dipstick is incredibly loose. I looked in the engine bay and it is not bolted to the block as it should be and I feel like it may not be entirely seated where it should be, if it is at all. There is a whole lot of wiggle room for, but I can't see anything to put it back in place.
I've done some searching and have yet to find a whole lot of anything on how to insert it back into its space from the engine bay, is it even reasonably doable?
Haven't asked a dealer what their price is to fix it, but I'm sure it will be astronomical so I'd rather try to remedy this on my own if possible, though I am currently at school so my access to tools and work space is relatively limited.
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I know checking your oil level is a pretty easy thing but I am having a serious issue right now. I checked my oil and my dipstick has oil on it but it isn't leaving the napkin wet. Like there is oil on the dip stick but it just doesn't seem right. Nothing on the ground were I stopped at before I got home. How long will it run without causing damage?
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I noticed when I shut off the truck about 30-40 minutes later I'll open the degas bottle cap and notice there is no pressure.
I used a coolant pressure tester kit and pumped in 16PSI but couldn't hear or find the leak.
I'm going to buy a smoke machine in a month or two but until then, can I still drive the truck ?
I'm guessing it is a pin hole leak somewhere as once I shut the truck off... there is a lot of coolant pressure.
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My truck is all stock and I am running in performance tune? And my friend the former owner said I need to let her loose about 75 percent of the time I am driving it because it's my DD and I do not tow anything on a regular basis. I do not want to stretch my bolts by unnecessary pushing, I don't know if I'm even pushing it hard but I normally get the turbo up to about 30 psi is that to much?
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I have an early 04, I'm not sure if there's a different in pressure over the years. But I'm curious what normal or average readings are. Btw I did replace the icp and pig tail last year. Here is what I have in psi from my sct
Cold start at idle 680 .23v
Warm idle 635 .24v
Cruising 1800rpms about 1500 .32v
WOT about 4200 .78v
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I wasn't sure if I should be having any sway at all while pulling our new 30' TT. Dry wieght is 7200lbs, GVW is right at 9500lbs, tongue weight is around 800lbs, and I'm running a Fastway E2 WDH with sway control built in. While towing this weekend, I was experiencing a very slight amount of sway. It wasn't what I considered to be much of an issue but my wife and daughter both asked why the truck felt as if it was moving side to side slightly. When I say slightly, imagine a small glass of water filled about 1/4" from the top. The sway wouldn't have been enough to spill the water, but enough to sway it slightly back and forth. Winds were about 3-8mph hitting me from the north west (in relations to my trucks heading).
I do have some suspension enhancements that might have contributed to the sway. I have roughly increased the rear end by 4" by adding add-a-leafs and F350 blocks. I have Fox 2.0 shocks and a Helwig Bigwig sway bar. Plus I'm running 295 Nitto Trail grapplers , all 4 at 80psi. I've read that the more aggressive tires could also be a contributor.
My question ultimately is: should I be feeling any sway at all? Is a very slight amount of sway normal when pulling a 30' 9500lb rear hitch pull?
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It takes about 10 minutes for the truck to drive normal. If I start the truck and sit for 5 minutes, then start driving... the truck has a very hard time changing gears and accelerating. Just trying to see if this is normal or not ?
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Decided to try and swap in LED bulbs into the sub par factory headlights and since some engineer somewhere decided it would be easier for me to have to remove the grill and headlights just to change a bulb, I noticed that the dual horn set up had the horns pointing back to the truck. Even worse, right in front of all the fins on the CAC, Raidator, etc. to reduce muffle the sound.
Now I don't know how things are where you live, but generally when I honk at someone, I'm not doing it so I can hear my own horn. The general idea I thought was so that others could hear my horn.
Of course the same engineers in charge of headlight bulb swaps also figured out the wiring for the horns so you can't just loosen the nuts (10 mm) and rotate said horns 180 degrees. You can rotate the driver side horn 180 degrees and call it good, but the factory wiring won't reach the passenger side horn if you rotate it.
You can however remove both horns and use a small screwdriver to unplug the harness that joins the two horns. If you swap the horns right to left and left to right, then you can put the factory wiring back together in a manner that leaves the horn outlets pointing forward towards others.
I can't insert pics into the thread as I describe things. I used to do that but FTE seems to have gotten rid of my gallery so I can't upload to there anymore and then post photos in the thread that way. So now you get them uploaded as attachments at the end of my rambling.
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Started today. 2004 with 235k miles. Owned for last 10k miles. Engine was recently studded, has egr delete and ccv bypass. Runs and starts fine. New Ford oil cooler too. Checked for codes. None for misfires, perdel are reading 0.
If it sits, on start up clear exhaust, as it warms, more blue smoke. Smells like oil not diesel.
Researched before asking and found leaking turbo seals can cause this. So we pulled the intercooler tube in front of the engine going to the intake expecting to find oil residue. Nice and dry. Was this the correct one to look at?
When we got the truck we had the dealer do a relative compression test and was within limits, it did need 1 injector that we replaced. What would be the next logical place to look?
Couple more points:
- Just changed oil last week, checked today, it was slightly over full.
- Coolant is fresh and has not changed level since we got it.
- Pulled fuel filter to see if any oil, but it was nice and clean.
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