So I've begun to notice an annoying intermittent squeak/screech in my steering column while driving, obviously aggravated by the rough roads we've got down here. I can silence it tho, if I push in/up real hard on the steering wheel, so I'm pretty confident there's some bushing or bearing in the steering column that needs some lube or maybe just outright replacement.
View 7 RepliesSo my 2013 is making a strange noise that seems to be coming from the front end when turning and going over a bump. While riding with the Service Writer, we also felt that the noise could be coming from the rear of the truck. I think it's two seperate issues, he mentioned something about the rear end noise being "body shift". So two questions:
1. What a "clunking noise" would be coming from around the steering column.
2. What the heck is "body shift"?
I have a weird rubbing/squeak noise from what it sounds like the rear. It occurs only after ive been driving for about an hour then it never goes away. Thought it was the pads so I put all new ones on. Maybe a bearing of some sort. I'm totally going nuts over this and cant pinpoint it!
View 14 RepliesWhen I bought my truck it had a ford remote start in it. This has only happened like 2-3 times.. when I remote start right after my truck starts there is this huge screech and obviously it worries me.
View 4 RepliesI have a squeak that developed in the steering column whenever I turn the wheel. It is as if something lacks lubrication. It does it in all steering positions. I guess next step is to open it up and see if I can get closer to the source so I can hit it with WD40.
View 6 Repliesi am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
View 8 RepliesI've had transmission issues with my truck that the dealers can't seem to duplicate. The truck makes a metal on metal screech when downshifting from 5th to 4th and 4th to 3rd on occasion. The two dealers claim they cannot duplicate the issue and there's no CEL so there's nothing they can do. The shifting is also super slow between gears and regularly hangs in 4th until I let off the pedal for a good two or three seconds. All gear changes are slow.
Now the truck is exhibiting a new issue. When coming to a stop, a second after stopping the truck faintly jerks forward. Almost like the torque converter is not fully unlocked.
My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
View 14 RepliesMy new truck has developed a squeak in the front suspension every time you go over little dips and bumps in the road.Which is all the time.
View 3 RepliesNot persistent, but the squeak I had where peeps thought it was the brake warning is back, but not constant.
Seems to happen above 30, and not sure what the other conditions are (maybe hot brakes). but it sounds like only the front right this time.
I've new Rotors and pads. I am on the road right now, been since the 20th and wont be back till the 2nd or 3rd.
2011 Ford F350, 69K miles... Just started, at about 30mph. I am hearing a Chirp from the front, speeds up when I speed up and goes away with brakes or slow below 30.
Friend thinks its the brake warning telling me its time for new. Bugging me. Just started. Never changed brakes.
My 7.3 power steering is acting up. Feels like I am up against a rock. At slow speeds like parking lot maneuvering I struggle to turn wheel. Then all of a sudden I'll get power steering back and wheel will rapidly turn. Freaky.
Brake pressure is fine. They shutter pretty bad even with the new rotors I just put on but they have good pressure. But the steering is intermittent or no power steer.
I saw online to run engine at 2000 rpm and try steering but no change. Still no power steer. There is fluid in reservoir. There is fluid seeping up steering column from steering box. No clue if this is related or unrelated.
How to troubleshoot further. I hate throwing parts at problems before truly diagnosing. Also have pretty aggressive lurching during turns in four wheel drive. It's present on dirt road but worse on pavement. Don't know if this is related or not.
I have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 Ford F350 Super Duty Crew Cab has a squeak in the pillar between the driver and rear door. Or at least that is where it seems to be coming from. It gets better and worse but it's driving me nuts. Any potential fixes?
View 14 RepliesOk I have an early 2004 F250. Recently changed out the #8 injector and then had to replace the ICP Sensor. Was running great then while driving down the road just died all of a sudden. Would start right back up with no issues. Continue driving and I am getting intermittent power loss. Also noticed that when it would lose power suddenly the glow plug light would come on.
Codes are P0102, P0113, P0272, and P1000.
P0102 Mass or Volume flow circuit low input
P0113 Intake Temp circuit High input
These are just soft codes not setting a light off. MAF is plugged in and I will check wiring here later after work but could this be causing my intermittent issues?
I'm having a squeak/rattle type sound coming from my front drivers side wheel (more rattle). It only happens when I go over a quick bump and happens going straight and while turning. 2012 f250. 87k miles. 4x4. I have a two inch block level (southern truck) up front..
View 14 RepliesBeen having an issue every once in a while for the past 3-4 weeks.
Truck will not start when cranking sometimes (has happened 4 different times as of today), then I will stop cranking, and retry and it will fire up.
Of course when I try to replicate the no start, it won't replicate. So from here on out I will make sure my Torque Pro connects to the BAXF before cranking.
I know to look at the HPOP psi number.
I need to know the other parameters to look at during cranking. I am suspecting the STC, dummy plugs, or stand pipes with a leak by or drain down of oil.
I have a 2004 F250 4x4 with 204,000. runs great! But last year, I noticed the A/C would work fine to begin with, but after running down the road a bit, it would cut off and I would have to turn it off, let it "rest" a bit, then it may or may not come back on, now I am a electrician by trade, and I figure it is a bad switch somewhere, but a intermittent problem is heck to find sometimes!!!
I replaced the low pressure switch in the accumulator, then I was thinking the little wiring plug might be bad, so I replaced that but it's still doing it. I was going for the relay next, but I'm not sure which one it is and can't seem to find a wiring diagram for the system. I'm stumped on which way to go. Its full of 134a and will freeze you out--- when it works!!
I was driving to work and got about 15 kms from home and all of a sudden, the engine lost power and I coasted to a stop, with the engine running rough on 3 or 4 cylinders. No engine light on and I have a Scangauge II and all the gauge readings looked ok. the fuel pressure was 42, but the glycerine in the gauge froze solid in the winter and I didn't think it was right. I stopped the engine and looked for obvious problems like a failed o-ring on the fuel filter, any leaks and found none. tried the engine again and it ran perfect again, drove the remaining 40 kms to work with no problem. It happened again on the way home, no engine light, again, stopped on the side of the road, it would not restart, check the SG for codes and there was none. Then it started again and I drove home fine again.
I picked up a new gauge for the dash I had added, and checked the pressure, it was 48 and steady with the engine running, but I then changed the fuel filters and installed the blue spring kit to the filter housing I was waiting for warmer weather to install. Drove it to work again the next week, it ran perfect, fuel pressure steady at 60. Then I used it yesterday and it lost power again. I could not get it to run properly for quite a few attempted starts, the it was fine again and I drove it home.
I idled it and checked for codes again, none. ICP was 740, FMP was 54, SYC 1, Fuel Pressure 60. While it was idling, it did it again, idle slowed down and all the previous reading stayed the same, fuel delivery did go up though.
Previous work done. (Current Kms = 390000) 180000 kms, new injectors, turbo, EGR cooler, (EGR blocked off as well), ICP sensor and regulator, in dash Fuel Pressure and ICP gauges installed. FICM sent to Swampy's after alternator died and took out FICM and upgraded to 54v.
The SG when I try to clear the codes it says "Not Responding" with the key on or off, so I don't think it will read or clear them. Where to start? I am thinking wiring somewhere...
Well today I got an intermittent battery light so I got the batteries tested and they were both good and then the alternator is only pushing 12 volts so I guess I need a new one right? Which know should I get? And how hard is it to get the belt to relieve tension...
View 14 RepliesMy IPR value on torque pro koeo is at 14.7. Is that normal? Usually idles around 23.7-24 but when I experience a slight rough idle IPR will be 26-27. When I was under the truck last week I did see there's been oil leaking somewhere seems leaving evidence on the drivers side rear of bellhousing. Any relation?
View 14 Replies