I was draining my separator and noticed some oil accumulating on the bottom of the cylinder head right under the oil fill on the drivers side. My truck is 12 days out of engine warranty.
It's last service was probably around a year ago when the engine was torn down to replace the exhaust valves per the TSB.
I've been having transmission fluid leak from my truck for a while now. Very slow leak. At first I thought it was a hard line and replaced it but it was still leaking. Then I think I found where it was coming from. It looks to be fluid dripping on the bottom of both sides of my intercooler? On both identical spots. I am guessing perhaps I had a crack on my transmission oil cooler and driving blew it into the fins of my intercooler. I took my old one off and couldn't visibly see one. I have a brand new trans cooler installed now. Haven't drove yet as I am waiting on brake parts? I couldn't think of anything else on why it would leak off the intercooler?
View 6 Replies2007 F350... I noticed I have a small power steering leak where the master cylinder bolts onto the hydroboost. Is there a o-ring or seal between the two? or do I have to replace the hydroboost? Been looking online for a schematic but can't seem to find one.
View 13 Replies2005 PSD 6.0L Excursion ... I suspect that have a fuel leak at the fuel line fittings near the driver side cylinder head. (I believe that it is fuel, since it is so clear, I guess I should collect a few drops and see if it burns vs. coolant.)
It appears to be at the junction of the fuel lines. This is the point where the fluid drops off the tubing and falls down. The clip that holds the two tubes together at the joint is very dirty, the one below them is clean. The tag on the line that is at the joint leaking is part number 3c34-9j338-ag. Is there a o-ring in side the joint? Do I need to replace both hoses of the joint? I can't find any posting of a history of this fuel line leaking.
Or... is it that the joint never fail, and the leak is up tube? I can't see any where it is coming out when viewing it from the top.
Keywords: Diesel fuel, tank capacity, 26 gallons, fuel tank, capacity, false advertisement.
On my 2012 F250 with 19k miles I have NEVER been able to fill tank with more than 22.4 gallons of diesel fuel. That was the day I ran out of diesel going to fill up thinking I had 26 gallons. Once the light comes on I'm filling up, I have every tank fill DOCUMENTED with (date/cost/gals/trip/$per gal).
Talked to local dealer Raleigh, NC , their explanation was fuel pickup was raised to prevent contaminates from getting into injectors. They advertise 26 gallons, should be able to access 26 gallons.
What it is or why there is a three inch pull handle hanging down on the bottom of the Diesel Tank on my niece new 2012 F350??? It is sitting hanging there begging to be snagged and ripped off the bottom of the tank!!!!! I'm at least going to Gorilla Tape it up to the bottom of the Tank.
View 10 RepliesHave another oil leak, just finished the pan flange gasket last weekend, made it 150 miles, now a new leak.
Took the spider out and everything on top, cleaned the valley up good, the fired the truck. HPO lines are good, but have a drip off the back and bottom of the HPOP, when I reach under it from the back, its right below the large 2 inch circle.
What this might be? was thinking possible orings somewhere under there where it seats, but its been 6 years since I replaced all the orings, don't remember exact layouts.
Just got it a couple weeks ago from auction. 2005 CCSB Lariat FX4 automatic. I have been running through the truck and replacing every filter and anything that needs replacing. Most filters on the truck were wix, everything now is back to OEM.
The truck had the infamous check TFT and flashing overdrive on the dash and wouldn't shift over 3rd gear. I changed the transmission fluid a couple weeks back when I went to sort out a TFT flashing overdrive problem. The fluid that came out of the truck was new fluid and so was the TFT sensor so my assumption is someone had tried to fix the transmission problem by changing the TFT sensor but in reality one of the harness connector pins was bent all the way over (the pin that went to the TFT of all pins). Easy fix but I still replaced the TFT and the complete harness since I was that far in the transmission before I found the broken pin. New harness, trans fluid, and TFT sensor. But I stole the truck from auction because everyone thought it had major transmission problems. easy enough fix in the drive way.
Today I went to replace the transmission filter after receiving it from diesel filters online and finding my 22mm socket. The filter change was easy and strait forward. The filter itself looked pretty bad and there was about 2-3 oz of this white gunk in the bottom of the metal canister. What it is? Is it going to be a problem?
2006 F350 4X4 .. How in the heck do you get to it? I have that massive heat shield in the way and can't get a shot at even those bolts? One bolt left to get out then I can start going back together.
View 10 RepliesI currently have the rear axle shafts off the truck. I took off, cleaned then put on the rear diff cover.
I live in an area that does nothing but form rust anywhere and everywhere in very little time.
I don't want rust forming in the rear diff gears - can I fill the rear diff up ? Or will it leak out of the rear shaft holes ? Can I fill it up halfway then ?
I have an oil leak where the HPOP hose attaches to the cylinder head. I have the removal tool for the hose. I assume I need a new fitting. What's the torque spec for this fitting, and any additional tips I need for doing this repair?
View 11 RepliesMy 2011 6.7 suddenly lost power, started making noise and then stalled out.
After finding out that there are zero 24 hour service companies available in the LA area, I was able to get it towed to the local Ford dealer.the next day they told me it had dropped the #5 cylinder and that they would have to tear into it to find out what happened.
While I realize that any thoughts on the situation would be primarily idle speculation, what would cause this to happen at only 125,000 miles.
Well, coming home from work Friday and my truck turned on the check engine light. I did not notice any loss of power or other driveability issues. When I got home I pulled the DTC's. I got P0264, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0611, and U0306. The first four being low voltages. The Second FICM. And the last cylinder 6 misfire.
I sent a message to Ed at FICM Repair asking if there was anything to check before I pulled the beast. He said no it needed service no matter what at this point. BUT, I needed to test batteries and alternator. So I spent some time today pulling off my FICM.
I went ahead and pulled the EBP sensor and tube off from the exhaust manifold. The manifold end was very clean. BUT, the sensor end had a noticeable restriction. I would guess a 40% restriction. I cleaned the tube and the sensor and put it back on.
Next I moved to the EGR. I pulled it off and it was dirty but not what I would call restricted. The valve moved freely. I cleaned it anyway and blew out the manifold before I reinstalled it.
I have the batteries on a charger right now. Once they each charge for 12 hours each I will let them sit a day or two before I load test them. They are about four years old, AC Delco 60 month 875CCA batteries. I have had problems the last 6-8 months with staring the truck. If she sits for more than 3-4 weeks without being run she turns over slow and won't start. So I have had to jump start her a few times. And before you ask I have done a parasitic check and only have .05amp draw. So maybe the alternator is getting weak.
On that note I pulled the alternator and will get it bench tested this week. While I was there I noticed the top grooved and smooth idler pullies were a little "wobbly" so I yanked them too and will replace. Might as well do the belt while I'm at it. Boy this is going to get expensive real fast.
So, I decided to go ahead and replace the bottom coolant recovery hose and the long hose/pipe heater hose too. Boy it never ends. Oh well. I would rather do it now while I have stuff pulled off and it is easier to get to. Ordered those parts from RockAuto to the tune of 219 dollars. OUCH!!!
I accidentally broke my new engine oil dipstick while I was trying to get to the FICM!!!! CRAP!!!! More money. So......... Is there anything else I might want to look at while I am there?
The truck is 2006 F250 6.0 PSD CC SB 4x4 mid optioned XLT with 108,000+ miles. I have a 4" turbo back exhaust, AFE Cold Air Intake, Blue Spring, Hypertec Power Program 3 on the lowest setting, and an after market intake elbow at the intake manifold and an engine oil bypass filter. Turbo was pulled and de-coked about 18,000 miles back. Otherwise no issues. The 90,000 mile service was done about 10,000 miles ago. She gets regular services.
How about methanol injection? Will that keep the intake clean from the EGR sludge? I'm not thinking about added power, just keeping things cleaner? I plan to do the Atlas 40 when the FICM gets repaired.
I have a 06 f250 with 135k that I keep getting a #2 contribution code. Power balance shows cylinder 2 low as well. No circuit codes and everything sounds good on a buzz test. Valvetrain is actuating as expected. I changed all 8 injectors w/ motorcraft with no luck. I get over 300 psi on a compression test ( 175 psi on 1st stroke then maxed my gauge on the 2nd). It smokes until I disable cylinder 2 then it pretty much clears up. I did notice I could move the top of the valve stems about 1/16", this seems really sloppy. Very little blow by and the oil cap stays on up side down until it rattles off. Any other 8 deal other than pulling the heads? I just bought this truck and have little history on it.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 with a powerstroke 6.0. I have done the egt delete and oil cooler upgrade. Last weekend I did head gaskets, arp studs, new heads, injector o rings, updated stand pipes and dummy plugs, glow plugs, glow plug harnesses, water pump, and exhaust gaskets. After everything was done and truck was primed and started it ran really rough. I drove it a little to possibly purge any air and it still ran rough and I got a code p0275 for cylinder 5 contribution. I removed valve cover and oil rail and swapped injector 3 and 5. 5 was covered in fuel. After reinstalling oil rail I cranked engine over and saw cylinder 5 intake valves were not moving. Removed rail and rockers. Pulled push rod and it was bent. Installed new push rod a and reassembled. Crank engine over to verify all rockers were moving. Reinstalled valve cover and started truck. Truck ran great. Cleared codes and test drove. After test drive truck sounded like it was missing so I checked the codes again and p0275 was back! I know at this point I need to check the harness but any other possibilies you may know of? FICM voltage it good at 48v and oil pressure reads good as well.
View 7 RepliesI bought an 06 6.0 f 350 4x4 dump bed cheap. seller said it was sitting for 1-2 years and wouldn't start. ficm is at 48 volts fuel pressure is at 100 oil pressure builds fine, then checked compression and reading no compression in any cylinder. My mechanic says new motor or possibly both head gaskets are blown.
View 14 RepliesIm replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release. I know it has to be very simple, I just cannot see how it releases.
View 2 RepliesPulled p0678, glow plug 8. I've changed out the glow plug on cylinder 1 a few years ago.
Cylinder 8, being on the driver side rear, is it difficult to change out? Should I just pay Ford or another shop to fix this?
I would like to know if i am the only one that had that problem... a few weeks ago, I had to stop and get the truck towed to the dealership and they told me that my engine was shot. Then they told me it was a glow plug that fell inside the cylinder... didn't know it was possible but any way it was under warranty.
Last Monday they asked me to bring all my service receipt and that ford is asking them to take the engine apart and study it before they would ship a new engine... Are the trying to get away from paying it under warranty? The truck is 2011 with 80000 km (50000 miles).
Truck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
View 6 RepliesI'm normally in the 7.3 forum, but a friend has a 2003 6.0 with a P2285. I get the impression that on the 03 and early 04 models, this code is nearly always a failed ICP sensor or the wiring leading to it. It also has a cylinder 5 misfire code, but I suspect that's a separate issue. I had the truck hooked up and the ICP held pretty much steady at 870 psi. I didn't look at ICP voltage, but I'm willing to bet it was probably 0v and the pressure reading was inferred and not actual.
Will a failed ICP sensor also cause the truck to have decreased power? Any tips to make the sensor easier to change, like a certain socket/ratchet combination or anything? Is it easier from the top, or bottom? I do have a lift . . .