Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: Missing Coolant / Overheat - No Signs Of Leaks
Aug 12, 2017
I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. The other day I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark (if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year. I also had to refill my degas bottle up to the fill line. Took 2 gallons of Ford VC-3-B Coolant and water mix. After a short run to verify the problem, it took another 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of mix. But, no overheating. No signs of leaks anywhere. Just a strong scent of coolant on shutdown outside the truck. Pressure tested the cap, I don't have a way of testing the system pressure.
Data from Autoenginuity:
Engine Oil temp 195-202 Degrees
Engine Coolant #1: 188.2-199.5 Degrees.
Engine Coolant #2: 125.5-129.9 Degrees.
I have the full CSV file.
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Early 04 but 06 motor, Coolant filter, BPD EGR cooler, Head studs. I did use the search tool, overloaded with EGR cooler leaks and head gasket failure in the results.
Noticed ECT Spiking 217 (EOT 187)as went to post office,10 min run time from a cold start. Checked Degas a bit low, did my business and went home. Got home ECT 223 EOT(221) zero coolant in Degas and notice this mess. as well as puddling up under radiator.
I left the truck running and added some water to the degas hoping I could spot the leak, no love.
On our trucks do we have a weep hole for the water pump? I didn't notice any water or stains around it or the pulley. Nothing around the hoses either... yet.
Once it cools I am going to pull the fan shroud and look for a possible hole in radiator. Are there any other suspect areas?
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I have a 2005 Cadillac CTS with a 2.8 V-6. I have changed the Mobil One oil when ever the oil life has hit 50% since the car was new. I have 122,000 miles on the car now. In just the past few months I have noticed the coolant level going down at a rate of about 1/4 inch ever week with no visible signs of any leaks. I have pressured tested the radiator and the test comes back with no pressure loss. I also am losing about a 1/3 to a 1/2 quart of oil ever week with no signs of any leaks or smoke out of the exhaust pipe. I drive about 600 miles a week. My son is a tech at the local Chevrolet dealer. He has looked over the car and can find no visible cause for the fluid loss.
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How my rings burnt up on one cylinder causing damage to my cylinder wall. My question is this. What could have caused this? I pulled the motor and tore it down. Cylinder wall is chewed up a bit so I was going to have the machine shop sleeve it. Is there another component that I should look at while it's apart? Also the corresponding freeze plug on the same cylinder was showing signs of leaking. I'm thinking that is related to the extreme heat that cylinder experienced.
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How does one pressure test for air leaks??? Truck is a 04/04 F250 with 198K ICP sensor in the valve cover.
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i am recently a new owner of a 2006 6.0 F-350. So like any other used rig, it has its quirks. So the one that is bugging me to s the steering. It has been surging hard while driving. It mostly does this when cold. It feels like it's bouncing back and forth then I have to stop and force it from lock to lock. Once I do this it seems to stop it till the next day. I checked the PS reservoir and it's full. The power steering pump looks like it has a slight leak but doesn't seem to be a major issue. The lines going into the steer box are clean and no leaks...
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OK, until I figure out what to do with the other truck I overheated, I've got another ambulance that needs some work, and I got to have a truck running.
This is the same config - 2006 E450 6.0 dually ambulance with 122K. Starts and runs; I drove it all the way to Houston from Minnesota when I bought it and made several shorter trips since with no problems except the AC compressor leaks freon. Then, I found oil in the degas bottle. A tech said it needs an oil cooler and he says there's some leakage at the rear main seal that's "common with this engine."
Can't recall reading a lot of rear main seal issues here. Is that right? Is oil cooler the obvious diagnosis for oil in the coolant?
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I have had a slight oil leak at the front of the engine for a while, and slight oil leak on the pass rear of the engine, and recently got a decent oil leak in the rear drivers side of the engine. I want to fix all three leaks if I can identify what is wrong.
Leak 1 : Front of the engine. This has been leaking a drop or two of oil every few days for over a year. Slight leak so I didnt worry about it. The leak is dripping from between the crank pulley and the engine. Is it likely the front crank seal is leaking, or maybe something above it?
Leak 2 : Rear of engine pass side. There has been a slight oil leak on this side of the rear engine for about a year too. It leaks about a drop of oil a day. I can see that the oil is all over the starter though.
Leak 3 : This just started and is a decent leak. It is dripping off the exhaust manifold as seen in the picture below and leaks a 6 inch circle of oil on the ground in a week.
Maybe leak 2 and 3 are connected? I tried to get a good look of the engine and without pulling anything off, I couldn't see any oil leaks on the top of the engine. I couldn't see the HPOP cover though because the turbo was in the way.
NOTE: I do park my truck in the driveway every day and our driveway is slanted quite a bit with the nose of the truck much higher than the back.
Here are some pics of the oil leaks:
Under pass side of truck, oil on starter : [URL] ....
Under the Drivers exhaust manifold : [URL] .....
Bottom front of engine, between pulley and engine : [URL] .....
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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Well got home and the front of the truck was covered in coolant. I must have driven 2 hrs after I noticed no coolant pressure, but temperature was great so figured it was another crappy cap. Looking to get a quick turnaround. Need to go out of town for work Saturday so I have this week to get it done.
Just put a stock unit back in? I don't think I need to do anything else in that area. Belt/pulleys/radiator all done last spring.
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This weekend my friend and I plan on doing a coolant flush, new Mishimoto thermostat housing with high temp thermostat and install a Mishimoto coolant filter.
Truck currently has some unknown green coolant in it and Im going to replace it with Rotella ELC. I plan on doing a couple hose water flushes then follow with about 5 distilled water flushes. I've been reading about putting some Cascade in on first flush to dissolve any silicate goo that might be in there hanging out. I might give that a try. Im sure I can manage this part from all the stuff I read about doing flushes.
This is the part that looks like a little more work involved than the flush. Doing the thermostat kind of worries me because of the tight area in there to work with the fuel line and the EBP sensor being right there. The current thermostat holds temps around 175-185 under normal driving. I bought the new Mishimoto thermostat housing with the high temp thermostat installed in it when they had their pre sale going on for the housing.
I decided to just go with the whole thing because of all the stuff I read about people having issues with the thermostat not fitting the older housing correctly since Im certain I have the original housing from 2004, like everything else that's still original on my truck. I plan on removing the thermostat before doing the flushes and then installing the new housing and thermostat and coolant filter before I add the ELC.
The coolant filter install looks fairly simple to do so I should be ok with that.
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Ok, so I have a Viair onboard compressor supplying air to airbags, train horn and fitting in the rear. With all that, I have multiple connections and some leak ever so slightly making the compressor cycle ever few hours. Question: Is there some sealant I can use with push on fittings and connectors to eliminate the leaks?
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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To start off. I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 in it which just had a top end rebuild done on it due to the head gasket blowing on it. During the rebuild the EGR cooler was also deleted, ARP head studs, Heads were milled down to make them flat (shop said they had to take 9 thousands off to do so), new up pipes installed, new back pressure sensor installed due to the plug head snapping off, new glow plugs, new glow plug rail harness, oil rail rebuilt due to bad o-rings on the ball tubes, injectors were installed with all new seals and had polished the spool valves hoping to avoid stiction (however its spelled can never remember), and lastly the EGR was deleted electronically with tuner. Also had to get 2 new batteries as they were stone dead and would not take a charge. And had to get a new alternator due to low output. Not sure if the alternator killed the batteries or the batteries killed the alternator either way it needed replaced to.. Unfortunately after i got that fixed i had to get a new starter as it died 3 days later.
Ever since its gone back together Ive had a consistent intermittent miss with the truck. Ive searched every article i can find but seems most complain about misses when cold. Mine is the exact opposite as it only does it once the engines up to normal operating temp. It accelerates hard and fast like it has no issues. While its cold it doesnt miss at all. Once its warmed up sometimes while cruising it will feel like its missing on every cylinder or better description would be as if your driving on a cobble stone road.. If you mash the pedal for a couple seconds till it kicks down and raises the rpms it stops.. Its most prevalent at idle though.. You can literally hear the difference in the engine when it starts missing. Truck will shake as if its got a large lopey cam. Odd part while sitting at idle it will cycle back and forth between running smooth and missing. But same with at cruise as soon as you get on the throttle it goes away. If its doing it while sitting idle at a light, it will take a couple seconds once your on the throttle for it to smooths out. But always does.
Ive tested the Ficm hot and cold, KOEoff and KOEOn.. getting a steady 48v from the main board.. Scan gauge says the Logic boards reading steady 13v... Also from the scan gauge it says my ICP pressure is in the 640 range at idle (full throttle highest ive seen is 3600psi so dont think its a pressure leak) and volts bounce between .80-.90.. but oddly once it starts missing the ICP pressure jumps up 20 psi.. IPR at idle reads 23.5-25.5.. at cruise its up around 45ish.. fuel pressures said to 70 psi.. which its usually around that most times, cruising itll be around 66psi. I had 3 injectors replaced not this past spring but the year before (ironically same symptoms).. Injectors 5,7,8 were replaced then.. ICP sensor was also replaced at the same time as it split and shorted out the connector which was the initial reason i took it in that time since it was dumping the oil on the ground.
I dont have any way to perform a cylinder contribution test and after spending 6K on a rebuild I really cant afford to take it in to have someone else do it. A local guy was able to scan the truck for me but he couldn't do the contribution test either but was able to buzz test them. Everything passed there but we also found some hidden fault codes my code readers did not find. The ones we found hidden said that injectors 2, 4, and 7(again??) are reading low contribution. Of what I've read 2 & 4 sit on either side of 7 in the firing order so have wondered if they're not pulling down 7's results.
I really cant afford to replace the injectors till near the end of next month. Is there anything else I can look at that might actually possibly be causing false readings or intermittent misses only when warm.
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Truck is bucking and missing every 10 seconds or so and will stall when taking off in drive sometimes but fires right back up? I got a lot of codes in the torque pro app but some are in grey. Not sure what that means. EGR has been deleted so that's why I got those codes. I was cleaning the back of the truck the other day and found a can of quick start . Guess that might be why i got codes for glow plugs also. I'm gonna post up pic of my codes and numbers of truck running at idle in drive. So far I see I got a code for cylinder 6 contribution? It's in grey tho whatever that means.
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I have a 2012 F-250 6.7L w/8K miles. I have been struggling with this issue for 6 mo. The engine feels like its missing at low RPM. I would equate it to the feeling of a bad coil pack in a gas engine. The boost indicator drops to 0 for a split second then recovers. The dealer says they can't find the issue but went ahead and replaced the turbo. After the turbo replacement It got worse. This is an intermittent problem with no codes.
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just overhauled my 6.0. run great for about 3 days now runs really rough when cold. new heads injectors rings pistons ficm fuel pump icp sensor ipr valve fuel pressure is good. Engine rolls smoothly when cold also.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0L. Just had a used motor with 108k miles put in. Had the motor studded, fire ringed, new injectors, new glow plugs, new radiator fluid filter system installed, had egr delete done, ficm board replaced, fuel pump replaced, a few other small items replaced as well. The problem I'm having is the truck runs like it has a miss until it warms up.
After that, it runs fine. It takes about 10/15 miles of driving before it runs like it should. Letting it run in the driveway for 10/15 minutes to warm up doesn't make a difference. When the truck starts, it lopes at an idle for about 5 mins before turbo kicks in & starts whistling. When I start driving it shakes & feels like it has no power until it warms up. Then you'd never know anything was wrong. Put way too much $ into the truck so far and can't keep going.
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I get what I can only describe as a "missing" when Im on the interstate just cruising along with rpms below say around 1900. That seems to be when I have noticed it. It is not very frequent but often enough to not let me forget about it. Happens when I'm towing it seems more than when not. Seems the rpms have to be below 18-1900 and in 5th speed. You can just feel the truck ever so slightly missing like in the old days of points and distributor caps. No tunes
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I have 1 bad injector well it's missing when it's cold and two others that are "weak" I'm wondering what kind of job it would be to do by myself?
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I have a 2003 Excursion with the 6.0 power stroke. I recently had a few codes, cylinder 2, 3, and 8 contribution/balance fault. I asked a buddy of mine, and he said I needed new injectors. I replaced them all, properly torqued everything down, and got it running. She ran for 20 minutes before it started missing again. I shut it down, and since then it hasn't started. That was two Sundays ago. Since then, I've replaced the ficm, all fuses related to the ficm and fuel pump, and even went in and checked all the connectors. Everything is in place, but it still won't run.
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