Why are my tire pressure sensors going off, I have 70#'s in the front and 62#s in the rear, which is more than enough air.
None of the tires have a leak in them, yet I keep getting the sensors to trigger, and why would it be so hard for the system to point out which tire is low??
I had new nitto snows put on my truck and low tire pressure light is on.....Checked tire pressure 65 front and 80 back.....Started truck and screen said tms pressure low.....Hit ok and drove around on and off for 2 days now and cant get the light to go out......Is there some way to get the light out or do I have to go to my dealer to have it reset???
View 14 RepliesI had the low tire pressure message and light come on back when i was visiting california, about 3 weeks ago..i checked the tire pressure, and a couple tires were maybe 5 psi low at the most.. i aired them back up to the right pressure (as stated on the door pillar sticker) and the damned light/message is still coming on.. how do I reset the TPMS? it says in the manual to just drive the truck 20mph+ for about 2 mins after getting the tire pressure correct, and the light/message should turn off. i have done that...
View 14 RepliesOne of the few disappointments I had with my 2011 F350 was it lacked a display of individual tire pressures like both Dodge & GM have. I figured the idiot light would have to do. Recently I found that an inner dual tire was flat. It made a subtle squeal when braking or turning sharply, and a quick inspection showed I picked up a nail.
I never got a tire pressure alarm. I read my manual and it describes the system, but the writeup only indicates setting up four tires. Am I missing something? Have you guys got a working tire pressure monitor on your duallies?
Well, at a little over 10k I have my first issue. My monitor displayed a Tire Pressure Monitor Fault. All tires are OK. Light won't go out. Guess it just earned a trip to the dealer.
View 14 Replies2013 F350 SRW . Pressure is correct . Anything special you need to do to make the light go away ?
View 14 RepliesI do 98% of my driving unloaded and almost never tow. (Kinda weird for an F350 huh) I know that the truck recommends going with 65psi front and 80psi rear but the rear tires seem to not be wearing evenly across the tread pattern. The edges still have the little rubber stubs sticking out of them even after almost 3000 miles. Should I be running a lower tires pressure in the rear when empty or should I just let tire rotations take care of the uneven wear. If I should air down, what pressure would be recommended? The front tires are wearing normally at 65psi and they have more weight on them then the rear.
View 14 RepliesI have a question for 11-15 Superduty, regarding the factory option remote door unlock and remote start. How far away does your system operate from?
Mine is good for only 50 ft or so MAX most of the time it won't work until about 15 ft from the truck. Been trying to get the dealer to look into it, but got told today that in the owners manual it is only good to 30 ft. Plus I randomly get a tire pressure sensor fault. The sensors are fine, but since the TPMS and door unlock/ remote start share the same antenna I think the 2 are related.
Since my 2011 would work from 100 yards most of the time I call B.S. on the 30ft. I feel that the new truck should work at least as good as my old one. Besides that 30ft is a complete waste, and virtually useless, in my opinion.
Looking to get some Neuspeed wheels put on my MK7. Looking for info on moving the sensors to the new wheels or just do without them. Tire places are wanting to charge like 100-150 dollars more just to move them over. If i choose not to use them, will i get an error? Is it even a good idea to not put them on the wheels?
View 5 RepliesNothing mechanical, fuel filter change and coolant check. While its there I am going to have them look at a few things:
1. Back up sensors - they work intermittently with a message that comes up saying "check back up sensors" or something to that affect on the display. The icon on the display that lets you check off or on will not let you put a check mark next to "on" after you push the "OK" button to get out of the check message. There is nothing coating the bumper/sensors (mud or anything).
2. Blinkers - sometimes, out of the blue, my left turn signal comes on and it doesn't like to go off. I have to push the blinker wand down to the second full position then back, or repeat if it comes back on. It is almost always the left blinker. It also happens sometimes when I start the truck.
3. Windshield wipers - sometimes if I go from the remote start to key power in the morning I get the windshield wipers going. So I will turn them on with the dial and back off. This is pretty rare.
4. The Ford emblems are starting to corrode.
5. I might have them look at the cruse control - sometimes I can get the light to come on the dash and go to green when I push the + button, but it doesn't hold the speed. I have to shut the truck off and restart all the electronics for it to start working again.
How to check the back up sensors? My gut tells me with the rest of the issues that unless they can repeat and verify my "complaints" they won't be able to do anything. There probably isn't a code thrown for the blinkers going on at will. Is there anything I might be able to do to fix it? Or do these issues require parts being replaced - which we're back to square 1 with being able to verify what it's doing at the dealer?
I am looking for which model of tire pressure monitor for my 04 VW Touareg. I am looking for the front sensors, I believe they are made by Beru. What is the code and where I can find those (link)?
View 13 RepliesGot 62K on my OEM Michelin LTX-AT2 tires. Very happy with the wear. Going to get them replaced in the next month with the same thing.
Question is, what is the expected life on the TPMS sensor/batteries in the wheels? Should I be replacing those at the same time? I put about 20K miles on per year, so tires last around 3 years. If TPMS is some multiple of 3, then I am ok, otherwise I will replace them when it goes in for new tires.
Any real world experience on battery life?
I have read countless threads and have done research and can't figure out my issue. Had remote start installed in the truck a month ago. The day it was installed sensors were working. I left the shop and went to back in and noticed they didn't work and the light popped when in reverse and sometime it will the random beeping. I did the check and found the inner right sensor was not buzzing. So ordered four from eBay and it still doesn't work. I even switched one of the others out thinking it was the eBay special issue. It didnt work so it's just that sensor. Now what? I have checked the wiring under the truck and it all looks good. What's my next step? Could the remote start have taken just one sensor out?
View 2 RepliesLast week I was driving on the highway and noticed the oil pressure gauge showed no pressure. Limped a half mile to the mother-in-laws and called for a tow. As my truck was pulled onto the flatbed I could see oil all over the bottom of the engine, tranny, rear end, etc. Turned out to be a bad oil pressure sender, which was leaking enough oil to blow the plug off the top of it.
I replaced the sensor, cleaned the engine and under-carriage, checked oil level (which showed no loss of oil) and drove around for a week without an oil pressure gauge while I waited for a new pigtail. Put the pigtail in yesterday and drove it today for the first time since. Gauge was working, got to the bank and it was reading zero pressure again. Limped home and watched the gauge go back up quickly and then back down. This happened twice and was showing pressure when I shut it off. Checked under hood, no oil leaks and plug is still secure.
My truck gave me low fuel pressure and reduced pressure limp mode at 21,000 miles. The fuel and air filters were changed at 16,000. The dealer said all they found was the fuel filters (at 21,000) were what needed to be changed. Also, why does my truck hum??
View 14 RepliesMy work truck that I drive, a 2006 F-150 Lariat 4x4 extended cab, rear parking sensors quit working. The button on the dash is lit up all the time like when you shut it off. I posted this on the F-150 section too and was able to find a suggestion that you can listen to each sensor while in reverse and if you don't hear a clicking at the sensor it has failed. All (4) sensors are clicking away while in reverse so not sure what else to check, no one in the F150 section, so that is why I put it here.
View 3 RepliesWhat is the tire pressure that will trigger the TPMS to activate the warning light on the dash? I had 31psi in my left front and got no warning?
View 4 Repliesno change, changed stand pipe and dummy plug on driver side, no change and guess what? Now I am stuck on the side of the road waiting to give my last $100 to a tow truck! Engine is hydrolocked, fuel pressure is low, starts off at around 20 and works up to 54 with key on engine off, and that is as much as I know from the side of the road with out my AE. Blew white smoke also. Smelled of unburnt diesel. I think it's linked to my rough running issue. Maybe a bad injector? But every time I did the click test they all passed. Idk, I'm gonna remove the glow plugs and see which hole is loaded and with what. . .
View 14 RepliesWell so far I have had this truck for 5 years and I'm going for the third set of tires. So far I have run Nitto terra grapplers, and currently BFG at ko's. Both sets wore out around the 20,000-mile mark, they both wore very evenly, rotated every 6,000 miles, properly inflated, check the lineup at 2 different reputable shops.is it something about the 275-65-20s that make them wear faster? I really don't need an at tire as I don't go off road that much so I'm thinking of a good all season radial.
View 14 Replieshello, so yesterday at the local gas station I was talking to a guy who has a new, nice looking GMC 1 ton 4x4 nondually truck. we started talking about milage and he told me that going up 2 sizes and adjusting it in the onboard computer he was now getting 22mpg.
so I know this isnt an apples to apples kind of thing, and I do know that for example on my F250 it is geared to haul... but has anyone got real data on getting back down to a 3.55 gear adjusting tire size? has it made a difference ? especially if it is just a DD and not a work hauler. yes we all know if you go too far milage gets worse, but I always found for a non-work truck that the 3.2-3.5 rear gear ratio or equivalant eith by changing gears or tire size was a sweet spot for MPG.
right now at 13K I get about 17-17.5 mpg unless I am driving on the interstate and then I get a tad more.
thanks Fert
How do you access the tire air valves on the DRW, the inside tire valve? I can't get my air guage or my compressor air filling connection on the inside tire.
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