Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: 2000 F350 Never Started When Temps Below 25 Unless Plugged In
Jan 24, 2016
My 00 F350 has never started when the temps were below 25 unless it was plugged in. This year is no different, but now it won't start when it's plugged in. It just turned 200K and I know things have to be checked, but I don't like doing them in the winter so I was hoping to make it through this winter and fix things. I needed to use the truck the other day so I plugged it in before I went to bed, It wouldn't start, so I got looking, crawled under the truck and the block around the heater was cold, checked the plug with an ohm meter and it showed that there was an open, so I checked the cord, sure enough there's a splice in it, with a broken wire, so I fix all three splices, check it again and it's still open, under the truck again, and find another splice at the end of the factory wire loom with a broke wire, got them replaced, got a good reading with the meter, and now I'm back in business, Plugged it in for a couple of hours, hit the key and it fired like it was new. Well not that good but it did start.
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While headed back to town my 2000 f350 7.3 with 444,650 miles (I'm original owner) and have performed maintenance and repairs since mile 3. Truck started to loose power and eventually stalled, was able to restart several times to limp home 7 miles in one hell of a snow storm. Very confused, replaced cam position sensor ( keep one in jockey box ) replaced fuel filter truck starts then stalls out. Don't know if a bad HPOP would allow start up at all. Fuel pump???
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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OK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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Little background- this is my first winter in a diesel truck. When I purchased it- it had 4 glow plug codes. Everyone around me just told me to plug it in and fix it later, that if I plugged it in, glow plugs don't matter much.
Had hard starts all last week with temps down to -20, turns out my block heater wasn't turning on due to a bad cord. Replaced cord end today. Let the oil temp get up to around 60F according to torque pro.
Still had a long crank despite warmer oil (15ish outside). Batteries dip to around 10V when plugs are on, then cranks at around 11V. Lots of white smoke which I know is normal.
I still had to fight with it a little bit to get it to start, as soon as she was actually going- runs flawlessly, no lope, no smoke. Runs and drives flawlessly. If I turn it off, she fires right back up instantly every time without hesitation, until she cools off again.
From what I'm seeing I'm thinking my batteries are fine, and my starter is probably fine. Are glow plugs making this big of a difference even though the truck is plugged in?
Truck has 0 codes when warm, 0 blow by, drives fantastic, Just under 300k miles. The only thing I'm thinking of is the glow plugs need swapped. I have a set of ZD11s sitting in the truck waiting for a warm day.
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My 2001 7.3L Diesel has 222,000 miles on it. Yesterday I shut it off at a drive through window, went to start it and it just cranked, no start. The engine light and the wait to start light did not come on. I plugged in a code reader this morning and when I turned the key I heard a buzz and a click, I noticed the engine light and the wait to start light came on. I cranked it over and it started right up, when I unplugged the code reader, it died. Plug it back in and it runs, dies every time I unplug it.
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I have a 2000 f350 manual transmission with electronic shift transfer case and my 4x4 won't kick on I've put it up on a lift and tried again but the front driveshaft won't spin and the light on my dash for the 4x4 won't work I'm also throwing 4 transfer case codes....
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I need a wiring diagram for my 2000 F-350 power mirrors also to go along with the power window schematics that I posted before.
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I just replaced the glow plugs, gpr, valve cover gasket and harness. When cooled down, cranks but won't fire. Smoke DOES come out the tailpipe. If I plug it in for awhile it fires right up. What else can I do or check?
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When the block is cold my truck will not start. If i keep the block heater plugged in it will crank but is still a long start. I have tried just about everything i can think of and it is way too much to list so i will give as much info as i can.
New- gpr, glow plugs, HPOP, batteries, starter, fuses, valve cover harness/ injector and glow plug wiring, vacuum lines. I have checked out just about everything remotely possible.
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so i was driving along & my 2000 f250 7.3 started to chug then died. I pulled over & it started right back up. I did some running around & was on my way home & it did it again only this time it would barely idle (same chugging). It died again & now it wont start. Turns over strong.....
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I have a 2000 F350 4x4 CC 7.3L 323,000 miles auto trans. I have removed my tuner just to make sure that it was not the issue. The truck will run fine then all of a sudden the idle will rise then fall or shudder or go up and down and sometimes it will just Die but it always restarts. No trouble lights at all. I am not sure what is causing the issue?
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 ... A couple weeks ago I noticed that it was taking longer to start then it should be. Now I have to cycle the key switch 3 or 4 time to get it to start. There is a clicking coming from the relay block under the radio. Sometimes the truck will start sometimes it has to be rolled off. I have recently replace the starter and alternator. I have had the batteries tested and they are good. I replaced the two small relays in the block under the radio, one is for the fuel pump and the other I understand is for the door locks? I also read on here the large blue one is for the turn signal so I have not changed that one. After all this I still have the same problems.
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2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
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I recently purchased a 2000 7.3, when it's started cold it's lopes at start up unless I give it some gas and then it's perfectly fine. If the truck is plugged into the engine block heater it starts normal. I changed the oil the day after I bought it and put 15w-40 in it and then the rough idle started. So I don't know if it was like this before or because of the thicker oil I put into in the cold. It also has a service engine soon light on and the code that comes up when read is to the icp sensor. When looking st the sensor the blue wire going to it looks cut and is disconnected. How would I reconnect these wires and see if that makes the check engine light go off.
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2000 f-350 cc srw 4x4 lb. Added a 4inch diamond eye and sct programmer 2 years ago. When I bought it 4 years ago no oil leaks. Last year had a small leak 1 qt every 3000mi. Went camping tuesday when we got there 1 Gallon low and a camper covered in oil. On the way home used 2 more gallons and topped it off with another gallon before parking. Checked the dip stick tube connection no luck.
Cleaned top off with simple green and garden hose finding the drain hole in the back clogged and valley full of oil. Got the front half clean and checked for leaks and found none front valley is still clean.
Had the wife run it up to 2000 rpm for a minute when she let off the throttle and when it slowed got a 3 second stream of oil from the cover at the back of the oil pan. CEL came on code 1280 found oil in the ICP plug ( will order that with orings and tool for hpop for preventative). Removed the air crossover to the turbo and still oil in the back half cleaned it all out and drying now.
Checked the plugs at the back of the engine and they are clean. Where should I look for the leak to be at?
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I have a 2000 F350 super duty 7.3 turbo diesel. It has 189 000 kms or about 150 000 miles. I have had problems all winter with my engine. I can drive it for days and then without warning she quits. She will not start right away but sometimes, if I drain the fuel filter and try her she fires right up and runs for about 10 minutes then quits again. If I wait a few hours, while waiting for a tow truck, she may start and again run for days but she may not...
I have a good friend who is a mechanic, and a cracker jack at it, but he is dumfounded as to what the problem is. She does not show any codes and my buddy has a computer analyser.
So far he has done what others have suggested including changing, Crank Sensor, IPR sensor, ICP sensor, new Lift pump, Fuel pressure regulator, and removed emptied and cleaned the fuel tank and suction lines.
All this to no success. Now we have run out of thoughts. All week I drove her without problem till yesterday when she quit again. There is no set time, weather condition or anything to suggest a problem so I reach out for a solution. The truck is in mint condition and very, very, far from being condemned but this is frustrating.
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Just a heads up when it comes to this code. Today at work I was working on a 2000 f350 that the driver neglected on telling me he had a CEL on and truck was kind of sluggish (drivers are idiots they cant tell the difference) but no miss or any sign of problem except the CEL (he had electrical tape on the cluster. Well I put my AE to see the vitals and immediately code p1316, so I went to do a buzz test revealing that cylinder 1,3,5,7,6 were short to open circuit (forgot the codes) but they all sounded healthy. My next step since it was a quick and easy to do was to check the passenger side uvch to see for burnt pins and what not but everything checked out.
Checked the driver side #6 cyl for the same problem bit a no go. I ohm tested the injectors all of them checked out, wires all the way to the idm checked out so at this point I was in my atemp to see what the hell was going on I decided to install my obs idm on, and guess what happened next it worked immediately the sel did not come up and when I test drove it, my god it felt like a new truck.
Just a side note the idm, had no sign of water damage, and like mentioned to the untrained person most would not tell the difference on how it ran. To anybody that has checked and can't find the problem make sure you really and I mean really check your IDM really good.
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Where the fuel pump is located on a 2000 F-350 7.3L Diesel? Also, how complex is replacing this?
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Am looking into buying a new transfer case (TC), and one web-site indicated there were 2 different automatic transmissions; Manual vs electronic -shift? So some TC's for 2000 AT's would not work? I found one (used) that was from a 2002.
My truck came to a grinding halt yesterday and I believe the TC. I had been hearing noise for a while and had been in the process of eliminating other causes (u-joints, ball joints) and think it was the TC all along.
I did not notice any issues with the AT prior.
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